Lead away cloth on stainless

Noban · August 19, 2002, 10:06 AM

I'm told that the lead away cloth will remove the printed lettering from stainless, such as on the S&W model 60. True?

Also, how is that printing applied to stainless?

Thanks!

Noban

TBAUS · August 19, 2002, 05:08 PM

I don't know, but it sure gets the lead off the forcing cone and cylinder face on my stainless S&W model 66! I don't know how many of these products are out there, but I use Rig's Lead Wipe.

Jim V · August 19, 2002, 05:32 PM

What lettering are you talking about? When I carried a 66, I used Lead Away cloths all the time and never had any of the factory markings removed. They were stamped into the metal. I filled in the markings with Testors metal model paint for a little contrast and the lead removal cloths would ,sometimes, remove the paint.

Noban · August 19, 2002, 05:38 PM

I'm talking about the S&W logo on teh grip frame and the .357 marking on the barrel. I know the lead away cloth will remove bluing - that's why I asked.

Thanks

Noban

Dfariswheel · August 19, 2002, 09:24 PM

I'm not sure what your gun has, but there are two types of markings besides the usual rolled on "stamped" marks.

Some guns have lazer engraved markings, which are "burned" into the metal with a lazer. These will not be damaged by a lead-away cloth.

A second type is applied by electro-etching. These are applied by using a decal and an electro-etching device. The marks are usually heavy blackened letters or logo's. The black may be removed by the lead-away, and since the etching is very shallow, the marks may be difficult to see.

You see this kind of marking process on many steel items from knives to hammers. Look around for something with a marking and try the cloth on it.

Ledbetter · August 20, 2002, 01:41 PM

Try rubbing out the part that says "Smith & Wesson" first.

CWL · August 20, 2002, 04:43 PM

colored lettering inset into etched guns are usually rubbed-in by use of a lacquer pencil. It's like a crayon.

The area is rubbed with the pencil, color fills the etched lettering, proofmark, logo area, and any excess on the outside can be wiped-off with an alcohol pad. The lacquer is supposed to harden and stay, but modern solvents will take it right off. Your lead-away cloth will do so.

For touch-ups, just buy some from Brownells for ~ $2.00,

LAQCUER-STIK stock no#517-100-002

AlonzoMosely · August 20, 2002, 09:52 PM

TBAUS, this may be a dumb question, but what exactly do you do with the lead away cloth to get the lead off the cylinder face and forcing cone? When I use it on the cylinder face, I can get rid of most of it, but not all of it. On the forcing cone, how do you get the patch in there, and in the nooks and crannies where the outside of the forcing cone meets the frame?

**4V50 Gary** · August 20, 2002, 10:16 PM

While Wipeaway doesn't harm stainless steel, apply it to the cylinder face, inside of the topstrap, even the barrel. No need to wipe down the area around the logo or grips. As for the etched areas, it won't hurt it. However, it's not cost effective to use Wipe Away where Hoppe's and a toothbrush will work.

August 19, 2002, 10:06 AM	#1
Noban Senior Member Join Date: December 30, 1999 Posts: 662	Lead away cloth on stainless I'm told that the lead away cloth will remove the printed lettering from stainless, such as on the S&W model 60. True? Also, how is that printing applied to stainless? Thanks! Noban

August 19, 2002, 05:32 PM	#3
Jim V Senior Member Join Date: January 31, 1999 Location: SE Michigan - USA Posts: 4,038	What lettering are you talking about? When I carried a 66, I used Lead Away cloths all the time and never had any of the factory markings removed. They were stamped into the metal. I filled in the markings with Testors metal model paint for a little contrast and the lead removal cloths would ,sometimes, remove the paint. __________________ *MOLON LABE* If it ain't metal, single stack & single action, it ain't a 1911 no matter what it looks like. 1911 Forum THE TUBBY CURMUDGEON

August 20, 2002, 10:16 PM	#9
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,838	While Wipeaway doesn't harm stainless steel, apply it to the cylinder face, inside of the topstrap, even the barrel. No need to wipe down the area around the logo or grips. As for the etched areas, it won't hurt it. However, it's not cost effective to use Wipe Away where Hoppe's and a toothbrush will work. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

August 19, 2002, 05:08 PM	#2
TBAUS Senior Member Join Date: August 15, 2002 Location: Central Texas Posts: 111	I don't know, but it sure gets the lead off the forcing cone and cylinder face on my stainless S&W model 66! I don't know how many of these products are out there, but I use Rig's Lead Wipe.

August 19, 2002, 05:38 PM	#4
Noban Senior Member Join Date: December 30, 1999 Posts: 662	I'm talking about the S&W logo on teh grip frame and the .357 marking on the barrel. I know the lead away cloth will remove bluing - that's why I asked. Thanks Noban

August 19, 2002, 09:24 PM	#5
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	I'm not sure what your gun has, but there are two types of markings besides the usual rolled on "stamped" marks. Some guns have lazer engraved markings, which are "burned" into the metal with a lazer. These will not be damaged by a lead-away cloth. A second type is applied by electro-etching. These are applied by using a decal and an electro-etching device. The marks are usually heavy blackened letters or logo's. The black may be removed by the lead-away, and since the etching is very shallow, the marks may be difficult to see. You see this kind of marking process on many steel items from knives to hammers. Look around for something with a marking and try the cloth on it.

August 20, 2002, 01:41 PM	#6
Ledbetter Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2000 Location: California USA Posts: 4,533	Try rubbing out the part that says "Smith & Wesson" first.

August 20, 2002, 04:43 PM	#7
CWL Senior Member Join Date: May 23, 2001 Location: Bay Area, CA Posts: 1,576	colored lettering inset into etched guns are usually rubbed-in by use of a lacquer pencil. It's like a crayon. The area is rubbed with the pencil, color fills the etched lettering, proofmark, logo area, and any excess on the outside can be wiped-off with an alcohol pad. The lacquer is supposed to harden and stay, but modern solvents will take it right off. Your lead-away cloth will do so. For touch-ups, just buy some from Brownells for ~ $2.00, LAQCUER-STIK stock no#517-100-002

August 20, 2002, 09:52 PM	#8
AlonzoMosely Member Join Date: May 14, 2002 Posts: 31	TBAUS, this may be a dumb question, but what exactly do you do with the lead away cloth to get the lead off the cylinder face and forcing cone? When I use it on the cylinder face, I can get rid of most of it, but not all of it. On the forcing cone, how do you get the patch in there, and in the nooks and crannies where the outside of the forcing cone meets the frame?