Wood Stock repair

Logs · July 1, 2021, 08:22 AM

Long story short my Browning BAR GEN 1 stock is busted. I have spoke to Browning and they don't have parts. Checked with Boyds and they make GEN 2 stocks that are narrower than my GEN 1 so those won't work. Found a few on Ebay that were $250-$450 just for the rear stock so pretty expensive.

If I just wanted to repair it what should I use to attach it? Certain wood glue, gorilla glue etc? Watched a few youtube vids and some guys goofed it up so don't want to make the same mistakes.

Any words of wisdom?

I wish I could just buy a Composite Stock and move on, but can't find one.

MC 1911 · July 1, 2021, 09:07 AM

Glue & a dowel would be my suggestion.

Clemson · July 1, 2021, 10:12 AM

I use Acra-glas -- the runny stuff, not the Gel. Coat the joint, compress with rubber tubing, clean up the squeeze out, and let it set for 24 hours before you put the stock back on the rifle.

**4V50 Gary** · July 1, 2021, 10:47 AM

The dowel suggested by MC_1911 is very valid. I'd mask it with an inlaid small brass oval that can be engraved with your initials or some critter.

Acraglass it like Clemson suggested. Tape up the areas on the exterior that you don't want Acraglass on and then attach. I'd use a clamp instead of rubber tubing (which will work just as well).

eflyguy · July 1, 2021, 10:55 AM

With the stock separated from the action, I think a little regular wood glue and masking tape would make that repair virtually invisible. Just make sure it's clean (dust off the mating surfaces) before applying glue.

No dowel necessary. Wood glue bonds are stronger than surrounding wood.

tango1niner · July 1, 2021, 12:06 PM

I would use clear epoxy or Agra-glass and band or clamp piece in position. Once the epoxy has hardened I would (from the top) drill clearance holes through the glued on piece and into the stock for 2 ea. #10 or #12 brass machine screws and epoxy them in place. Then dress screws flush with top. Some light sanding and a dab of Truoil or varnish and I'm done with that...

I would then make sure the seating surface against the receiver is making full contact and tighten up the stock screw guttentight... My repair will be obvious and that is ok with me.

**4V50 Gary** · July 1, 2021, 12:33 PM

What tango1niner suggested gives me an idea (a dangerous thing).

We used brass rod to make a flower on a stock (flintlock or muzzle loading percussion gun). The stock could be drilled for one larger piece of white metal in the center with decorative (but not so deep) smaller brass rods as petals around it. Flower power! Write your last initial on the white metal and stiple around the letter to customize it too. Then wire inlay around the flower.

It would be good if you have one single tooth checkering tool to clean up the lines where the glue/acraglass overflows.

Don't want an initial/letter? Put a bleeding heart into the centerpiece.

603Country · July 1, 2021, 07:09 PM

To reduce the chance of the broken chunk ‘drifting’ when you clamp it. I do believe I’d use a dowel. Just using glue may not hold the reattached piece firmly in place. It’s difficult to clamp oddly shaped chunks of wood. A wooden screw type clamp might work pretty well and prevent drift IF applied perfectly.

Scorch · July 2, 2021, 01:06 AM

Okay, first off, don't use wood glue on a firearm. Wood glue is not generally oil and solvent resistant. Use slow-cure epoxy like Acraglas or West Marine resin epoxy. 2 steps-
1- glue the piece back in place with epoxy
2- pin it in place with a 1/8" hardwood dowel epoxied into a hole drilled from the inside. Don't drill all the way through, it will look like hammered crap.

Seal the joint with TruOil or similar.

I like to glass bed repairs like those onto the receiver so that there is no flex in the repair area and contact is even across the stock/receiver bedding areas.

After it is repaired, make sure the bedding surfaces meet the receiver and make sure the stock draw bolt plate is in its groove in the receiver and the trigger group housing and that the draw bolt is tight. What often happens with BARs is the plate the draw bolt screws into moves because the stock loosens and then the stock moves upwards and breaks.

bbqncigars · July 4, 2021, 08:42 AM

Scorch for the win! I have successfully repaired a couple of stocks using his technique, although I used a piece of bamboo skewer for a dowel on one repair. No problems over twenty years later.

