Glock 26: can this become a serious problem?

[Ignacio49]

I just bought a used G26. It is an old 2.5 generation that seemed to be in perfect condition.

I noticed that sometimes it is difficult to field strip this gun, as the slide does not come forward. I am no new to Glocks, and know well how to take it down - magazine out, trigger pulled, slide block pushed down. At this point the slide comes forward just a bit, enough to clear the slide block, but does not want to easily come forward any more. I have to use force to make it move forward.

Upon detailed inspection I noticed some marks/wear in the frame, right where the recoil spring meets the barrel. It seems that after some “action” (like racking the slide a few times) the edge of the recoil spring assembly does not stay fully seated in the barrel groove, but moves out of it and starts rubbing the frame, which causes the wear/rough spot which in turn does not allow the slide to move freely.

I have tried the frame with a different recoil spring, a different barrel, a different slide (and all possible combination of these parts) with the same results – recoil spring seems to move out of position and rub the frame.

You can see the pics below. Last two were taken to “simulate” what I believe the problem is: “in position” and “out of position”

I am not sure if this could become a major problem.
Any suggestions what to do to fix it?

Thanks for your help.

[musher]

That already looks like a serious problem to me. Wonder if the spring cut in the barrel block is a little off. Might try switching barrels to see if the problem goes away (if you can get your hands on another).

You could maybe put a little wax in the abraded area to determine whether further contact is happening with a replacement barrel.

[Ignacio49]

As mentioned, I already switched barrels - problem continues.

[Master Blaster 2]

Use their life time warrentee and send it back.

[1911Jeeper]

On a well used Gen3 G27, the circled area is completly filled in with material, and there are no marks or roughness just to the left of the circle in the cone shaped area. The barrel cuts appear normal, but it is hard to say if that is so.

After use, it is not unusual to find the Glock recoil spring in the "out" position of the last picture.

Contact Glock, they may make it right for you.
.

[Mrgunsngear]

The only time I've ever seen wear marks like that is on guns where the user has used aftermarket barrels; either conversion or some other type. My guess is that is the problem. But, if it's getting worse with the factory set up that would disprove my theory. If it is, call Glock and have them fix it. If it's only when using aftermarket barrels, stop using them

[C0untZer0]

^ +1

I was going to ask if you're using an after-market guide rod or RSA.

[dogtown tom]

I just bought a used G26. It is an old 2.5 generation

All G26's are Gen3.

[fastbolt]

The chatter marks like those pictured typically happen in the subcompacts when someone fails to fully seat the rear of the recoil spring assembly completely into the barrel lug's semi-circular "half-moon" notch for reassembly.

When it's not fully seated in the circular notch, and the slide & barrel are put back on the frame, the rear edge (metal) of the RSA is out of position and can dig into the frame as the slide is retracted for installation. This is typically an owner/user caused error. (In the full-size & compact Gen3 & earlier models, failure to fully seat the rear of the RSA's rod fully inside the notch can result in unwanted pressure being exerted on the plastic rod's base, and the base [rear] can be snapped off.)

When the slide & barrel are removed during field-stripping, the rear of the rod will be sticking down a little bit, looking like it's sort of "hanging" off the notch, and that's normal, but it must be fully seated back in the notch for reassembly (and the rod should be centered and parallel with the barrel, as well).

Mostly when this sort of damage occurs to a frame from failing to properly seat the rod during reassembly, it's usually cosmetic (although it looks nasty). However, having your particular pistol examined in person by a local Glock armorer would allow him/her to inspect the frame and make sure it's only cosmetic damage and that nothing else has been going on.

[Ignacio49]

dogtown tom:

Gen3 Glocks have finger grooves and checkered grips.
Gen2.5 have finger grooves, smooth (non checkered) grips.

This is a 2.5

[Vermonter]

The spring on my G27 Gen 4 tends to move off to one side durring reassembly however the gun wil not reassemble correctly when this happens so it is obvious enough for me to catch.

