Pietta 1851 Colt Navy , brass frame Barrel Pins.

slowhanddll · November 13, 2015, 04:15 PM

I am a noob here. I have been searching the threads and google for info on how to replace one of these pins. I see a couple things about if they are loose, but what if it is broken off, with the stub still in the brass frame, slightly recessed in the hole ?
A local gunsmith would not touch it, saying the brass is soft and the bit would wander and damage the frame, and that it is safe to shoot with one pin. I don't think he wanted to bother with it.
ideas ? Just drill slowly and carefully ?
I ordered a new pair of pins from Cimarron two weeks ago and was told they would ship ' soon '.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

thanks

David

Doc Hoy · November 13, 2015, 05:19 PM

In situations like this, photos would be helpful.

Having said that your explanation is good.

You can carefully drill these things out but the emphasis is on carefully

It is surprising that a gunsmith does not feel confident in his ability to take the pin out.

Start with a bit that is much smaller than the pin and gradually work your way up to the largest drill you can use without getting into the brass.

Here is where the care comes in:

1. It is imperative that you keep the first hole in the center of the broken pin. This will be hard to do but you don't want the bit wandering into the brass frame.

2. It is very likely that the first hole will not be perfectly centered which means that a bit that is exactly the same diameter as that of the pin will bite into the frame.

So you need to watch very carefully what you are doing.

What generally happens is that as you move to larger bits, sooner of later the pin will become loose and just come out. Use of some kind of penetrating oil or release agent will hasten things along.

There is one additional thing you should know and that is that the barrel will remain in place even if one of the pins is missing. Not the best situation but not a reason to discard the pistol.

Others on the forum may have a better technique for getting the pin out.

JN01 · November 13, 2015, 05:43 PM

Try one of those powerful rare-earth magnets, maybe it will pull the pin out.

Hawg · November 13, 2015, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Try one of those powerful rare-earth magnets, maybe it will pull the pin out.

Not likely. Drilling is the best option and I'm sure the pin didn't break evenly so you want to choke up on the bit as far as you can to keep it straight.

44 Dave · November 13, 2015, 07:36 PM

I removed these pins on an iron frame '51 with both broken flush.
What I did was drill and tap 2 mm. then turned in a screw with a small piece of (smaller than 2 mm.) under the screw to push the broken pin up.

foolzrushn · November 14, 2015, 01:11 AM

44 Dave--I've read your post several times and am not quite sure I fully comprehend.

I take it that you drilled completely through each of the broken pins...then tapped the drilled hole with a 2mm tap. Then you inserted something through the tapped hole ( like oil or grease?) filling the area behind each pin, which would hydraulically cause the broken pins to be forced back out of the hole, when a 2mm screw was screwed into the tapped hole in each broken pin??

If I understand that somewhat correctly, that is a very clever fix, and better than risking breaking through the steel pin into the brass by drilling if it works.

sIowhand--I have had a broken pin replaced in an 1851 Colt. A friend with a machine shop and drill press was able to drill my broken pin out with a cobalt 3mm metric bit.

My pin was 'stepped' with the barrel side 3mm and the frame side smaller. Mine was a steel frame and fortunately, the frame has a flat side which provided a base for vertically drilling the pin. He drilled the frame side hole out to 3mm, and then was able to use part of the 3mm drill bit to replace the pin.

hartcreek · November 14, 2015, 01:17 AM

Need photos to determine how I would do it. The broken bit might just pop out with proper torch technique.

Doc Hoy · November 14, 2015, 04:14 AM

If you try to drill out the broken pin remnant, it would be helpful if you have a drill press and something like a drill press vise to hold the frame steady.

If you don't have that then a bench vise to hold the frame while you try to drill it out using a hand held drill.

No bench vise? You can carefully clamp the frame to something solid while you use the hand held drill.

Hartcreek's suggestion of a little heat is (IMO) a good one.

PzGren · November 14, 2015, 07:36 AM

I just bought a Pedersoli Plainsman rifle and one of the barrel screws broke off and was stuck inside the brass trigger guard. That is a situation pretty close to yours; steel stuck in brass.

I used a Dremel with a dental drill bit and drilled through the middle of the 4mm screw to relieve the stress and then cut a slot to screw it out. I did that freehand.

