M1A Scope mount

diablo508 · August 16, 2013, 11:05 PM

Okay, my latest project is a Springfield M1A Scout

I have just started putting together everything for it...I will be getting it all "dipped" in the ATACS AU camo when I have it all....

So far I have purchased:
1) Trijicon Accupoint 20-2G Scope
2) Trijicon TR125 quick release mount

I'll be also buying:
- Karsten model C cheek riser
- Atlas Bipod BT10-LW17

Now where I'm stuck is the M1A mount for the scope...Bassett, Arms18, Promag, Trijicon TA70, etc...etc...

Recommendations ??? This is where I'm stuck, which mount? The prices very greatly.... And I'll be honest I do want it to look good as well as keep its zero and clear the rounds... Trijicon was my 1st choice until I saw the price (although still not off the table)...The others I keep seeing reviews swing both ways... The iron sights are not an issue, as I will add a Trijicon RMR later on (I think)

Thanks for the help!

SmokyBaer · August 17, 2013, 09:03 AM

Not sure what look you are going after but here's a pic of my ARMS18 going on a Springfield.

SR420 · August 17, 2013, 09:38 AM

SmokyBaer, I've been told that Tim (WarBird) will modify the new #18 and make it just like the old split-rail #18 and re-park it for a fee. This should eliminate empty brass from hitting the ultra low mount. Any thoughts?

tank1949 · August 17, 2013, 10:45 AM

I have a SA M1A that I spent a fortune on 4 different mounts and loads trying to get one to work and not have the rifle stove pipe brass. New ejector button spring too!!!! I read a lot of article from different forums.

SADLAK responded to my concerns that it was due to not having proper grease in needed points of stress within my action to assist in cycling. My weapons are always cleaned and oiled. SADLAK suggested axle grease. Hum???? I tried it. That only marginally helped, if at all!

Noticing all the brass dings under scope mount, I gambled that brass was bouncing around in the area between mag and under mount. I sacrificed an Brookfield clone, (think Promag) and machined a cut out area to see if this helped. It did. However, in the process I had weakened the mount. So, I went to work on second Promag. This time , I cut less and made it stronger in certain places and I provided angled back cut so that ejected brass is supposed to be deflected. I have a customer made gas plug which allows me to adjust pressure to a degree and, according to designed, Clint Fowler, will tweak accuracy.

My most accurate rnd is 43 grains H4895 pushing 150 SMK, but brass will stove pipe every once in a while. Going to 45 grains effect accuracy just a tad but completely eliminates stove piping... If you plan on installing a mount on a scout, I suspect that mount will be forward of receiver and you will not have to worry about this crap. ????

Also, I fabricated mount out of SA mounts parts which was extremely high off barrel axis. This didn't stove pip because the height allowed brass to exit without restrictions. But, then I couldn't use iron sights. I feel your pain.

SR420 · August 17, 2013, 11:09 AM

Quote:

tank1949 I have a SA M1A that I spent a fortune on 4 different mounts and loads trying to get one to work and not have the rifle stove pipe brass. New ejector button spring too!!!! I read a lot of article from different forums.

SADLAK responded to my concerns that it was due to not having proper grease in needed points of stress within my action to assist in cycling.

The M14/M1A is a design that runs on grease, not gun oil. Use of any lube other than grease can cause all sorts of problems.

Tony Ben has made a few instructional videos that you can search for, he also created an excellent pdf, here is the link.

http://www.independencearmory.com/do...structions.pdf

SmokyBaer · August 17, 2013, 11:13 AM

Thanks. So far the only issue with the brass getting trapped has been when I had the EoTech mounted. It saddles over the pic rail and closes the opening just enough to grab a casing once in a while. Eliminating that issue with a CASM mount for my EoTech plinker/coyote blaster.

Early on I learned about ARMS18 issues and chose to open up every bolt for a good greasing with Lubriplate on everything, especially the ejector spring. Replaced two extractors with USGI cause they just didn't look right. So far, I have had really good luck with four installs using low and medium rings.

