Garand Competition Loads

[bassfishindoc]

Hey everybody, just got my CMP Garand and am looking into getting into some Garand competition. I handload and just got my 30-06 dies and I need some tips for working up a good competition formula. I don't have the money to buy 20 different kinds of brass, powder, primers, and bullets and try them all in 100's of combination's. I would like to narrow it down to maybe 2-3 brands of each so I can target my purchases and try a more narrow range of combination's and see what work best for me and my rifle. Thanks in advanced for your help!

[Jim Watson]

Not my game, but I would start with some 4895 and 150 gr bullets loaded to M2 service ammo velocity. I would try Hornady or Sierra match and some Hornady FMJ.

[Loader9]

The M72 ammo that was used by the military for match competition was a 173 gr bullet with 50.0grs IMR 4895. No crimp on the brass/bullet. Hodgdon shows that to be roughly 1 gr over max. If you decide to load it, start low and work up. As you might be aware, lot differences of the IMR powders can be wide and adjustments to loading data has to be made for every change of lot number. COL was 3.34 with the military bullet. Otherwise, most Garands shoot a 168 match bullet pretty tight when loading to a velocity of 2750'ps. I'd be looking at BL-C2 powder as my choice. It's a ball military powder and meters like water from a measure. It's also the powder of choice in later years of military ammo and has the correct burn rate to keep that Garand in time. I like LC brass for mine but limit the use to 4 loadings only.

[AlaskaMike]

Mike Venturino wrote in a recent issue of either Handloader or Rifle that he had his best results with something like 48 or 49 grains of Varget and one of the commercial 165 - 168 grain FMJs.

I have a ton of surplus pulled M2 bullets, so I've just been using those with 47 to 48 grains of IMR 4895. While I've had decent success with my M2 bullets, I've read that much better success can be had with good, modern commercial FMJs.

One thing you want to pay attention to is avoiding the possibilities of slam fires. I've had no problems using normal CCI large rifle primers, but the more experienced loaders for the Garand here strongly recommend the CCI #34 mil-spec primers because they have a harder cup.

Good luck,
Mike

[Unclenick]

Loader9,

I expect you got that load data from TM 43-0001-27, which has a number of errors in it, including giving that same powder and charge weight for M72 match that it gives for M2 ball with its lighter 152 grain bullet on page 5-9. It is not correct for M72. Indeed, the military actually loads to a specific velocity and pressure envelope, so the powder charges change with each powder lot, as non-canister bulk powders vary in burning rate more, lot to lot, than the blended canister grades for reloaders do.

I've got some reprint articles from the 80's on match ammunition showing the last lot of M72 ordered made by the DCM used 46.5 grains of IMR 4895. I pulled down quite a number of those rounds at one time (to sub the Sierra 175 grain SMK in), and found that 46.5 grain charge weight number to be about correct. It is not up to the original 2640 fps spec, in my measurements, but was loaded for accuracy and for the guns getting older, which apparently the DCM could do, even if the regular military ammo spec did not allow for it. I've found, in a tight test barrel, that 47.6 grains comes closer to the velocity spec with canister grade IMR 4895, but YMMV, as even the canister grades have some lot variance.

The M72 bullet is spec'd at 173 grains, +/- 1.5 grains, but the lot I measured averaged 174 grains. So did the lot of 175 grain MatchKings I was using, so the substitution was pretty exact except for bullet lengths. The load leaves so much empty space in the case that the length difference is not an issue.

This comes very close, ballistically, to the last lot of M72:

Remington brass
CCI #34 primer
46.5 grains of IMR 4895
Sierra 175 grain MatchKing bullet seated to 3.335" average COL.

With canister grade powder that charge may be a little low, but it's a good starting place and you can work up toward 48 grains looking for an accuracy load if your op-rod is in new or nearly new condition. The Garand action is plenty strong, even above 49 grains. It is the op-rod that is the weak link, and running it overpressure is not a good idea. They are getting more and more expensive to replace.

