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September 1, 2007, 06:11 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: April 6, 2007
Location: Fort Worth, TX, U.S.A.
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Remington 870 stock and fore-end instructions..
Hi,
I'm looking for step-by-step instructions for replacing my Remington 870 Express wood stock and fore-end with synthetic. Any leads would be mucho appreciated! Thanks in advance. |
September 1, 2007, 06:34 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 4, 2001
Posts: 7,478
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To remove the butt stock.
Get a smaller size Phillips screwdriver and apply a coat of soap to the shank. On the top and bottom of the rubber pad you'll see tiny holes. Insert the screwdriver into each hole and unscrew the screw that's inside. (The soap prevents tearing the hole out). Once the pad is off, use a LARGE long shank screw driver with a flat bit to unscrew the stock bolt. BE CAREFUL. If the screwdriver slides out of the screw slot, the screwdriver can break out the side of the stock. Some people wrap a thick wrap of tape around the shank of the screwdriver to keep it centered in the hole and on the screw slot. To install the new stock simply reverse. Note that most wood stocks have a flat steel spacer between the stock and the receiver. This is NOT needed or used on synthetic stocks. To remove the fore end. To remove the fore end you'll need to unscrew the smooth nut on the front end of the action bar assembly, just inside the front of the fore end. This large nut is smooth and has two notches for a spanner to fit. You'll need to either buy or make a spanner wrench. Commercial wrench's are a tubular design with lugs that fit the notches. Here's one at Midway USA: http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...227&t=11082005 You can make an expedient wrench by cutting a section of 1/8" steel strip that will fit between the two notches on the nut. Grip the steel strip with a pair of Vise-Grips and unscrew the nut. WARNING: Some people will recommend using a pair of needle-nose pliers as a spanner to unscrew the nut. One slip and you'll damage the thin steel tube of the action bar assembly and will have to buy a new assembly. With the nut unscrewed, the fore end slides forward an off the action bar assembly. Install the new fore end the reverse. |
September 1, 2007, 07:20 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: April 6, 2007
Location: Fort Worth, TX, U.S.A.
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Wow! Great info, DF! Thanks!
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September 1, 2007, 11:19 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: March 5, 2001
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Just be aware, sometimes you need to beat the forestock off the action bar assembly. If it slips off, you are lucky. Be careful not to damage the forestock getting it off.
When it comes to shotguns DF is an amazing reference machine.
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September 2, 2007, 12:34 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: April 6, 2007
Location: Fort Worth, TX, U.S.A.
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'Preciate the input, AA.
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September 2, 2007, 01:18 PM | #6 |
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Location: mid tennessee
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just a tip,dont need a spanner wrench with a butter knife handy!
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We all love gun p*rn, weather shes skinny,fat,short or tall, God made a man to love them all! "Once you familiarize yourself with the chains of bondage , You prepare your own limbs to wear them." - Abraham Lincoln |
September 5, 2007, 09:53 AM | #7 |
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Location: Fort Worth, TX, U.S.A.
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Well, that would save me a few bucks, SB.
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September 5, 2007, 10:30 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: September 4, 2007
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I made my own spanner wrench out of a piece of thin walled kitchen sink drain pipe. They are available at any home store for just a couple bucks and are the same diameter as the lock ring. I just cut the tube with a dremel so that there are two square notches proturding from one end. Its taken off many 870 lock rings over the years and cost next to nothing.
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--------------------------------------------------- A good plan, violently executed now, is better than a perfect plan next week. George S. Patton --------------------------------------------------- |
September 5, 2007, 11:38 AM | #9 |
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Join Date: March 5, 2001
Posts: 379
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This forend wrench is awesome:
http://www.brownells.com/Images/Products/590016008.jpg I can be used with the forend installed on the gun (need to remove barrel) It is available here: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sto...+FOREND+WRENCH
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September 5, 2007, 01:21 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: April 25, 2007
Location: Sunny South Florida
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Déj�* vu
Déj�* vu,I could have sworn I'd seen this same exact thread about 2 weeks ago.
Maybe it's a common question or I just spend too much time on forums.
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July 25, 2008, 06:07 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: July 25, 2008
Posts: 36
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To remove the recoil pad from the butt stock, is it always a phillips screw driver or could it be the flatheaded or some other variety? I placed a phillips down there, and it didn't want to turn.
KP |
July 25, 2008, 06:44 PM | #12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 4, 2001
Posts: 7,478
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Remington has always used Phillips head pad screws.
It may have been replaced by a previous owner, or you're using the wrong size Phillips driver. |
July 25, 2008, 06:49 PM | #13 |
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Join Date: July 25, 2008
Posts: 36
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I'm the original owner, so I'll try a different sized phillips head.
Thx, KP |
July 29, 2008, 04:09 PM | #14 |
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Join Date: July 25, 2008
Posts: 36
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That worked.
Thx, KP |
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