Heavy Barrel 6.5 Creedmore Suggestion

[Bfglowkey]

The clamp on brake has been a pleasant addition. As I said I was skeptical and those worries are all gone now. It takes the bite out of my heavier loads by at least 40% for sure. I notice a lot less jump when I am firing from bi-pod.

[Bfglowkey]

I am researching if there is a conversion to allow a mag feed set up. There is a Aluminum chassis for the internal mag fed line of Savages that supposedly comes with the stuff you need. I cant see how it would be too difficult or all the mods may be done on the chassis already. I just wanted a more classic wood type stock with this build.

[RC20]

Some of the Savages do have up quality barrels.

I don't know which ones for sure. Listed as done on select Match and Long Range Rifles.

[ninosdemente]

I was doing a quick search and tried to look at options for changing stocks, grips, etc. and came across this site if I were planning on "building". I have not thoroughly searched the site/have to make sure it would fit but it did have what would interest me if I were to get the 10T: https://www.lockharttactical.com/pro...ry_pathway-286

But it seems that I would end up spending much more vs getting RPR. Perhaps, would need to suck it up and not go that route and get something more simple such as a Boyd's stock or get a 12FV 6.5 creedmore and go from there or build off the 12FV .223 instead. Choices, choices... which one is better for me.... lol.

But would like to "build" a rifle as I don't have much I own and would be great to have something to my taste. Just have to keep looking to see if better prices can be found.

[Bfglowkey]

You really cannot go wrong with the RPR. What it offers, can shoot and relatively 0 need to do anything other then put a scope on it to start shooting distances with confidence in your gear is just so difficult to beat. I love mine and look forward to many years of fun.

[precision_shooter]

Tikka T3x CTR gets my vote. No it doesn’t have a fancy aluminum stock but it does have a 10 round detachable box mag, a very good synthetic stock with large palm swell and cheek riser, a good factory adjustable trigger that breaks clean and consistent every single time, a picatinny rail for mounting a scope, threaded barrel for adding a suppressor or brake of your choice, and can be had in 20” or 24” barrel lengths. I sold all of my savages (12fv, 10T-SR, etc.) and kept the tikka in 6.5 creed.

[hooligan1]

Make sure the brake is on and tight, saw a fella last week shoot his off, right through a 25 yd target stand, I wanted a picture of it but couldn't get to my car and back fast enough!!!

[RC20]

But would like to "build" a rifle as I don't have much I own and would be great to have something to my taste. Just have to keep looking to see if better prices can be found.

While the direction I went is different, I did use the Savage to build up 3 rifles in calibers I wanted to shoot.

I got a 12FV, put a XCB Bull barrel on it and a EABS Thumb Hole Stock (much like the Boyds but not nearly as good)

I turned a Savage 1xx with a detectable magazine into a single shot (and a Top Bolt Release) and a 7.5 x 55 Swiss barrel (Walther Lother Heavy Varmint) with a Boyds TH stock.

The least converted one was a 30-06 with the Featherweight Savage Factory (110 BTH) Boyds stocks with a Bull 30-06 barrel.

While I don't care for it, you can get a Boyds all in 1 stock.

Other options are to get both adjustable length and an adjsutalb cheek rise on any of the Laminated Boyds stocks.

That includes the Prairie Varmint if I am remembering it right that has what I call the Super Grip vs a TH. I got to shoot one of those latter and liked it as well as the TH.

Barrel changes are easy and tools low cost.

Not trying to push, lots of choices and directions to go.

I havn't shot one of the Savage Chasis types, I did shoot the RPR. I thought I would like the Grip but did not do anything for me.

But then I just single load and setup the 7.5 Swiss deliberately as a single load. For what I do the magazine doesn't help, others it works for.

[Chaparral]

Been out to 600 yds. I was very impressed with it at that range.

[Chaparral]

Originally Posted by ninosdemente

Chaparral, how far have you gone with your rifle. Thank you for the link. Did checked the link you provided.

I took it to a 1000 yd range. I made it out to 600 yds in increments. I was very impressed how it did at 600.

[Bfglowkey]

The Tikkas are very nice rifles. The action is one of the smoothest I have cycled on a sub 2k rifle. I enjoy both the chassis style and classic palm swell that Tikkas sit in. My next desire is a 6mm Creedmoor ( mainly because of the large quantities of 6.5 brass I have and can convert) over the 243 or other 6 offerings. I will focus on making it what I stalk with/conventional hunting trips in Canada and Vermont. Just trying to decide what action and barrel I want or take the RAP or Savage 10T at Cabela's and slowly change it out over time.

[Chainsaw.]

Savage 10t-sr is great, I have one. Added a kydex cheek weld. Shoots lights out. Also consider the 10 fcp, has a better detachable mag. In fact thats the biggest down side to the tsr, the mag is kind junky, but works.

[Bfglowkey]

I have heard, my only concern with the 6mm was the reviews about the headspacing or chamber being a little undersized and the 108 Hornady ELD factory ammo would not chamber correctly. Rumor has it if you do buy one and it is the 26" barrel then it will not have the issue. I am headed to Cabela's on Thursday to decide and take the plunge.

[ninosdemente]

hooligan1, that must have been an embarrassment for the guy. thanks for the advice.

[ninosdemente]

RC20, did you change your barrel after considerable use of the original barrel on your 12FV or replaced it soon after getting it? Appreciate you letting us know what you did to your rifles. Not knowing much, have no idea what can get replaced, added, etc. Only with time will I know for sure.

