Too much pitting?

Carmady · February 16, 2018, 07:50 PM

I think there's some pitting in the charge holes.

Would it be a deal breaker for you?

laytonj1 · February 16, 2018, 08:03 PM

Can’t really tell from the picture but that would be an odd place for pitting to form. Could just be carbon fouling. Anyway, could you run a bore brush thru it?
If it is pitting then I would be examining the barrel bore because it would likely be there too.
Pitting in the barrel / cylinder chambers would be a deal breaker for me.

Jim

FrankenMauser · February 16, 2018, 08:20 PM

The CYA answer is, "it's toast, don't try it."

My own choice would depend upon model, age, and chambering.

James K · February 16, 2018, 08:22 PM

I would worry less about pitting than about what appears to be damage to the cylinder ratchet, the off-center guide pin, and the obvious polish/reblue work on the cylinder itself.

But, as they say, if the price is low enough...

Jim

Hawg · February 16, 2018, 08:42 PM

It wouldn't be a deal breaker even if the bore was pitted but the price would have to be right. I've seen some pretty pitted bores turn out some great groups with lead bullets.

BigJimP · February 16, 2018, 08:48 PM

Yes, but like it was mentioned...I would be more worried about the wear on ratchet and the bluing...bluing looks to me like an amateur coverup....

Carmady · February 16, 2018, 09:22 PM

Thanks a lot everybody, much appreciated. I'll pass on this one. I didn't even notice the reblue. It really stands out in this pic, the cylinder release button (?) looks like they forgot to reblue it.

FrankenMauser · February 17, 2018, 01:00 AM

Bingo!

I'm walking.

ms6852 · February 17, 2018, 01:23 AM

Can not tell from the picture if it is lighting or damage but the ratchet looks damaged.

arquebus357 · February 17, 2018, 06:11 AM

Quote:

I would worry less about pitting than about what appears to be damage to the cylinder ratchet, the off-center guide pin, and the obvious polish/reblue work on the cylinder itself.

The guide pin is off-center because it's a 5 round cylinder.

I would probably buy it, if the price was right. I'm not a collector.

shurshot · February 17, 2018, 07:23 AM

I would soak a patch with Hoppes #9, get those chambers soaking wet and let it sit overnight before vigorously scrubbing it out with an oversized brass brush. That might just be carbon residue.

Onward Allusion · February 17, 2018, 10:37 AM

How much $ was the guy asking?

1MoreFord · February 18, 2018, 09:48 PM

"How much $ was the guy asking?"

This is the question. For the right $ this is a buyable gun. Won't win any beauty contests but you won't be afraid of getting another scratch on it either.

FrankenMauser · February 19, 2018, 05:07 AM

Based on the photos, it appears to have been an auction.
As such, the universal answer to "how much was the guy asking" is...
"too much"....

At a local auction, or in a local transaction... not a problem (cheap). But on the interwebs (sky's the limit), it's trash.

Driftwood Johnson · February 19, 2018, 12:24 PM

Howdy

I was away from my computer for a few days.

Regarding pitting, that photo is not the best, and it is difficult to tell. But it does not look like pitting to me, maybe just a little bit of carbon build up in the chambers. I see lots of shiny metal. Pitting is pitting. Tiny holes in the surface of the metal.

This is pitting, and it is pretty severe. This is the bore of a Merwin Hulbert revolver made in the early 1880s. Of course this revolver is over 130 years old, and it was made in the Black Powder era. For what it's worth, the chambers in this revolver are spotless, they look like it just left the factory, but for some reason the bore was not as well cared for, and has pretty severe pitting for its entire length. But the main point I want to make here is even with severe pitting like this, the gun still puts a good spin on a bullet and it is still quite accurate. Notice how the rifling is still strong, despite all the pitting. I have quite a few antique revolvers and rifles, and in my experience, as long as the rifling is still strong and not worn out, they still put a good spin on a lead bullet and are still quite accurate, even with severe pitting like this.