Logs · July 5, 2021, 11:39 AM

Thanks everyone. I have a buddy who is a woodworker that is going to help me. I don't have any tools / clamps to do the correctly. I shot the rifle this weekend and it shoots really nice so I hope I can figure this out.

**Aguila Blanca** · July 5, 2021, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scorch

2- pin it in place with a 1/8" hardwood dowel epoxied into a hole drilled from the inside. Don't drill all the way through, it will look like hammered crap.

Two [related] questions?

1. If you don't drill the hole through from the top, how do you get the holes in the two pieces perfectly aligned and positioned?

2. If you don't want the dowel to be visible from the outside, why is the dowel insertion listed as the second step, AFTER the broken piece has been glued back in place?

eflyguy · July 5, 2021, 03:54 PM

Exactly why a dowel is a dumb idea.

.. but he found someone experienced working with wood. I'm relatively sure it'll work out fine. Wood repair isn't exactly a new science.

**Aguila Blanca** · July 5, 2021, 04:01 PM

No, a dowel is a very good idea, because it adds a new piece of wood, with the grain running transverse to the plane of failure, to reinforce the repair. The issue isn't whether orr not it's a good idea -- it is -- the issue is how to install a dowel and make it look good.

ms6852 · July 5, 2021, 04:13 PM

Agree with the wood dowel and epoxy. Line up the broken piece of wood to the stock and secure with masking tape and drill through the masking tape for your dowel. This insure alignment of both holes from the broke piece and the stock.

**4V50 Gary** · July 5, 2021, 07:32 PM

Aguila Blanca - I would put the pieces together, align then clamp. Then I'd drill a hole for the dowel. Unclamp and separate. Afterward I would apply acraglass to the two pieces and the dowel and join the parts together, inserting the dowel afterward.

Pahoo · July 5, 2021, 07:58 PM

I would dowel it or preferably pin it and most certainly use a tinted Acra-glas and do it in a manner that all you might see, is the glue seam. The only time you would see the pins/dowell is when you pull the stock off. I might even insert a metal bone between both pieces .....

Another point is to understand how this happened. I've seen to many shotgun stock break like this. ....

BE Safe!!!

**Aguila Blanca** · July 5, 2021, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4V50 Gary

I would put the pieces together, align then clamp. Then I'd drill a hole for the dowel. Unclamp and separate. Afterward I would apply acraglass to the two pieces and the dowel and join the parts together, inserting the dowel afterward.

That's what I would do, too. BUT ...

What Scorch wrote, which is what generated my question, was:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scorch

pin it in place with a 1/8" hardwood dowel epoxied into a hole drilled from the inside. Don't drill all the way through, it will look like hammered crap.

And I don't know how that's possible to do.

Scorch · July 6, 2021, 12:32 AM

Quote:

1. If you don't drill the hole through from the top, how do you get the holes in the two pieces perfectly aligned and positioned?

2. If you don't want the dowel to be visible from the outside, why is the dowel insertion listed as the second step, AFTER the broken piece has been glued back in place?

Re-read the instructions. And make sure you take the stock off the rifle before doing anything.
1- you glue the broken piece in place.
2- you drill from the inside of the stock to dowel the repair.

Not the other way around.

tango1niner · July 7, 2021, 08:33 AM

There is a way to dowel with blind holes. I have made and used "transfer buttons". Drill the blind holes a bit "OVERSIZE" in either piece of wood. The transfer button should be a good fit in the hole. Adjust the length of the "POINTED" transfer button so the point just protrudes above the break. Position the other piece and clamp, then remove the piece. The point from the button will leave a mark. Drill OVERSIZE holes in the other piece. Cut the length of the dowel slightly shorter than the depth of holes combined.

