Once You Have the Hardware, How Do You Get Started In Handloading? (i.e., "Recipes")

[Mothdust]

Hi, All. I'm new here. I apologize for asking a question that may be answered elsewhere, but maybe it's a good one to re-ask for other people thinking about getting started in handloading.

This question never seems to get addressed in all the articles and youtube videos I've watched. Even the Lee Loading Manual skips over this.

Besides the equipment,

Where does one start? I'm talking about bullets & powder.

To be honest, I'm not particularly interested in the intricacies of ballistics beyond what does/doesn't work and why. I'm not smart enough to experiment in this endeavor, or reinvent this wheel. I just want to be able to handload reliably so I can practice more often. Eventually, I want to carry concealed. But first: Practice.

I do know there are several variables involved in dealing with whatever caliber I plan to reload (9mm & 40 cal):

• Bullet grain size.
• Velocity of bullet.
• Powder type and powder manufacturer.
• What reportedly/anecdotally works best in my firearm (Walther PPQ 9mm, Walther PPS 40 cal.)
• The idiosyncrasies of the caliber I'm loading (e.g., 40 cal).
• What reportedly seems to be the most accurate recipe.
• What type of factory load I wish to approximate that I'll eventually use as a CC round (more reading on that to come)

So, with this in mind, where exactly does one start? Do I just buy various bullet sizes and adjust powder load vs. grain size (per the charts), take notes, then decide what works best for me/my firearms?

Or do I start with the powder, then get bullets? And how does one decide on a powder? By the type? By the manufacturer's reputation? By the versatility between grain sizes & calibers? By the fact that Cabelas had it on the shelf the day I drove out there and it was a type that appeared several times in the load data tables in the Lee Loading Manual?

Seriously. I have no idea.



Am I overthinking this? Under-thinking it? Is there another book I should read? A thread I missed?

I appreciate any feedback on this and hope that it may be of help to others like me who are Really Interested in Reloading, but not Super Interested in the Minutiae*.


*Please know that I fully understand the seriousness of handloading. That's part of the reason I'm asking these questions--to determine if it requires a level of inquisitiveness of the art that is beyond me.

[jimbob86]

You seem overwhelmed by all the variables.

Q: How does a bird eat an elephant?

A: Why, one bite at a time, of course!

Get a reloading manual, and read the "process" and cautions parts ..... read the instructions that came with your equipment. Read the load data, select a load, and (as per cautions in the manual) start at the start load, and work up until you either have what works for you or you hit max load.

I'd recommend a single stage press, and work up small batches- say 10 or 20 rounds, one operation (sizing, trimming (if necessary), expanding the case mouth (if doing straightwalled pistol cases), priming, charging, seating and crimping (if necessary) at a time .....

It really is not rocket science. Just follow the instructions and heed the warnings/cautions ..... simple stuff, just a lot of attention to detail.

If I understand you, you are not interested (at this time) with building the perfect beast, you just want to learn to reload ..... what are you reloading for, exactly?

[Mr_Raw]

When I started reloading I tried to duplicate my favorite factory round first and from there I branched out trying different powders, and then different weight bullets.

just remember to be patient when reloading, and even more patient when developing new loads.

[BigD_in_FL]

There are no shortcuts to knowledge without the possibility of pain and suffering so RTFM; in fact read several of them, then cross check with the current load data form the powder maker websites

[bedbugbilly]

A good reloading manual is a "must have" - There are many out there - Speers, Hornady, Lee, Lyman . . .

A lot of your questions/concerns will be addressed in a manual - read the sections on reloading for handguns . . . that will explain a lot from bullets to primers to powder and the principles behind the data that you will be referring to in regards to minimum and maximum powder loads, etc.

I've been shooting for over 50 years and just recently got in to reloading for pistol . . . anyone can reload but you need to get the "basics" down . . . it's not a case of "I have all the equipment" and now you "fly by the seat of your pants". You need to know the "why" and the "why not" of doing things as an error can not only destroy your handgun . . but your hand and the person standing next to you as well.

Based on my own experience . . . get a manual and read it . . . you'll have questions afterwards and this is the place to get the answers . . . lots of experienced and knowledgeable folks here willing to help someone who is new to reloading.

Good luck . . .

[MarkDozier]

Simple process
1. Get a bullet you like
2. pick a load from the manual
3. get the powder
4. Make small batches
5. Test fire and make lots of testing notes
6. If you like the load use it

[Nick_C_S]

Everybody's responses are good. I do want to add that any round that's "balanced" will be reasonably accurate (in the pistol world - rifles are different). So if you load rounds with the right powder speed for the bullet weight for the gun barrel length, accuracy will come along for the ride.

