Cost:Benefit Looking at Reloading

[ChaoticRambo]

Okay, so I am sure this topic has been beat to death, and I read a few posts - but I want to make sure I am calculating things correctly.

Right now I am simply target shooting for fun, not trying to compete or do anything super specialized, just have an enjoyable time with friends.

So I have been thinking about reloading my own ammo, as I have read time and time again that it is cheaper. But for the life of me, I can not get the numbers to work out.

Using MidwayUSA as my source for prices on reloading supplies, I wanted to see what it would cost me per round to reload, and then compare to buying manufactured rounds.

So I ran the numbers on three types, 9mm, 45 ACP, and 5.56.

Gunpowder - $126.99/8 lbs (no tax, no shipping, no hazmat included)
Small Pistol Primers - $143.99/5000 (no tax, no shipping, no hazmat included)
115 Grain 9mm Bullets - $97.99/1000 (no tax, no shipping included)
185 Grain .45 Bullets - $115.99/1000 (no tax, no shipping included)
55 Grain .223 Bullets - $518.99/6000 (no tax, no shipping included)
Small Rifle Primers - $153.99/5000 (no tax, no shipping, no hazmat included)

Assuming I can reuse my own brass, the cost/round comes to $0.39 for 9mm, $0.56 for .45, and $0.24 for .223.

Now, I used about the most favorable conditions to price these out, and I can still buy ammo (including shipping) for much less than these prices. Am I simply not looking at the right place for reloading supplies?

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

[jwrowland77]

Something don't seem right. Even when I was using jacketed bullets, I was loading them for $0.18 per round for 9mm.

Now I'm casting for $.007 per round (bunch of free primers and powder and cases.) So roughly $7/1000

[Pond, James Pond]

Might I suggest looking at sources other than Midway?

I am sure you can get cheaper components, just perhaps not all the ones you want from the same outlet.

[surveyor]

Here is a calculator.
Using your numbers for 9 mm and a charge weight of 4 grains
I come up with 6.79/50

I load 124 gr cast with 4 gr bullseye, so that's where I came up with that.

Same charge weight for 200 lrn for 45

I use the same powder in 9,38,45
But diffrent powder in rifle
http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp

[TailGator]

Recheck your math. You are getting your 9 mm bullets for less than a dime, and your primers for less than 3 cents a piece. Your powder should be less than a nickle a round (although you don't specify which powder or charge you intend to use). I don't see how you are getting it up to $0.39 for a 9 mm round. You should be closer to $0.18, which is about where my costs run, maybe a penny or two higher.

[Nick_C_S]

Like high school, you need to show your work

We can do the math 'till the cows come home; point is, you're not going to save a dime. You're going to shoot more - I promise.

Next point: There's a lot of garages with reloading equipment tucked in the corner and collecting dust by those who wanted to save money. What was the problem? They didn't enjoy handloading ammunition. They were only doing it to save money, and didn't appreciate the craft of loading.

If handloading isn't something to be enjoyed, then one's time must be counted as an expense - that alone becomes a deal-breaker for many.

If handloading is something that is enjoyed, then one's time need not be counted because the time spent doing it is pleasant and not a chore.

Makes sense?

[ChaoticRambo]

It would seem as though I misunderstood the actual amount of gunpowder that goes into each casing. My calculations are coming out a little better now.

And I total understand the fact that this process takes time and most of all attention. Not something to be doing when you can't put your full attention into it.

I am still in the learning stages, trying to figure out if the overall equation is going to make sense for me or not. A lot of that will depend on the cost savings, but I know that's not the only factor.

Thanks!

[cwall64]

For me I think that 9mm was a hard one to justify the startup cost moving from an old single stage RCBS RockChucker to a progressive press. But for 40 S&W, 10mm, and 45 ACP it became pretty easy. I didn't really look at your calculations but, for me it is generally around 1/2 the cost of factory ammo. Take the 40 S&W - roughly 4 cents for the powder, 3 - 4 cents for the primer, and anywhere from 10 - 16 cents for the bullet depending on what you want to buy per round. Even if I look at online reload companies like Georgia Arms at roughly $0.31 per round (without shipping) my 18 - 24 cent/round adds up when shooting a lot.

10mm is a no brainer at over 50% savings, most of the time factory is around 44 to 62 cents around and the components are pretty much the same except for a solid 4 - 5 cents on powder. My max of 24 cents/round looks pretty good then (and that is with Hornady 180 grain HAP bullets)!

I would suggest looking local for primers and powder and see if the availability and price point are doable. Locally for me primers are pretty close to online and even with state tax cheaper than ordering large quantities online. Also, if looking online gunbot.net has a pretty good stock/pricing feature for reloading supplies. I do not think it gets data from every source, but might give you some alternatives (Also, Midway drops ships powder directly from the source, so the last time I ordered powder from them it took 8 weeks - I didn't know that until i bought it and then called them when nothing came in a reasonable timeframe).