In your case, I would drill a hole in the barrel pin at a slight angle, use somme WD40, insert a small steel rod and pull the aligning pin out.

foolzrushn · November 14, 2015, 10:38 AM

Reading back through the suggestions, it finally occurs to me that your brass frame might make it a simpler task than with a steel frame. As hartcreek and Doc point out, heat might just be the easiest way for a fix.

Brass will expand more than steel... http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/th...als-d_859.html ...so if you place your frame in your oven and gradually heat the frame, the frame should release the broken pins.

Gravity might do it if the pins are down, but I think I might also try to incorporate a strong magnet as JN01 suggested. Space the magnet (Harbor Fright?) about 1/4" from the pins by wiring it and the frame to the oven's wire shelf. Position it close to the oven window so that you can see the gap between the magnet and frame. The magnet should pull on the pins as the brass expands. Don't heat any more than is needed and watch through the oven window for the pins to be pulled onto the magnet.

Yellow brass melts at 1710 degrees or so. I don't know about tempering brass. Others might suggest a max temperature.

44 Dave · November 14, 2015, 01:44 PM

I have some photos but have to shrink them before they will post, try to get at it soon.
I used a small piece if something, think it was 1.4 mm., as a "Dutchman" in the 2 mm. hole.

zworld · November 14, 2015, 05:08 PM

I have a question for the OP. Why bother? Not really worth fixing. Not sure why they even sell brass frames. Metal is way too soft to lend itself for taking screws in and out for cleaning or repair. Screws strip so east in brass. Just doesn't make sense to use on a frame.

AKexpat · November 14, 2015, 07:23 PM

Quote:

I am a noob here. I have been searching the threads and google for info on how to replace one of these pins. I see a couple things about if they are loose, but what if it is broken off, with the stub still in the brass frame, slightly recessed in the hole ?

A local gunsmith would not touch it, saying the brass is soft and the bit would wander and damage the frame, and that it is safe to shoot with one pin. I don't think he wanted to bother with it.

Quote:

Ideas ? Just drill slowly and carefully ?

I ordered a new pair of pins from Cimarron two weeks ago and was told they would ship ' soon '.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

thanks

David

I am thankful that I have a machinist neighbor here in the boontoolies that produces parts for Boeing. I ran this across him and he just laughed at the prospect that a one could do this with a bench vise and a hand drill concerning removing the broken steel pin in a brass frame.

My advice: find a gun-friendly machinist who has specialized tools to do the removal. He is getting close to retirement but his home shop has 3-phase power and a myriad of machines. It can be done but, IMO, not with a bench vise and a hand drill, nor even a standard drill press. It may cost a few bucks but it is worth saving the frame. A lot of folks don't like brassers but I think they have their place. My next purchase will be a Pietta Griswold and Gunnison .36 brass frame with a Dragoon style barrel.

Good luck with your repairs.

Jim

44 Dave · November 14, 2015, 09:21 PM

DSCN5427 - Copy (Small).JPG

[ATTACH]100553[/ATTACH
Got the pictures resized.
The 3 mm.stock is what I made the new pins from.

Smokin'Joe · November 15, 2015, 12:55 PM

Good job, Dave.

Hellgate · November 15, 2015, 05:27 PM

An alternative solution would be to drill a third pair of alignment holes and forget about the broken pin. Epoxy or stake in the new pin into the frame and call it good. It'll look dumb but will be functional (like me).

44 Dave · November 15, 2015, 10:10 PM

I believe that Pietta uses a stepped pin but Uberti uses a straight one. I drilled my Pietta for 3 mm. and soldered the pins in with Tix low temp. solder.

Doc Hoy · November 16, 2015, 04:46 AM

....Some from steel frames and some from brass frames. I have a milling machine but in every case I used the drill press and drill press vise.

In every case, once I drilled the small centered hole and moved to a larger bit, the bit caught the remnant of the pin and started to turn the pin in the hole. Some were stuck to the end of the drill and came out when the drill was retracted. Others came out with a scribe by just picking them out.

I have also shot pistols which had only one pin (other one broke) without any problem. Doesn't look pretty when you clean the pistol but I notice no degradation in performance or function.

I understand AKEXPAT's machinist chuckling at the thought of clamping the frame in a vise and using a hand held drill. But if you:

1. Can't find a gunsmith or machinist to help you out
2. Don't have a drill press
3. Feel as though you absolutely have to replace the pin

Your options are reduced to the very undesirable. This is why I said use extreme caution. Or better yet, leave it alone.

