refinishing stock

[comancheblack2]

I bought a weatherby vanguard from a friend. He has all the finish taken off the stock. Any suggestions on a finish that will stand up to hunting condtions? Something I can get locally like a hardwhere store or wal-mart? I really did not want to send away for it like brownells . It's a walnut stock so something close to what the orginal color is what i was looking for. Thanks

[langenc]

That must be a wooden, non checkered stock.

Just sand and get all the old stuff off. When you think you are done go over it a couple more times.

Use Tru-oil from Wal-Mart or most better gun shops.

Apply about a scant teaspoonful and rub around w/ your hand-no rags or paper towels needed. Allow to dry-takes overnight most likely. Buff off w/ steel wool-00 or 0000, repeat for several coats-till all pores (pits) are covered.

You will very quickly see that unbuffed TO is HIGH gloss but buffed is really nice matte finish. Just keep applying and you will soon be able to tell when enough is enough.

Many others will recommend a variety of prods, oils, minwaxes etc etc.
TO is tough, weather resistant and patchable when you scratch it. Only need to redo the affected area.

You will get compliaments.

[sserdlihc]

Paint it! Take a look at this link.

http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...painted+stocks

[Pahoo]

comancheblack2
As part of your research, take a look at this how to videos by Boyd. great information here..

http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/Videos...igns-s/139.htm


Be Safe !!!

[HighExpert]

If you want much tougher finish you can use the same system I use on the oak furniture I build. Start with clean, dry wood and lay on a heavy coat of teak oil. Let it dry for about 4 hours and had buff it off. Apply another lighter coat, let dry for at least 12 hours and hand buff it. Apply another even lighter coat, let dry another 12 and rub out with a soft cloth. If you want gloss like the original use a stick of carnuba wax which you can get at a wood working shop. Apply it to buffing wheel running on you electric drill and then to the wood. Run the buffing wheel with the wax on it until it gets quite warm to the touch. Let cool and the hand buff with a soft cloth.

[Bill DeShivs]

If you want it to look like it did originally, you would have to dunk it in a vat of polyurethane!

[Scorch]

So much advice . . . Most furniture finishes will not be satisfactory on a firearm because of moisture from sweat, grease and oil from skin, and solvents and oils used on the firearm itself to clean and protect the firearm. These will lift waxes, fog polyester finishes, blister and soften paint, and penetrate the finishes and soften and destroy the wood. Use a finish that has been proven on firearms and is solvent and moisture resistant. There are many, but you need to make sure the one you choose is up to the task (read the recommended applications). TruOil, Permalyn, LinSpeed, Acra Coat for Wood, shellac, lacquer, solvent-based polyurethanes, and epoxies all will work well.

I do stock work for a living, and I prefer TruOil or Permalyn, but you can use just about anything you want. I have even seen stocks satisfactorily refinished with wood siding sealer, varnish, clear spray paint, paste wax, you name it. Just make sure you follow the right steps and you will get good results.

Sand the stock to 300-400 grit (always use a sanding block!!), wash the stock with a good degreasing soap (make sure you rinse it well), dry for several days, sand lightly, wipe it down with a dry cloth, seal the wood (first coat should be thin to seal the grain), let it dry for several days, sand the finish (give the following coats a smooth surface to stick to), build up several coats of whatever finish you choose to use (don't try for one coat coverage!!), and do a good job and you will likely be happy with the results.