New Guy Questions

Kris' Dad · December 28, 2009, 10:33 PM

Greetings everyone. I've been lurking around this forum for a few months now and you guys have already answered a lot of questions for me...some of them I'd never think to ask.

This is my situation. About 5 years ago I purchased a Dillon 550 progressive reloader and a MEC Jr. reloader from a friend for a VERY reasonable price. They have been boxed up in the basement since then. Recently my son Kris has shown interest in shooting and we have spent lots of time at the sandpit plinking with my AR-15 and M-1 Garand. As a result of shooting more I've become appalled with the current price and availability of ammo. So, I figured it was time to breakout the Dillon 550 and try my hand at reloading.

The Dillon came with 3 heads to reload .38 spl, .357 Mag., and .45 ACP. I also got some powder (still sealed in it's container) and some .45 SWC lead bullets. I've added a Dillon electronic scale and a RCBS case cleaner. I have been cleaning all of the brass that I saved over the years. Currently the brass inventory is about 800 pcs of .223, 150 pcs. of .45 ACP, 300 pcs of .38 spl., 150 pcs. of .357 Mag., and 150 pcs of 30-06.

Now for the questions..What's my best bet for primer pocket cleaning and reaming tools? Is my electronic scale enough or should I add a beam scale to my reloading set up?
What is a good bullet choice for .223 plinking and varmint hunting? My AR-15 is a Colt with a 1/7 20" barrel.

Ivan · December 28, 2009, 10:46 PM

For the primer pocket cleaning tool, get something with a carbide cutter. Steel won't last long enough to bother about. My tool is a Sinclair.

I have a couple "beam" scales, but almost never use them because the electronic (old Lyman) works so well. Just remember to calibrate and zero it EVERY time you use it.

I was getting pretty decent luck with bulk pack 60 grain .224 bullets, but be careful: With that 1/7 twist, bullets with light jackets may come apart if you push them too hard.

- Ivan.

Randy 1911 · December 28, 2009, 11:06 PM

As far as cleaning primer pockets, I never clean pistol pockets. Or on my 223. I think it is a waste of time for plinkng ammo. It is a good idea to do it for precision ammo tho.

As far a powder for the 45acp. I use W231 and a 200 gr. LSWC and 5.3 grs. of powder. For the 38 Spl I use a 158 LSWC and 3.7 grs. of W231, nice and easy to shoot. The best thing about W231 is it is very versitale. It can be used in just about any handgun caliber. It may not be the best, but it will work.

For the scale. A electronic scale will have problems if it is close to a florscent lingt. So you might want to keep that in mind. I personnally use a beam scale because I have a florscent light above my bench.

And by the way, WELCOME to the forum.

mongoose33 · December 29, 2009, 01:01 PM

If your scale is the D-Terminator, I'd expect you to be set. I have that scale and it's stunning. It's not cheap (paid $139 for mine IIRC) but it's dead on.

I bought some check weights to be sure, and I'm just amazed at how accurate the scale is.

It also settles on a weight very quickly, and is sensitive to .1 grain trickling.

As the others have said, you don't really need to do anything to pistol ammo primer pockets. Same w/ .223 unless you're doing some real benchrest stuff.

What you may want to acquire is a way to deal with crimped primer pockets in rifle brass. I have the Dillon Super Swage 600, like it a lot, others have had success with other methods.

dmazur · December 29, 2009, 02:53 PM

I have a 550B also, and I also reload .30-06 for a Garand.

So,

* Make sure the resizing die for the .30-06 is full-length. Neck only dies are also available, and you don't want that for a semi-auto gas gun.
* Sinclair makes a primer pocket tool that cuts on the end only, and stops at its shoulder. This is what is needed to make sure you can seat primers below flush for safe firing in a Garand. (You only have to do this once per case.)
* Check for the correct powder for reloading for a Garand. Too fast or too slow can cause problems, or damage your op-rod or receiver. I believe H4895 is a "Garand approved" powder.
* A cartridge headspace gauge is strongly recommended. It not only helps you set up the resizing die, but also serves as a case trim length gauge.
* You don't have to have a single stage press to do resizing as a separate operation. Lots of reloaders just do it on the 550B, remove the case for trimming/chamfering, and fill a bin. When you have a bin full of "prepped" brass, resume operations on the press. Just index before pulling the handle to skip the resizing die at station 1. Station 2, 3 and 4 (if you have a crimp die) work as usual.

