Antique Revolver Timing Problem

Automag · January 11, 2001, 04:09 PM

I am rebuilding/restoring a Merwin Hulbert & Co. 3rd. Model Single Action Frontier revolver. It is in generally good condition but with no finish and a slightly pitted bore. Mechanically it is all there and it still retains some of the famous Merwin "suction" when it is opened for loading. The mechanism is very much like the Smith & Wesson Model #3 SA revolver.
The problem is it occasionally "overstrokes" when it is cocked rapidly. I believe it is also refered to as "flyby". I have tried rebending the "bolt" spring to get more tension on the bolt to help it find the cylinder notch to no avail. I even replaced the spring with a heavier home made one. When that spring is installed it presents another problem because it is the trigger that must pivot into the hammer notch all the way to lever the bolt down out of position so the cylinder can turn. It now becomes a game of the trigger return spring needing to be stronger than the bolt spring to get proper function. Unfortunately I don't have nor do I want a heavier trigger spring.
Any ideas?
The cylinder notches are good, square and not worn or peaned over. It does not follow a pattern. Flyby occurs on any given notch at any time. The bolt has about .010" of play side to side in it's window. Is that too much play? Any other thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
Automag
[email protected]

James K · January 11, 2001, 10:59 PM

Hi, Automag,

It has been a good 25 years since I had an M&H apart and they are not all the same. But the trigger return spring needs to be stronger than the cylinder stop spring, though. The gun was not made to have a light trigger pull, so use a return spring that is strong enough.

Another part to consider is the cylinder stop itself to see if it is square and not worn.

The obvious solution, which will cost nothing, is not to cock it fast. SAA repros should be used for fast draw and CAS events.

Jim

Jim

George Stringer · January 12, 2001, 08:21 AM

Automag, in addition to what Jim said I would solder a shim in the bolt window to take up some if not all of the side play. George

January 11, 2001, 04:09 PM	#1
Automag Junior Member Join Date: January 11, 2001 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 2	I am rebuilding/restoring a Merwin Hulbert & Co. 3rd. Model Single Action Frontier revolver. It is in generally good condition but with no finish and a slightly pitted bore. Mechanically it is all there and it still retains some of the famous Merwin "suction" when it is opened for loading. The mechanism is very much like the Smith & Wesson Model #3 SA revolver. The problem is it occasionally "overstrokes" when it is cocked rapidly. I believe it is also refered to as "flyby". I have tried rebending the "bolt" spring to get more tension on the bolt to help it find the cylinder notch to no avail. I even replaced the spring with a heavier home made one. When that spring is installed it presents another problem because it is the trigger that must pivot into the hammer notch all the way to lever the bolt down out of position so the cylinder can turn. It now becomes a game of the trigger return spring needing to be stronger than the bolt spring to get proper function. Unfortunately I don't have nor do I want a heavier trigger spring. Any ideas? The cylinder notches are good, square and not worn or peaned over. It does not follow a pattern. Flyby occurs on any given notch at any time. The bolt has about .010" of play side to side in it's window. Is that too much play? Any other thoughts? Thanks in advance. Automag [email protected]

January 11, 2001, 10:59 PM	#2
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Hi, Automag, It has been a good 25 years since I had an M&H apart and they are not all the same. But the trigger return spring needs to be stronger than the cylinder stop spring, though. The gun was not made to have a light trigger pull, so use a return spring that is strong enough. Another part to consider is the cylinder stop itself to see if it is square and not worn. The obvious solution, which will cost nothing, is not to cock it fast. SAA repros should be used for fast draw and CAS events. Jim Jim

January 12, 2001, 08:21 AM	#3
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	Automag, in addition to what Jim said I would solder a shim in the bolt window to take up some if not all of the side play. George