M1924 Sporter - cracking at tang - Page 2

tangolima · March 14, 2016, 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiBC

Tangolima:Please do it your way!!With my respect.We are entitled tour preferences.

Noted. I ain't the one doing it. I'm just one of the talkers here. You questioned, I just explained.

-TL

HiBC · March 14, 2016, 07:29 AM

One more tip,on removing bedding compound.Its been discussed,that may not be epoxy.
I was handed the job of removing Accraglas from the forend of a nice Hi-wall custom rifle for a rebarrel.I really was not enthused about trying to clamp it in the vise of a Bridgeport,Or spending tedious time scraping.
My local "DoIt" hardware store had a paint stripper on the shelf that said it was for aircraft,and would remove aircraft epoxy paint.
I gave it a try,and it removes Accra Glas. FWIW.

F. Guffey · March 14, 2016, 09:26 AM

My opinion the stock pictured is absent of bedding, at best someone went through the motion.

F. Guffey

Nevmavrick · March 17, 2016, 03:35 PM

Tango-Most people that have not been in the military won't understand, but eventhough some military actions have been made into pretty nice custom rifles, they are still military rifles.
Even FN Mausers are still M98 Mausers.
Military rifles are made to be used by soldiers while training.
One thing that soldiers do, is prove to an officer, non-com, or not, that their weapon is not loaded. To do so they are trained to open the action, check the chamber, and close the action. THEN they pull the trigger (dry fire) making a loud noise alerting not only the inspector, everyone within hearing that since there was no shot, the weapon is empty, therefor, safe.
The fact that the rifle is no longer a weapon (used to kill humans) does not alter the fact that it was built to be "abused" in this manner. This action would happen hundreds of thousands to millions of times during the life of the firearm.
If a person wants to baby their rifle it is their rifle.
In this case, a once-fired case with the fired primer, or even a new primer, though there would be a bit more noise, could be used to "protect" the firing pin.
We won't even mention the hundred or so times it would be done while setting a trigger-pull wouldn't bother anything, anyway.
I really don't think a 4.5# pull on a trigger is a target trigger, but that is pure opinion, on my part. My hunting rifles use EXACTLY 2# triggers, but I have quite a bit of trigger time. My target guns have lighter pulls, down to 2.5 oz!
They do take a bit of getting used to.
Have fun,
Gene
(OK, flame away. I've a strong back)

Gregory Gauvin · March 17, 2016, 07:46 PM

Well here is my the work I have performed so far.

I was wrong about the 2 stage trigger. Somebody, must have ground the hump on the trigger a while back. It is a single stage. Needless to say...I measure it at 5lbs and .07oz, consistent. Taken from the center of the trigger, midpoint of where the pad of your finger would be pulling it.

I have an assortment of springs...and everything else you could imagine. I found a spring same length and diameter as the stock spring, but slightly thinner coils. With this trigger/sear spring, I achieved a trigger break at 3 1/4 lbs. 3 Lbs and 5.6oz to be exact. Consistent. No problems with trigger reset. Trigger resets back into it's full position without issue. Any lighter however, trigger reset would be an issue.

I drilled crossbolts for both recoil lug and just forward of trigger. I used 1/8th brass rod, straight through, cut notches in the rod to hold epoxy. I filled the holes solid with epoxy, smeared the rods and tapped them in. They are curing as we speak. I will later cut/grind/sand the protruding ends flush to the wood.

My next step is to remove material at the tang and radius, as the action contacts the wood. I cannot even slip a .015" feeler gauge between the wood and rear of the action tang.

To finish this project up...I have but only two questions.

1.) The barrel is not free floated. Since I'm going through all these lengths...should I free float the barrel while I am at it? I cannot even slide a piece of printer paper between barrel and stock, let alone a dollar bill. Rifle shot good the way it was...should I leave it be, and free float in the future or go ahead and free float it? If so...guys have done this two ways, and I do not know which method is better or preferred. Obviously, remove the material and free float the barrel. Bed rifle as one normally would. But I have seen after the barrel is free floated, when bedding, using blue painter's tape (1 or 2 layers) wrapped around barrel (release agent applied to tape) and the entire length of the stock bedded. After the action removed and tape taken off, the tape created a clearance between the bedding and barrel. Which method would be best?

2.) The crack at the tang in the stock. The crack itself isn't bad, where major surgery and notching and replacement of wood is necessary. Should I drilled a hole at the end of the crack, at an angle, like a wrist pin, and epoxy it in like I did so with the cross bolts? As far as the crack itself...it is not deep, to very large. I'm trying to think of a method of repair to hid the crack, cosmetically, as well as fix it. I know some have repaired minor things like this by filling with shellac or glue, and lightly sanding...using the own sawdust of the sanding to fill in the area.

