Ruger Standard Auto Re-Assembly

dakota.potts · January 25, 2017, 08:30 PM

Took in a family gun to work on in class. Did a complete detail strip where I disassembled everything that wasn't riveted in place. Every pin, spring everything else out of the gun. Every part fully disassembled from the bolt, trigger group and everything else. Did a complete cleaning as the gun desperately needed, having not been cleaned in a couple decades.

Turns out disassembling the thing is a lot easy than getting it back together.

I got most of the bolt group together OK and finally got the magazine catch back in after over an hour of fighting with it.

Now I have to re-install the fire control group and it is a nightmare lining everything up correctly and holding it in place. The design using coil springs for everything instead of flat springs doesn't help at all, as they are a really expletive (of your choosing) to hold in the correct orientation and compress while pushing pins in place. I can get most of the parts together individually but when it comes time to put them all in place (for instance, the safety piece with the hammer assembly with the transfer bar) things get really tight and are difficult to manipulate while trying to line them all up for the pins.

The use of slave pins has helped but not much. Anybody have any hints for how to do this? I looked to see if there were any jigs or anything available but the only thing I can find is the tool for re-assembling the mainspring.

I'm sure I'm missing something here but the gun is giving me fits to get back together and the disassembly books are god-awful at providing guidance for re-assembly. Tips would be much appreciated.

The gun is a Ruger auto 1976 bi-centennial edition with a 4 3/4" barrel. I don't know if it is a MK. I or not but it lacks the separate bolt hold open feature.

Dufus · January 25, 2017, 08:48 PM

I have one of those purchased in 1975 with a 6" barrel.

If you need some directions, Ruger has some excellent instructions on their website.

You do it a couple of times, it gets easier, but you are correct, they are tricky and in a class of their own.

Here is the link and start on page 9.

https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/markI.pdf

Oliver Sudden · January 25, 2017, 11:36 PM

You're in a gunsmithing school and they won't help you? Ask an instructor and expect good help. I went to Colorado School of Trades for gunsmithing and soon learned you have to ask for help. That's what you pay for.

Sevens · January 25, 2017, 11:55 PM

If you don't get better solutions, try visiting the Volquartsen website. I put the Volq parts in my Mark II and the info they included with the parts led me right through it -- these same instructions may be available from them.

Scorch · January 28, 2017, 04:37 AM

Not to sound pedantic, but you need to learn how to reassemble a Ruger semi-auto 22 pistol before you get out of gunsmithing school. You would be surprised how many times you will use that skill in the trade. And you don't need slave pins, just use the pins that are part of the gun.

Put the sear in first. Put the trigger in, put in the return spring, than bring the trigger bar down to hold that in. Put the safety in the gun, move the sear forward, insert the hammer pin just enough to hold the safety lever in place, then set the safety to hold the sear in place. Put the hammer bushing through the hammer, put the trigger bar around the end of the bushing, and line up the holes using the hammer to line up the holes. Push the hammer pin into place. Make sure the hammer pivots freely and the trigger bar moves and resets. Put the grips on. Put the upper on. Put the takedown pin in place, making sure the hammer strut is on the mainspring before closing the latch.

AzShooter · January 28, 2017, 05:00 AM

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...=0&FORM=VDQVAP

This is the best video I found to help me assemble my Ruger.

dakota.potts · January 28, 2017, 01:16 PM

Not pedantic at all, Scorch. I agree with you that I need to know how to do it, I figured that there was a somewhat simple method I was missing. I will try your instructions and hopefully be back to let you know I got it

Slopemeno · January 28, 2017, 03:32 PM

You need to learn how to do the flip: http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/Index.htm

The only part that made me curse out loud was the mag release.

A cool part of Ruger's design is that it's a breeze to put things like concealed takeup and overtravel stops in the trigger.

Mobuck · January 29, 2017, 09:06 AM

"Anybody have any hints for how to do this?"

