refinish question please help

1chig · November 22, 2010, 05:16 PM

i am trying to put my last coat of true oil on a stock i refinished. What is the best methed for doing this. I have tried hand rubbing it on and applying it with a cloth, both are inconsistant,as in i can see streaks. I have applied about 3 last coats so far, running out of oil.

. I am applying thin coats and sanding between coats. I just cant seem to get the last coat just write. any tricks?

publius · November 22, 2010, 05:47 PM

What I would do. Apply thin final coat with fingers. After it becomes sticky, (15-20) min., buff thoroughly with clean lint free cotton cloth. 2-3 days later buff vigorously with clean burlap or cotton cloth.

smoakingun · November 22, 2010, 08:28 PM

good old automotive scratch remover works like a charm

James K · November 22, 2010, 09:27 PM

It sounds like something in or on the stock is preventing the Tru-Oil from going on right. I would remove everything, and start over, using a solvent and sanding the stock to remove any residue. It could be light spots in the wood, which you can't always prevent especially if the stain doesn't take.

Jim

50of4064 · November 25, 2010, 10:25 AM

I think Jim is on the right track.
Three coats is not a lot since sometimes to get the finish just to my liking there may be 10-15 coats on it when done. I think that you may be putting on to much at a time, the oil finish may look glossy as you wipe it on and there is where your streaking is occurring.
I found that RUBBING the true oil in by hand worked best, Just a few drops or so and smooth it around a given area and rub it in, it will spread out and as you rub it will start to tack up, play with it and add a drop if you need to, then move down to the next area and work up to the area you just finished. After about 3-4 coats with the overnight to dry between coats, I either sand or steel wool the stock down again, Mineral spirits to wipe down and start over, this builds up and levels out the finished surface.
The deep luster finish that you can get from an oil rub is not like a spray finish, it is not a finish you just wipe on and off a few times.
Did you fill the stock wood before you started to apply the oil finish?
P.S. The finish will take a full 2-3 weeks to reach full cure, the nice thing about the oil finish is it is easy to restore, hit it with 0000 steel wool and re-coat.

hooligan1 · November 25, 2010, 05:15 PM

All the poster's are stealing any thunder I could muster, only don't use any kind of sand paper between coats, all the sanding IS DONE, use 0000 steelwool lightly only after letting it set over 24 hours, and then only lightly to roughen surface to adhease another coat, and then when your content with the thickness of coating, rub Johnsons paste wax into the stock, but only after leting it cure for a couple days or so, maybe even a week!!

But earlier in another thread Scorch brought up the point that Tru-Oil scrathes easy, and he's totally right, you have to be careful with that finish, its beautiful but delicate, unfortunately.

I used to use G-96 Gunstock finish in a spray, and I don't know if they still make it but it's really pretty tough and nice looking also!!

James K · November 26, 2010, 12:25 AM

I have used Minwax "Gunstock" stain with good success. I have a reddish stain I add for the old Winchesters. Then a coat of Minwax Spar Urethane does a fine job and is hard and durable with no stickiness.

I have also done the true hand rubbed linseed oil finish with good results, but it takes a lot of time and patience and I do it only when necessary to duplicate an original oil finish. And I mean hand rubbed, using the hand only, not a cloth.

Jim

50of4064 · November 29, 2010, 01:45 AM

Not to miss lead you, when I mentioned sanding between coats, Hooligan1 is correct in the use of 0000 steel wool.

On my first stock I tried wiping the oil on with different applicators; rags, sponges, my hand and they all left streaking and lines, I was not a happy camper. I ended sanding out those lines with 2000 grit wet or dry paper and gun oil as the wetting agent, and very little pressure, then wiping the stock down with lacquer thinner and a lint free rag before applying new coats of true oil. Looking back I risked sanding into the finish and that would have been more work, I was careful and suppose lucky that didn't happen. That is when the RUB part of the " oil rubbed finish " made sense. It is not a wipe it on finish. I did not have any help with mine and it was all learn on the job.

Keep in mind that you do not want to get into the finish lest you want to start over. The 0000 steel wool will not take down the finish to the stain, less you just go crazy with it, just enough 0000 steel wool to knock down the gloss and to add some tooth to the surface for the next coat to stick to.

You can't mess the oil finish up, if your not happy with it sand if off and start over, don't be intimidated by the process.

Can't wait to see you finished stock!

1chig · November 30, 2010, 12:01 PM

thanks for all the good advice everyone. I think i finally got it done and it looks pretty good for what i had to work with. I am not to big on a high gloss finish, i like a nice satin, so everything worked out pretty good . i will ty to post some pictures once i get it all put back together. Thanks again

November 22, 2010, 05:16 PM	#1
1chig Senior Member Join Date: October 31, 2009 Location: central missouri Posts: 246	refinish question please help i am trying to put my last coat of true oil on a stock i refinished. What is the best methed for doing this. I have tried hand rubbing it on and applying it with a cloth, both are inconsistant,as in i can see streaks. I have applied about 3 last coats so far, running out of oil.. I am applying thin coats and sanding between coats. I just cant seem to get the last coat just write. any tricks? __________________ those who anger you are those who control you!!!!

