Scope Mounting How To

Nathan · March 29, 2015, 08:25 PM

I just mounted a scope to my Ruger #1 and thought I would share my method. Surely there are better methods, so please share yours.

PREP
- Gather tools: alignment bars(need for most scope rings), lapping bar and paste(need for most), torque screwdriver(nice, but possibly not required), screwdriver with the right bits(bit fit is VERY important at high torque, gun vise, mini level

- Gather parts: Good scope, good rings(give your setup a chance with quality rings!), good base, base bedding compound, purple 222 loctite(blue ok), gun protectant of choice, gun

- Gather know how: See how others have done it, get torque specs, ideally from the mfgr, cross bolt direction

MOUNTING THE SCOPE
- Does your scope need centering. . .method(seeems good, but I have not used it. On a used scope, this is important.
- Clean the spot the mount will touch with IPA(isoporal alcohol 90% or higher), clean the rings where they will touch with IPA.

BEDDING THE BASE
- (optional) apply bedding release to receiver and screws, sand base to scuff, apply thin bedding compound to base.
- Mount base at about 25% torque to squeeze out compound. Retorque in ~30 min. Retorque to 50% in 1 hr. Retorque to 100% in 6 hours. Retorque to 100% in 24 hours. After retorque, screws can be removed 1 at a time to apply locktite. Retorque before removing the next screw.
- Clean up compound when gooy. I don't remove the base to check, but if ooze out is weak or base does not look neatly attached to the gun, remove and see what you have.

MOUNTING THE RINGS
- Label rings bases and caps(and cap orientation). . . .Rings are generally made from one piece of steel and then split in 2. This makes cap and base a set as well as orientation critical.
- Loosely assemble rings. With the lapping bar in the ring bases, push down lightly while tightening cross bolts to specified torque. I alternate back and forth at about 3 torque levels(snug, ~50%, and final torque)

CHECKING ALIGNMENT
- Then assemble caps with the alignment bars almost touching. Use light to create a line along the bar to indicate if you are aligned. Check horizontal and vertical. Use white background to improve sight. If misaligned, you need to lap or adjust the bases. If adjustable, adjust first to get as close as possible.

LAPPING RINGS
- Lap rings by following the kits instructions. Basically, put compound on base, put compound on bar top, apply caps, tighten to snug (make sure cap to base gaps are even), back off about 1/4 turn so you can move bar. Then rotate bar and slide back and forth. When loose, retighten and keep going. Check progress often. Lap to about 80% finish removed. While 100% is good, it is hard to get 100% and it is possible(it seems) to over cut a spot before 100% is achieved.
- Recheck alignment. It should be perfect. If not, keep working on it.
- Clean rings and apply protectant.

SETTING EYE RELIEF
- loosely assemble scope on rings and determine ideal eye relief position.(I would check standing, sitting, prone, bench, everything. Mark the scope. (IME, it is better to be 1/2 farther away than 1/2" too close, especially on kickers. . .maybe 3/4 inch)

ALIGNING THE RETICLE
- Lock rifle in a level position using a level. The level should likely be set on the base to level the gun. I level front to back and then side-side. side to side is most important.
- Place scope on rings without moving the rifle.
- Apply caps to the scope rings with 1 screw per side and snug - 1/4 turn.(cap to base gaps must be even side to side)
- Place level on scope. Without moving the gun(at all) rotate the scope until the level is level.
- Torque scope cap screws to 50% torque. Alternate side to side tightening no more than 45 deg turn before switching to the other side until torque is reached.

TIGHTENING THE CAP SCREWS
- Apply 4 remaining screws in a similar way, but the scope should not rotate now when tightening.
- Then confirm scope alignment to your eyes.
- Then, remove 1 screw at a time, apply purple loctite, retighten to 50% torque.
- Last, torque each screw to 100% torque alternating sides and keeping turning under 45 deg before alternating.

This is my basic method. On the Ruger, I did not remove and bed the base. On my Savage 12 I bedded the base.

On my Savage 12, I used TPS rings and 1 pc base (bedded) so I skipped the alignement and lapping. . .It seems OK. On my T/C Contender, I didn't bed or align and the scope has been 100%. That is using the SSK base on an SSK barrel. Machining accuracy was likely superb.

On the Ruger #1, I lapped the base and frankly. . .The rings were poorly aligned and had poor scope to ring contact before. It was a necessary move.

So, I guess I'm saying some short cuts can be taken, but evaluate the risk. 2 pc bases will always need lapped. Maybe this fixture could improve that??

Sorry no pics. Hope this helps. I see lots of pics and videos online, but I feel sometimes people are missing key details that I have tried to show here.