D O N 'T

FITASC · January 29, 2017, 09:27 AM

AzShooter - I got a message saying that video is no longer available

James K · January 29, 2017, 03:19 PM

I hate to break the news, but the Ruger (even the latest type with all the goodies) is not that hard to dis/re-assemble. If you consider the Ruger a tough one, please don't take apart a Campo-Giro.

Jim

dakota.potts · January 29, 2017, 04:05 PM

There's no doubt that it's probably a question of inexperience. I am far more used to machining things than I am assembling small parts. Going over it in my head, I believe I may have captured the sear spring in the wrong orientation with regards to the sear so I'll take a look at it tomorrow and see if it's easier with a fresh look.

dakota.potts · January 30, 2017, 12:49 PM

I got to look at the gun again today and it stumped me for a while until I began thinking critically about the orientation of the sear in relation to everything else. Compressing the sear spring and holding it in the right orientation while aligning the other parts seems to be thE key I was missing. The gun is back together and working now. Thanks for the help

Slopemeno · January 31, 2017, 10:40 AM

How about Mossberg Model 500 trigger groups?

Dixie Gunsmithing · February 2, 2017, 10:33 PM

dakota.potts,

When you get a chance, you should try to buy a complete set of the NRA and Gun Digest assembly and disassembly books, unless the course supplies them for you. They have some of the best written instructions on firearms that all of us have used over the years. Another source for the tricks of the trade are the Brownell's Gunsmith Kinks books. There are also the AGI assembly/disassembly videos, and Brownell's Encyclopedia of Modern Firearms , which has several of the factory and military gunsmithing manuals in it. The encyclopedia has the complete Winchester and Remington factory manuals up to the 1980s.

dakota.potts · February 3, 2017, 09:32 AM

DG, I was actually reading through the Gun Digest book and while it was great for disassembly, it gave little in the way of getting the gun back together. I never thought to look at gunsmith kinks for that but I will the next time I get stuck and I will definitely look into the other books recommended

RickB · February 3, 2017, 11:24 AM

I got a really good deal on a Ruger Mk. III, shot it twice, and sold it.
Even after watching four instructional youtube videos I needed a rubber mallet to get the thing back together.
I'd remembered my dad borrowing one from a buddy, forty years ago, and having the same hassle with putting back together.
Being good at reassembling them could be a niche business!

T. O'Heir · February 3, 2017, 01:46 PM

S'why everybody says don't take 'em apart. Aside from not needing to be disassembled that far for any kind of cleaning, they're a nightmare to get back together. I found the trick is the right amount of jiggling and wiggling the bolt stop pin. Did it long ago. Still don't know how.
"...complete set of the NRA and Gun Digest assembly and disassembly books..." Absolutely. Worth every cent. Most smithies spend a great deal more time reading than using a hammer.

eastbank · February 3, 2017, 06:04 PM

i once bought a early standard .22 auto in a cigar box in bits and pieces for 25.00 and after working off and on for a week i got it together that was in the late 60,s. i own and shoot three of the ruger .22 auto,s and feel no need to take them down to bits and pieces to keep them clean and running. eastbank.

dakota.potts · February 3, 2017, 08:52 PM

No way I will ever take one down to that level again unless a specific issue requires it. School policy requires a complete take down of every piece possible to learn the skills necessary. After seeing how it breaks down, I think every part of it can be effectively cleaned without removing to that level

The bolt stop pin actually doesn't give me trouble anymore. Takes me about 30 seconds to align the pin and hammer strut and re insert the takedown housing. For me the difficulty was in keeping all of the fire control group components aligned and bundled during installation

Scorch · February 3, 2017, 08:54 PM

I got my first Ruger Standard Auto from an old trapper in Nevada in 1981. It was an early red eagle pistol, 4-digit serial number. I couldn't even begin to guess how many rounds had been fired through it before I got it, but it was the most inaccurate pistol I ever owned. I traded it straight across for a Ruger Mark II Government Target model in about 1988. The guy wanted it so bad he gave me a new in the box gun for that old piece. I thought I was the best barterer in the world (until I found out what the pistol was worth a few years later

).