I read somewhere that there's reloading for pistol (easy), then reloading for rifle (more difficult), and then reloading for gas-operated rifles (lots more to check.) So, it isn't that it can't be done, but there are some critical things at the gas-operated end of the spectrum that can cause trouble if they aren't done correctly. Mostly related to guaranteeing that the rounds will chamber without difficulty and that primers are seated below flush, to prevent slamfires or OOB firing.

I recommend you do some searches for "slamfire" to read up on this challenging aspect of reloading...

Good luck!

ColdBore · December 29, 2009, 04:31 PM

There are many factors to reloading. Asking a few questions on forums won't be necessary to cover all the unforseen possibilities that can lead to catastrophic results. When it comes to responsibility and safety protocols, reloading is no different than shooting.
I suggest spending $20-$30 on a decent reloading manual; one that explains step-by-step procedures along with the different variances regarding one caliber to the next. Then you'll have a much clearer understanding of what you are dealing with. Reloading is safe provided the reloader has learned the fundamentals.
Good luck...happy and safe reloading.

Kris' Dad · December 29, 2009, 07:43 PM

Thanks to everyone for their feedback.

A couple things that I didn't make clear in my first post and want to correct now. While I have never reloaded, I have several friends that do reload and I have watched them and picked their brains....I know this simple fact makes me dangerous (just enough knowlege to do something stupid). I also fully appreciate that reloading is very unforgiving to stupidity or ignorance. Honestly, my biggest fear is the stuff that I don't know that I don't know.

At the recommendation of the "For the New Reloaders" sticky, I purchased The ABC's of Reloading and I'm on the second read. I've also spent 3 months reading on this forum. Realisticly, I figure I'm at least 6 months from reloading my first round.

Coldbore-Thanks for the advice...I have no intention of being one of those "don't let this happen to you" examples for everyone else.

dmazur- Thanks for the tips on the Garand. I've already scared the crap out of myself after reading about slamfires.

Randy 1911-Thanks for the load info and the hint on flourescent lights..not sure if I'll get another scale or change my lights.

Ivan-Thanks for the heads-up on the .223. bullets. I've been shooting 55gr. ammo but, after reading some of the posts here it seems my 1/7 barrel is better suited for heavier bullets.

Ronbert · December 29, 2009, 07:55 PM

No need to wait 6 months to get going.

I suggest loading some .357 brass to .38 spl levels and shooting them in a .357 mag gun.
That way you are doing very simple operations and have lots of margin for error (so long as you use powder that's ok to be used in reduced loading).

Once you get the hang of doing pistol then you can better understand the extra steps and additional care for doing rifle.

Ivan · December 30, 2009, 06:03 PM

Hi Kris' Dad,

Your Dillon 550 works quite well as a "Single Stage" press as well. I use spray lube (non-aerosol) and size through my .550 because it seems to get the best consistency that way. After sizing, you need to find a way to clean off the lube before reloading. Just wiping it off will work as will tumbling.

The Sinclair primer pocket reamer dmazur mentioned is the same one I use. It cuts to a fixed depth, so it works to clean too. It just doesn't cut any more brass when you use it after the first time. (At least that is the theory. I find mine still seems to get a little brass every once in a while.)

I suggest you get a single stage press as well. It may not get a lot of use when you finally have the 550 set up, but it will still get used from time to time and doesn't have as many distractions and things to watch for as all the things in motion with a 550.

The advice about starting with pistol reloading first is pretty good. There are fewer things to screw up with a pistol.

Good Luck!
- Ivan.