As regards heat, you can do a pretty good job of getting the heat where you want it by using a heat gun or in the absence of that perhaps a hair dryer. The elements in my heat gun get to 1200 degrees. I can quickly get a piece of metal so hot I can't even think about touching it. I never had to resort to a hair dryer but they work the same way and the elements get red hot.

45 Dragoon · November 16, 2015, 10:23 AM

I agree, Good job Dave !

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram

slowhanddll · November 16, 2015, 12:34 PM

I appreciate all the suggestions, thanks so much !
I will look closely at the new pins when they arrive. I have a vise and drill, and have access to a drill press ( not sure about a drill press vise ). I will post pix soon.

has anyone used something called JB weld on repairs such as this ?

Again, thank you to all who posted suggestions and tips.

David

Hellgate · November 16, 2015, 11:41 PM

JB or epoxy only to hold the pin in its hole. Careful not to glue the frame to the barrel.

foolzrushn · November 16, 2015, 11:52 PM

A drill press vise is a low profile vise that is fastened (clamped) to the drill press table to hold whatever is being drilled, in position while drilling.

I don't know what you are thinking about using the JB weld for. If you can find a way (drilling or whatever) to get the old pins out, you can just use some locktite thread locker or epoxy or something to hold the new pins in place.

Just go slow if you try it yourself. I do think you should use the drill press. If your frame is moving around and not secured, it will be very difficult to drill the old pins out without damaging the brass frame.

Harbor Freight makes a cheap drill press vise....I bought one for about $16. Check it out on their website. It might be a good investment if the drill press that you have access to, doesn't have one. You won't be able to clamp the brass frame real tight, but it must be held in place. You might use some wood blocks to keep from scarring the frame.

Good Luck

Doc Hoy · November 17, 2015, 05:03 AM

....Who mentioned a bench vise and hand held drill in the first place....

I feel that it is important to repeat my earlier cautions.

This is an operation which demands precision that is hard to achieve without the right tools. A bench vise and hand held drill is far from optimal. You could easily wander into the brass frame without realizing it until it is too late. Know exactly what you are doing and know the possible negative outcomes. Practice your process on a piece of scrap.

I have never found it necessary to use any kind of adhesive, but I have only ever done about four of them.

I always made the pins rather than buying them and they always stayed put with an interference fit.

Captchee · November 17, 2015, 07:47 AM

WOW . I wonder just how we ever built guns without all the modern machining abilities ?
Less we forget , much of it was done with files , hand mills , hand drills , clams and bench vices .
Just saying .

Myself . I believe the gunsmith you took it to just didn’t want to mess with it .

Using a dental drill was mentioned . I would agree with that . You can also get very small , slow speed diamond drills . Harbor freight sells a set . They however are very cheep and if your not careful will snap .
Drill out the center as Doc stated . Then step up in bit size . How big of bit you can go , depends on how centered your first hole is .
The gun smith you took it to should have had small taps down to 1/16 at least .
You can get even smaller taps that are for watch making .
Tap the hole and pull the pin .

slowhanddll · November 18, 2015, 03:08 PM

Hello to all
I was able to get a photo and will post it here. This probably will not generate any new ideas, but may help others later. You can kind of see here that the broken pin is slightly below the brass surface, and it is kind of jagged down in there. I measured the pother pin with my micrometer, it is 3 mm.

I now have access to a drill press and press vise, so I will update soon.

thanks

IMG_0211 (1).JPG

November 13, 2015, 04:15 PM	#1
slowhanddll Junior Member Join Date: November 13, 2015 Posts: 3	Pietta 1851 Colt Navy , brass frame Barrel Pins. I am a noob here. I have been searching the threads and google for info on how to replace one of these pins. I see a couple things about if they are loose, but what if it is broken off, with the stub still in the brass frame, slightly recessed in the hole ? A local gunsmith would not touch it, saying the brass is soft and the bit would wander and damage the frame, and that it is safe to shoot with one pin. I don't think he wanted to bother with it. ideas ? Just drill slowly and carefully ? I ordered a new pair of pins from Cimarron two weeks ago and was told they would ship ' soon '. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks David Last edited by slowhanddll; November 13, 2015 at 04:15 PM. Reason: Topic

