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Old April 22, 2011, 11:32 PM   #26
Shotput79
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Join Date: March 20, 2011
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I Like That

I like that 58. Never saw a .36 like that one before. I bet that's like shooting a rifle. A 130gr slug is a lot of lead. I would love to find a mold that would make bullets in that 130 to 180gr bullets for my .44s. Have you ever shot rats, or small game with it? another thing, do they shortened the cylinder on that model? I want one of the 12" barrel 58s, I'm having to make myself not buy any revolvers for a while. For me it all started with the 1858 .44 Remington Army 22 years ago, and seven revolvers later I still love to open a new box, with a new revolver inside, to get it out, and have all that oil dripping off it. After cleaning it up, to the point were you could load it, or just set down, pulling the hammer back, take aim, pull the trigger, let the hammer down, I'll do that the first day it shows up. I order through Cabela's, or Dixie. I have stuck with the Pietta revolvers. It's hard not to repeat yourself on these threads. I will say this, if Pietta made a walker than I wouldn't have any Uberti products. I do not have anything against Uberti, I did have a hammer spring brake on my walker after 30, 40 rounds fired, and had to learn how to fix it. The folks here on the forum helped me with the information needed to fixed it without a gunsmith. Believe that little repair job was good for me. Next time I need a repair on one of them, its not so hard to be your own gunsmith. Why do people fear the brass frames so much. If you put The 20 to 25grs of powder in the .36, and 20 to 30grs in the .44s whats the big dill. They used brass frames in the war of all places. I bought the 1851 .44 cal brass frame, with the idea of shooting the hack out of it not keeping the brass polished, Just shoot it, clean it, put it up, over, and over, and over. The gun still looks, locks up, and action is still good as new. Have you noticed the amount of powder, in the brass frames vs the steel frames are not much different, to be able to group well with them anyway. No matter which frame you have nether, brass nor steel will do you a lot of good if you can't put a least five out of six rounds in the center area of a coffee can at 30 feet, or 25 yards about 100 feet. I like 30 feet cause that's like twice the length of two rooms in the house.
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Old April 24, 2011, 05:05 PM   #27
ZVP
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I see now! Put this way, the volume of a full chamber of BP is not enough to rupture the steel chamber, therefore you will not blow your gun up. One had to read between the lines to understand that
I do think I will refrain from loading so full and use 20-25 gr of FFF in my .36's and 35 as the max for my .44's , maybe less. This is just to extract the best preformance from my guns.
After re-reading the posts I got the jest of the statements.
Checking around thru Owners manuals, Magazines such as GOTOW and several other books, I see that the most accurate load might be as low as 18gr of FFF in .36 and maybe 20 for a .44 . It all depends on repeated tests.
Well there's nothing like doing a lot of BP shooting to find your most accurate powder charge!
ZVP

Last edited by ZVP; April 25, 2011 at 03:57 PM.
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Old April 24, 2011, 05:50 PM   #28
Hawg
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The brass frames used in the war weren't brass. They were bronze with a high copper content called gun metal at the time. A .36 won't handle 25 grains of powder repeatedly without damage just as a .44 won't handle 30 repeatedly. Thats probably the reason they never made any brass .44's during the war. They knew they wouldn't hold up.
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Old April 25, 2011, 04:18 PM   #29
ZVP
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Thanks for the information on the make-up of the origonal "Brass" frames! I didn't know such an alloy was used! It's good to get proper historical inputs to put facts in their proper place.
Strength is not a positive point to the "Brass" frame however the metal does have a self lubricating property which makes the steel parts function with a bearing-like smoothness. I have noticed this fact with my Piettia .44 Navy, it is super smooth1 I know that the metal has strength linitations and one should ALWAYS light-load the chambers! Frame stretching is a definate danger and besides there is no use in trying to harm a handgun just loading fullor maximum charges to impress someone (as is usually the point...).
There is no reason that you can't enjoy a long shooting relationship with a brass framed revolver if you aare prudent. Observing proper loading and cleaning techniques should give the revolver a long lifetime and give you good service for plinking or tatget uses.
I loke the look of brass framed revolvers because they look like gold! My "pratical" side forces me to choose Steel Framed revolvers though just because of the value and "safety" strength of a steel frame! In most casess the steel frame is more correct. Today there are several made-up sub models on the market and several are Brass framed.
Current metalurgy allows for a flexability of design and has brought models like theSpiller& Burr into reach of the everyday shooter!Factories are able to mass manufacture these models and market them. In all actuallity Brass frames are a good thing, provided that you follow common sense safety procedures.
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