Now I want to narrow it down a little. . .

On the 9mm, I believe ballistically, the 124g bullets are the best choice. With the 40's, the 165g bullets are the best (I don't load 40 Cal).

With these bullet weights, for medium-high to full-power rounds, I recommend medium speed powders. Accurate Arms #5; Ramshot Silhouette; Ramshot True Blue; Alliant Power Pistol; Alliant Unique; & Hodgdon HS-6; are all excellent choices for these bullet weights (heavier bullets generally like slower powders; and lighter bullets generally like faster powders - just a general loading rule that is good to keep in your back pocket).

For practice, you can use pretty much any plated or jacketed bullet of the above mentioned weights to get used to loading. I'd stay away from lead bullets for now because a beginner loader doesn't need to deal with leading problems (and both 9mm and 40 cal are prone to leading). So let's just leave the lead bullets be for now.

Right now, component availability is a big problem - especially powder.

Do you have brass?

You're already on the right track: You have a plan to load some decent ammo that's reliable and accurate. And you don't want to "reinvent the wheel."

Time to go find some components.

[Jay24bal]

Simple process
1. Get a bullet you like
2. pick a load from the manual
3. get the powder
4. Make small batches
5. Test fire and make lots of testing notes
6. If you like the load use it

Nailed it.

The only addition I would add is to further expand upon #1. When choosing the bullet, pick the same weight bullet you normally shoot factory loads of (it will be labeled on the box, most likely 115 gr or 124 gr for the 9mm and 165 or 180 gr for the 40 S&W).

From there, look in the manual and see what you have the most powder options with. For example, most manuals will have more data for FMJ bullets than plated or lead bullets. So identify the weight you would like and then bullet composition you would prefer or had more options. That way you have a variety of options when it comes to finding powders especially as we are still at the tail end of the component shortage. Depending on the weight and bullet you choose, you may even be able to get away with the same powder in both calibers to make it easier as you learn.

Be safe, and come back often as a lot of good information can be found here (the search function is your friend).

[Mothdust]

Thanks, Everyone, for your responses.

Nick_C_S, you nailed it. That's pretty much what I was looking for: A starting point with reference to certain grains, in certain calibers, with certain powders, with some perspective on the process.

As jimbob86 said,

"Q: How does a bird eat an elephant?
A: Why, one bite at a time, of course!"

That was a good first bite.

What Nick_C_S said may seem obvious to those who have been handloading for a while, but it's a huge help for a beginner like me (who sweats the small stuff) in order to get the ball rolling. I recognize that such knowledge does not come cheap. Thanks again.

[Mothdust]

Jay24bal--

Also very good!

As I suspected, it's not necessarily a linear process. Sometimes you need to be practical or flexible, as particular or desired components are not necessarily available.

So, in times like these, perhaps it's not a bad idea for a beginner to take his loading manual to the local sporting goods store, see what powders are available, compare them to the manual, cross-reference with each caliber he plans to load, and come up with a game plan to get the most bang for his buck.

[serf 'rett]

What bullets or powder can you get? You'll need primers too. Your choices may be limited to what you can find.

Do you know someone who reloads? They might help you get started.

I like the Lyman manual feature of showing good loads in bold print.

[Nick_C_S]

Thanks Mothdust. We're all here to help.

Like most of us, component shortages are going to be your biggest headache.

I mentioned 124's and 165's as the best choices. If all you can find are 115's for the 9mm, or 180's for the 40, go ahead and pick them up (Berry's plated 180's seem to be rather abundant). I personally don't think they're ideal, but we'd make 'em into good shooters. We loaders have learned how to adapt these days.

[Jay24bal]

So, in times like these, perhaps it's not a bad idea for a beginner to take his loading manual to the local sporting goods store, see what powders are available, compare them to the manual, cross-reference with each caliber he plans to load, and come up with a game plan to get the most bang for his buck.

Can't hurt to go this route. Luckily the two calibers you are preparing to load have A LOT of options so it should not be too hard to find a good combination. The process is not overly complicated, it just takes time and attention to detail while figuring out what will work best for you and your firearms.

[jimbob86]

perhaps it's not a bad idea for a beginner to take his loading manual to the local sporting goods store, see what powders are available, compare them to the manual, cross-reference with each caliber he plans to load, and come up with a game plan to get the most bang for his buck.

"First, Have a Plan."

You have the first step taken. Now that other foot ......

What Nick_C_S said may seem obvious to those who have been handloading for a while,

We've all been there, I think ...... at least I have: I walked into a small reloading shop (Before I got AlGores Internetz) and asked what it would take to get into reloading ...... the owner looked at me like I had asked what I needed to walk and chew gum at the same time ..... he was less than helpful .....