HiBC · February 4, 2017, 10:04 AM

Haven't done one in many years.Seems like it matters if the hammer is cocked before you put the bolt stop in and rock the what?strut and mainspring in with the takedown catch doohickey?I don't remember,cocked or uncocked,but if it doesn't work,do it the other way.

OK,just looked.There are several vids on youtube.You can often find answers there

January 25, 2017, 08:30 PM	#1
dakota.potts Senior Member Join Date: February 25, 2013 Location: Keystone Heights, Florida Posts: 3,084	Ruger Standard Auto Re-Assembly Took in a family gun to work on in class. Did a complete detail strip where I disassembled everything that wasn't riveted in place. Every pin, spring everything else out of the gun. Every part fully disassembled from the bolt, trigger group and everything else. Did a complete cleaning as the gun desperately needed, having not been cleaned in a couple decades. Turns out disassembling the thing is a lot easy than getting it back together. I got most of the bolt group together OK and finally got the magazine catch back in after over an hour of fighting with it. Now I have to re-install the fire control group and it is a nightmare lining everything up correctly and holding it in place. The design using coil springs for everything instead of flat springs doesn't help at all, as they are a really expletive (of your choosing) to hold in the correct orientation and compress while pushing pins in place. I can get most of the parts together individually but when it comes time to put them all in place (for instance, the safety piece with the hammer assembly with the transfer bar) things get really tight and are difficult to manipulate while trying to line them all up for the pins. The use of slave pins has helped but not much. Anybody have any hints for how to do this? I looked to see if there were any jigs or anything available but the only thing I can find is the tool for re-assembling the mainspring. I'm sure I'm missing something here but the gun is giving me fits to get back together and the disassembly books are god-awful at providing guidance for re-assembly. Tips would be much appreciated. The gun is a Ruger auto 1976 bi-centennial edition with a 4 3/4" barrel. I don't know if it is a MK. I or not but it lacks the separate bolt hold open feature. __________________ Certified Gunsmith (On Hiatus) Certified Armorer - H&K and Glock Among Others You can find my writings at my website, pottsprecision.com.

January 25, 2017, 11:55 PM	#4
Sevens Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 11,756	If you don't get better solutions, try visiting the Volquartsen website. I put the Volq parts in my Mark II and the info they included with the parts led me right through it -- these same instructions may be available from them. __________________ *Attention Brass rats and other reloaders:* I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.

January 28, 2017, 04:37 AM	#5
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	Not to sound pedantic, but you need to learn how to reassemble a Ruger semi-auto 22 pistol before you get out of gunsmithing school. You would be surprised how many times you will use that skill in the trade. And you don't need slave pins, just use the pins that are part of the gun. Put the sear in first. Put the trigger in, put in the return spring, than bring the trigger bar down to hold that in. Put the safety in the gun, move the sear forward, insert the hammer pin just enough to hold the safety lever in place, then set the safety to hold the sear in place. Put the hammer bushing through the hammer, put the trigger bar around the end of the bushing, and line up the holes using the hammer to line up the holes. Push the hammer pin into place. Make sure the hammer pivots freely and the trigger bar moves and resets. Put the grips on. Put the upper on. Put the takedown pin in place, making sure the hammer strut is on the mainspring before closing the latch. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services Last edited by Scorch; January 28, 2017 at 04:45 AM.

January 28, 2017, 01:16 PM	#7
dakota.potts Senior Member Join Date: February 25, 2013 Location: Keystone Heights, Florida Posts: 3,084	Not pedantic at all, Scorch. I agree with you that I need to know how to do it, I figured that there was a somewhat simple method I was missing. I will try your instructions and hopefully be back to let you know I got it __________________ Certified Gunsmith (On Hiatus) Certified Armorer - H&K and Glock Among Others You can find my writings at my website, pottsprecision.com.