November 13, 2015, 05:19 PM	#2
Doc Hoy Senior Member Join Date: October 24, 2008 Location: Naples, Fl Posts: 5,440	Slowhand In situations like this, photos would be helpful. Having said that your explanation is good. You can carefully drill these things out but the emphasis is on carefully It is surprising that a gunsmith does not feel confident in his ability to take the pin out. Start with a bit that is much smaller than the pin and gradually work your way up to the largest drill you can use without getting into the brass. Here is where the care comes in: 1. It is imperative that you keep the first hole in the center of the broken pin. This will be hard to do but you don't want the bit wandering into the brass frame. 2. It is very likely that the first hole will not be perfectly centered which means that a bit that is exactly the same diameter as that of the pin will bite into the frame. So you need to watch very carefully what you are doing. What generally happens is that as you move to larger bits, sooner of later the pin will become loose and just come out. Use of some kind of penetrating oil or release agent will hasten things along. There is one additional thing you should know and that is that the barrel will remain in place even if one of the pins is missing. Not the best situation but not a reason to discard the pistol. Others on the forum may have a better technique for getting the pin out. __________________ Seek truth. Relax. Take a breath.

November 14, 2015, 01:11 AM	#6
foolzrushn Senior Member Join Date: April 29, 2015 Location: middle of the Santa Fe Trail Posts: 396	44 Dave--I've read your post several times and am not quite sure I fully comprehend. I take it that you drilled completely through each of the broken pins...then tapped the drilled hole with a 2mm tap. Then you inserted something through the tapped hole ( like oil or grease?) filling the area behind each pin, which would hydraulically cause the broken pins to be forced back out of the hole, when a 2mm screw was screwed into the tapped hole in each broken pin?? If I understand that somewhat correctly, that is a very clever fix, and better than risking breaking through the steel pin into the brass by drilling if it works. sIowhand--I have had a broken pin replaced in an 1851 Colt. A friend with a machine shop and drill press was able to drill my broken pin out with a cobalt 3mm metric bit. My pin was 'stepped' with the barrel side 3mm and the frame side smaller. Mine was a steel frame and fortunately, the frame has a flat side which provided a base for vertically drilling the pin. He drilled the frame side hole out to 3mm, and then was able to use part of the 3mm drill bit to replace the pin. __________________ If you feel that you're pretty important...you should think about your significance to the Universe....and re-evaluate ! certified 'soap welder'

November 14, 2015, 04:14 AM	#8
Doc Hoy Senior Member Join Date: October 24, 2008 Location: Naples, Fl Posts: 5,440	I failed to mention... If you try to drill out the broken pin remnant, it would be helpful if you have a drill press and something like a drill press vise to hold the frame steady. If you don't have that then a bench vise to hold the frame while you try to drill it out using a hand held drill. No bench vise? You can carefully clamp the frame to something solid while you use the hand held drill. Hartcreek's suggestion of a little heat is (IMO) a good one. __________________ Seek truth. Relax. Take a breath.

November 14, 2015, 10:38 AM	#10
foolzrushn Senior Member Join Date: April 29, 2015 Location: middle of the Santa Fe Trail Posts: 396	slowhand Reading back through the suggestions, it finally occurs to me that your brass frame might make it a simpler task than with a steel frame. As hartcreek and Doc point out, heat might just be the easiest way for a fix. Brass will expand more than steel... http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/th...als-d_859.html ...so if you place your frame in your oven and gradually heat the frame, the frame should release the broken pins. Gravity might do it if the pins are down, but I think I might also try to incorporate a strong magnet as JN01 suggested. Space the magnet (Harbor Fright?) about 1/4" from the pins by wiring it and the frame to the oven's wire shelf. Position it close to the oven window so that you can see the gap between the magnet and frame. The magnet should pull on the pins as the brass expands. Don't heat any more than is needed and watch through the oven window for the pins to be pulled onto the magnet. Yellow brass melts at 1710 degrees or so. I don't know about tempering brass. Others might suggest a max temperature. __________________ If you feel that you're pretty important...you should think about your significance to the Universe....and re-evaluate ! certified 'soap welder'

November 13, 2015, 05:43 PM	#3
JN01 Senior Member Join Date: May 16, 2005 Location: E Tennessee Posts: 828	Try one of those powerful rare-earth magnets, maybe it will pull the pin out.