Lake City brass is better than Remington in terms of durability and rim strength, but since the CMP is out of M2 Ball, I don't know of a reliable current supply. Even Jeff Bartlett is out of it, but maybe someone else will chime in here with a source. But you should also be able to use the cases from the CMP's HXP ammo as another alternative. Remington has the same case water capacity as LC (at least, it did the last time I got any). Winchester is a little bigger, so the loads should be increased by about .6 grains for Winchester brass.

The above M72 recipe is mild in terms of peak pressure (about 43 kpsi). There is some MV extreme spread due to the fact the powder only fills the case about 83%, so it is best to tip the muzzle at least a little bit up and strike the side of the gun with your palm (safety on) to settle the powder mostly over the flash hole just before firing a slow fire round. At 600 yards, M72 MV variance can crate a foot of vertical dispersion, so it matters.

The powder I prefer in the Garand is IMR 4064. It seems to be less temperature sensitive, has greater bulk to better fill the case, and produces lower gas port pressure, so it is gentler on the aging op rods. That lets you run the loads a little faster and closer to the match loads being used 30 years ago when op-rods were in better shape. With that same bullet I use 47.2 grains of IMR 4064 and find it both more accurate, especially at 600 yards, and it reduces the gas port pressure from around 9200 to around 8850 psi. The peak pressure is around 2500 psi higher, but still is modest and in the range of starting loads as compared to what the Garand receiver (which is very strong; it's the op-rod that's the weak link) can handle.

If you run that 4064 recipe, treat it only as a suggestion. Read Dan Newberry's site for a systematic approach to adjusting the load for maximum accuracy within the fewest rounds in your gun. Start 1.2 grains lower and work up to 1.2 grains over in .3 grain steps (27 rounds) using his round robin method. That is still below Hodgdon's maximum load of 49 grains, but watch for pressure signs as a matter of good practice, anyway. Find what is most accurate in your gun. You'll blow through half a box of 100 bullets between break-in, and load development but it will pay off in score.

If you want to shoot 150 grain FMJ for as-issued rifle matches, I recommend you buy the Hornady bullet. It shoots as accurately as the rifle usually can, while Winchester, surplus, and some of the other bulk 150 grain bullets can exhibit outright poor accuracy in the gun. Sierra and Lapua make great FMJ bullets, too, but they cost more than the Hornady and I don't see any accuracy difference in the typical Garand.

That Hornady bullet's COL is determined by its crimp cannelure and is 3.185". Same cases and primer apply, as above. 49.0 grains of IMR 4064 is what I prefer (again, add about .6 grains for Winchester brass). This load runs in the 45,000 kpsi range, and the gas port pressure is about 8300 psi, and op-rod safe. Again, use the Dan Newberry method and +/-1.2 grains in .3 grain steps to find the final load.

Break-in can matter in the Garand. I've seen some really nasty fouling military barrels (owned one) that would visibly deteriorate accuracy before a match course was completed. I recommend the following:

Buy a Dewey Cleaning Rod Guide. $10 from Fulton Armory, or $11 from Sinclair (so whoever's S&H is lower may decide this). make your own if you have a lathe.

Get a plastic or nickel-plated cleaning rod jag.

Get a bore mop.

Get an aluminum or stainless or carbon composition cleaning rod with no brass ferrules or fittings.

Get a .270 caliber bore brush.

Get some Iosso Bore Cleaner or JB Bore Compound.

Buy Boretech Eliminator bore cleaner. This stuff is odorless and non-toxic and eats copper faster than anything else. It has rust inhibitors so it will not corrode a bore if left inside. Nonetheless, it is water-based, so if you accidentally get some corrosive primers it will take the potassium chloride deposits out, so it is ideal for military rifles and especially those shooting surplus ammo.

Optional, but useful is an action protector insert for cleaning, but I haven't seen them for awhile. An orange plastic part when I got mine, you put it in place over the magazine using the bolt as its catch, and it catches wet patches or drips.