So now the dowel is slightly shorter than the holes and also smaller in diameter. Fill the holes part way with epoxy and lather up the two pieces being glued. Insert dowels , put pieces together, position and clamp. The dowels will be epoxied in place and encased in epoxy. It is more work but there are no visible holes. Good luck.

I make the transfer buttons for this job with no shoulders.

natman · July 7, 2021, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tango1niner

There is a way to dowel with blind holes. I have made and used "transfer buttons". Drill the blind holes a bit "OVERSIZE" in either piece of wood. The transfer button should be a good fit in the hole. Adjust the length of the "POINTED" transfer button so the point just protrudes above the break. Position the other piece and clamp, then remove the piece. The point from the button will leave a mark. Drill OVERSIZE holes in the other piece. Cut the length of the dowel slightly shorter than the depth of holes combined.

So now the dowel is slightly shorter than the holes and also smaller in diameter. Fill the holes part way with epoxy and lather up the two pieces being glued. Insert dowels , put pieces together, position and clamp. The dowels will be epoxied in place and encased in epoxy. It is more work but there are no visible holes. Good luck.

+1

Use transfer buttons to get the center for the second hole close, drill it slightly oversize, then fill the extra room around the dowel with epoxy. You can get the buttons at Harbor Freight or Amazon.

**4V50 Gary** · July 9, 2021, 08:22 PM

I was not aware of transfer buttons. May need them for a cabinet I'm making. thanks.

**Aguila Blanca** · July 9, 2021, 09:48 PM

I know about transfer buttons, but I regard them as suitable for use when joining two pieces that have smooth, regular surfaces and which can be carefully aligned when transferring the center mark. I can't see any way that a transfer button could be used with any degree of accuracy in this situation.

tango1niner · July 10, 2021, 09:06 AM

Yep, the buttons are only to get you close. Can you not think of a way to get the alignment close? Think flat surfaces. The length of the button is adjusted so the point can make only the smallest mark. With this in mind maybe re-reading the post might help.

skywag · July 10, 2021, 09:34 AM

I wouldn't dwell on making the joint invisible................only strong.

That is a very plain piece of wood.

July 1, 2021, 10:12 AM	#3
Clemson Senior Member Join Date: March 9, 2001 Location: Greenwood, SC Posts: 875	I use Acra-glas -- the runny stuff, not the Gel. Coat the joint, compress with rubber tubing, clean up the squeeze out, and let it set for 24 hours before you put the stock back on the rifle. __________________ NRA Endowment Member, NRA Certified Instructor CWP Holder US Army veteran Gunsmith www.boltandbarrel.com

July 1, 2021, 10:47 AM	#4
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,831	The dowel suggested by MC_1911 is very valid. I'd mask it with an inlaid small brass oval that can be engraved with your initials or some critter. Acraglass it like Clemson suggested. Tape up the areas on the exterior that you don't want Acraglass on and then attach. I'd use a clamp instead of rubber tubing (which will work just as well). __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

July 1, 2021, 12:33 PM	#7
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,831	What tango1niner suggested gives me an idea (a dangerous thing). We used brass rod to make a flower on a stock (flintlock or muzzle loading percussion gun). The stock could be drilled for one larger piece of white metal in the center with decorative (but not so deep) smaller brass rods as petals around it. Flower power! Write your last initial on the white metal and stiple around the letter to customize it too. Then wire inlay around the flower. It would be good if you have one single tooth checkering tool to clean up the lines where the glue/acraglass overflows. Don't want an initial/letter? Put a bleeding heart into the centerpiece. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