November 13, 2015, 07:36 PM	#5
44 Dave Senior Member Join Date: February 24, 2013 Posts: 584	I removed these pins on an iron frame '51 with both broken flush. What I did was drill and tap 2 mm. then turned in a screw with a small piece of (smaller than 2 mm.) under the screw to push the broken pin up.

November 14, 2015, 01:17 AM	#7
hartcreek Junior member Join Date: April 22, 2014 Location: Washington Posts: 1,549	Need photos to determine how I would do it. The broken bit might just pop out with proper torch technique.

November 14, 2015, 07:36 AM	#9
PzGren Senior Member Join Date: August 14, 2001 Posts: 1,258	I just bought a Pedersoli Plainsman rifle and one of the barrel screws broke off and was stuck inside the brass trigger guard. That is a situation pretty close to yours; steel stuck in brass. I used a Dremel with a dental drill bit and drilled through the middle of the 4mm screw to relieve the stress and then cut a slot to screw it out. I did that freehand. In your case, I would drill a hole in the barrel pin at a slight angle, use somme WD40, insert a small steel rod and pull the aligning pin out.

November 14, 2015, 01:44 PM	#11
44 Dave Senior Member Join Date: February 24, 2013 Posts: 584	I have some photos but have to shrink them before they will post, try to get at it soon. I used a small piece if something, think it was 1.4 mm., as a "Dutchman" in the 2 mm. hole.

November 14, 2015, 05:08 PM	#12
zworld Member Join Date: September 25, 2014 Posts: 48	I have a question for the OP. Why bother? Not really worth fixing. Not sure why they even sell brass frames. Metal is way too soft to lend itself for taking screws in and out for cleaning or repair. Screws strip so east in brass. Just doesn't make sense to use on a frame.

November 15, 2015, 12:55 PM	#15
Smokin'Joe Senior Member Join Date: December 27, 2010 Posts: 211	Good job, Dave.

November 15, 2015, 05:27 PM	#16
Hellgate Senior Member Join Date: November 18, 2010 Location: Orygun Posts: 869	An alternative solution would be to drill a third pair of alignment holes and forget about the broken pin. Epoxy or stake in the new pin into the frame and call it good. It'll look dumb but will be functional (like me). __________________ With over 15 perCUSSIN' revolvers, I've been called the Imelda Marcos of cap & ball. SASS#3302 (Life), SASS Regulator, NRA (Life), Dirty Gamey Bastards #129 Wolverton Mtn. Peacekeepers (WA), former Orygun Cowboy (Ranger, Posse from Hell)

November 15, 2015, 10:10 PM	#17
44 Dave Senior Member Join Date: February 24, 2013 Posts: 584	I believe that Pietta uses a stepped pin but Uberti uses a straight one. I drilled my Pietta for 3 mm. and soldered the pins in with Tix low temp. solder.

November 16, 2015, 04:46 AM	#18
Doc Hoy Senior Member Join Date: October 24, 2008 Location: Naples, Fl Posts: 5,440	I have only had to remove three or four pins in the last five or six years... ....Some from steel frames and some from brass frames. I have a milling machine but in every case I used the drill press and drill press vise. In every case, once I drilled the small centered hole and moved to a larger bit, the bit caught the remnant of the pin and started to turn the pin in the hole. Some were stuck to the end of the drill and came out when the drill was retracted. Others came out with a scribe by just picking them out. I have also shot pistols which had only one pin (other one broke) without any problem. Doesn't look pretty when you clean the pistol but I notice no degradation in performance or function. I understand AKEXPAT's machinist chuckling at the thought of clamping the frame in a vise and using a hand held drill. But if you: 1. Can't find a gunsmith or machinist to help you out 2. Don't have a drill press 3. Feel as though you absolutely have to replace the pin Your options are reduced to the very undesirable. This is why I said use extreme caution. Or better yet, leave it alone. As regards heat, you can do a pretty good job of getting the heat where you want it by using a heat gun or in the absence of that perhaps a hair dryer. The elements in my heat gun get to 1200 degrees. I can quickly get a piece of metal so hot I can't even think about touching it. I never had to resort to a hair dryer but they work the same way and the elements get red hot. __________________ Seek truth. Relax. Take a breath. Last edited by Doc Hoy; November 16, 2015 at 05:29 AM.