Regarding a reblue to the gun in question, with the limited view of one photo, I see no evidence of a reblue. Regarding the thumbpiece (cylinder release button) they are often a slightly different color than the frame of the revolver. I have a couple of Smiths from the 1970s in hand right now, not refinished guns, they have the original factory finish, and the flat surfaces of the thumbpiece do not have as high a polish as the frame. Given the right angle and lightning, the thumbpieces tend to look different. Sometimes lighter, sometimes darker, depending on the lighting. Again, just a limited view of one side of the revolver, and the focus is not perfect, but I see no sign of the S&W trademark being washed out by over polishing, and there appears to still be plenty of case colors on the hammer. From what I can see, I see no evidence at all of a reblue.

Which gets me to my final point. I never, ever buy guns off the internet. If I can't pick it up in my own hands, and give it a good inspection under good lighting, I don't even consider buying it.

Regarding overall condition, it depends on the make and the model, as well as how much I want it. If the price is good, and the mechanics all work properly, I am happy to buy a firearm that may have some flaws in the finish.

Consider this Triple Lock that I came across last year. Hardly blue left on it anywhere. Notice how worn the checkering is on the grips. But the mechanism and timing were perfect, as well as the chambers and the bore. And the price estimate was the lowest I have ever seen for a Triple Lock. I made sure this one was going to follow me home when I placed my bid.

If you can handle it in person, you have to make a decision if you want the gun enough to put up with some minor flaws in the metal. As I said, it depends on the make, model, rarity, and the asking price. If you want something perfect, make sure you can handle it before you buy.

arquebus357 · February 20, 2018, 07:35 AM

I bought this puppy...

Carmady · February 20, 2018, 10:29 AM

After shipping and FFL transfer it would exceed $500. I think someone gave it a facelift on the outside, the ol' lipstick on a pig trick. The exterior and interior appear to be from different guns, but they aren't. I'm not curious enough to find out.

February 16, 2018, 08:20 PM	#3
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,424	The CYA answer is, "it's toast, don't try it." My own choice would depend upon model, age, and chambering. __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

February 17, 2018, 01:00 AM	#8
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,424	Bingo! I'm walking. __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

February 17, 2018, 10:37 AM	#12
Onward Allusion Senior Member Join Date: November 17, 2009 Location: Back in a Non-Free State Posts: 3,133	How much $ was the guy asking? __________________ Simple as ABC . . . Always Be Carrying

February 19, 2018, 05:07 AM	#14
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,424	Based on the photos, it appears to have been an auction. As such, the universal answer to "how much was the guy asking" is... "too much".... At a local auction, or in a local transaction... not a problem (cheap). But on the interwebs (sky's the limit), it's trash. __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

February 16, 2018, 08:03 PM	#2
laytonj1 Senior Member Join Date: June 1, 2005 Posts: 4,443	Can’t really tell from the picture but that would be an odd place for pitting to form. Could just be carbon fouling. Anyway, could you run a bore brush thru it? If it is pitting then I would be examining the barrel bore because it would likely be there too. Pitting in the barrel / cylinder chambers would be a deal breaker for me. Jim

February 16, 2018, 08:22 PM	#4
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	I would worry less about pitting than about what appears to be damage to the cylinder ratchet, the off-center guide pin, and the obvious polish/reblue work on the cylinder itself. But, as they say, if the price is low enough... Jim

February 16, 2018, 08:42 PM	#5
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,188	It wouldn't be a deal breaker even if the bore was pitted but the price would have to be right. I've seen some pretty pitted bores turn out some great groups with lead bullets.

February 16, 2018, 08:48 PM	#6
BigJimP Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2005 Posts: 13,195	Yes, but like it was mentioned...I would be more worried about the wear on ratchet and the bluing...bluing looks to me like an amateur coverup....

February 17, 2018, 01:23 AM	#9
ms6852 Senior Member Join Date: April 3, 2010 Location: Texas Posts: 1,394	Can not tell from the picture if it is lighting or damage but the ratchet looks damaged. __________________ ONLY TWO DEFINING FORCES HAVE GIVEN UP THEIR LIVES FOR YOU. ONE IS JESUS CHRIST FOR YOUR SOUL AND THE OTHER IS THE AMERICAN SOLDIER FOR YOUR FREEDOM.

