September 2, 2014, 04:26 PM | #1 |
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223 cases ?
Do you keep count on how many times you reload your cases and keep them separate. Or do you just keep reloading them until the case neck cracks ?
How many times can a case be reloaded before it looses accuracy ? |
September 2, 2014, 04:42 PM | #2 |
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Rifle cases (properly sized) can be used dozens of times especially in a bolt gun. I don't count or keep track in any way. I have many with 10+ loads on them and they're indistinguishable from those with 1. Semis are harder on brass by nature but there's still no reason to toss them after "X" reloads. Watch for incipient head separation or other problems and dispose of them accordingly.
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September 2, 2014, 07:30 PM | #3 |
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Just what Brian says, I dont keep track of number of times loading, I always tumble then resize so I check after the tumble and before the resize. The only ones I have found that are bad are cracked case necks.
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September 2, 2014, 07:35 PM | #4 |
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I segregate by the following categories:
1. Once fired in the box they came in: I know these have only been fired once and reserve these for hunting loads, for example. 2. General circulation: These are the ones I have shot a few times with various loads. I do not have an efficient way to know just how many times each was shot. 3. Culls: For whatever reason, I do not want to load them. Generally mixed range pickup, crimped, fewer than a lot of each. They will go to the range as scrap when they get in the way. I do try to keep track in my head, generally by year (LC) where I got them. For instance I picked up a couple hundred 07, 08, 09 that are in general circulation, and will toss those in around a year. I just reamed a few hundred FC, and those will be a mainstay in general circulation, replacing the previous group.
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September 2, 2014, 08:29 PM | #5 | |
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I keep track of the number of loadings for everything I load. For 223 blaster loads in AR's, I don't try to separate headstamps. When I start to get neck splits, I anneal everything in that group.
For bolt guns I keep my brass separated by lots or groupings by head stamp. I do this because I feel it saves me time in case prep. Quote:
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September 3, 2014, 08:22 AM | #6 |
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Is there a point where after x many reloads the cases start to loose accuracy ?
As in neck tension becoming different. |
September 3, 2014, 08:29 AM | #7 |
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When I first started reloading, I used mostly factory ammo brass that I fired and then reloaded. Needless to say, I had a lot of different head stamps so I was always sorting. Once I got 50 or 100 with the same head stamp, I used that for set multiple reloads.
Brass from some of the ammo makers didn't last very long, about 8 reloads before they began to experience neck splits. Some had primer pocket issues. The biggest issue I found was that after multiple resizings some brass loses its ability to maintain consistent neck tension after sizing. That really messes up accuracy more than anything else and when I felt that some of the brass within a head stamp set varied in seating pressure, I'd dump that set and replace it. About 4 years ago, for my bolt action .223, I switched to Lapua brass and have reloaded the last lot of 100 more than 18 times without problems and just loaded another set of rounds to take to the range with that old brass. I also find that the Lapua brass seems to maintain neck tension consistency longer than most other brass I have tried. I also haven't dumped any brass yet because of primer pockets getting loose. Even with that great reuse record, I don't use expensive Lapua brass with my current AR. For my AR, I find that between having the rims messed up by the extractor, the cases dented by bouncing around when it exjects, and just not finding all of the rounds fired in a session, the brass doesn't get close to that number of reloads. Because of the losses in each session, I continue to use my large stash of factory ammo cases that I have gathered over the years when loading for my AR. If I succumb to my current desire to buy a really good match grade AR, I might rethink the brass issue and try Lapua. |
September 3, 2014, 08:59 AM | #8 |
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Pretty much what Brian Pfleuger said.
If loading match ammo then I start with new brass and keep that brass separate for match ammo. After 10 cycles it gets tossed into general use brass and the cycle starts over.
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September 3, 2014, 09:31 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
Some competition shooters anneal between every load. You could segregate for annealing purposes. I do that. I still don't count loads but ones that have been annealed since last use go in one bin, shot ones go in another. I reuse the shot ones 2, 3, 4 times, it all depends on how many rounds I need at the moment versus how many are in each bin. When the annealed bin gets low, I anneal all the used ones and start over. Personally, I don't notice any difference in accuracy but my best guns (and me) are only a bit under 1/2 MOA. I suspect you'd have to be under 1/4 to know the difference. |
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September 3, 2014, 11:05 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
But when the case neck splits or the primer pocket gets too large to hold the primer properly the case gets tossed. Your case neck will be the factor in accuracy and should be properly sized to hold the bullet with proper tension. If you do not anneal your cases you will most likely get 5 to 7 uses out of each case. Like Brian said, it will vary depending on who's brass you use, it would be a good idea to keep your brass sorted by head stamp, some brass is better and some just so so. Jim
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September 6, 2014, 04:53 AM | #11 |
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Thank you for all the replies, I appreciate the help.
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September 6, 2014, 11:04 AM | #12 |
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I have only a few rifles that I reload for, but have been reloading hand gun ammo for nearly 30 years. With a hand gun reloading base I didn't count reloadings, so when I started reloading for my rifles, I didn't count those either (.223/5.56, 30-30, 303 British, 7.62x54R). When I got my M1 Garand I began counting my 30-06 brass and kept them separated by headstamp and number of times reloaded. I now have a few red Folgers coffee cans with tops labeled 1, 2, 3, up to 6 for my unprocessed/fired brass. Since I'm "working" up loads, I only reload 2 clips full (16) of each load and keep them separated in zip-loc bags. So I have coffee cans full of bags of once, twice, etc., fired brass. I still have a lot of HXP ammo to shoot so I can get by with only reloading a few for each trip (mebbe 48 or so)...
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September 6, 2014, 11:24 AM | #13 |
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I have 3,000 + 223 cases, sorted by new and by different head stamps. I have once fired with the old primers sorted by head stamps, I have sized once fired with new primers.
And I have stripper clips. F. Guffey |
September 6, 2014, 01:22 PM | #14 |
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I do lots of things.
I have a selected grouping of LC 72 brass that was selected by weight many years ago. It is all processed the same and all will be fired before any is processed. It is only loaded to the specs for a single bolt action rifle. I've been loading this one grouping since the late 70's and have no idea how many loading they have. Many but they are a target loading that is on the light to medium end, (50 grain HP @ 2854 FPS, I run a test sampling every time I change lot numbers on powder or primers). But I also pitch what ever brass I shoot or gather into a plastic cat litter bucket. When I get a wild hair to load em up, I rattle tub clean them all. Then sort by head stamp and check for splits, cracks and run my probe to check for head separation roughness. With all brass sorted, it goes into buckets for later disposition. When I have a need, I will select a head stamp and number of cases to handle what ever. Seems like every winter I will end up de-priming, sizing and fully cleaning (SS pins) each of the groupings. I try not to prime until I know what the load is going to be. As of late, I have been hopeing for a split neck or some other neck/case mouth failure, just so I will have dead .223/5.56 brass to convert to 300 BlackOuts Is this the information you were looking for? Load with care, OSOK |
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