November 16, 2015, 10:23 AM	#19
45 Dragoon Senior Member Join Date: June 14, 2013 Posts: 656	I agree, Good job Dave ! Mike www.goonsgunworks.com Follow me on Instagram

November 16, 2015, 12:34 PM	#20
slowhanddll Junior Member Join Date: November 13, 2015 Posts: 3	Thanks I appreciate all the suggestions, thanks so much ! I will look closely at the new pins when they arrive. I have a vise and drill, and have access to a drill press ( not sure about a drill press vise ). I will post pix soon. has anyone used something called JB weld on repairs such as this ? Again, thank you to all who posted suggestions and tips. David

November 16, 2015, 11:41 PM	#21
Hellgate Senior Member Join Date: November 18, 2010 Location: Orygun Posts: 869	JB or epoxy only to hold the pin in its hole. Careful not to glue the frame to the barrel. __________________ With over 15 perCUSSIN' revolvers, I've been called the Imelda Marcos of cap & ball. SASS#3302 (Life), SASS Regulator, NRA (Life), Dirty Gamey Bastards #129 Wolverton Mtn. Peacekeepers (WA), former Orygun Cowboy (Ranger, Posse from Hell)

November 16, 2015, 11:52 PM	#22
foolzrushn Senior Member Join Date: April 29, 2015 Location: middle of the Santa Fe Trail Posts: 396	slowhand A drill press vise is a low profile vise that is fastened (clamped) to the drill press table to hold whatever is being drilled, in position while drilling. I don't know what you are thinking about using the JB weld for. If you can find a way (drilling or whatever) to get the old pins out, you can just use some locktite thread locker or epoxy or something to hold the new pins in place. Just go slow if you try it yourself. I do think you should use the drill press. If your frame is moving around and not secured, it will be very difficult to drill the old pins out without damaging the brass frame. Harbor Freight makes a cheap drill press vise....I bought one for about $16. Check it out on their website. It might be a good investment if the drill press that you have access to, doesn't have one. You won't be able to clamp the brass frame real tight, but it must be held in place. You might use some wood blocks to keep from scarring the frame. Good Luck __________________ If you feel that you're pretty important...you should think about your significance to the Universe....and re-evaluate ! certified 'soap welder'

November 17, 2015, 05:03 AM	#23
Doc Hoy Senior Member Join Date: October 24, 2008 Location: Naples, Fl Posts: 5,440	Since I was the one.... ....Who mentioned a bench vise and hand held drill in the first place.... I feel that it is important to repeat my earlier cautions. This is an operation which demands precision that is hard to achieve without the right tools. A bench vise and hand held drill is far from optimal. You could easily wander into the brass frame without realizing it until it is too late. Know exactly what you are doing and know the possible negative outcomes. Practice your process on a piece of scrap. I have never found it necessary to use any kind of adhesive, but I have only ever done about four of them. I always made the pins rather than buying them and they always stayed put with an interference fit. __________________ Seek truth. Relax. Take a breath.

November 17, 2015, 07:47 AM	#24
Captchee Senior Member Join Date: April 2, 2013 Posts: 439	WOW . I wonder just how we ever built guns without all the modern machining abilities ? Less we forget , much of it was done with files , hand mills , hand drills , clams and bench vices . Just saying . Myself . I believe the gunsmith you took it to just didn’t want to mess with it . Using a dental drill was mentioned . I would agree with that . You can also get very small , slow speed diamond drills . Harbor freight sells a set . They however are very cheep and if your not careful will snap . Drill out the center as Doc stated . Then step up in bit size . How big of bit you can go , depends on how centered your first hole is . The gun smith you took it to should have had small taps down to 1/16 at least . You can get even smaller taps that are for watch making . Tap the hole and pull the pin .

November 18, 2015, 03:08 PM	#25
slowhanddll Junior Member Join Date: November 13, 2015 Posts: 3	photo Hello to all I was able to get a photo and will post it here. This probably will not generate any new ideas, but may help others later. You can kind of see here that the broken pin is slightly below the brass surface, and it is kind of jagged down in there. I measured the pother pin with my micrometer, it is 3 mm. I now have access to a drill press and press vise, so I will update soon. thanks IMG_0211 (1).JPG Last edited by slowhanddll; November 18, 2015 at 04:27 PM.