[EugeneNine]

Your number is defiantly off. For 9mm I buy whatever I find at Cabelas so no bulk buying or buying cheap. Factory target ammo was average .30 round (over the last couple years during the shortage). My reloads with Berrys plated and Tightgroup were .15 per round.
I bought the Lee hand press, 9mm die set, lee ram prime, cabelas tumbler, etc and estimated the break even at 2000 rounds.

[Vance]

You don't really end up spending less money on ammunition, you just end up shooting more for the same amount of money.

[jmr40]

How much is your time worth to you? I load for my big game hunting rifles because I can get better quality, more accurate, and slightly faster loads with premium bullets for about the same cost as the cheaper stuff sold at Walmart. It is worth my time to get much better quality ammo than I can buy.

I don't load for handguns or 223. Sure I could save a few dollars, but it is not worth the time expended to me. I can still find 9mm and 223 cheap enough. I'm retired, but work a few days a month and can pick my days. I can earn more in those few days of working and just buy the ammo than I'd save in ammo costs if I spent the same number of hours reloading. At least for those rounds.

[A pause for the COZ]

As others have said. Cost per round is less.
But you wont save money. You just shoot to fill the available resources.

At first your saving will be marginal. Over paying for some components and getting good deals on others.
As you get better at the hunt. ( yes thats part of the fun too) You buy only what you need when prices are normal.
But when the big sale is on. Stock up when its cheap.

Once you get good at it, you can completely disengage your self from the market fluctuations.

Just to give you an idea.
After buy extra here and there. I have at least a two year supply of all consumables.
For bullets I cast my own. I have molds in the calibers I need.
I then just store the lead. I have about 1000 pounds of lead on hand.
Collecting when its free and buying when its cheap.
That comes out to well over 45,000 158 gr bullets.
I can just cast what I need when I need it.

I also have a bullet trap at my home range and reclaim 90% of my bullets to cast them again and re shoot them. So I dont need to buy any more. Ever

Once you get a good stock up. You now benefit from economies of scale.
I now only buy when I get a deal.

Besides, I much prefer to spend money on a new gun or option. Than to spend money on some thing that after it goes pop its never to be seen again.

[Clark]

Reloading is a huge waste of money, but everyone does it that takes guns seriously.

If we knew what we were getting into, we would have never got married and the human race would go extinct.

[OnTheFly]

I would suggest looking at the following...

Montana Gold for FMJ/CMJ bullets. High quality at a very good price. One of the most common jacketed bullets found at USPSA nationals. The one drawback is that you need to buy a case (approx 3,750) of bullets to get the price per round down.

X-Treme plated bullets. Also fairly common amongst shooters at USPSA national competitions. I've found them to be VERY consistent in diameter, weight, and OAL. Possibly more so in my samplings than Montana Gold. Besides being even less expensive than Montana Gold and other bullets, you don't have to buy in as much bulk as with others. 1K bullets will get you a good price with a flat $5 shipping charge.

IF you are going to reload better than 8K rounds a year, I would HIGHLY recommend the Dillon XL650 with a case feeder. I can load 1K rounds in a little over an hour. That's just pulling the handle, and does not include case prep or primer tube loading. Dillon has been great on their customer service. Any issues I have had were addressed with quick (and free) shipment of parts to get my press up and running in no time.

Fly

[Brotherbadger]

Lots of good suggestions here. I agree that you're math is off and you need to look elsewhere for components. Is there a local LGS that sells reloading supplies?

[TimSr]

9mm is probably the cheapest ammo you can buy off the shelf, and very often you won't see significant cost savings, specially when your time is considered.

When you really see costs savings is when you start loading those expensive rounds that use common components like 257, 44 mag, 45LC, 454Casull, and most rifle rounds other than .223. Bullets are the most expensive component, and anytime you can buy in bulk, and/ or use cast, you'll have a much bigger savings. Buying powders and primers locally (if available) will save you money as your gun store pays the same hazmat fees on a truckload that you pay on 1lb. New brass is often more expensive than new factory ammo. I'd never buy it unless I had no choice.

[A pause for the COZ]

Sooo true. I just got a 45-70. Purchased two boxes of ammo. Cost was $90.

Wont be doing that again. I can reload that same two boxes with my lead bullets for about 5 bucks.

[pathdoc]

I am almost certainly not saving money. But I am having fun, and that's worth any extra cost per shot.

[salvadore]

Wow, I've been reloading for 47 years...egad. As mentioned, probably not saved any money, but shoot lots. The last two shortages never slowed me down. I reload all my considerable centerfires and cast for most. Having a stock of rimfires helps. Anyway, worked for me.

