Tru-Oil problem---

Prince55 · November 25, 2008, 01:39 PM

I just recently bought a new 3oz. bottle of Tru-Oil and after using a small
amount a few times to refinish some Ruger Blackhawk grips noticed that it
has a "gummy" consistency to it.
At first I thought it was the temperature being colder from winter, but I
think it needs thinning as it won't dry to a really smooth finish.
What is the best type of thinner and about what amount ?

Thanks

Pahoo · November 25, 2008, 04:46 PM

I understand that it looks gummy, in the bottle; Right? If so, it's probably because it is too old and to much of the solvents, have evaporated. You can thin it down with Mineral Spirits or paint thinner as basically they are the same. Read the lable. True oil use to come in glass bottles and now in plastic. The plastic breaths and after a time, you loose the solvents. The last bottle I used, worked different than previous batches and I really had to work the piece fast. I also store these bottles as well as my other finishes, upside down to form a seal and again, reduce evaporation. Brownell makes several great finishes but for the average person, like ourselves, True oil is a the best finish.

Oh yes, on the amount of thinner to use?? That is a judgement call but go slow and after a good mix, Dip a stick of even a pencil into it and see that the drops fall off about every second or so. It's hard to describe. You can also try a little on a test piece of wood and go from there. I like it on the thin side myself.

Good luck and Be Safe !!!

Smoke & Recoil · November 25, 2008, 04:59 PM

Hey Prince55, For the same price that you paid for that 3oz bottleof Tru-Oil...you can buy a quart can of Tung Oil at your local Home-Depotor Lowe's store. Tung Oil is a real nice finish on walnut grips and stocks.use oooo, steel wool very lightly between coats. Use a soft lint free ragand rub it in real good on the first coat and let stand over night,thenrub lightly with the steel wool. After that you can reapply ever 4 hoursuntil you reach the desired depth of finish that you like, and you'll stillhave enough Tung Oil left to do several grips, stocks and grandfather clocks. I hope this helps you.

LHB1 · November 25, 2008, 09:43 PM

Prince,
TruOil has been my preferred stock finish since 1964. If you leave the cap off the bottle and expose the liquid to air/oxygen, the finish will begin to set up/cure to a gummy consistency as you mention. My solution is to open the bottle and pour out only what I think will be needed into a small paper cup, then immediately recap the bottle. This seems to make the finish in the bottle last much longer before beginning to set up and become gummy.

kenjs1 · December 1, 2008, 06:32 PM

i've used tung oil too -worked nicely. Linseed is another - but a better option than that is Linspeed - dries much quicker.

fastforty · December 5, 2008, 06:00 PM

I've heard that Tru-Oil is best thinned with Denatured Alcohol. Works good for me

**Unclenick** · December 5, 2008, 06:37 PM

Tung oil and Linseed oil make beautiful finishes, but they are not as moisture resistant as those with some portion of polyurethane or other synthetic resin or a varnish resin in them. You can prove this by putting a damp cloth on a rubbed linseed oiled finish. You get a white watermark in no time. I've also seen mold growing on a linseed oil finished stock before.

Nnobby45 · December 5, 2008, 10:05 PM

I've finished more than one stock with Tru-oil. An ol' timer taught me. He told me to apply a thin coat, after the finish has been sanded off, let dry, and buff it with fine steel wool.

As you keep repeating the process, you will notice the pores of the wood beginning to fill up. I realize that a dozen coats is time comsuming and not for everyone. But if you want a truly beautiful stock, that's how to do it. The last coat is buffed with pumice stone (powdered) mixed with mineral oil. Or you can omit that and lightly buff the last coat with the steel wool for the most amazingly shiny stock you've ever seen. This will completely fill up the pores and waterproof it. If you don't like the shine, buff with burlap.

It's the multiple thin coats that does it.