Another thing I do after stripping a side bolt is apply blue Loctite liberally with not so much gorilla torque. The ARMS18 mounts have not loosened up one time.

tank1949 · August 17, 2013, 11:24 AM

SR420,

Greased all except sight area with High-temp bearing grease. I really could notice difference. But, thanks anyway!!!!!!!!!

Ridge_Runner_5 · August 17, 2013, 04:00 PM

Sadlak aluminum

level10 · August 17, 2013, 07:18 PM

i have tried a few but prefer basset retains zero when taken off then put back on retains the use of irons and no ejection issues

SR420 · August 17, 2013, 07:36 PM

Quote:

The iron sights are not an issue, as I will add a Trijicon RMR later on (I think)

Then you should look at the CASM from M14.ca. Rock solid, back up iron peep sight included.

SmokyBaer · August 18, 2013, 05:10 AM

Last nite I got my CASM mounted so I could raise the EoTech up off the op rod area and rid myself of it trapping the brass. Well, it's like sitting a turtle on a post... Way too high! No cheek weld to speak of. I can see something else happening on that setup just don't know what yet.

My other CASM works great on my Standard using low rings toting a 3-9x50. Very solid mount.

diablo508 · August 18, 2013, 06:39 AM

I'm liking this CASM mount, just ordered!!

thanks

SR420 · August 18, 2013, 08:20 AM

Quote:

SmokyBaer Last nite I got my CASM mounted so I could raise the EoTech up off the op rod area and rid myself of it trapping the brass. Well, it's like sitting a turtle on a post... Way too high! No cheek weld to speak of.

I tried that exact set up and the results were the same. The EOTech and Aimpoint are much better sitting low out front on an UltiMAK or SHG.

roklok · September 4, 2013, 09:20 PM

I could not get the ARMS 18 to work with my rifle, even after I cut the center section of rail out. I still would get brass trapped between the op rod and the forward ring mount. I sold it and bought a Bassett. No problems with it.

The ARMS 18 is a great mount IF your rifle will run reliably with it, mine wouldn't, even after a lot of tinkering, changing springs, ejector, extractor, loads, etc.

August 17, 2013, 09:38 AM	#3
SR420 Senior Member Join Date: May 12, 2005 Location: Georgia, USA Posts: 3,336	SmokyBaer, I've been told that Tim (WarBird) will modify the new #18 and make it just like the old split-rail #18 and re-park it for a fee. This should eliminate empty brass from hitting the ultra low mount. Any thoughts? __________________ The History and Development of the M14 EBR

August 17, 2013, 10:45 AM	#4
tank1949 member Join Date: November 12, 2012 Posts: 243	Good luck I have a SA M1A that I spent a fortune on 4 different mounts and loads trying to get one to work and not have the rifle stove pipe brass. New ejector button spring too!!!! I read a lot of article from different forums. SADLAK responded to my concerns that it was due to not having proper grease in needed points of stress within my action to assist in cycling. My weapons are always cleaned and oiled. SADLAK suggested axle grease. Hum???? I tried it. That only marginally helped, if at all! Noticing all the brass dings under scope mount, I gambled that brass was bouncing around in the area between mag and under mount. I sacrificed an Brookfield clone, (think Promag) and machined a cut out area to see if this helped. It did. However, in the process I had weakened the mount. So, I went to work on second Promag. This time , I cut less and made it stronger in certain places and I provided angled back cut so that ejected brass is supposed to be deflected. I have a customer made gas plug which allows me to adjust pressure to a degree and, according to designed, Clint Fowler, will tweak accuracy. My most accurate rnd is 43 grains H4895 pushing 150 SMK, but brass will stove pipe every once in a while. Going to 45 grains effect accuracy just a tad but completely eliminates stove piping... If you plan on installing a mount on a scout, I suspect that mount will be forward of receiver and you will not have to worry about this crap. ???? Also, I fabricated mount out of SA mounts parts which was extremely high off barrel axis. This didn't stove pip because the height allowed brass to exit without restrictions. But, then I couldn't use iron sights. I feel your pain.