November 22, 2010, 05:47 PM	#2
publius Senior Member Join Date: January 25, 2005 Location: Mississippi/Texas Posts: 2,505	What I would do. Apply thin final coat with fingers. After it becomes sticky, (15-20) min., buff thoroughly with clean lint free cotton cloth. 2-3 days later buff vigorously with clean burlap or cotton cloth. __________________ "Suppose you were an idiot, and suppose you were a member of Congress, but I repeat myself." Mark Twain

November 22, 2010, 08:28 PM	#3
smoakingun Senior Member Join Date: April 12, 2009 Location: melrose, fl Posts: 634	good old automotive scratch remover works like a charm __________________ Hundreds of years from now, it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove... But the world may be different because I did something so bafflingly crazy that my ruins become a tourist attraction.

November 25, 2010, 10:25 AM	#5
50of4064 Member Join Date: April 20, 2009 Location: Southern Calif. Posts: 52	I think Jim is on the right track. Three coats is not a lot since sometimes to get the finish just to my liking there may be 10-15 coats on it when done. I think that you may be putting on to much at a time, the oil finish may look glossy as you wipe it on and there is where your streaking is occurring. I found that RUBBING the true oil in by hand worked best, Just a few drops or so and smooth it around a given area and rub it in, it will spread out and as you rub it will start to tack up, play with it and add a drop if you need to, then move down to the next area and work up to the area you just finished. After about 3-4 coats with the overnight to dry between coats, I either sand or steel wool the stock down again, Mineral spirits to wipe down and start over, this builds up and levels out the finished surface. The deep luster finish that you can get from an oil rub is not like a spray finish, it is not a finish you just wipe on and off a few times. Did you fill the stock wood before you started to apply the oil finish? P.S. The finish will take a full 2-3 weeks to reach full cure, the nice thing about the oil finish is it is easy to restore, hit it with 0000 steel wool and re-coat. Last edited by 50of4064; November 26, 2010 at 12:33 AM.

November 25, 2010, 05:15 PM	#6
hooligan1 Senior Member Join Date: July 18, 2010 Location: Independence Missouri Posts: 4,586	All the poster's are stealing any thunder I could muster, only don't use any kind of sand paper between coats, all the sanding IS DONE, use 0000 steelwool lightly only after letting it set over 24 hours, and then only lightly to roughen surface to adhease another coat, and then when your content with the thickness of coating, rub Johnsons paste wax into the stock, but only after leting it cure for a couple days or so, maybe even a week!! But earlier in another thread Scorch brought up the point that Tru-Oil scrathes easy, and he's totally right, you have to be careful with that finish, its beautiful but delicate, unfortunately. I used to use G-96 Gunstock finish in a spray, and I don't know if they still make it but it's really pretty tough and nice looking also!! __________________ Keep your Axe sharp and your powder dry.

November 22, 2010, 09:27 PM	#4
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	It sounds like something in or on the stock is preventing the Tru-Oil from going on right. I would remove everything, and start over, using a solvent and sanding the stock to remove any residue. It could be light spots in the wood, which you can't always prevent especially if the stain doesn't take. Jim

November 26, 2010, 12:25 AM	#7
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	I have used Minwax "Gunstock" stain with good success. I have a reddish stain I add for the old Winchesters. Then a coat of Minwax Spar Urethane does a fine job and is hard and durable with no stickiness. I have also done the true hand rubbed linseed oil finish with good results, but it takes a lot of time and patience and I do it only when necessary to duplicate an original oil finish. And I mean hand rubbed, using the hand only, not a cloth. Jim

November 29, 2010, 01:45 AM	#8
50of4064 Member Join Date: April 20, 2009 Location: Southern Calif. Posts: 52	clarification Not to miss lead you, when I mentioned sanding between coats, Hooligan1 is correct in the use of 0000 steel wool. On my first stock I tried wiping the oil on with different applicators; rags, sponges, my hand and they all left streaking and lines, I was not a happy camper. I ended sanding out those lines with 2000 grit wet or dry paper and gun oil as the wetting agent, and very little pressure, then wiping the stock down with lacquer thinner and a lint free rag before applying new coats of true oil. Looking back I risked sanding into the finish and that would have been more work, I was careful and suppose lucky that didn't happen. That is when the RUB part of the " oil rubbed finish " made sense. It is not a wipe it on finish. I did not have any help with mine and it was all learn on the job. Keep in mind that you do not want to get into the finish lest you want to start over. The 0000 steel wool will not take down the finish to the stain, less you just go crazy with it, just enough 0000 steel wool to knock down the gloss and to add some tooth to the surface for the next coat to stick to. You can't mess the oil finish up, if your not happy with it sand if off and start over, don't be intimidated by the process. Can't wait to see you finished stock!

November 30, 2010, 12:01 PM	#9
1chig Senior Member Join Date: October 31, 2009 Location: central missouri Posts: 246	thanks for all the good advice everyone. I think i finally got it done and it looks pretty good for what i had to work with. I am not to big on a high gloss finish, i like a nice satin, so everything worked out pretty good . i will ty to post some pictures once i get it all put back together. Thanks again __________________ those who anger you are those who control you!!!!