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June 26, 2018, 01:21 PM | #26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: July 22, 2010
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,286
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*blushes* I meant to say “double action vs. semi auto”... I know there are competition shooters that are amazing at firing rapidly and accurately. Awesome skills. But with my skills, when I was bumbling around at Club Bullseye League, I shot vastly better scores with semi-autos when I had to do the rapid fire portion.
As I identify myself as a mostly revolver guy... let’s just say “when it comes to pray and spray, semi-autos spray more easier.” But then, my goal is to hit what I aimed at which is a whole other thing. I love you guys. Thanks for calling me out. |
June 26, 2018, 03:01 PM | #27 |
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Join Date: August 31, 2002
Location: Deep in the Heart of the Lone Star State (TX)
Posts: 2,169
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I'm going to be a little contrary here......but, for your first revolver, you should consider a single-action revolver. You can find good deals on the medium frame Ruger Blackhawk or New Vaquero Convertible revolvers in .357 Magnum & 9mm. And it will teach you to slow down and make each shot count....a lesson that's hard to learn on a semiautomatic pistol.
....and, if you throw a .22lr SA revolver in the mix, you'll have tons of fun! Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk |
June 26, 2018, 03:22 PM | #28 |
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Join Date: April 13, 2013
Location: N. Georgia
Posts: 1,150
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Double action revolver shooting requires time and repetition.
Skill and speed comes from a lot of practice. But let us look at auto shooting and training. I advocate for novices to load only one or two rounds in a magazine at a time. Learn to shoot those rounds well. Besides learning to shoot slow first it forces a would-be auto user to repeat his loading and reloading and manipulation of his auto many times. Good to excellent motor skills, whether revolver or auto, come from repetition and the building of motor skills, hopefully using ambidextrous methods as well. (Lefties are usually more ambi than righties because of the world they must adapt to.) |
June 26, 2018, 05:21 PM | #29 |
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Join Date: February 28, 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,618
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Punching holes in paper is one thing, but when the extra power is needed
then a revolver is the way to go! |
June 30, 2018, 10:36 PM | #30 |
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Join Date: April 28, 2001
Location: CA
Posts: 1,742
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686 vs GP100. Both great guns. I don't like the newer smiths with safety lock. If you find a pre lock, no brainer, get the 686. 357 is the way to go so you can shoot 38s or 357s interchangeably. rc
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June 30, 2018, 11:34 PM | #31 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 28, 2001
Location: CA
Posts: 1,742
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686 vs GP100. Both great guns. I don't like the newer smiths with safety lock. If you find a pre lock, no brainer, get the 686. 357 is the way to go so you can shoot 38s or 357s interchangeably. rc
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July 1, 2018, 05:33 AM | #32 |
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Join Date: January 22, 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 3,619
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I agree on the looks of Ruger vs. S&W...the former just looks clunky to me while the latter pretty much defines the classic DA revolver. But as we all know, beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder...and some really go for the DA Rugers...go figgur.
For concealed carry, the J-frame works well for me, my wife, and two daughters-in-law. The ladies all carry Smith 637's (and have no drawing issues with the exposed hammers)...it's an airweight with a 1-7/8" bbl., and all of ours are equipped with Crimson Trace grips. Those grips are the best feel I've ever found in a J-frame revolver, and the laser has been very useful in diagnosing trigger manipulation problems. Expensive yes, but very useful. Personally, I like a bit more barrel, and prefer the M60 with adjustable sights and a 3" tube. Smith currently makes this gun in a couple of formats, but for me it's the old round barrel or nothing. Mine's superbly accurate...~2" groups at 25 yds with favored handloads or Remington .357 125 gr Golden Saber HP's. But for the most part I train with and carry here on the farm, 158 gr LSWC's that I cast my self. The M60 is no featherweight and when combined with a 3" bbl., I find an OWB holster necessary in warmer weather. Winter parkas etc., might allow pocket carry, however. But for sheer love of the revolver, in a gun that will meet all needs, on a sunny afternoon at the range or a dark country road/big city alley, nothing beats a Smith M19 or M66 with a 4" bbl. S&W built its reputation on the smooth, non-stacking quality of its DA K frame revolvers as well as their superb SA triggers. It's a very rare Smith that comes from the factory with anything short of the above and if so, they'll make it right. I currently have two M19's, a 4" as well as a 6", and find that I carry the 4" almost exclusively. Working around the farm, it's sight radius is perfect for any chore a handgun can accomplish, and that bbl. length sits well on any conveyance I happen to be forking: horseback, tractor, lawn mower, car, and even my bike. The 6" is a range toy, pure and simple, due to its longer barrel...it's just not comfortable to carry. YMMV, but if I were to buy one gun to do it all, in any climate here on God's green earth, it'd be a Smith M66...and one of the older ones after a good look-see to make sure its timing is ok, and that there is no undue wear around the bbl's. forcing cone. While some like fixed sights, I've always found Smith's adjustable rear sight to be rugged enough for any carry purpose short of hammering in fence staples. And it makes sighting in to one's personal preferences easy as pie. Light for their power, .357 Smith K frames do it all. But if you're looking more for a range toy, the 686 with its great weight and full lugged bbl. may fill the bill. Me...I don't need any add'l weight on the belt when carrying and the minute add'l sighting steadiness just doesn't trump the comfort issues. Get a good holster & mount up with a 4" Smith K-frame, and you'll not be unhappy... HTH's Rod
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