January 29, 2017, 09:27 AM	#10
FITASC Senior Member Join Date: December 6, 2014 Posts: 6,441	AzShooter - I got a message saying that video is no longer available __________________ "I believe that people have a right to decide their own destinies; people own themselves. I also believe that, in a democracy, government exists because (and only so long as) individual citizens give it a 'temporary license to exist'—in exchange for a promise that it will behave itself. In a democracy, you own the government—it doesn't own you."- Frank Zappa

January 25, 2017, 08:48 PM	#2
Dufus Senior Member Join Date: December 10, 2014 Posts: 1,965	I have one of those purchased in 1975 with a 6" barrel. If you need some directions, Ruger has some excellent instructions on their website. You do it a couple of times, it gets easier, but you are correct, they are tricky and in a class of their own. Here is the link and start on page 9. https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/markI.pdf

January 25, 2017, 11:36 PM	#3
Oliver Sudden Senior Member Join Date: January 7, 2017 Location: Colorado Posts: 272	You're in a gunsmithing school and they won't help you? Ask an instructor and expect good help. I went to Colorado School of Trades for gunsmithing and soon learned you have to ask for help. That's what you pay for.

January 28, 2017, 05:00 AM	#6
AzShooter Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2006 Location: Surprise, Az. Posts: 766	http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...=0&FORM=VDQVAP This is the best video I found to help me assemble my Ruger.

January 28, 2017, 03:32 PM	#8
Slopemeno Senior Member Join Date: January 19, 2007 Posts: 2,663	You need to learn how to do the flip: http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/Index.htm The only part that made me curse out loud was the mag release. A cool part of Ruger's design is that it's a breeze to put things like concealed takeup and overtravel stops in the trigger.

January 29, 2017, 09:06 AM	#9
Mobuck Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2010 Posts: 6,846	"Anybody have any hints for how to do this?" D O N 'T

January 29, 2017, 03:19 PM	#11
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	I hate to break the news, but the Ruger (even the latest type with all the goodies) is not that hard to dis/re-assemble. If you consider the Ruger a tough one, please don't take apart a Campo-Giro. Jim

January 29, 2017, 04:05 PM	#12
dakota.potts Senior Member Join Date: February 25, 2013 Location: Keystone Heights, Florida Posts: 3,084	There's no doubt that it's probably a question of inexperience. I am far more used to machining things than I am assembling small parts. Going over it in my head, I believe I may have captured the sear spring in the wrong orientation with regards to the sear so I'll take a look at it tomorrow and see if it's easier with a fresh look. __________________ Certified Gunsmith (On Hiatus) Certified Armorer - H&K and Glock Among Others You can find my writings at my website, pottsprecision.com.

January 30, 2017, 12:49 PM	#13
dakota.potts Senior Member Join Date: February 25, 2013 Location: Keystone Heights, Florida Posts: 3,084	I got to look at the gun again today and it stumped me for a while until I began thinking critically about the orientation of the sear in relation to everything else. Compressing the sear spring and holding it in the right orientation while aligning the other parts seems to be thE key I was missing. The gun is back together and working now. Thanks for the help __________________ Certified Gunsmith (On Hiatus) Certified Armorer - H&K and Glock Among Others You can find my writings at my website, pottsprecision.com.

January 31, 2017, 10:40 AM	#14
Slopemeno Senior Member Join Date: January 19, 2007 Posts: 2,663	How about Mossberg Model 500 trigger groups?