November 25, 2008, 01:39 PM	#1
Prince55 Senior Member Join Date: June 22, 2007 Posts: 472	Tru-Oil problem--- I just recently bought a new 3oz. bottle of Tru-Oil and after using a small amount a few times to refinish some Ruger Blackhawk grips noticed that it has a "gummy" consistency to it. At first I thought it was the temperature being colder from winter, but I think it needs thinning as it won't dry to a really smooth finish. What is the best type of thinner and about what amount ? Thanks

November 25, 2008, 04:46 PM	#2
Pahoo Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2006 Location: IOWA Posts: 8,783	I understand that it looks gummy, in the bottle; Right? If so, it's probably because it is too old and to much of the solvents, have evaporated. You can thin it down with Mineral Spirits or paint thinner as basically they are the same. Read the lable. True oil use to come in glass bottles and now in plastic. The plastic breaths and after a time, you loose the solvents. The last bottle I used, worked different than previous batches and I really had to work the piece fast. I also store these bottles as well as my other finishes, upside down to form a seal and again, reduce evaporation. Brownell makes several great finishes but for the average person, like ourselves, True oil is a the best finish. Oh yes, on the amount of thinner to use?? That is a judgement call but go slow and after a good mix, Dip a stick of even a pencil into it and see that the drops fall off about every second or so. It's hard to describe. You can also try a little on a test piece of wood and go from there. I like it on the thin side myself. Good luck and Be Safe !!! Last edited by Pahoo; November 25, 2008 at 04:52 PM. Reason: added info.

November 25, 2008, 09:43 PM	#4
LHB1 Senior Member Join Date: March 25, 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,545	Prince, TruOil has been my preferred stock finish since 1964. If you leave the cap off the bottle and expose the liquid to air/oxygen, the finish will begin to set up/cure to a gummy consistency as you mention. My solution is to open the bottle and pour out only what I think will be needed into a small paper cup, then immediately recap the bottle. This seems to make the finish in the bottle last much longer before beginning to set up and become gummy. __________________ Good shooting and be safe. LB

December 5, 2008, 06:00 PM	#6
fastforty Senior Member Join Date: December 28, 1999 Location: In a kornfield in kalifornia Posts: 1,161	I've heard that Tru-Oil is best thinned with Denatured Alcohol. Works good for me __________________ When Banjos are outlawed, only Outlaws will have Banjos The Bible is my lawbook. I turn the other cheek when applicable, and spend the rest of my days resisting evil at every front, until I have breathed my last breath.

December 5, 2008, 06:37 PM	#7
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	Tung oil and Linseed oil make beautiful finishes, but they are not as moisture resistant as those with some portion of polyurethane or other synthetic resin or a varnish resin in them. You can prove this by putting a damp cloth on a rubbed linseed oiled finish. You get a white watermark in no time. I've also seen mold growing on a linseed oil finished stock before. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle Last edited by Unclenick; December 5, 2008 at 06:43 PM.

November 25, 2008, 04:59 PM	#3
Smoke & Recoil Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2008 Location: East shore of Lake Michigan. Posts: 714	Hey Prince55, For the same price that you paid for that 3oz bottleof Tru-Oil...you can buy a quart can of Tung Oil at your local Home-Depotor Lowe's store. Tung Oil is a real nice finish on walnut grips and stocks.use oooo, steel wool very lightly between coats. Use a soft lint free ragand rub it in real good on the first coat and let stand over night,thenrub lightly with the steel wool. After that you can reapply ever 4 hoursuntil you reach the desired depth of finish that you like, and you'll stillhave enough Tung Oil left to do several grips, stocks and grandfather clocks. I hope this helps you.

December 1, 2008, 06:32 PM	#5
kenjs1 Senior Member Join Date: July 10, 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 129	i've used tung oil too -worked nicely. Linseed is another - but a better option than that is Linspeed - dries much quicker.

December 5, 2008, 10:05 PM	#8
Nnobby45 Senior Member Join Date: November 20, 2004 Posts: 3,150	I've finished more than one stock with Tru-oil. An ol' timer taught me. He told me to apply a thin coat, after the finish has been sanded off, let dry, and buff it with fine steel wool. As you keep repeating the process, you will notice the pores of the wood beginning to fill up. I realize that a dozen coats is time comsuming and not for everyone. But if you want a truly beautiful stock, that's how to do it. The last coat is buffed with pumice stone (powdered) mixed with mineral oil. Or you can omit that and lightly buff the last coat with the steel wool for the most amazingly shiny stock you've ever seen. This will completely fill up the pores and waterproof it. If you don't like the shine, buff with burlap. It's the multiple thin coats that does it.