May 12, 2005, 08:05 AM | #1 |
Member
Join Date: February 10, 2005
Posts: 84
|
How to wrap a patch?
This may sound silly, but I've heard different things about how to correctly use a brass jag, round vs. square patch, etc. Could someone please post pictures/description of the best way to do it? I am cleaning .22 lr pistol/rifle as well as a 357 revolver.
Also, and recommendations on the best gear to do this. I've heard that a dewey coated rod is the way to go... Thanks! |
May 12, 2005, 10:45 AM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 3, 2005
Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
Posts: 817
|
Picture? That's too advanced for me, but I can describe it in mind-numbing detail...
My kit has a little pushy thing for .22 patches. I place the patch at the end of the barrel, and just push it down. Its a nice, tight fit and cleans like a champ. I don't have to wrap the patch, it just does it for me. For larger barrels, on the other hand, I do things the way I vaguely remember seeing my father do it many years ago. I use a square patch, which I fold in half along a diagonal (so its a triangle). Push a corner of this triangle through the hole in my rod and then pull it about a third of the way through. I then pull the folded, pushed-through portion over the bottom of the barrel which sort of forms a sheath around the end of the rod. This works for my 9mm and .45 barrels. It doesn't really work too well in the shotgun, though. It may be wrong, but it works for me. I've been thinking about one of them there fancy boresnakes, though... |
May 12, 2005, 10:48 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 14, 2005
Location: Washougal, Washington. YEHAW!
Posts: 1,872
|
On rifles/pistols, I just set the patch on the bore, and push through with the jag. Almost never run the patch through more than once, unless its just to add lube oil.
Jag works best for the scrubbing patches, the patch puller seems to work best for lubin' since you don't drop your patch and can pull it back through. My cleaning method is simple.. so I'll post it: Usually take the gun apart and clean everything(saving the bore for last), depending on the gun of course. Bore: 1. Stick the brush in solvent. Run the brush through 10-15 times depending on how much I put through the gun and the bullet(lead ones take more..) 2. Wet a patch with solvent, set it on the bore, and push through with jag. 3. Run 4-5 dry patches through 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 till the dry ones come out clean 5. Put the patch puller on the rod, and put 2-3 drops of lube oil on the patch. Run through the bore a few times.
__________________
Romans 12:21 Do not be overcome by evil, but overcome evil with good More CZ M52 info than you can shake a stick at! |
May 12, 2005, 11:37 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 13, 2004
Location: PacWest
Posts: 455
|
I'd say there is no wrong way
I'd say there is no wrong way. I use Dewey rods myself but I've also used Parker Hale (some of the jags were really made for tow), Belding & Mull and lots of others. For pistols I'll use kits that I think may have been original Pachmayr in plain steel which I'm careful to wipe but for rifles I use Dewey coated almost exclusively - 2 rods one with brush one with jag and a Sinclair cradle with rod holders. (again wiping the rod is good - I hadn't noticed how much grit my stainless were picking up until I got some Parker Hale in bright yellow. The Dewey black masks the grit too.
Myself I think I get better results with some patches loose to sponge with solvent and some patches tight to scrub so I may wrap successive patches differently. Then too it depends on what I bought or cut up from rags or gasket punched from rags. I'd say some loose patches is good but at least some of the patches should be so wrapped as to be really tight fit - however that works out with your combination of jag and patch. |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|