April 9, 2008, 08:34 PM | #1 |
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White lithium grease
How many of our resident experts use white lithium grease on their 1911's? Advantages/disadvantages???
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April 9, 2008, 10:35 PM | #2 |
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cheap, works well and it's easy to find.
same reason why a lot of people use synthetic motor oil.
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April 9, 2008, 10:41 PM | #3 |
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How does it compare?
johnle, thanks. Is there any good reason, then, why folks use "gun oils" like Remington, etc.?
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April 9, 2008, 11:31 PM | #4 |
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It works and does the job. That what matters isn't it I gave up on oil on a carry pistol
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April 10, 2008, 12:15 AM | #5 |
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White Lithium grease, white synthetic bicycle grease, Militec-1 or FULL synthetic 5-20 motor oil. When lightly applied, it's all good for the 1911 and other semi auto's..
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April 10, 2008, 01:10 AM | #6 |
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I use it on the rails of semi-automatics.
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April 10, 2008, 01:34 AM | #7 |
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What's the difference between the white and the red?
I've got a Polytech M14S that just doesn't run as well with anything but red lithium grease. It hates CLP, I had to dig for the older military specs and they called for the grease. |
April 10, 2008, 02:01 AM | #8 |
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Years ago I had an AMT Skipper Commander size 1911. They specified white lithium grease to combat galling which was a big problem in early stainless guns. I never had a problem with galling in that fine weapon, and it's one of those guns that I got rid of during a particularly bad chapter in my life. I gave it to a good friend, which I don't regret, I'd feel worse had I sold it.
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April 10, 2008, 06:43 AM | #9 |
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I've been allways using full synthetic motor oil in all my firearms ... and it has allways worked fine for me. When you know the pressure and T° some parts of an engine car can reach and this for 10,000 miles > should be OK for a gun !
I believe the rest is biz and marketing. |
April 10, 2008, 08:04 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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April 10, 2008, 08:16 AM | #11 |
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I use Tetra gun grease on my firearms for the high wear areas like the slides on semi-autos. You can buff it in and it bonds to the metal. Great stuff and it won't evaporate or run out like regular oils.
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April 10, 2008, 10:36 AM | #12 |
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Just remember, grease + dust, dirt and the rest of the stuff that is likely to get into a carry gun = an excellent lapping compound.
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April 10, 2008, 01:25 PM | #13 |
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Good point!
Great point, parrothead2581! I've already acquired the white lithium but I thought I'd check with our experts here before I apply it - and how DO I apply it? - and have to regret.
Would you mind sharing your experience(s), parrothead2581? Thanks. |
April 10, 2008, 02:22 PM | #14 |
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I wouldn't hesitate to use it in a carry gun, while it's being carried. When it's time to go to the range though, I would strip it down, remove the grease and grit and oil it. You should be good to go then.
When your supply of grease runs out you might want to try Weapon Shield. Provided your not happy with the results. Excellent stuff there. Smells good too.
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April 11, 2008, 07:44 AM | #15 |
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Are ya'll talking of the spray on lithium? I intend to use it on my Ruger MKIII...
Thanks for a great info site once again... Brent |
April 11, 2008, 10:20 AM | #16 |
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Just me, but why would anyone use products made for cars on your guns when there is sooooooo many far better lubricants made for firearms? Grease used on a carry gun will attract dust, dirt, and grime first, then lubricate. Motor oil is almost just as bad. It likes to pull in dust and lint like a magnet, no matter how thin the layer is.
These lubes might be fine for safes, gun cases, then shooting at the range, back into the case then being put back in the safe. Unless the weapon is cleaned a couple times a day, it is not practical for daily constant carry. Hang on guys, I gotta put some more CLP in my crankcase Last edited by Boris Bush; April 11, 2008 at 06:10 PM. |
April 11, 2008, 11:41 AM | #17 |
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Excellent pt!!
Boris Bush, thanks for expessing MY "fears" about grease/motor oil. Please, let our resident experts sound off in response.
