Casting ? for BP wheelguns

okiefarmer · January 3, 2007, 04:18 PM

I have had a Ruger OA for some time, but shoot mostly the projo from the LEE mould cast at 456, I think the mould design was made for this pistol specifically. Although many call it a 44, it shoots 45's. I recently picked up a Remington 1858 New Army in 44. It is truly 44, cylinder mics at .443. I have the casting bug, and a gazzillion ingots of WW, so would like to cast for it. My problems is my perceived pickiness if the looks of balls from the LEE mould that I do have in .31. Does anyone cast with a LYMAN or other brand and what do you think of the ball quality? I have read on this forum of the weakness of the plunger arm on the '58, so will doubtful shoot any conicals. I know, balls ain't that 'spensive, but like they say, staying busy casting keeps me out of the titty bars and such. Just a hobby.

Steve499 · January 3, 2007, 05:59 PM

I like my Lee molds better than the other brands I have even though they do have a few drawbacks. The round balls from my Lee molds come out just fine after the mold comes up to heat. If yours aren't, you may have some oil in the cavity or something like that. I only have one round ball mold that isn't a Lee. It is a Lyman and casts a .575 ball. which is a tad too big for easy loading in my .58 so I don't use it much. It works just fine but gives me more initial rejects than the Lees, I'd say because the steel takes longer to come up to heat.

I have shot several pounds of balls cast from wheel weights from a cap & ball revolver years ago before I knew better. Being harder, wheel weight balls are tougher to seat but if they aren't too much over chamber size they will work. I have one Remington replica I shoot .451 balls from which just barely shaves a tiny rim from the ball. I haven't shot any wheel weight balls from it but some are probably in it's future since I have about three times the amount of alloyed lead as I have of pure lead. There will probably be those who will opine one should not use wheel weight metal to make balls intended for a cap and ball revolver due to the strain they cause on the loading lever. That's all well and good, and I agree pure lead is better but if you've got it, shoot it! The two fragile pins in your Remington's loading lever are easily replaced with something like a small finish nail. Takes about 10 minutes, I just did mine after breaking both pins trying to seat .457 balls in those .449 or so chambers.

Steve

okiefarmer · January 3, 2007, 07:50 PM

Thanks Steve.

I feel the same way about the use of WW in BP. If ya got it, use it. I haven't noticed any problems in the Ruger OA. I definitely don't water drop the ones I use for BP. I do have a fair stash of pure lead, but way more WW. I will look into the LEE ball mould then, they are cheap enough. I thought I was up to proper heat, but I guess those little balls don't add a tremendous amount of BTUs to keep the heat up, so mebee I should work better at keeping it hot after starting to cast.

Thanks again,
Okie out

Gbro · January 3, 2007, 11:29 PM

My lee round ball mold dosn't like anything but pure lead. The spru area of the mold is now damaged.
Stay pure!

January 3, 2007, 04:18 PM	#1
okiefarmer Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 2006 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 381	Casting ? for BP wheelguns I have had a Ruger OA for some time, but shoot mostly the projo from the LEE mould cast at 456, I think the mould design was made for this pistol specifically. Although many call it a 44, it shoots 45's. I recently picked up a Remington 1858 New Army in 44. It is truly 44, cylinder mics at .443. I have the casting bug, and a gazzillion ingots of WW, so would like to cast for it. My problems is my perceived pickiness if the looks of balls from the LEE mould that I do have in .31. Does anyone cast with a LYMAN or other brand and what do you think of the ball quality? I have read on this forum of the weakness of the plunger arm on the '58, so will doubtful shoot any conicals. I know, balls ain't that 'spensive, but like they say, staying busy casting keeps me out of the titty bars and such. Just a hobby.

January 3, 2007, 05:59 PM	#2
Steve499 Senior Member Join Date: December 14, 2004 Location: Central Missouri Posts: 533	I like my Lee molds better than the other brands I have even though they do have a few drawbacks. The round balls from my Lee molds come out just fine after the mold comes up to heat. If yours aren't, you may have some oil in the cavity or something like that. I only have one round ball mold that isn't a Lee. It is a Lyman and casts a .575 ball. which is a tad too big for easy loading in my .58 so I don't use it much. It works just fine but gives me more initial rejects than the Lees, I'd say because the steel takes longer to come up to heat. I have shot several pounds of balls cast from wheel weights from a cap & ball revolver years ago before I knew better. Being harder, wheel weight balls are tougher to seat but if they aren't too much over chamber size they will work. I have one Remington replica I shoot .451 balls from which just barely shaves a tiny rim from the ball. I haven't shot any wheel weight balls from it but some are probably in it's future since I have about three times the amount of alloyed lead as I have of pure lead. There will probably be those who will opine one should not use wheel weight metal to make balls intended for a cap and ball revolver due to the strain they cause on the loading lever. That's all well and good, and I agree pure lead is better but if you've got it, shoot it! The two fragile pins in your Remington's loading lever are easily replaced with something like a small finish nail. Takes about 10 minutes, I just did mine after breaking both pins trying to seat .457 balls in those .449 or so chambers. Steve

January 3, 2007, 07:50 PM	#3
okiefarmer Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 2006 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 381	Thanks Steve. I feel the same way about the use of WW in BP. If ya got it, use it. I haven't noticed any problems in the Ruger OA. I definitely don't water drop the ones I use for BP. I do have a fair stash of pure lead, but way more WW. I will look into the LEE ball mould then, they are cheap enough. I thought I was up to proper heat, but I guess those little balls don't add a tremendous amount of BTUs to keep the heat up, so mebee I should work better at keeping it hot after starting to cast. Thanks again, Okie out

January 3, 2007, 11:29 PM	#4
Gbro Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 2005 Location: Minnesota Posts: 2,084	My lee round ball mold dosn't like anything but pure lead. The spru area of the mold is now damaged. Stay pure!