March 29, 2015, 08:25 PM	#1
Nathan Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 2001 Posts: 6,331	Scope Mounting How To I just mounted a scope to my Ruger #1 and thought I would share my method. Surely there are better methods, so please share yours. PREP - Gather tools: alignment bars(need for most scope rings), lapping bar and paste(need for most), torque screwdriver(nice, but possibly not required), screwdriver with the right bits(bit fit is VERY important at high torque, gun vise, mini level - Gather parts: Good scope, good rings(give your setup a chance with quality rings!), good base, base bedding compound, purple 222 loctite(blue ok), gun protectant of choice, gun - Gather know how: See how others have done it, get torque specs, ideally from the mfgr, cross bolt direction MOUNTING THE SCOPE - Does your scope need centering. . .method(seeems good, but I have not used it. On a used scope, this is important. - Clean the spot the mount will touch with IPA(isoporal alcohol 90% or higher), clean the rings where they will touch with IPA. BEDDING THE BASE - (optional) apply bedding release to receiver and screws, sand base to scuff, apply thin bedding compound to base. - Mount base at about 25% torque to squeeze out compound. Retorque in ~30 min. Retorque to 50% in 1 hr. Retorque to 100% in 6 hours. Retorque to 100% in 24 hours. After retorque, screws can be removed 1 at a time to apply locktite. Retorque before removing the next screw. - Clean up compound when gooy. I don't remove the base to check, but if ooze out is weak or base does not look neatly attached to the gun, remove and see what you have. MOUNTING THE RINGS - Label rings bases and caps(and cap orientation). . . .Rings are generally made from one piece of steel and then split in 2. This makes cap and base a set as well as orientation critical. - Loosely assemble rings. With the lapping bar in the ring bases, push down lightly while tightening cross bolts to specified torque. I alternate back and forth at about 3 torque levels(snug, ~50%, and final torque) CHECKING ALIGNMENT - Then assemble caps with the alignment bars almost touching. Use light to create a line along the bar to indicate if you are aligned. Check horizontal and vertical. Use white background to improve sight. If misaligned, you need to lap or adjust the bases. If adjustable, adjust first to get as close as possible. LAPPING RINGS - Lap rings by following the kits instructions. Basically, put compound on base, put compound on bar top, apply caps, tighten to snug (make sure cap to base gaps are even), back off about 1/4 turn so you can move bar. Then rotate bar and slide back and forth. When loose, retighten and keep going. Check progress often. Lap to about 80% finish removed. While 100% is good, it is hard to get 100% and it is possible(it seems) to over cut a spot before 100% is achieved. - Recheck alignment. It should be perfect. If not, keep working on it. - Clean rings and apply protectant. SETTING EYE RELIEF - loosely assemble scope on rings and determine ideal eye relief position.(I would check standing, sitting, prone, bench, everything. Mark the scope. (IME, it is better to be 1/2 farther away than 1/2" too close, especially on kickers. . .maybe 3/4 inch) ALIGNING THE RETICLE - Lock rifle in a level position using a level. The level should likely be set on the base to level the gun. I level front to back and then side-side. side to side is most important. - Place scope on rings without moving the rifle. - Apply caps to the scope rings with 1 screw per side and snug - 1/4 turn.(cap to base gaps must be even side to side) - Place level on scope. Without moving the gun(at all) rotate the scope until the level is level. - Torque scope cap screws to 50% torque. Alternate side to side tightening no more than 45 deg turn before switching to the other side until torque is reached. TIGHTENING THE CAP SCREWS - Apply 4 remaining screws in a similar way, but the scope should not rotate now when tightening. - Then confirm scope alignment to your eyes. - Then, remove 1 screw at a time, apply purple loctite, retighten to 50% torque. - Last, torque each screw to 100% torque alternating sides and keeping turning under 45 deg before alternating. This is my basic method. On the Ruger, I did not remove and bed the base. On my Savage 12 I bedded the base. On my Savage 12, I used TPS rings and 1 pc base (bedded) so I skipped the alignement and lapping. . .It seems OK. On my T/C Contender, I didn't bed or align and the scope has been 100%. That is using the SSK base on an SSK barrel. Machining accuracy was likely superb. On the Ruger #1, I lapped the base and frankly. . .The rings were poorly aligned and had poor scope to ring contact before. It was a necessary move. So, I guess I'm saying some short cuts can be taken, but evaluate the risk. 2 pc bases will always need lapped. Maybe this fixture could improve that?? Sorry no pics. Hope this helps. I see lots of pics and videos online, but I feel sometimes people are missing key details that I have tried to show here.