The break-in I use now for the Garand is fairly simple. The day before you start, open the action and lock the bolt back and put the gun upside down in a cleaning cradle (this can be improvised by cutting V's into opposite ends of a carboard box, but the simple MTM units are more convenient. Put the rod guide on and the bore mop on the rod. Wet the mop with Eliminator and get the bore sopping wet with it. After 5 minutes, patch it out. If you didn't use brass rod parts and you get blue, you've got copper. In that case, keep running a wet patch every 10 minutes until the blue stops. Afterward, again wet it with the bore mop. This time, leave it overnight.

The next day patch it again. The idea is to soften and remove as much carbon as you can with patches. Run a dry patch. Use your finger and a patch to dry the chamber.

Flip the gun upright. Next, remove the jag and put only the cleaning rod into the bore (still with the bore guide in place). Take the .270 brush and wrap a couple of patches onto it. Smear the Iosso or JB on its surface. Screw the brush into the rod at the chamber end of the gun and pull it into the bore a couple of inches. Back up an inch and go back and forth a couple of times, then slowly start creeping down the bore going back and forth in short strokes. By the time the brush and patches are at the muzzle, you should have 20 or 30 short back-and-forth strokes completed.

The patches will be black due to polishing metal. It is black because the metal particles are optically small, being on the order of a millionth of an inch for the most part. Too small to reflect light well. It is not a dimensionally significant material removal. Follow up by flipping the gun back over and running another couple of Eliminator wet patches to get the compound out, then a last dry patch. I usually like to pause in the neck portion of the chamber and twirl it a little to clear out any compound there. Use a brush in the neck if you are unsure of it. You are ready for break-in.

At the range, in addition to your round robin ammo for load determination, you should have 22 rounds of starting load level. Twenty for break-in and two for fouling before the round robin start. Fire one shot and run two patches of Eliminator and let it sit 2 minutes. Run another two wet patches and see if you got all the copper. If not, let it sit another 2 minutes. Keep this up until the copper is gone. Get out the brush and the Iosso or JB and go through that polishing step again, followed by two wet then a dry patch and drying the chamber.

Fire another round and repeat through all 20 rounds.

At the end of that period, the barrel is broken in and you are ready to fire a couple of fouling shots and proceed with the round robin Newberry describes. Don't bother with all the fuss of cleaning between the first 10 or twenty, then every third, then every fifth. I've never figured out what that's supposed to accomplish, since only cleaning for each round exposes the roughest part of the bore for the burnishing effect of the next round. By using the bore compound you have combined burnishing with surface polishing and will have done more for break-in in 20 rounds than the other methods do in 100. To make the rifle still easier to clean will require firelapping it. Most will be satisfactory at this point.

If I am running the Newberry round robin on a hunting rifle or a tac rifle, I clean every 8 or 9 or 10 rounds (whatever will best mix up which charge weight the cleaning steps fall on), then re-foul the barrel with two shots before proceeding. For the Garand, since it usually has to fire at least the 50 round National Match course between cleanings, I just shoot straight through the round robin.

[Loader9]

Yeah Unclenick, I got the data straight from the military spec book. I looked at the data several times before posting but the final decision to post is that I still have some of the original lot 44400 that was used for the M72 ammo. I can tell you it is slow as compared to the canister powder IMR4895. While I have no way to test the actual burn rate, I'd put it a hair slower than IMR4064.

[Tim R]

I found a load which shoots wonderful in a couple of my M-1 Service grades. Using Lake City brass, and after unforming the Primer Pockets, I use 46.5 Grs of IMR 4064under a 155 gr "Palma" SMK. To light things off I use CCI 200 primers. I have used CCI large Rifle BR primers but I almost think the standard CCI's do a little better.

The load is mild but fully fuctions the M-1 and will make it to 600 yards without problems, even in the wind.