[Road_Clam]

The fact that one embarks into reloading to "save" money always confuses me. For me handloading was a two fold advantage as my main discipline is precision rifle. I'ts an enjoyable passion for me. My #1 gain was just that consistiency and loads tailored specifically to my individual barrels. The second benefit is that now I'm heavily vested into handloading I am not impacted by ammo shortages/gouging. I could care less about the ammo political climate. However I do need to be concerned about the "reloading component shortages" which also are an issue. I started handloading about 4 years ago and I've stockpiled enough components to easily load 15K+ rounds of .223 , .308, x54R , 8mm mauser , .40S&W , and 460 S&W mag. The total additional investment is probably upwards of $6K. So for the entry level handloader you need to invest and I guarantee by the time you will be comfortably up and running you will have about $700+ invested, so right off the bat you have technically lost money not saved. You need to then shoot thousands of loaded rounds to actually start "saving" money...

[WVsig]

Depending on the equipment you purchase you will not see any savings for 3,000 + rounds IMHO. I started reloading recently. I load only handgun for now and my break even point on 45, 9mm and 38sp is 3500 rounds give or take depending on caliber. At that point the equipment cost will have been covered by the cost per round savings by reloading. I bought a Lee turret press with 3 sets of dies, turrets, powder measurers, tumbler, etc...

You have to remember you will also have to buy components locally or buy in bulk to save on the hazmat fees. In the short term you will pay a lot more for your ammo but the longer you reload the more you hypothetically will save but as others have pointed out most people don't really save $$$ reloading.

They simply shoot more. They buy more equipment. They buy more components and spend lots of time to build specialized loads etc... Almost no one ever accounts for the time they put into reloading. Time that could be spent making $$ or doing other activities.

One thing you do not mention is how much do you currently shoot and how much do you want to shoot once you are reloading. IMHO if you are not shooting 500-1,000 rounds a month just buy ammo when it is on sale in bulk.

[stubbicatt]

I haven't saved any money hand loading.

I have had a great time, learned a lot, and crafted ammunition I am proud of that is as accurate as I can make it.

In an effort to save money on bullets I shot commercially cast bullets for awhile. Got lead fouling issues, which I incorrectly attributed to the nature of cast bullets.

I bought a casting setup. I'm pretty sure I'm ahead of the cost curve by now, but more importantly I get stellar accuracy and no barrel leading. I remember shooting my cast bullets through a 7BR at IHMSA matches for nearly nothing and shooting some of my best scores. It is a source of pride.

[NINEX19]

Yes, redo the math carefully. For 9mm, using FMJ or plated, you should be in the 14-18 cent range. I don't reload .223, but for most rifle rounds you should be able to reload for at least half the cost of factory. Currently, you will save money round for round when you reload, but you will probably spend more in the long run because of the amount you will shoot will probably be more. You will also need to factor in your time and what it is worth to you vs buying new.
Example: I can reload 9mm, 38 special, and 357 magnum for about the same price (357 Mag. is a few cents more due to powder increase). 9mm, right now, can be had for @ $10/100, 38 Spl. @ $18/100 and .357 Mag. @ $25/100. So obviously I save more over factory prices by reloading the .357 Mag than 9mm though components are all the same price (assuming you are using your own brass). My point is, what you reload will dictate how much you will save over off the shelf prices.
I don't cast, but I know you can save even more by doing that, especially if you can get the lead free.

Having said that, I would probably reload even if it cost a bit more than factory because I get so much enjoyment from creating my own. If it is something you won't enjoy, don't do it. That is a recipe for frustration, mistakes and ultimately disaster.

edited for clarity

[OnTheFly]

For anyone suggesting you won't save money reloading 9mm, I highly disagree. The best I have been able to find on factory loaded 9mm lately (and this is as good or better than pre-panic prices) is around $10 per box of 50. Final cost after adding shipping and/or taxes is closer to $12.50 per 50. I can reload 9mm for $6.65 per 50. So I am reloading for nearly half what it would cost me to buy factory loaded.

I buy much of my supplies in bulk (8# of powder, 5-10K primers, etc.), but this can be done in smaller quantities if you put in the effort to organize a group buy with other fellow loaders so that you can split the costs of shipping, hazmat, etc.

Another thing to note here is that you don't need to drive yourself crazy finding the powder that is $xx cheaper because a significant increase in powder cost is relatively insignificant in the overall cost per round. I was playing with the numbers, and even a 50% increase in powder cost would only raise the cost per round by a negligible amount.

Fly

[Fox84]

I don't consider the cost. I enjoy reloading as much as shooting. I find my self going to the range to free some cases up for a new and improved batch.