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April 11, 2008, 09:46 PM | #18 |
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I don't use motor oil, but some guns just scream to be greased. I had a lot of reliability issues with my Chinese M14 until I dug up the old-school lube specs. The new ones say CLP is ok for every part of an M14 that shouldn't be left dry, but the old ones called for red lithium grease. I switched and it has been highly reliable ever since then.
Some guns were built with grease in mind. It's what was intended as lube, and it's what they run best with. Lithium grease is a perfectly normal choice if your gun prefers it. Some do, some don't. I use CLP on all of my guns except three. Two need grease to function perfectly. There is one other that requires graphite. I use what works. Boris, I don't know what your problem is with grease, but it is not based on reality. Sometimes it's the only real choice. |
April 11, 2008, 10:19 PM | #19 | |
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B. Lahey
Thats funny I was just thinking how alot of rifles are better with grease. But they operate at much higher operational pressures, with bolts, carriers and op rods that weigh more than entire pistols. If you use a pistol where temps get anywhere near thinking about freezing, cycling will be slow and sluggish (tried it, so I know). By cold weather shooting I mean being outside all day when the temp gets to 7 for a high and try and shoot. It is like lubricating your firing pin with cosmoline and expecting it to fire in cold weather. It just aint happening......... Quote:
Not that there is anything wrong with grease on it for lube, and if it is used within its limitations it will be fine. Either clean the gun atleast daily or more and use real firearms lube in cold weather. If it is used for range toys and safe queens that get nothing but hand cycled then go for it.............. |
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April 11, 2008, 10:34 PM | #20 |
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Grease should be applied to enclosed parts like slide rails and the like. How did your slide rails "attract" anything? Do you carry your pistol with the action locked open?
I'm pretty sure the 1911 family of pistols and pretty much anything else designed in the age of grease were designed to be lubed with grease, so your point about grease not being a "real firearms lubricant" borders on madness. I'm not saying it's right for most guns most of the time, but it for damn sure is right for some guns some of the time. And stop insinuating I use motor oil on my guns. I already clearly stated that I do not, and I consider it to be a grave insult. |
April 11, 2008, 10:37 PM | #21 |
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I use it on my garage door springs. I dont see why it wouldnt be ok to use on firearms though. Metal on metal.
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April 11, 2008, 11:06 PM | #22 |
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B. Lahey
Sounds like you have a sense of humor.... One thing I learned along time ago is lint will find its way any and everywhere, when it does grease will bond with it. When I say constant carry, I mean exactly that. My P32 goes into my pocket 2 seconds after my belt is cinched and goes in the safe just before I take them off, all day everyday. Anyway I have heard that diesel works great for cleaning guns and was used, and still is in places where the insurgents do not have a local gunshop to go buy proper cleaning products. Just because it is done and works does not mean it is best. Since everyone here seems to strive for the biggest, baddest, best there ever was, then why use less than optimal lubricants? I do agree that an original spec 1911 will work good with grease because it has alot of wobble to do so. Get one of them newfangled too tight 1911s being made these days and let the temp get into the 40s and you wont be happy. Also get that greased up smoke wagon around dust, grime or lint, and you are going to have to clean a couple times a day. That is the reality of it. |
April 12, 2008, 12:09 AM | #23 | |
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Quote:
Not for my P32, though. Jeez, I'm surprised you even tried it. Not on my newer 1911 either. That's the one that loves graphite. |
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April 12, 2008, 12:17 AM | #24 |
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I typically use gun oil (Breakfree CLP) for light lube and for corrosion protection.
I use very small amounts of a light moly grease (mostly very fine molybdenum disulfide powder with enough CLP mixed in to make it a paste) for heavy contact/wear areas such as trigger/sear engagements and other heavy wear steel-to-steel sliding contact areas. For aluminum-to-steel or steel-to-polymer hard sliding contact I typically use very small amounts of a light white lithium grease. I live in a pretty warm climate. If I lived where it commonly got very cold, I would probably be much less likely to use grease since it can harden in very cold temperatures.
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April 12, 2008, 12:28 AM | #25 |
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B. Lahey
Looks like we agree 100%, we just use different examples to find ways to agree Anyway I have a buddies M4 at my house right now that he greases, and we shot the heck out of it last week, with out a problem. Worked good for his rifle, but he won't grease any of his handguns. |
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