[LDBennett]

The big Garand problem is too much gas driving the operating rod too viciously back and bending it. So you have to be careful to use exact duplicate loads of the ammo that was available in the Garand's day. Several reloading manuals can give you that data.

If you don't compete in one of the dead stock classes you can use one of the adjustable gas gas cylinder plugs and tailor the gas to the load. Schester (Brownells stocks them) is one. You adjust the gas from no extraction or ejection until the gun just locks back on a singly loaded round. Schester says to slowly adjust the gas for slightly more gas watching for group size reduction but don't allow the gas get to be too much or you are back to hurting the operating rod. This approach gives you almost unlimited choices of bullets and powder and not just the military replication ammo. It has been my experience that every gun is different and you have to test several combination to find the one the gun likes and it may not be the same as your friend's gun. The chances that the load for best group matches the military replica ammo I think is minimal (??).

LDBennett

[Unclenick]

bassfishindoc,

I went poking through my old load information and found Handloader #114, March-April 1985, has John Clark's article on match loads, listing dozens of them with different powders. Some things, like the weight and capacity of Winchester cases, have changed in the interim, but it gives you a pretty good idea of the ranges of charges. You can buy a copy of the issue for $10 from Wolfe Publishing.

[chiefr]

My Garand shoots best with 55,5gr H414, 150 gr. Hope this helps.

[AlaskaMike]

Chiefr, a load of 55.5 grains of H414 with a 150 grain bullet would seem to be very hard on the op-rod. Can you confirm that's the actual load you're using, and that it's not a typo?

I've seen other posts from time to time of people using H414 in the Garand with success, so I don't discount it--it just suprises me greatly because it's close to 4350 in burn rate.

[Unclenick]

Believe it or not, and if QuickLOAD is correct, that H414 load of Chiefr's is mild enough at its peak that it's port pressure roughly matches that of M2 AP ammo. M2 AP is rolled using WC852 (the canister grade version is H380). So an op-rod in good condition should tolerate it. If I had a worn one (in additon to bends and inability to spring back to shape, watch for carbon cake covering up deep rust pits just behind the piston head), I'd want to lower the pressure by using a vented gas cylinder plug. I'd prefer it anyway, just to keep the brass falling nearby.

From QuickLOAD, a 150 grain Hornady FMJ seated to 3.185" COL (cannelure at case mouth) in Lake City brass in a chamber the size of my older 9.5 lb Garand's govt. chamber:
H414 Charge: 55.5 grains,Case Fill: 91.4%, MV: 2786 fps, Peak Pressure: 43,382 psi, Gas Port pressure: 9,858 psi, Recoil Impulse: 14.30 ft-lb, barrel time 1.240 ms.

If I were to pick a "best" powder for 150 grain bullets in the Garand, I believe it would be N135. At 48.8 grains with the 150 grain Hornady FMJ as seated above, it seems to produce fair accuracy over the course. It fills the space under the bullet by over 93% in QuickLOAD. I've forgotten how the bottle I have compares with QL for density, but do remember it's a pretty decent case fill. I think I was still running Federal 210M's in the Garand at the time I developed that load, so if you use CCI #34 or KVM (TulAmmo and Wolf) 7.62 primers, you will want to knock it down 5% and work back up.

That 48.8 grain load only gives up 27 fps compared to Chief's load, but the gas port pressure drops from 9,858 psi for H414, to 8,243 psi for the N135 load in QL. Peak pressure is 3,300 psi higher, but at about 46,500 psi still is not much above starting load range. The recoil calculator gives it 12.66 ft-lbs. 46.5 grains also makes a good 200 yard load to save a little money, and still fills the case better than the usual suspects do. So, if you are firing in an As-Issued Garand match and have to provide 150 grain FMJ ammo, one of those two charges would be my choice.