A glock should be super smooth to dissasemble and reassemble and any time there is a minor hitch in the simplicity I know I have something out of place. I would take it to an armorer or send it to Glock depending on your circumstances.

With Kind Regards, Vermonter

[fastbolt]

FWIW, I can also offer that one day when I'd removed the slide/barrel from one of my subcompact Glocks (I think it was one of my G26's, but I'd have to look at all of them, as it was some time ago), just to look at something in the frame, and I immediately replaced the slide/barrel ... I forgot to thumb the rear of the RSA back up inside the barrel lug's notch (so much for having automatically checked the RSA's seating all the other times I've ever gone to reassemble a Glock ) ... and I gave my frame a chatter mark at the same spot.

Yes, I felt silly (being a Glock armorer and all).

[IMightBeWrong]

In the past I also had a gen 2.5 Glock 26 with the same marks. It functioned fine for thousands of rounds so I never complained. If it does cause problems, contact Glock. I never did because it seemed only cosmetic.

[Ignacio49]

No aftermarket parts in this gun, only factory.

I understand your good explanation, fastball. At this point I believe this is not a serious problem, as you said - and I'm also with you, IMightBeWrong.

The only thing is, when field stripping, to remember to first tap (slam?) my hand with the gun (slide side) so that inertia makes the rear of the RSA to sit into the circular notch.

....but.... there is something wrong here, and as most of you suggested, I am having this 26 inspected by a qualified armorer.

Thanks for your great help.

[fastbolt]

Let us know what a close examination by the armorer reveals.

I don't get the ... "when field stripping, to remember to first tap (slam?) my hand with the gun (slide side) so that inertia makes the rear of the RSA to sit into the circular notch."

It just takes a gentle press against the steel disk base of the RSA with your thumb to fully seat the rear of the RSA in the semi-circular half moon notch. Why risk causing "inertia" to perhaps nudge the base a bit off (sideways and/or down, due to the shape of the notch) by tapping or slapping the slide against your hand?

FWIW, one of the RSA's I replaced in my first G26 exhibited a deformed edge at the rear of the large outer metal spring tube. It was at the rolled edge, at the end of the rearmost spring coil, where the tip rested against the metal lip (under pressure from the next coil winding). The lip had been pushed rearward into a V-shape, stressing the metal of the spring tube. No functioning issues had occurred, and no marring of the frame, bottom or sides (even though that's the part of the spring tube that can touch the frame sides during recoil, as the spring tube runs back toward the base).

I'd only had about 2500 rounds on the RSA at that point, including a few hundred rounds of +P+. My G27 RSA, which had been used to fire a similar number of harder recoiling rounds, didn't exhibit a similar deformity. I replaced the RSA in the G26 because it was no longer in original condition, though.

Over the years of using, shooting and examining other subcompact Glock's, as well as some of the small 99 series (which use a similar RSA design), I've come across RSA's that fit differently under the barrel lug. Some were snug and some were loose. Probably a bit of spec tolerance among both the RSA's and the way the barrels fit in the slides (since the RSA's rest against both at different ends when in position).

When they're loose, I just take extra care to make sure the rear of the RSA remains properly seated as I assemble the slide/barrel onto the frame. Sometimes this requires assembling the pistol pointing the slide muzzle down, to make sure gravity doesn't pull the RSA's base out of the notch until its been captured by the frame during reassembly.

[Doug S]

Yes, it would be nice if the OP would post his findings on this thread, for the next person who discovers the chatter marks on his subcompact Glock. I've always heard what Fastbolt posted, and the marks aren't uncommon on a Glock. My G26 has had them as far back as I can remember. They haven't gotten any worse, and they don't cause a problem. The OP has posted this over on THR and there seems to be a split in those opinions also. Would seem simple enough to call Glock and ask them if there is any question on the topic.

[MonsterB]

All G26's are Gen3.

Oh really. So theres no Gen 2, or Gen 4??:

The intenet is such a valuable source of info.

