Removing a scope ramp from a 1911 slide

[horseman308]

I just got a Springfield 1911 that had been tricked out for bulls eye, including with a scope ramp. The two screws came out easy enough, but the ramp is still stuck fast. I have no idea what else might be holding it on. I presume some form of epoxy, JB Weld, or something similar. I've tried a couple things to remove it. I padded the slide, put it in a vise, and heated the ramp gently with a torch. It didn't budge when hitting it (modestly) with a non-marring mallet or when applying torque to the ramp with a pair of vise-grips.

I'm pretty certain I'll need a gunsmith to remove the ramp - not to mention putting iron sights back on. Before I do, has anyone got any other ideas how I might remove a stuck ramp without destroying the slide?

If not, any recommendations for a good gunsmith in the MD/VA area.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[Unclenick]

A photo or two would help. If it has been put on with red Loctite, it has to be heated to about 250°F to get it off, IIRC. If you have an IR thermometer, that would be one way to tell if it is hot enough. If you are using a hot air gun, you might take the surface to 300°F to get it loose. Leaving it in the oven at that temperature for an hour would also do it.

[horseman308]

Here are a couple pics. I used a butane torch (the basic kind you get from Lowe's), but I didn't try to get it super hot, as I didn't really know how far to take it. It was hot enough that I couldn't hold it long, but could touch it briefly. Sounds like that wasn't hot enough.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[Smoke & Recoil]

You might want to remove the slide and have a look under for more screws.

[horseman308]

Originally Posted by Smoke & Recoil

You might want to remove the slide and have a look under for more screws.

I'll double check. I'm fairly certain there were only two, but I've been wrong before. In fact, it was only just the other day!

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[Smoke & Recoil]

Also from the top, check for double screws...that's an old set-screw trick.

[horseman308]

Originally Posted by Smoke & Recoil

Also from the top, check for double screws...that's an old set-screw trick.

As in, some screwed in from the top of the ramp and a second set screwed in from the inside (up i to the bottom of the ramp)?

I'll double check now. That would be sneaky.

Edit: I did inf fact find two more screws. The heads are a little stripped, so I'm gonna be careful about removing them, but thanks for the push.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[Smoke & Recoil]

A drill press can aid in removing the screws...chuck the proper screw bit in drill press a apply downward force on the screw...but turn the chuck by hand.

[horseman308]

Originally Posted by Smoke & Recoil

A drill press can aid in removing the screws...chuck the proper screw bit in drill press a apply downward force on the screw...but turn the chuck by hand.

Cool trick. I'll give that a try. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[Scorch]

I would bet it's epoxied or LocTited onto the slide. Heat up the rail until it lets go.

[Classic12]

I cringe thinking how the slide will look beneath that rail.

[Drm50]

Take slide off and put in container of transmission fluid over night. This will usually separate base from slide. You will usually then have the bonding material on slide. I used popsicle sticks cut square with dikes to use as chisel to knock epoxy / JB weld off gun metal. That appears to be a Weaver base made from aircraft aluminum. Unless the bottom of base was roughed up it should release easily from slide in fluid.

[T. O'Heir]

"...didn't try to get it super hot..." Just the fact the rail didn't melt or catch fire is a good thing. Means it's metal at least. Does a magnet stick to the rail?
Propane burns hotter than butane. It might work better.
"...heads are a little stripped..." That means you probably need to drill 'em out. Not as difficult as it sounds. Easy if you have a drill press.
"...epoxy/JB weld off gun metal..." Vinegar or nail polish remover loosens both. JB Weld is epoxy based putty. Discussed on the 'adhere's to fibreglass' post above.

[HiBC]

Steel and aluminum have different co-efficients of expansion.Your deep freeze may stress the joint,too.

Not to bum you out,but screws allow movement. If I was mounting that base for myself,I'd probably incorporate a pair of 1/8 in dowel pins. So,you might have a total of six holes in the top of your slide.and sideways whacking may not be helpful. The screws that thread up from inside the slide,their threads are in the scope base.
If you were to thread some longer screws into those holes,you could apply a punch to the long screws.

BoMar used to make a rib for 1911 target pistols that incorporated target sights.
An old school rear sight conversion involves fitting a S+W K frame revolver sight to the 1911 slide via a slot milled in the slide top center from the ejection port back. The xample I have actually has some ears TIG welded up at the rear of the slide straddling the K-frame sight,so it looks like it grew there.not unlike it would look on a revolver. That might hide a couple of holes. I suppose you could continue the appearance of the S+W sight as a rib,like a shotgun rib.Mill a shallow slot for a seat. Maybe Hi-Force 44 the rib in the slot . Or,TIG the holes away!
I'm just brainstorming what to do with all the holes!!

A Springfield or,Caspian Slide might cost some money but it would be a good fix.

[4V50 Gary]

Good suggerstions have been made.

Look at the slide from the inside for indication of other drills.
Heat may be needed to separate the rib from the slide.

[Scorch]

Probably no screws from the inside, they would thread into the aluminum rail which would strip easily. Probably have at least two locator pins to keep the rail and scope from shearing the screws. But get the rail off first. Get the screws out, then heat the rail until it lets go. Then TIG the holes and repair the slide afterwards.

[stagpanther]

Long long ago I had a gunsmith install the same mount on a ruger Blackhawk--one reason I steer away from aluminum bases if at all possible. When I finally changed my mind and got rid of the mount I found I had to drill out the screws because when the holes were first drilled and tapped into the gun they were not perfectly aligned to the holes in the mount, which basically created a torque lock with the mount over time.