August 17, 2013, 07:18 PM	#9
level10 Member Join Date: December 25, 2011 Posts: 32	m1a scope mount i have tried a few but prefer basset retains zero when taken off then put back on retains the use of irons and no ejection issues

August 18, 2013, 06:39 AM	#12
diablo508 Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2009 Location: Pinehurst NC Posts: 118	I'm liking this CASM mount, just ordered!! thanks __________________ *Somewhere... a "True Believer" is training to kill you.*

August 16, 2013, 11:05 PM	#1
diablo508 Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2009 Location: Pinehurst NC Posts: 118	M1A Scope mount Okay, my latest project is a Springfield M1A Scout I have just started putting together everything for it...I will be getting it all "dipped" in the ATACS AU camo when I have it all.... So far I have purchased: 1) Trijicon Accupoint 20-2G Scope 2) Trijicon TR125 quick release mount I'll be also buying: - Karsten model C cheek riser - Atlas Bipod BT10-LW17 Now where I'm stuck is the M1A mount for the scope...Bassett, Arms18, Promag, Trijicon TA70, etc...etc... Recommendations ??? This is where I'm stuck, which mount? The prices very greatly.... And I'll be honest I do want it to look good as well as keep its zero and clear the rounds... Trijicon was my 1st choice until I saw the price (although still not off the table)...The others I keep seeing reviews swing both ways... The iron sights are not an issue, as I will add a Trijicon RMR later on (I think) Thanks for the help! __________________ *Somewhere... a "True Believer" is training to kill you.*

August 17, 2013, 09:03 AM	#2
SmokyBaer Senior Member Join Date: March 23, 2010 Location: Tennessee Posts: 272	Not sure what look you are going after but here's a pic of my ARMS18 going on a Springfield.

August 17, 2013, 11:13 AM	#6
SmokyBaer Senior Member Join Date: March 23, 2010 Location: Tennessee Posts: 272	Thanks. So far the only issue with the brass getting trapped has been when I had the EoTech mounted. It saddles over the pic rail and closes the opening just enough to grab a casing once in a while. Eliminating that issue with a CASM mount for my EoTech plinker/coyote blaster. Early on I learned about ARMS18 issues and chose to open up every bolt for a good greasing with Lubriplate on everything, especially the ejector spring. Replaced two extractors with USGI cause they just didn't look right. So far, I have had really good luck with four installs using low and medium rings. Another thing I do after stripping a side bolt is apply blue Loctite liberally with not so much gorilla torque. The ARMS18 mounts have not loosened up one time.

August 17, 2013, 11:24 AM	#7
tank1949 member Join Date: November 12, 2012 Posts: 243	SR420, Greased all except sight area with High-temp bearing grease. I really could notice difference. But, thanks anyway!!!!!!!!!

August 17, 2013, 04:00 PM	#8
Ridge_Runner_5 Senior Member Join Date: February 8, 2008 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,925	Sadlak aluminum

August 18, 2013, 05:10 AM	#11
SmokyBaer Senior Member Join Date: March 23, 2010 Location: Tennessee Posts: 272	Last nite I got my CASM mounted so I could raise the EoTech up off the op rod area and rid myself of it trapping the brass. Well, it's like sitting a turtle on a post... Way too high! No cheek weld to speak of. I can see something else happening on that setup just don't know what yet. My other CASM works great on my Standard using low rings toting a 3-9x50. Very solid mount.

September 4, 2013, 09:20 PM	#14
roklok Senior Member Join Date: October 20, 2008 Location: Fort Yukon, Alaska Posts: 735	I could not get the ARMS 18 to work with my rifle, even after I cut the center section of rail out. I still would get brass trapped between the op rod and the forward ring mount. I sold it and bought a Bassett. No problems with it. The ARMS 18 is a great mount IF your rifle will run reliably with it, mine wouldn't, even after a lot of tinkering, changing springs, ejector, extractor, loads, etc.