Help With 870 Ejector Rivets

Fusion · January 29, 2017, 11:20 PM

Any advice on removing these rivets? Most of the videos online about removing them seem to show them already removed when they start. I tried cutting just the head of the rivet off, but there wasn't enough to peen it again to get the ejector spring to stay on. So I decided to knock the rivet out, but that's been more difficult than it sounds. Are you guys having it cut it down to the ejector, or what is the best way to get it out?

Also, is there anyway to put it back in without the expensive Brownell's staking punches (which look very cheaply made considering they broke in one of the youtube videos).

DPI7800 · January 30, 2017, 08:53 AM

They have to be drilled out.

redrick · January 30, 2017, 12:35 PM

Take a small dremel tool and grind off the rivet from the inside and then knock it out with a small punch , it will come out easy once the rivet has been ground down enough . You will see a line around the rivet when all the penned part has been ground off . Then buy a new ejector , rivets and the staking tools to replace it .

Go slow grinding so you can see what you are doing and don't worry about hurting the old ejector you are going to replace it . Brownells also sells a rivet cutter with the staking tool set .

If you have to buy all of this stuff it will be cheaper to take it to a gunsmith unless you want the tools for the future .

Scorch · January 30, 2017, 07:59 PM

The front rivet has a separate head for the ejector and the ejector rail. The rear rivet just holds the rail in place. Be careful when staking it that you don't crack the ejector rail when staking it or you will be re-doing it.

Goatwhiskers · January 30, 2017, 08:01 PM

It is a two stage rivet, the ejector is staked down, then the ejector spring. You will need the staking tools which do not break when correctly used. The interesting part is that the new rivet head sticks out the side of the frame. Put the rivet in place and before installing the inside parts, scribe a line around the head. You then grind and polish down the head to this line so that it matches the curve of the receiver and finish with cold blue. If you install everything first you will have to grind down the rivet from outside and I guarantee will have to refinish the receiver. GW

Addendum: when setting the new rivit, be sure to back up the head on the outside with something hard so the impact will swell the inside and not set back the outside.

January 29, 2017, 11:20 PM	#1
Fusion Senior Member Join Date: August 13, 2010 Posts: 429	Help With 870 Ejector Rivets Any advice on removing these rivets? Most of the videos online about removing them seem to show them already removed when they start. I tried cutting just the head of the rivet off, but there wasn't enough to peen it again to get the ejector spring to stay on. So I decided to knock the rivet out, but that's been more difficult than it sounds. Are you guys having it cut it down to the ejector, or what is the best way to get it out? Also, is there anyway to put it back in without the expensive Brownell's staking punches (which look very cheaply made considering they broke in one of the youtube videos).

January 30, 2017, 12:35 PM	#3
redrick Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 1,041	Take a small dremel tool and grind off the rivet from the inside and then knock it out with a small punch , it will come out easy once the rivet has been ground down enough . You will see a line around the rivet when all the penned part has been ground off . Then buy a new ejector , rivets and the staking tools to replace it . Go slow grinding so you can see what you are doing and don't worry about hurting the old ejector you are going to replace it . Brownells also sells a rivet cutter with the staking tool set . If you have to buy all of this stuff it will be cheaper to take it to a gunsmith unless you want the tools for the future . Last edited by redrick; January 30, 2017 at 01:37 PM.

January 30, 2017, 07:59 PM	#4
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	The front rivet has a separate head for the ejector and the ejector rail. The rear rivet just holds the rail in place. Be careful when staking it that you don't crack the ejector rail when staking it or you will be re-doing it. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

January 30, 2017, 08:01 PM	#5
Goatwhiskers Senior Member Join Date: April 8, 2009 Location: Batchelor, La. Posts: 579	It is a two stage rivet, the ejector is staked down, then the ejector spring. You will need the staking tools which do not break when correctly used. The interesting part is that the new rivet head sticks out the side of the frame. Put the rivet in place and before installing the inside parts, scribe a line around the head. You then grind and polish down the head to this line so that it matches the curve of the receiver and finish with cold blue. If you install everything first you will have to grind down the rivet from outside and I guarantee will have to refinish the receiver. GW Addendum: when setting the new rivit, be sure to back up the head on the outside with something hard so the impact will swell the inside and not set back the outside. Last edited by Goatwhiskers; January 31, 2017 at 01:37 PM.

January 30, 2017, 08:53 AM	#2
DPI7800 Senior Member Join Date: July 15, 2014 Posts: 208	They have to be drilled out.