[chiefr]

I developed the H414 mentioned in my previous post specifically for my garand and obtained outstanding groups with it. I never observed any signs of pressure on either the Garand or the cases. I tried 4831 and never got the good groups, I got with the 414
Having said that, I developed this load over 25 years ago. I was using the (Then New) Hodgdon's reloading manual #23 at the time which listed starting loads for the 150gr bullet at 53.5gr and 58.0 as the max. I liked the load so much, I loaded a large batch and still have 100 or so left.
It has been a while since I shot this war-winner and I am overdue to do so. Next time I will take the chrono and be more observant for pressure signs

I appreciate Alaska Mikes and Unclenicks feedback.

[458winshooter]

I shot my first CMP match 2 weeks ago in Oak Ridge,Tn.The guys shooting in the Garrand class all had to purchase their ammo there on the spot.(no mark up in price from CMP).It was Greek manufacture from the 50's and 60's.They took the time to let everyone sort threw and get all the same headstamp for their round at the line.CMP is supposed to have some good deals on old military ammo if you look on their website.The Garrand matches are shot at 200 yards or at least they are at ORSA.(Oak Ridge Sportsmans Association).So there is not really a need to use expensive components if you are allowed to use handloads where you shoot.A couple of guys shot high270 and 280 scores on that stuff out of a possible 300.I was in the military bolt class using a K98k so I could use handloads I guess but I am using old Yugoslav military stuff right now.The next competion is in two weeks so I am really looking forward to going back.They are having another next month as well that I hope to attend.

[Jim Watson]

The guys shooting in the Garrand class all had to purchase their ammo there on the spot

That is the reason I recommended handloading 150 gr bullets instead of the typical 168, 173, or 175 grain target loads.
Some of these shoots furnish or sell hardball ammunition and you had just as well have your sights in the ballpark.

[bassfishindoc]

Thanks for all the great advice! There are a few formulas here so I will be grabbing a few components and doing a bit of mixing and matching. Thanks you for narrowing down my selections!

[Unclenick]

Chiefr,

I expect the QuickLOAD estimate of 43,382 psi for your H414 load is pretty close. The .30-06 is rated at 60,000 psi, so you won't see any pressure signs from what you have. The concern is not the peak pressure, but the gas port pressure being high enough to damage the operating rod. Other than experience watching them run and seeing how far the cases eject, the only positive sign I know of for excess gas port pressure is when you discover the op-rod has bent and needs to be replaced. Running lower port pressure loads addresses that undesired possibility.

In general, the slower burning the powder, the higher your port pressure will be. IMR4831 would raise it another 10% or so over your H414 load. Yet another op-rod life shortening influence. As the Garand op-rod population has been depleted, replacements are getting harder to find. For that reason, the price has gone up considerably, so I don't recommend putting a bend in one if you can avoid it. In general, only medium speed powders are considered suitable these days. Nothing slower than IMR4320 is a common recommendation, and 4831 is rather slower than that. So is H414, by the way.

The Garand receiver itself is very strong. I've run some very warm loads in one by removing the gas cylinder plug and operating the action manually. I developed a 1000 yard load with rather more Varget than is recommended by Hodgdon and had no problems, but the gun did need a vented gas cylinder plug afterward to prevent violent op-rod operation.

[Slamfire]

A bud of mine who has placed second at the Garand Match at Camp Perry, and in the upper ten a couple of times, he uses 46 or 46.5 grains IMR 4064 with a 168 SMK. While IMR 4064 is a great powder, it does not throw well. That is no concern to my bud who weighs every charge, but I don’t have the patience.

I use IMR 4895. This was the powder used in the NM 30-06 loads at Camp Perry. It really is the “standard” by which to compare. IMR 4895 throws better than 4064 and shoots very well. There is no difference between IMR 4895 and AA2495 and very little difference between IMR 4895 and H4895. AA2520 is a ball powder and when it was cheap I used a lot of it. Shoots fine. I toss all my Garand loads.