February 17, 2018, 07:23 AM	#11
shurshot Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2006 Posts: 1,819	I would soak a patch with Hoppes #9, get those chambers soaking wet and let it sit overnight before vigorously scrubbing it out with an oversized brass brush. That might just be carbon residue.

February 18, 2018, 09:48 PM	#13
1MoreFord Senior Member Join Date: July 30, 2014 Location: Arkansas Posts: 244	"How much $ was the guy asking?" This is the question. For the right $ this is a buyable gun. Won't win any beauty contests but you won't be afraid of getting another scratch on it either.

February 19, 2018, 12:24 PM	#15
Driftwood Johnson Senior Member Join Date: January 3, 2014 Location: Land of the Pilgrims Posts: 2,033	Howdy I was away from my computer for a few days. Regarding pitting, that photo is not the best, and it is difficult to tell. But it does not look like pitting to me, maybe just a little bit of carbon build up in the chambers. I see lots of shiny metal. Pitting is pitting. Tiny holes in the surface of the metal. This is pitting, and it is pretty severe. This is the bore of a Merwin Hulbert revolver made in the early 1880s. Of course this revolver is over 130 years old, and it was made in the Black Powder era. For what it's worth, the chambers in this revolver are spotless, they look like it just left the factory, but for some reason the bore was not as well cared for, and has pretty severe pitting for its entire length. But the main point I want to make here is even with severe pitting like this, the gun still puts a good spin on a bullet and it is still quite accurate. Notice how the rifling is still strong, despite all the pitting. I have quite a few antique revolvers and rifles, and in my experience, as long as the rifling is still strong and not worn out, they still put a good spin on a lead bullet and are still quite accurate, even with severe pitting like this. Regarding a reblue to the gun in question, with the limited view of one photo, I see no evidence of a reblue. Regarding the thumbpiece (cylinder release button) they are often a slightly different color than the frame of the revolver. I have a couple of Smiths from the 1970s in hand right now, not refinished guns, they have the original factory finish, and the flat surfaces of the thumbpiece do not have as high a polish as the frame. Given the right angle and lightning, the thumbpieces tend to look different. Sometimes lighter, sometimes darker, depending on the lighting. Again, just a limited view of one side of the revolver, and the focus is not perfect, but I see no sign of the S&W trademark being washed out by over polishing, and there appears to still be plenty of case colors on the hammer. From what I can see, I see no evidence at all of a reblue. Which gets me to my final point. I never, ever buy guns off the internet. If I can't pick it up in my own hands, and give it a good inspection under good lighting, I don't even consider buying it. Regarding overall condition, it depends on the make and the model, as well as how much I want it. If the price is good, and the mechanics all work properly, I am happy to buy a firearm that may have some flaws in the finish. Consider this Triple Lock that I came across last year. Hardly blue left on it anywhere. Notice how worn the checkering is on the grips. But the mechanism and timing were perfect, as well as the chambers and the bore. And the price estimate was the lowest I have ever seen for a Triple Lock. I made sure this one was going to follow me home when I placed my bid. If you can handle it in person, you have to make a decision if you want the gun enough to put up with some minor flaws in the metal. As I said, it depends on the make, model, rarity, and the asking price. If you want something perfect, make sure you can handle it before you buy.

February 20, 2018, 07:35 AM	#16
arquebus357 Senior Member Join Date: December 19, 2016 Location: Atlanta, Georgia area Posts: 455	I bought this puppy...

February 20, 2018, 10:29 AM	#17
Carmady Senior Member Join Date: February 26, 2013 Location: on the lam Posts: 1,735	After shipping and FFL transfer it would exceed $500. I think someone gave it a facelift on the outside, the ol' lipstick on a pig trick. The exterior and interior appear to be from different guns, but they aren't. I'm not curious enough to find out.