December 28, 2009, 10:33 PM	#1
Kris' Dad Junior Member Join Date: November 24, 2009 Location: Western Mass. Posts: 2	New Guy Questions Greetings everyone. I've been lurking around this forum for a few months now and you guys have already answered a lot of questions for me...some of them I'd never think to ask. This is my situation. About 5 years ago I purchased a Dillon 550 progressive reloader and a MEC Jr. reloader from a friend for a VERY reasonable price. They have been boxed up in the basement since then. Recently my son Kris has shown interest in shooting and we have spent lots of time at the sandpit plinking with my AR-15 and M-1 Garand. As a result of shooting more I've become appalled with the current price and availability of ammo. So, I figured it was time to breakout the Dillon 550 and try my hand at reloading. The Dillon came with 3 heads to reload .38 spl, .357 Mag., and .45 ACP. I also got some powder (still sealed in it's container) and some .45 SWC lead bullets. I've added a Dillon electronic scale and a RCBS case cleaner. I have been cleaning all of the brass that I saved over the years. Currently the brass inventory is about 800 pcs of .223, 150 pcs. of .45 ACP, 300 pcs of .38 spl., 150 pcs. of .357 Mag., and 150 pcs of 30-06. Now for the questions..What's my best bet for primer pocket cleaning and reaming tools? Is my electronic scale enough or should I add a beam scale to my reloading set up? What is a good bullet choice for .223 plinking and varmint hunting? My AR-15 is a Colt with a 1/7 20" barrel.

December 28, 2009, 11:06 PM	#3
Randy 1911 Senior Member Join Date: May 7, 2009 Location: Western Arkansas Posts: 273	As far as cleaning primer pockets, I never clean pistol pockets. Or on my 223. I think it is a waste of time for plinkng ammo. It is a good idea to do it for precision ammo tho. As far a powder for the 45acp. I use W231 and a 200 gr. LSWC and 5.3 grs. of powder. For the 38 Spl I use a 158 LSWC and 3.7 grs. of W231, nice and easy to shoot. The best thing about W231 is it is very versitale. It can be used in just about any handgun caliber. It may not be the best, but it will work. For the scale. A electronic scale will have problems if it is close to a florscent lingt. So you might want to keep that in mind. I personnally use a beam scale because I have a florscent light above my bench. And by the way, WELCOME to the forum. __________________ Been Reloading 27 Years NRA Member Member Old Fort Gun Club www.ofgc.org

December 29, 2009, 02:53 PM	#5
dmazur Senior Member Join Date: July 5, 2007 Location: Pacific NW Posts: 1,310	I have a 550B also, and I also reload .30-06 for a Garand. So, * Make sure the resizing die for the .30-06 is full-length. Neck only dies are also available, and you don't want that for a semi-auto gas gun. * Sinclair makes a primer pocket tool that cuts on the end only, and stops at its shoulder. This is what is needed to make sure you can seat primers below flush for safe firing in a Garand. (You only have to do this once per case.) * Check for the correct powder for reloading for a Garand. Too fast or too slow can cause problems, or damage your op-rod or receiver. I believe H4895 is a "Garand approved" powder. * A cartridge headspace gauge is strongly recommended. It not only helps you set up the resizing die, but also serves as a case trim length gauge. * You don't have to have a single stage press to do resizing as a separate operation. Lots of reloaders just do it on the 550B, remove the case for trimming/chamfering, and fill a bin. When you have a bin full of "prepped" brass, resume operations on the press. Just index before pulling the handle to skip the resizing die at station 1. Station 2, 3 and 4 (if you have a crimp die) work as usual. I read somewhere that there's reloading for pistol (easy), then reloading for rifle (more difficult), and then reloading for gas-operated rifles (lots more to check.) So, it isn't that it can't be done, but there are some critical things at the gas-operated end of the spectrum that can cause trouble if they aren't done correctly. Mostly related to guaranteeing that the rounds will chamber without difficulty and that primers are seated below flush, to prevent slamfires or OOB firing. I recommend you do some searches for "slamfire" to read up on this challenging aspect of reloading... Good luck! __________________ .30-06 Springfield: 100 yrs + and still going strong

December 29, 2009, 04:31 PM	#6
ColdBore Member Join Date: December 9, 2009 Location: Inland Empire, Ca. Posts: 25	Take the safest option There are many factors to reloading. Asking a few questions on forums won't be necessary to cover all the unforseen possibilities that can lead to catastrophic results. When it comes to responsibility and safety protocols, reloading is no different than shooting. I suggest spending $20-$30 on a decent reloading manual; one that explains step-by-step procedures along with the different variances regarding one caliber to the next. Then you'll have a much clearer understanding of what you are dealing with. Reloading is safe provided the reloader has learned the fundamentals. Good luck...happy and safe reloading.