[horseman308]

Victory! There's a film of epoxy or some such over the top and filling the whole dovetail, but there was no actual damage to the slide. I simply missed two screws that looked more like empty holes. A few seconds with the torch loosened them up nicely. I don't think filing the epoxy out.of the dovetail will be too bad.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[stinkeypete]

What is your goal in removing the top rail?

A “tricked out” bullseye gun will have the slide to rail fit hand lapped or the slide will be “welded up” then hand lapped (probably the case with a Springfield.) Tight rail fit is part of accurizing. You don’t get 2” groups at 50 yards without compromises- run that gun wet (break free on the rails) and keep it meticulously clean or it will act up.

It’s probably got it’s feed ramp cut for wadcutters. It will still feed ball, but someone spent money so it will feed target wadcutters.


The top rail stiffens the slide and adds mass. The Ultradot on top adds mass.
The extra weight is there to tame recoil and get rapid fire scores up. Bullseye rapid fire is a shot every 2 seconds. Someone spent money for that.

With all that extra weight up to and designed to shoot target wadcutters, you’ll want to replace the spring, esp if running ammo hotter than target wadcutters or the slide will batter the frame.

Someone spent a lot of money to get that trigger as light and crisp as allowed by competition rules.

Before you go too far consider that you might be trying to make a race horse in to a tractor.

[HiBC]

You fly your Enterprise any way you want to,OP. I'm not all that well versed in optic equipt 1911 ,s. The ones I've looked at were either RMR type mini-red dots,if slide mounted,or they were frame mounted if a C-More or red dot But,its not my problem.

I just want to tell you I was once handed a fancy Win Hi-wall clone with a high grade,figured walnut splinter forend. The forend had been Accra-Glas'd to the original tapered octagon barrel. A heavier tapered octagon barrel had been installed ,finished,and blued. But the forend had not been opened up.
I had not done any of this work,but I was asked to remove the Accra-Glas and fit the forend. HMM. The mill was out. No geometric shape to hold or set up on.
My local "Do It Best " Hardware had some brand of aircraft epoxy paint stripper gel on the shelf.

It was slow going,I'd paint it on the epoxy,wait. It would get like a well-sucked Slo-Poke taffy candy bar..soft and sticky. A tongue depressor scraper would remove the goo. Then another coat. I was able to chemically remove the Accra-Glas from the walnut.

You might find a soak in Aircraft grade epoxy paint stripper useful.

[horseman308]

Originally Posted by stinkeypete

What is your goal in removing the top rail?

A “tricked out” bullseye gun will have the slide to rail fit hand lapped or the slide will be “welded up” then hand lapped (probably the case with a Springfield.) Tight rail fit is part of accurizing. You don’t get 2” groups at 50 yards without compromises- run that gun wet (break free on the rails) and keep it meticulously clean or it will act up.

It’s probably got it’s feed ramp cut for wadcutters. It will still feed ball, but someone spent money so it will feed target wadcutters.


The top rail stiffens the slide and adds mass. The Ultradot on top adds mass.
The extra weight is there to tame recoil and get rapid fire scores up. Bullseye rapid fire is a shot every 2 seconds. Someone spent money for that.

With all that extra weight up to and designed to shoot target wadcutters, you’ll want to replace the spring, esp if running ammo hotter than target wadcutters or the slide will batter the frame.

Someone spent a lot of money to get that trigger as light and crisp as allowed by competition rules.

Before you go too far consider that you might be trying to make a race horse in to a tractor.

I appreciate the caution. That someone was my father. He never actually ended up putting a scope on it or competing. So, it is a bit of a race horse. I'm not looking to make it a tractor, exactly, but something more like a nice truck.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[T. O'Heir]

"...Victory!..." YAAAAY! Looks like it might not be epoxy though. That'd fill the screw holes in solid.
"...epoxy out of the dovetail..." Heat.
You have any idea what thread the screws were? If they're the same as scope base screws, you can buy plugs. Brownell's will have 'em.

[Scorch]

You have any idea what thread the screws were? If they're the same as scope base screws, you can buy plugs.

You can buy plug screws no matter what thread they are. An industrial fastener supply store will be your friend.

[stinkeypete]

I'm not looking to make it a tractor, exactly, but something more like a nice truck.

You'll want to get yourself a 16 pound spring from Wolf, which is the sorta "do all starting value factor stock" spring weight.. about $8.00
https://www.gunsprings.com/COLT/1911...cID1/mID1/dID1

Once you get the dovetail cleaned out, I'd suggest a nice adjustable rear sight. The gun deserves it- it's going to be accurate. The complication may be the dimensions of the dovetail and front sight- that will be a bit of a search or... just call the nice people at Springfield for parts.

[Aguila Blanca]

Originally Posted by stinkeypete

Once you get the dovetail cleaned out, I'd suggest a nice adjustable rear sight. The gun deserves it- it's going to be accurate. The complication may be the dimensions of the dovetail and front sight- that will be a bit of a search or... just call the nice people at Springfield for parts.

LPA makes (or used to make) a nice, adjustable rear sight that fit the GI dovetail cut on 1911s. I'm not sure whether or not Springfield uses a GI dovetail cut, but I think they do.

http://www.lpasights.com/en/prod/pistols/

[Edit to add] I thought Brownells had dropped the LPA sights, but they do still have them:
https://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...18-155615.aspx