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September 11, 2017, 11:37 PM | #1 |
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Redding die set for .30 Carbine
I decided to add an extra .30 Carbine die set to my bench. That's after my RCBS re-sizing broke, the pin snapped for some reason unbeknownst to me.
It appears that only Lee and RCBS offer carbide re-sizing dies for the .30 Carbine. So I thought about a Redding die set. But I'm leary steel v. carbide re-sizing dies. Having to lube each and every case sounds painful. Is there ANY reason to prefer steel to carbide? Is there any method less problematic that lube pads? Is it true that if you fail to lube a case, it can easily get lodged in the die, almost impossible to extract? |
September 12, 2017, 12:38 AM | #2 | |
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I did notice this on Dillon's website (for the .30 Carbine):
Quote:
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September 12, 2017, 01:02 AM | #3 |
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Carbide dies are great. No lube required... On the other hand RCBS has the best guaranty in the business. Call them and they'll replace the broken part...
Tony |
September 12, 2017, 01:03 AM | #4 |
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I have the Lee carbide die and have never lubed the brass. Many people firmly believe the brass need to be lubed regardless. Maybe that's the steel die has its market.
-TL Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk |
September 12, 2017, 01:04 AM | #5 |
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Lube for resizing cases... Lots of folk have lots of opinions on this topic. Here's three threads to peruse.
https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...highlight=lube https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...highlight=lube https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=589567 Getting a case stuck in a die is VERY frustrating. In addition to properly lubing a case having a 'stuck case remover' actually on hand on your reloading bench can prevent this. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/50...k-case-remover |
September 12, 2017, 07:08 AM | #6 |
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Have a 30 carbine carbide die that needs cases lubed. Lee 30 carbine dies may not be as tight, their lever calibers aren't. Am guessing the dimensions on some 30 carbine dies are tight, almost like using a sb die.
The old 30 carbines have a lot looser chamber dimensions than the Ruger Blackhawks. When speaking of certain caliber, it may be very difficult to generalize. Last edited by zeke; September 13, 2017 at 06:09 AM. |
September 12, 2017, 08:27 AM | #7 | |||
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Last edited by dahermit; September 12, 2017 at 08:40 AM. |
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September 13, 2017, 02:01 AM | #8 |
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OBE
Last edited by jski; September 13, 2017 at 02:15 AM. |
September 13, 2017, 02:04 AM | #9 |
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I called RCBS and they're indeed sending a replacement piece.
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September 13, 2017, 10:33 PM | #10 |
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You can purchase a few backup decapping rods and keep them on hand so you don't have down time. I keep a spare for all my RCBS dies. They are fairly inexpensive.
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September 14, 2017, 10:01 AM | #11 |
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The .30carbine is in fact a significantly tapered cartridge. The Dillon die is full length. When a round is crammed into that die, even if it is diamond honed to perfection, the friction will require enormous power to break. You can't use a steel .223 die unlubed or it will stick. It is no different from a full length carbide die.
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September 15, 2017, 01:16 AM | #12 |
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Gotta love RCBS. I don't know of anyone that has had a bad experience with their warranty.
Tony |
September 15, 2017, 03:06 AM | #13 |
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I have Lee carbide die. It is written on the box "no lube required". Looking into the die, there is a carbide insert, 0.75” long, extending from the die mouth to the interior. 30 carbine brass has body length of 1.15", measured from in front of extraction groove to case mouth. The die is not quite "full length" in normal sense, as the insert is shorter than the brass.
The configuration is similar to a carbide die for 40 s&w. No lube is indeed required. Never have used any, and never have had any stuck case. With the carbide insert shorter than the brass, the sized casing cannot possibly have full taper. From the mouth to 0.4” down is straight, then tapered down to the extraction groove. I have seen people swearing up and down claiming lube or stuck. I simply don't get it. -TL Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk |
September 16, 2017, 11:27 AM | #14 |
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Many points.
Chances are RCBS may well send you a couple of pins so you may end up with a spare. I have Redding regular dies for 30 carbine (they always include an extra pin) and do as dahermit says, spray with One Shot. I think I would still do that even with carbide dies. Lube spray is great stuff, too little and you end up with a stuck shell. Too much spray can be a problem with bottle neck cases (dented shoulders) but you should be okay with a 30 carbine. You can feel the difference when using spray so it obviously helps. Just throw them back in your tumbler to clean off the goo and you're good to go. |
September 19, 2017, 08:51 AM | #15 |
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As someone already observed, the .30 M1 Carbine case is tapered, not straight wall. Carbide sizers are worth the money, but you still need SOME lube. My practice is to size a lubed case, then three or four unlubed cases, then another lubed case, and so forth. So far (and I've been doing this for far longer than I'm will to admit) not one stuck case.
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September 19, 2017, 05:55 PM | #16 |
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I also have RCBS dies , the company is great . l had a stuck case once , now if I feel a little resistance ,I lower the ram add a little more lube , makes a big difference. I use the standard die for sizing , Redding competition for seating 308 cal.
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September 20, 2017, 08:18 PM | #17 |
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It’s true you don’t NEED to use lube with a carbide die, but I do simply because it makes for an easier stroke.
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