December 28, 2009, 10:46 PM	#2
Ivan Senior Member Join Date: October 14, 2009 Posts: 141	For the primer pocket cleaning tool, get something with a carbide cutter. Steel won't last long enough to bother about. My tool is a Sinclair. I have a couple "beam" scales, but almost never use them because the electronic (old Lyman) works so well. Just remember to calibrate and zero it EVERY time you use it. I was getting pretty decent luck with bulk pack 60 grain .224 bullets, but be careful: With that 1/7 twist, bullets with light jackets may come apart if you push them too hard. - Ivan.

December 29, 2009, 01:01 PM	#4
mongoose33 Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2009 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 228	If your scale is the D-Terminator, I'd expect you to be set. I have that scale and it's stunning. It's not cheap (paid $139 for mine IIRC) but it's dead on. I bought some check weights to be sure, and I'm just amazed at how accurate the scale is. It also settles on a weight very quickly, and is sensitive to .1 grain trickling. As the others have said, you don't really need to do anything to pistol ammo primer pockets. Same w/ .223 unless you're doing some real benchrest stuff. What you may want to acquire is a way to deal with crimped primer pockets in rifle brass. I have the Dillon Super Swage 600, like it a lot, others have had success with other methods.

December 29, 2009, 07:43 PM	#7
Kris' Dad Junior Member Join Date: November 24, 2009 Location: Western Mass. Posts: 2	Thanks to everyone for their feedback. A couple things that I didn't make clear in my first post and want to correct now. While I have never reloaded, I have several friends that do reload and I have watched them and picked their brains....I know this simple fact makes me dangerous (just enough knowlege to do something stupid). I also fully appreciate that reloading is very unforgiving to stupidity or ignorance. Honestly, my biggest fear is the stuff that I don't know that I don't know. At the recommendation of the "For the New Reloaders" sticky, I purchased The ABC's of Reloading and I'm on the second read. I've also spent 3 months reading on this forum. Realisticly, I figure I'm at least 6 months from reloading my first round. Coldbore-Thanks for the advice...I have no intention of being one of those "don't let this happen to you" examples for everyone else. dmazur- Thanks for the tips on the Garand. I've already scared the crap out of myself after reading about slamfires. Randy 1911-Thanks for the load info and the hint on flourescent lights..not sure if I'll get another scale or change my lights. Ivan-Thanks for the heads-up on the .223. bullets. I've been shooting 55gr. ammo but, after reading some of the posts here it seems my 1/7 barrel is better suited for heavier bullets.

December 29, 2009, 07:55 PM	#8
Ronbert Senior Member Join Date: September 23, 2009 Location: Ft. Collins, CO. Posts: 398	No need to wait 6 months to get going. I suggest loading some .357 brass to .38 spl levels and shooting them in a .357 mag gun. That way you are doing very simple operations and have lots of margin for error (so long as you use powder that's ok to be used in reduced loading). Once you get the hang of doing pistol then you can better understand the extra steps and additional care for doing rifle.

December 30, 2009, 06:03 PM	#9
Ivan Senior Member Join Date: October 14, 2009 Posts: 141	Hi Kris' Dad, Your Dillon 550 works quite well as a "Single Stage" press as well. I use spray lube (non-aerosol) and size through my .550 because it seems to get the best consistency that way. After sizing, you need to find a way to clean off the lube before reloading. Just wiping it off will work as will tumbling. The Sinclair primer pocket reamer dmazur mentioned is the same one I use. It cuts to a fixed depth, so it works to clean too. It just doesn't cut any more brass when you use it after the first time. (At least that is the theory. I find mine still seems to get a little brass every once in a while.) I suggest you get a single stage press as well. It may not get a lot of use when you finally have the 550 set up, but it will still get used from time to time and doesn't have as many distractions and things to watch for as all the things in motion with a 550. The advice about starting with pistol reloading first is pretty good. There are fewer things to screw up with a pistol. Good Luck! - Ivan.