July 2, 2021, 01:06 AM	#9
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	Okay, first off, don't use wood glue on a firearm. Wood glue is not generally oil and solvent resistant. Use slow-cure epoxy like Acraglas or West Marine resin epoxy. 2 steps- 1- glue the piece back in place with epoxy 2- pin it in place with a 1/8" hardwood dowel epoxied into a hole drilled from the inside. Don't drill all the way through, it will look like hammered crap. Seal the joint with TruOil or similar. I like to glass bed repairs like those onto the receiver so that there is no flex in the repair area and contact is even across the stock/receiver bedding areas. After it is repaired, make sure the bedding surfaces meet the receiver and make sure the stock draw bolt plate is in its groove in the receiver and the trigger group housing and that the draw bolt is tight. What often happens with BARs is the plate the draw bolt screws into moves because the stock loosens and then the stock moves upwards and breaks. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

July 5, 2021, 11:39 AM	#11
Logs Senior Member Join Date: November 26, 1999 Location: BLUEGRASS STATE KY USA Posts: 1,780	Thanks everyone. I have a buddy who is a woodworker that is going to help me. I don't have any tools / clamps to do the correctly. I shot the rifle this weekend and it shoots really nice so I hope I can figure this out. __________________ NRA LIFE MEMBER

July 1, 2021, 08:22 AM	#1
Logs Senior Member Join Date: November 26, 1999 Location: BLUEGRASS STATE KY USA Posts: 1,780	Wood Stock repair Long story short my Browning BAR GEN 1 stock is busted. I have spoke to Browning and they don't have parts. Checked with Boyds and they make GEN 2 stocks that are narrower than my GEN 1 so those won't work. Found a few on Ebay that were $250-$450 just for the rear stock so pretty expensive. If I just wanted to repair it what should I use to attach it? Certain wood glue, gorilla glue etc? Watched a few youtube vids and some guys goofed it up so don't want to make the same mistakes. Any words of wisdom? I wish I could just buy a Composite Stock and move on, but can't find one. __________________ NRA LIFE MEMBER

July 1, 2021, 09:07 AM	#2
MC 1911 Senior Member Join Date: February 19, 2011 Location: Virginia Posts: 372	Glue & a dowel would be my suggestion.

July 1, 2021, 10:55 AM	#5
eflyguy Senior Member Join Date: January 1, 2021 Posts: 335	With the stock separated from the action, I think a little regular wood glue and masking tape would make that repair virtually invisible. Just make sure it's clean (dust off the mating surfaces) before applying glue. No dowel necessary. Wood glue bonds are stronger than surrounding wood.

July 1, 2021, 12:06 PM	#6
tango1niner Senior Member Join Date: March 5, 2009 Location: NY Posts: 317	I would use clear epoxy or Agra-glass and band or clamp piece in position. Once the epoxy has hardened I would (from the top) drill clearance holes through the glued on piece and into the stock for 2 ea. #10 or #12 brass machine screws and epoxy them in place. Then dress screws flush with top. Some light sanding and a dab of Truoil or varnish and I'm done with that... I would then make sure the seating surface against the receiver is making full contact and tighten up the stock screw guttentight... My repair will be obvious and that is ok with me.

July 1, 2021, 07:09 PM	#8
603Country Senior Member Join Date: January 6, 2011 Location: Thornton, Texas Posts: 3,998	To reduce the chance of the broken chunk ‘drifting’ when you clamp it. I do believe I’d use a dowel. Just using glue may not hold the reattached piece firmly in place. It’s difficult to clamp oddly shaped chunks of wood. A wooden screw type clamp might work pretty well and prevent drift IF applied perfectly.

July 4, 2021, 08:42 AM	#10
bbqncigars Senior Member Join Date: February 1, 2009 Location: Iowa Posts: 525	Scorch for the win! I have successfully repaired a couple of stocks using his technique, although I used a piece of bamboo skewer for a dowel on one repair. No problems over twenty years later. __________________ "Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most." A. Brilliant

July 5, 2021, 03:54 PM	#13
eflyguy Senior Member Join Date: January 1, 2021 Posts: 335	Exactly why a dowel is a dumb idea. .. but he found someone experienced working with wood. I'm relatively sure it'll work out fine. Wood repair isn't exactly a new science.