[Ignacio49]

"...
I don't get the ... "when field stripping, to remember to first tap (slam?) my hand with the gun (slide side) so that inertia makes the rear of the RSA to sit into the circular notch."
...It just takes a gentle press against the steel disk base of the RSA with your thumb to fully seat the rear of the RSA in the semi-circular half moon notch.."

fastbolt, I probably didn't express myself clearly - English is not my native language.

The problem happens when trying to field strip the gun. Please note that we start with a fully assembled gun, and therefore it is not possible to reach the RSA.
I can not field strip the gun smoothly (sometimes, not allways) because the steel disk base of the RSA is out of position, digging into the frame. I can not pull the slide out smoothly - I have to use force, which causes the chatter marks. To avoid this, I slam (maybe hit is a better word) as mentioned, to get the RSA back in its place... or at least to get it move towards its place enough to not dig into the frame, allowing the slide to move forward freely/smothly.

I hope it is clear now. Please let me know otherwise.

[fastbolt]

No problem. I no longer have even conversational Spanish skills, and I'm going to have to re-learn German again to keep up with my bi-lingual grand daughter.

I'd be surprised if the chatter damage is occurring when the pistol is being field-stripped. It's normal for the rear of the RSA to hand slightly off the barrel lug notch when field-stripped.

I've been told it's more common for that type of cosmetic damage to occur when the RSA is out-of-position during reassembly, when the lowered edge of the RSA's rear plate is shoved into the frame (instead of normally being slightly higher and clearing that part of the frame).

It doesn't have to be "hit" upward fully into the notch for disassembly/field-stripping, just fully pushed up into the notch for reassembly.

[Bendek]

Ignacio, I recently had the same issue with my G27, which was flawless up until last week. The only variable was that I may have over-lubed the barrel and spring. This may be a completely ridiculous theory but I had no issues for 2 years until I broke out the lube and got squeeze happy. I'm not an expert but that's the only thing that changed. Do you use a lot of oil?

Is it even possible to over-lube a gun?

[IZinterrogator]

Originally Posted by Bendek

Ignacio, I recently had the same issue with my G27, which was flawless up until last week. The only variable was that I may have over-lubed the barrel and spring. This may be a completely ridiculous theory but I had no issues for 2 years until I broke out the lube and got squeeze happy. I'm not an expert but that's the only thing that changed. Do you use a lot of oil?

Is it even possible to over-lube a gun?

Pour a bottle into your firing pin channel and let us know how that works out. Yes, it is possible to over-lube a gun.

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk

[Ignacio49]

Originally Posted by Bendek:
" Ignacio, I recently had the same issue with my G27, .......Do you use a lot of oil? "

Not in this case. And just to be sure, I just thoroughly cleaned the inners of the gun with a dry cloth. Same thing, the "phenomenon" is still there.

[Ignacio49]

" I've been told it's more common for that type of cosmetic damage to occur when the RSA is out-of-position during reassembly, when the lowered edge of the RSA's rear plate is shoved into the frame (instead of normally being slightly higher and clearing that part of the frame) "

Well, fastbolt, in this case it happens both ways. When reassembling, if I make a mistake (see below), and when disassembling, which is the problem I am trying to solve.

I believe in a trouble free gun it is more common when reassembling due to operator mistake - RSA's rear not sitting in its notch. But in this gun we have a problem, as already described.

It may be the RSA, the barrel...or...? I asked a friend to lend me his 26 to swap parts. Will see..

[glocktwotwo]

I dont have a g36 but looking at your pics,,the washer at the end of the recoil rod looks huge,,i have a g17 and g22 and looking at them the washer or whatever they are technicaly call are alot smaller are did you buy an aftermarket rod ..i noticed also that my recoil rod moves out of place a little ....check to see kf you have the proper recoil rod

[glocktwotwo]

Yep. The more i look at your pics the more i think your using the wrong recoil rod,,the metal washer on the end of you recoil rod is huge and definatly cutting into your frame