Of course with the help of everyone in the forum as well.

[ninosdemente]

Chainsaw., is this what you are referring to:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-...-/291200728515

What do you mean when you refer as the mag as being junky?

I checked the 10 fcp but it looks like it is only in .308 though.

[taylorce1]

I don't know if you found a rifle yet, but Brownell's has a pretty good deal on a blued 24" HB Threaded Howa barreled action. It's ready for your chassis or stock of choice, they also have an option for FDE Cerakote. It's a little more expensive to rebarrel the first time, but you can convert to a barrel nut system like Savage when it's time to replace the barrel.

[ninosdemente]

Not yet, still trying to figure out what to do.

[Chainsaw.]

Yes, thats the type of cheek weld I got, works great.

About the mag, it a detachable 4 shot mag, stanped steel, as most mags are. Loading it is fine, holds the rounds fine. The issues arise when running the gun, Ive found if I cycle the bolt slow the round will pop out of the mag, jiggle around in the overly generous chamber area and fall into some space where it wont want to chamber. This means digging around in the chamber for that round and hand feeding it. Doesn't happen all the time but can be annoying. If you run the bolt fast this doesn't happen. Also the mag rocks in the opposite of most rifles Ive shot, back to front. (Im not heavily bolt action experienced) it works fine, just seems odd.

[MarkCO]

Originally Posted by kraigwy

I have both the Ruger Precision Rifle and the Ruger American Preditor in 6.5 CM.

You would be suprised to learn shooting both, there really isnt a difference in Accuracy between the two. Both are extremely accurate.

Not sure I would have gotten the RPR had I bought the RAP first.

Agree.

The Ruger American Predators are a steal. Basically the same action and barrel as the Ruger Precision. The Boyds AT-One gives one an inexpensive adjustable stock if you desire those features. Or, if you just need to adjust cheek weld, the $30-$50 kydex riser kits work well.

I have had three RPRs, sold two and upgraded most of the parts on the third outfitted as in integrally suppressed .308Win. They are a good starter rifle if you need a chassis for matches and in reality, they will take most as far as they want to go, same with the Savages. The Tikka and Bergara are better rifles in terms of fit and finish as well as accuracy.

If your budget is in the $500ish range, Ruger American Predator. If it is in the $1000+ range, look at the Bergara. HMR (mini-chassis stock) or BMP (chassis). The BMP is a few steps up from the RPR, but well worth the extra coin. http://bergarausa.com/bergara_b-14_s...sion_rifle.php

[ninosdemente]

Chainsaw, thanks for the explanation. Tell me about annoying... loading the 12Fv was annoying at first as I was having a hard time and was basically loading one at a time until I finally got it.

[ninosdemente]

What would be a reason why the RPR is much more than the Ruger American Predators if they have the same action/barrel? Because of the chasis?

The Boyds At-One does fit to something similar I am looking for.

You that had 3 RPR's, what made you sell two of them?

The Bergara is much more that I am looking to spend. I still have to have the cope in mind also.

[Srewball]

Nino,
I will put in another vote for the Bergara HMR B-14. Price point @ $850-$950 depending on where you buy. Magazine fed with easy to find an not expensive mags.
Threaded heavy barrel. Pretty damn smooth action that is a Remington 700 "clone". Quality barrel and adjustable stock. Here is the best part...in my experience, it shoots incredibly well for an off the shelf rifle under a grand. It puts my other 6.5 creedmoor to shame with accuracy and even though I reload for my other rifles, the Bergara ( mine anyways ) will shoot factory Hornady hunting or match ammo so well that I havnt even bothered putting loads together for this gun. I use it as my "grab and go " deer rifle / coyote fixer.
Chris

[Bfglowkey]

If you break down the design of the RPR vs the Predator you will see some nuances that lend to , in my opinion, greater off shelf accuracy. This said you could buy a RAP and make it into a similar beast as RPR:

First the "lower" or the stock the RPR "sits" in. More like it just attaches to the Action and Barrel. There is nothing to "bed" or worry about when firing the RPR in terms of settling back into the same spot for repeatability. In the RAP the Action and barrel sit in a stock that after a firing could find the whole thing sitting millimeters off from its last point when you fired. This minute variable means everything isn't the same and hence a good chance the next shot will be "different" now bedding with the V blocks help but again its not perfect, and screws get loose etc. In the RPR the barrel has no real worry in terms of if its "free floating". Harmonics / vibration of the barrel is unobstructed and 360 degrees free to do as it needs. In traditional rifles only the top 180 degrees is fully free and you can take measures to free float it in the stock. Ultimately though given factory materials/stocks after just a few firings and things begin heating up and expansion happens...well you can see that the occasional touch can and does happen in factory stocks of that quality...leading to obstructed harmonics and that pesky "-CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED- happened to that shot" syndrome.
Lastly the weight of the RPR lends itself to very comfortable recoil management and with the adjustability of pull and comb along with surprisingly good trigger..the RPR is just easy to get behind and I find I am much more relaxed when I shoot mine vs my 308 Savage FV ( which shoots amazing as well after the TLC and new stock)
I just acquired a RAP in 6mm and will be doing the step approach to see how each change effects the original out of the box performance.
Wonder if Rueger will ever make a RPR in 300 WM?

[ninosdemente]

How are these:

https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/...RD+LUTH+STK+ML

https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/...oducts_id/8552