So I wandered into a Cabela's after a deer hunting trip, saw a Lee Kit, bought it and some .270WIN dies, a pound of H414, a box of 100 Hornady 130gr Interlocks and a brick of Large Rifle Primers ..... the kit had a manual in it and I read it ...... and realized I needed some way to trim cases (the case length guage dealy was not in the kit- it is caliber specific and the kit is not) ..... another trip to a local shop, and I made some rounds ..... I was hooked.

[Nick_C_S]

I had the good fortune of having a mentor (this is 1984). I hardly knew the guy; he was a coworker of my brother, and he helped me with everything I threw at him. Great guy. I was kind of young and self-centered back then (I like to think I've changed a little); I actually have more appreciation now for what he did for me, then I did back then.

Point is, there is no substitute for a hands-on mentor. I know, I consider myself lucky that way.

[DannyB1954]

I am also new at reloading. I chose a LEE Classic turret press because I can easily disable the auto index feature, and run the press as a single stage press getting every die set correctly. After I get things ironed out, I will use it as a multi stage press. Here are a few links that I found helpful with load data. You can also go to the powders manufacturer's site and get load data. One example is Ramshot powder,

http://www.ramshot.com/wp-content/up...pec_7-2-13.pdf

http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp
Click on I agree, then choose cartridge or shot shell loads,Then choose load type, (rifle or hand gun), then caliber, then click get data. Then you can filter your list by manufacturer, bullet weight, or powder type. After choosing your filters, click on get data again. The screen will refresh with just what you wanted.

http://handloads.com/loaddata/defaul...=&Type=Handgun

I always try to cross reference a load in several places before making a decision.

[Louca]

Hi Mothdust and welcome to the infinitely variable world of reloading! Great advice has been given so far, to which I cannot add much. But I want to mention that consulting with others (as you are doing here) is invaluable. True, some advice can be bogus or questionable. But if you get a large enough sample of opinions, you will see some commonality and can start there.

I have been reloading for almost 30 years and I recently had to develop a load for IDPA, whereas before that I had shot mostly light target loads. I felt like you do, and needed advice as to where to start. About the only components I knew I would use were the brass casing and primer. Through lots of inquiry, people here and on THR forum helped me get a load worked up.

It may be tempting to get started quickly on loading something up and shooting it. But I would advise taking your time and listening to all experiences people have had and consider them as you establish a load. Some folks have gone to great lengths in developing their load and you can benefit from that.

Lou

[Guilty]

Mothdust, as others have said, take it in small bites.
Let's start with 9mm.
Things to consider about choosing a reloading bullet and powder for new reloaders.
Are you reloading for practice, competition or defensive ammunition?
Let's assume practice ammunition...
What is the most common bullet size for 9MM? Probably 124 grain
Why use 124 grain bullet? Low recoil, readily available
FMJ, Plated or Lead? FMJ, because it is easy for beginners to find load data and hard to screw up FMJ bullets
What is the most common powder used? Probably Winchester 231 or Hodgdon HP-38 (these are widely considered to be the same powder)
Are there other popular bullet sizes and other popular brands of powder that work well with 9MM? Yes, True Blue, Silhouette, Power Pistol, Bullseye, Unique and others
Reloading is all about safe experimentation. Choose a bullet that you think will suit your needs, choose a powder that you think will work well, carefully work up your loads by testing while keeping variables to a minimum, shoot your reloaded ammunition, and record your results, repeat if necessary to confirm your results. Once you have a bullet/powder combination that works well with your weapon, load enough ammunition to defend against the Zombie armageddon with your awesome reloads.

[WESHOOT2]

First I decide on the specific goal for my ammo; what specific work do I want the bullet to do?

I pick a bullet known for delivering the results I seek.

Target?
Hunting?
Civilian / LE / military personal defense?

After I pick the bullet I check my data (man I gotta lotta data) to help me determine what powders work best for my goal; I pick powders in the middle range of 'burn rate' based on the choices data shows.

When in doubt I use W231 / Universal / Unique / Power Pistol.
These powders work in virtually all handgun cartridges when MAXIMUM VELOCITY is not required.


Then other stuff; you'll gain experience and (hopefully) learn for yourself.

[CWKahrFan]

FWIW, I've found that Hodgdon HS-6 and Alliant Power Pistol are VERY similar and versatile and it's usually not TOO hard to find one or the other...

(I have a slight preference for PP.)