February 2, 2017, 10:33 PM	#15
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	dakota.potts, When you get a chance, you should try to buy a complete set of the NRA and Gun Digest assembly and disassembly books, unless the course supplies them for you. They have some of the best written instructions on firearms that all of us have used over the years. Another source for the tricks of the trade are the Brownell's Gunsmith Kinks books. There are also the AGI assembly/disassembly videos, and Brownell's Encyclopedia of Modern Firearms , which has several of the factory and military gunsmithing manuals in it. The encyclopedia has the complete Winchester and Remington factory manuals up to the 1980s.

February 3, 2017, 09:32 AM	#16
dakota.potts Senior Member Join Date: February 25, 2013 Location: Keystone Heights, Florida Posts: 3,084	DG, I was actually reading through the Gun Digest book and while it was great for disassembly, it gave little in the way of getting the gun back together. I never thought to look at gunsmith kinks for that but I will the next time I get stuck and I will definitely look into the other books recommended __________________ Certified Gunsmith (On Hiatus) Certified Armorer - H&K and Glock Among Others You can find my writings at my website, pottsprecision.com.

February 3, 2017, 11:24 AM	#17
RickB Senior Member Join Date: March 1, 2000 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 8,518	I got a really good deal on a Ruger Mk. III, shot it twice, and sold it. Even after watching four instructional youtube videos I needed a rubber mallet to get the thing back together. I'd remembered my dad borrowing one from a buddy, forty years ago, and having the same hassle with putting back together. Being good at reassembling them could be a niche business! __________________ Runs off at the mouth about anything 1911 related on this site and half the time is flat out wrong.

February 3, 2017, 01:46 PM	#18
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	S'why everybody says don't take 'em apart. Aside from not needing to be disassembled that far for any kind of cleaning, they're a nightmare to get back together. I found the trick is the right amount of jiggling and wiggling the bolt stop pin. Did it long ago. Still don't know how. "...complete set of the NRA and Gun Digest assembly and disassembly books..." Absolutely. Worth every cent. Most smithies spend a great deal more time reading than using a hammer. __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

February 3, 2017, 06:04 PM	#19
eastbank Senior Member Join Date: February 7, 2008 Location: pa. Posts: 2,450	i once bought a early standard .22 auto in a cigar box in bits and pieces for 25.00 and after working off and on for a week i got it together that was in the late 60,s. i own and shoot three of the ruger .22 auto,s and feel no need to take them down to bits and pieces to keep them clean and running. eastbank.

February 3, 2017, 08:52 PM	#20
dakota.potts Senior Member Join Date: February 25, 2013 Location: Keystone Heights, Florida Posts: 3,084	No way I will ever take one down to that level again unless a specific issue requires it. School policy requires a complete take down of every piece possible to learn the skills necessary. After seeing how it breaks down, I think every part of it can be effectively cleaned without removing to that level The bolt stop pin actually doesn't give me trouble anymore. Takes me about 30 seconds to align the pin and hammer strut and re insert the takedown housing. For me the difficulty was in keeping all of the fire control group components aligned and bundled during installation __________________ Certified Gunsmith (On Hiatus) Certified Armorer - H&K and Glock Among Others You can find my writings at my website, pottsprecision.com.

February 3, 2017, 08:54 PM	#21
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	I got my first Ruger Standard Auto from an old trapper in Nevada in 1981. It was an early red eagle pistol, 4-digit serial number. I couldn't even begin to guess how many rounds had been fired through it before I got it, but it was the most inaccurate pistol I ever owned. I traded it straight across for a Ruger Mark II Government Target model in about 1988. The guy wanted it so bad he gave me a new in the box gun for that old piece. I thought I was the best barterer in the world (until I found out what the pistol was worth a few years later ). __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

February 4, 2017, 10:04 AM	#22
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,283	Haven't done one in many years.Seems like it matters if the hammer is cocked before you put the bolt stop in and rock the what?strut and mainspring in with the takedown catch doohickey?I don't remember,cocked or uncocked,but if it doesn't work,do it the other way. OK,just looked.There are several vids on youtube.You can often find answers there Last edited by HiBC; February 4, 2017 at 10:16 AM.