I am using a 168 Nosler/SMK/Hornady match with 47.0 grains IMR 4895 and a CCI #34 primer. OAL is LT 3.30 inches and I using RA54, old military brass, in my match loads.

Shot from a match Garand, prone with a sling at 100 yards.


Same load, 20 shots prone at 200 yards with a sling in a local “Garand Match”. We had a match Garand category and that’s what I used.

I got frustrated using rack grade Garands as they won’t hold the black.


M1 Garand Douglas Barrel 1:10 twist


168 Sierra Match 47.0 grs AA2495 wtd WLR FC Cases OAL 3.30"
5 May 00 T = 82 ° F

Ave Vel = 2632
Std Dev = 16
ES = 50
Low = 2616
High = 2666
N = 10


168 gr Sierra Match 47.0 AA2520 WWII cases WLR OAL 3.30"
5 May 00 T = 82 ° F (185 to 190 gr cases)

Ave Vel = 2658
Std Dev = 35
ES = 85
Low = 2612
High = 2697
N = 5

[Howard31]

Gotta go with SLAMFIRE the proof is in the puddin.Nice shootin !
Reloader9 that 50gr of IMR 4895 would scare me,sounds pretty hot and hard on the gun.
Generally match ammo is not real hot,for 30 cal gas guns it's around 2550 fps.Hodgons and IMR 4895 are not interchangable.
For years I used 47.5 of IMR 4895 , LC Brass , Fed 210M primer and either a 168 SMK or the 173. I think the 173's are a thing of the past or soon will be. It is hard to beat the 168 in 30 cal.

[Leadman]

I am currently working loads for my garand. I'm not sure if you can use a adjustable gas plug but my load falls within safe presures anyway. 46 grains of varget (which I started at 44 and worked up through 47) 155 a-max moly oal of 3.255 win brass cci200 primer. Of the 20 different loads I tried this one was the best in my gun. I used H4895, imr 4064 and 168 bthps all were hornady bullets. Hope this helps and good luck.

[kraigwy]

Lets back up a bit. Before we get carried away with reloads for the Garand, we need to consider what the rifle is going to be used for.

The OP mentioned Garand Matches, in most CMP Garand Matches, if they are sanctioned, ammo is furnished. I think you will be using Surplus ammo.

Also the Match is fired at 200 yards, or 100 if a reduced match. It only takes a 2 moa gun to clean the targets. Its the shooter that doesn't.

CMP surplus ammo is pretty cheap. If you reload, then you should reload something close to the issue ammo, or 150 grn bullets about 2700 feet per second.

If ammo isn't furnished, remember it doesn't take much to get to 200 yards. Velocity doesn't mean accuracy. Look at ISU 300 meter shooters, you dint see them pushing their gun to the limits.

Use mid range powder, (4895/4064), but reduce your loads to where they work the action, then tweak to get the accuracy you want.

The lowest accurate load that will work the action, will be easiest on the gun and more important,the shooter.

[lgsracer]

Alabama Service Rifle Team

http://www.alabamaservicerifleteam.com/id17.html


Recommended .30 caliber M1 loadings from the NRA

147 - 155 grain FMJ or HPBT bullets
IMR 3031 - 48.0 grains
IMR 4895 - 49.0 grains
IMR 4064 - 50.0 grains
W748 - 48.0 grains
AA2460 - 49.0 grains
AA2520 - 51.0 grains
AA2495 - 50.5 grains
H4895 - 49.0 grains
BLC-2 - 49.0 grains
H335 - 49.0 grains
RL-12 - 48.0 grains


165/168 grain FMJ, HP or SP bullets
IMR 4895 - 47.0 grains
IMR 4094 - 48.0 grains
AA2520 - 47.5 grains
AA2495 - 47.0 grains
H4895 - 47.5 grains
BLC-2 - 49.0 grains
H335 - 47.0 grains
RL-12 - 44.5 grains