[Nick_C_S]

I've found that Hodgdon HS-6 and Alliant Power Pistol are VERY similar

Welllll, yes. And no. They are definitely in the same "speed zone." But their personalities are very different.

HS-6 is a flattened spherical powder. It is difficult to ignite and doesn't like to be underloaded at all. And it will tell you by leaving behind a sand-like residue. But it is very clean when loaded up real good - it's at its best starting about 3/4+ the way up the load scale or so. As you work the recipe up, it's pressure is very linear and forgiving. It makes great, consistent rounds, but often not the top performer among its "peer powders" (Power Pistol being one of them).

Power Pistol on the other hand, is a flake powder that ignites quite easily. It operates clean over a wide window, generally. It's pressure curve is not so linear and can pressure spike with little warning. It's a highly energetic powder and I consider it a powder for the advanced loader. On the plus side, it's really good at delivering high velocities. It can really move a bullet.

I like both. And I consider their speed range virtually the same; but that's where the similarities end.

[pathdoc]

Questions to ask yourself and points of advice (I reload for rifle only, but the principle is similar):

1) What (or God forbid, whom, if this is a self-defence load* and it ever comes down to that) are you planning to shoot?

2) Seek out advice for a good projectile (in each calibre) to do the job. If it's all much of a muchness or you get confused or overwhelmed, pick one in middle-weight in both calibres that's easily available in large numbers at a price you can afford. This is important when the time comes to buy more bullets (as I have discovered more than once). This is a good starting point. You can move on to ultra-heavy or ultra-light bullets later.

3) Take the advice of everyone else who's replied before me, as to which powders might be "trickier" than others. Within these limits...

4) If you've gone with one of the well-known name brands (Speer, Hornady, etc.) regarding projectiles, buy the specific reloading manual produced by that company (or look at a friend's, if they have the current edition).

5) If I were flying blind as regards powder choice, with no advice at all, I'd look at that reloading manual (or those reloading manuals, if you have more than one) and try to pick out the powder that suited the broadest range of projectiles for all calibres that I shoot (part of the reason why some people say you cannot have too many reloading manuals). I'd go with that to start, if for no other reason than to keep things simple. You can learn the important business of actually assembling functioning ammunition with that first powder and Mr Average Middleweight Projectile and then branch out and try other brands later, as you gain experience and confidence. (That being said, availability is a very important factor. Photocopy the pages in the manuals and take them plus some highlighting pens with you to the store, and study the shelves.)

6) Follow the instructions in the loading manuals, start at minimum (going back there if you change primer or projectile type or brand of case) and work up slowly and carefully.

7) Once you've shot your way through a couple of boxes of your own handloads, believe me, you will feel a lot better about all of this.

8) Start off with SMALL amounts of everything that you try. It's true that buying in bulk volume = economy and consistency when you find something that works really well, but you don't want to be stuck at the start with 8lb of powder or a box of a thousand bullets that gives you godawful performance in your firearms.

9) Keep careful notes of everything you do and how it worked out. Buy yourself a small notebook or diary for each firearm and possibly another for your load development, detailing what you loaded (how much powder, which primer, what brand case, what projectile) on such-and-such a day and how it worked out in the guns function-wise. Also note down any troubles or frustrations you had while reloading, any screw-ups you made or potential areas for improvement even if everything went okay, and what you did (or might do next time) to correct or improve them. Make sure all your ammo boxes are carefully labelled with what's in them. Big white sticky labels with this info are great, and some makers supply them with the projectiles they sell, with prompts for all the important info (Sierra's are particularly good IMO - their format bears copying).

Hope this helps.

* = There are those who advise specifically NOT to use handloaded ammo for self-defence, as this supposedly offers adversarial anti-gun lawyers an extra opportunity to hamstring you. I'm mentioning the point here to make you aware of it, not to start a debate - ultimately what you do is your decision after the appropriate research.

[CWKahrFan]

Thanks for that input, Nick... It was very educational for me...

[Nick_C_S]

You're welcome CWKahrFan.

I like Power Pistol for 125g JHP's for 357 Mag. It can make them roar out of a 3" barrel at over 1300 fps - with ease (4" bbl, even better). It really likes making bullets go fast. When I want to turn light bullets into mini-rockets, I reach for the PP.

But because PP can be spikey, I shy away from it with heavy bullets (heavy bullets magnify spikey behavior). With heavy bullets, HS-6 is my go-to. Its more linear behavior gives me some peace of mind when working up heavy bullet recipes. Once you hit HS-6's sweet spot, it burns really clean and is a marvelously consistent performer. I'll gladly give up a few fps for those traits.

[CWKahrFan]

I hear ya'... Makes good sense.