July 5, 2021, 04:01 PM	#14
Aguila Blanca Staff Join Date: September 25, 2008 Location: CONUS Posts: 18,458	No, a dowel is a very good idea, because it adds a new piece of wood, with the grain running transverse to the plane of failure, to reinforce the repair. The issue isn't whether orr not it's a good idea -- it is -- the issue is how to install a dowel and make it look good. __________________ NRA Life Member / Certified Instructor NRA Chief RSO / CMP RSO 1911 Certified Armorer Jeepaholic

July 5, 2021, 04:13 PM	#15
ms6852 Senior Member Join Date: April 3, 2010 Location: Texas Posts: 1,394	Agree with the wood dowel and epoxy. Line up the broken piece of wood to the stock and secure with masking tape and drill through the masking tape for your dowel. This insure alignment of both holes from the broke piece and the stock. __________________ ONLY TWO DEFINING FORCES HAVE GIVEN UP THEIR LIVES FOR YOU. ONE IS JESUS CHRIST FOR YOUR SOUL AND THE OTHER IS THE AMERICAN SOLDIER FOR YOUR FREEDOM.

July 5, 2021, 07:32 PM	#16
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,831	Aguila Blanca - I would put the pieces together, align then clamp. Then I'd drill a hole for the dowel. Unclamp and separate. Afterward I would apply acraglass to the two pieces and the dowel and join the parts together, inserting the dowel afterward. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

July 5, 2021, 07:58 PM	#17
Pahoo Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2006 Location: IOWA Posts: 8,783	Pin or dowel and Acra-Glas I would dowel it or preferably pin it and most certainly use a tinted Acra-glas and do it in a manner that all you might see, is the glue seam. The only time you would see the pins/dowell is when you pull the stock off. I might even insert a metal bone between both pieces ..... Another point is to understand how this happened. I've seen to many shotgun stock break like this. .... BE Safe!!! __________________ 'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing.

July 7, 2021, 08:33 AM	#20
tango1niner Senior Member Join Date: March 5, 2009 Location: NY Posts: 317	There is a way to dowel with blind holes. I have made and used "transfer buttons". Drill the blind holes a bit "OVERSIZE" in either piece of wood. The transfer button should be a good fit in the hole. Adjust the length of the "POINTED" transfer button so the point just protrudes above the break. Position the other piece and clamp, then remove the piece. The point from the button will leave a mark. Drill OVERSIZE holes in the other piece. Cut the length of the dowel slightly shorter than the depth of holes combined. So now the dowel is slightly shorter than the holes and also smaller in diameter. Fill the holes part way with epoxy and lather up the two pieces being glued. Insert dowels , put pieces together, position and clamp. The dowels will be epoxied in place and encased in epoxy. It is more work but there are no visible holes. Good luck. I make the transfer buttons for this job with no shoulders. Last edited by tango1niner; July 7, 2021 at 12:11 PM.

July 9, 2021, 08:22 PM	#22
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,831	I was not aware of transfer buttons. May need them for a cabinet I'm making. thanks. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

July 9, 2021, 09:48 PM	#23
Aguila Blanca Staff Join Date: September 25, 2008 Location: CONUS Posts: 18,458	I know about transfer buttons, but I regard them as suitable for use when joining two pieces that have smooth, regular surfaces and which can be carefully aligned when transferring the center mark. I can't see any way that a transfer button could be used with any degree of accuracy in this situation. __________________ NRA Life Member / Certified Instructor NRA Chief RSO / CMP RSO 1911 Certified Armorer Jeepaholic

July 10, 2021, 09:06 AM	#24
tango1niner Senior Member Join Date: March 5, 2009 Location: NY Posts: 317	Yep, the buttons are only to get you close. Can you not think of a way to get the alignment close? Think flat surfaces. The length of the button is adjusted so the point can make only the smallest mark. With this in mind maybe re-reading the post might help.

July 10, 2021, 09:34 AM	#25
skywag Senior Member Join Date: February 24, 2011 Posts: 254	I wouldn't dwell on making the joint invisible................only strong. That is a very plain piece of wood.

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