March 14, 2016, 07:29 AM	#27
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,283	One more tip,on removing bedding compound.Its been discussed,that may not be epoxy. I was handed the job of removing Accraglas from the forend of a nice Hi-wall custom rifle for a rebarrel.I really was not enthused about trying to clamp it in the vise of a Bridgeport,Or spending tedious time scraping. My local "DoIt" hardware store had a paint stripper on the shelf that said it was for aircraft,and would remove aircraft epoxy paint. I gave it a try,and it removes Accra Glas. FWIW.

March 14, 2016, 09:26 AM	#28
F. Guffey Senior Member Join Date: July 18, 2008 Posts: 7,249	My opinion the stock pictured is absent of bedding, at best someone went through the motion. F. Guffey

March 17, 2016, 03:35 PM	#29
Nevmavrick Senior Member Join Date: January 2, 2010 Location: Sparks, Nevada, near Reno Posts: 183	Tango-Most people that have not been in the military won't understand, but eventhough some military actions have been made into pretty nice custom rifles, they are still military rifles. Even FN Mausers are still M98 Mausers. Military rifles are made to be used by soldiers while training. One thing that soldiers do, is prove to an officer, non-com, or not, that their weapon is not loaded. To do so they are trained to open the action, check the chamber, and close the action. THEN they pull the trigger (dry fire) making a loud noise alerting not only the inspector, everyone within hearing that since there was no shot, the weapon is empty, therefor, safe. The fact that the rifle is no longer a weapon (used to kill humans) does not alter the fact that it was built to be "abused" in this manner. This action would happen hundreds of thousands to millions of times during the life of the firearm. If a person wants to baby their rifle it is their rifle. In this case, a once-fired case with the fired primer, or even a new primer, though there would be a bit more noise, could be used to "protect" the firing pin. We won't even mention the hundred or so times it would be done while setting a trigger-pull wouldn't bother anything, anyway. I really don't think a 4.5# pull on a trigger is a target trigger, but that is pure opinion, on my part. My hunting rifles use EXACTLY 2# triggers, but I have quite a bit of trigger time. My target guns have lighter pulls, down to 2.5 oz! They do take a bit of getting used to. Have fun, Gene (OK, flame away. I've a strong back)

March 17, 2016, 07:46 PM	#30
Gregory Gauvin Senior Member Join Date: March 6, 2009 Posts: 368	Well here is my the work I have performed so far. I was wrong about the 2 stage trigger. Somebody, must have ground the hump on the trigger a while back. It is a single stage. Needless to say...I measure it at 5lbs and .07oz, consistent. Taken from the center of the trigger, midpoint of where the pad of your finger would be pulling it. I have an assortment of springs...and everything else you could imagine. I found a spring same length and diameter as the stock spring, but slightly thinner coils. With this trigger/sear spring, I achieved a trigger break at 3 1/4 lbs. 3 Lbs and 5.6oz to be exact. Consistent. No problems with trigger reset. Trigger resets back into it's full position without issue. Any lighter however, trigger reset would be an issue. I drilled crossbolts for both recoil lug and just forward of trigger. I used 1/8th brass rod, straight through, cut notches in the rod to hold epoxy. I filled the holes solid with epoxy, smeared the rods and tapped them in. They are curing as we speak. I will later cut/grind/sand the protruding ends flush to the wood. My next step is to remove material at the tang and radius, as the action contacts the wood. I cannot even slip a .015" feeler gauge between the wood and rear of the action tang. To finish this project up...I have but only two questions. 1.) The barrel is not free floated. Since I'm going through all these lengths...should I free float the barrel while I am at it? I cannot even slide a piece of printer paper between barrel and stock, let alone a dollar bill. Rifle shot good the way it was...should I leave it be, and free float in the future or go ahead and free float it? If so...guys have done this two ways, and I do not know which method is better or preferred. Obviously, remove the material and free float the barrel. Bed rifle as one normally would. But I have seen after the barrel is free floated, when bedding, using blue painter's tape (1 or 2 layers) wrapped around barrel (release agent applied to tape) and the entire length of the stock bedded. After the action removed and tape taken off, the tape created a clearance between the bedding and barrel. Which method would be best? 2.) The crack at the tang in the stock. The crack itself isn't bad, where major surgery and notching and replacement of wood is necessary. Should I drilled a hole at the end of the crack, at an angle, like a wrist pin, and epoxy it in like I did so with the cross bolts? As far as the crack itself...it is not deep, to very large. I'm trying to think of a method of repair to hid the crack, cosmetically, as well as fix it. I know some have repaired minor things like this by filling with shellac or glue, and lightly sanding...using the own sawdust of the sanding to fill in the area.