173/175 grain FMJ or HPBT bullets
IMR 4895 - 46.0 grains
IMR 4064 - 47.0 grains
AA2460 - 46.0 grains
AA2495 - 46.0 grains
H4895 - 47.0 grains
BLC-2 - 48.0 grains

180 grain FMJ, SP or HPBT bullets
IMR 4895 - 43.0 grains
AA2460 - 46.5 grains
AA2495 - 45.5 grains
H4895 - 44.0 grains
BLC-2 - 47.5 grains
RL-12 - 41.5 grains
Cases:
*The loads listed above use comerical cases* WW seems to be the best cases. If yhou are using Millspec cases you should reduce the powder charge by 1.5 Gr and work up slowly.

Primers:
I also recommend the use of WW large rifle primers due the fact that they are almost as hard as mil spec. The CCI #34 is a mil spec primer but, it's a MAG primer as well and should be used with ball powder. Federal Gold Medal Match primers are very good primers but, some say they are are very soft and should not be used in a "M" gun due to the fact of SLAM FIRES!

Powders:
As far as powders go IMR 4895,H4895 and IMR 4064 are great powders to use with the M1 in .30 cal. Some use Varget,RL 15 and VV140 but, your results may vary. A word to the wise: The old rule of thumb on powder is nothing faster than 4895 and nothing slower than 4064. Good words to load by.


Bullets: The 168 Sierra Match King and the 175 Sierra Match King are the two bullets I would look to if I was looking to make "Match" ammo for a 1-10 twist GI rifle. The 168 is a 300 meter bullet with a older designed boat tail. It still works great but, the 175 MK is the way to fly. The BC is something like 19% better and that translates to less knob twisting at 600 yards or so. The 175 Mk is basically a redesigned 173 gr GI match bullet built to stabilize in a 1-12 twist barrel. I would not shoot bullets any heavier than a 175gr in a GI gun that I really cared about. People used to shoot the 180 gr MK but, thats before the 175mk came out.


Match Loads:
The old standard "M72" LC match ammo shoots pretty good in GI rifles and Federal Gold Medal Match shoots really good in some rifles but, if you want to come up with a load that shoots like a house a fire try these out for size. * I can not profess to be the guy who came up with these super duty match loads. The M1 has been around a long time now and there really is nothing new as far as loads go. Sure the VLD bullets and new designer powders have come out and made things better? Right?.......Right. For my money these will work all day every day.*

175gr MK
WW large Pri
WW case
47gr 4064
3.340 OaL MAX

168 MK
WW Large Pri
WW case
48 4064
3.340 OAL MAX

4895 works just as well in these loads just adjust the charge per the chart above. H4895 never hurt a thing either.

[Mike40-11]

How amazingly convenient. I'm about to start working up a load for my Garand. Been shooting HXP for several years and I'm finally getting to the point that I feel like I can shoot better than at least some lots of the ammo.

I think I'm going to print this thread out and throw it in the book. Thanks guys.

[RKG]

My M1 load is a 165-gr Sierra Game King, 46.0 grains of Win 748, mixed military brass, and a standard CCI LR primer. This load cycles reliably, is mild enough for my beloved but aged M1, and is more accurate than either my rifle or the fellow who shoots it. One of the nice things about Win 748 is that it meters like water.

[golfnutrlv]

Hey everyone, reviving an old thread. Lot of good info on Garand loads here. Hopefully, I will soon be ordering a CMP Garand myself, just kicking around load data and specs.

Couple further questions:

Those of you who have used the CCI 34 primers: since they are magnums, did you back the load data off about 10%? That's what I have always been told to do when using a magnum primer with standard primer charges. (Never had occassion to use a mag primer yet).

I would like to use the Winchester Large rifle, since that would eliminate the magnum question. Further thoughts on this primer in a garand???

Finally, what overall length are you guys using? I'm most likely going to load 150gr Hornady FMJ, 168 Gr Hornady match, or 168 gr AMax match bullets. I know the Garand can be picky on length.

Thanks all!!!!!