Suppressor Newbie With Ammo and Can Questions

Lurch37 · August 26, 2009, 08:44 PM

I'm new to the suppressor scene and can't quit smiling every time I go shooting. I do have some questions though and would appreciate and help and/or ideas from the more experienced guys.

1. I have a YHM Stainless Mite and before shooting it the first time, I applied the anti-seize as per instructions on the threaded portion thats screws into the tube itself. After shooting 300 or so rounds I could not get it apart when I got home. I went back out today and got the can hot again and tried taking it apart at the range, and of course I got nothing. So, is there something I can do to get it apart to clean or is cleaning that big of deal. No matter what it would be nice to be able to disassemble the thing.

2. I'm using a Walther P22 and was wondering if anyone has some suggestions as to Sub-Sonic ammo. I tried some CCI CB Long and they wouldn't cycle. They run in the 710 fps compared to the Federal bulk at 1280 fps and CCI Mini-Mag at 1235 fps. Also, are there aftermarket recoil springs that a guy can change to shoot sub-sonic ammo.

3. I'm also using a Sig Mosquito and it feeds both the Federal and the Mini-Mag well. I read another post that recommended Remington Green Box Sub-Sonic and was wondering if that works well. I did get the two springs with the Sig, but neither was painted so I am using what looks to me like the "lighter" spring.

Thanks!

Zak Smith · August 26, 2009, 10:32 PM

I can't help on #1. My tendency would be to soak the end in oil and then get a good grip on it to unscrew, but your best bet is to contact the manufacturer and ask.

For subsonic, I have found that much "normal" .22LR ammo is subsonic from a pistol anyway. However, the Remington sub-sonic .22LR has worked well for me.

-z

David Hineline · August 27, 2009, 02:19 AM

None of that ammo you are shooting is going supersonic out of the short P22 barrel assuming you did not get the long model with the fake compensator.

Remington subsonic is crap and some rounds will be quite noisy as a weak load will fail to seal the chamber when fired and more noise will come from the ejection port than does the muzzle.

CCI minimags would work fine as do most of the bulk pack ammos in the P22

The Mosquito is going to be ammo picky, good luch finding something that works.

Try some CCI Stingers or Velocitors and you will see what supersonic ammo sounds like from your silencer then you will appreciate what you have been shooting.

Lurch37 · August 27, 2009, 05:52 PM

Hey Zak & David thanks for the ideas. I'm going to try that Remington stuff just to see if it works. As for the Sig, it feeds both CCI Mini-Mags and the cheap Federal bulk stuff very well. The Walther doesn't seem to care what I feed it either. Right now I'm more concerned about needing to clean the can or not to worry about it. I'm going to give YHM a call tomorrow and see what they say about cleaning and also how to get the thing apart.

hknut · August 27, 2009, 07:42 PM

I use the Sniper Sub Sonic ammo in my Walther all the time and it runs great. Alittle more expensive, but woth it in time not cycling the slide. Good luck.

Legion2600 · August 27, 2009, 10:38 PM

Yea, most stuff is gonna already be sub-sonic out of the P-22. If you can find some give the Eley and Lapua subs a spin. VERY quiet.

Superhouse 15 · August 28, 2009, 06:33 AM

Be careful using SSS amo in your can. Might not stabilize and give you a baffle strike. Some manufacturers specifically say shooting it in their can will void your warranty.

jmorris · August 28, 2009, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Be careful using SSS amo in your can. Might not stabilize and give you a baffle strike.

Good advice, I always shoot ammo (at paper) without the suppressor first to make sure it's not making key holes.

Lurch37 · August 28, 2009, 12:47 PM

Superhouse 15, I never thought about that. Are you saying just Sniper Sub Sonic or any kind ? I'll ask them about that when I call today and see what they say.

Legion2600 · August 28, 2009, 11:45 PM

The SSS is a 60 grain bullet and is prone to become unstable once leaving a standard twist barrel. Not really a problem when being used up and close without suppressor. Could lead to baffle strikes in a suppressor. This is why most use a 1:9 twist barrel when using this round. Tactical Innovations sells these barrels for the 10/22. Great round for varmints like rats & squirrels.

Lurch37 · August 30, 2009, 12:17 PM

Legion2600, thanks for the input. I have never seen that particular brand of ammo but it gives me something to search for. I have a Ruger 22/45 on layaway and will be ordering one of those Pac-Lite barrels for it and to use with my can. Thanks!

hknut · August 30, 2009, 09:13 PM

I have shot the SSS out of 2 different Bowers design cans without any problems.

Superhouse 15 · August 31, 2009, 09:47 PM

I shot the SSS in an integral 10/22 and it was fine. Tried it in a S&W 2213 and it keyholed. I can only imagine the damage it would do to the innards of a can on that gun. Not suppressor related, but SSS is one of the few loads that doesn't keyhole in my NAA mini revolver.

Yellowfin · September 1, 2009, 09:33 AM

I'm told brake cleaner is a very good way to clean your suppressor.

hknut · September 8, 2009, 02:57 AM

A sealed can can be cleaned with a mixture of 50% ATF (auto trans fluid) and 50% mineral spirits. Seal the can in a tupperware container and shake. Then let drain and dry for a day.

Mike40-11 · September 24, 2009, 08:19 PM

May be able to get it apart with heat. If and when you do, use a hi-temp copper flake anti-seize next time. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBIDO2 I use it on 500+ degree molding machine components.

Lurch37 · September 24, 2009, 08:28 PM

I appreciate all the ideas and wanted to say thanks. I did eventually call YHM and was told to send it in. The guy was nice and all and told me it did need to be cleaned everytime. I told hiim I used the anti-seize that was shipped with the suppressor and I only hand tightened it so I was frustrated that it is now impossible for me to get it apart. I asked about using a strap wrench and was told to make sure not to get too carried away and dent the outside of the can. I did try with a lightweight strap wrench to no avail.

The can is now soaking in a jar full of Kroil and I do see some flakes of junk it the bottom of the jar. I think I will do this after every shooting session until maybe like once a year or so I will send it in and have them clean it up. The guy said it would be a 2 week turn around.

MartinR · October 2, 2009, 08:09 PM

I've also got a YHM Mite and like it, but it does seem to need to be cleaned after shooting much.

Consider trying a heavier duty strap wrench.

One method I have used on other tight threaded items is to put a piece of ice on the inner portion and apply heat to the outside tube (gentle use of propane torch, lighter, etc.). The idea is to allow the outer metal to expand and the inner metal to contract enough to make it easier to twist off.

Good luck.

gyvel · October 4, 2009, 11:29 AM

You might want to try this as a penetrant:

100% PURE, NATURAL wintergreen oil, which you can get at any health food store (not "Walgreens").

This was revealed to me by an old time gunsmith that some of you older guys might recognize and has performed far better than any other penetrant I have ever used.

For really stubborn applications, put a few drops to whatever is stuck, apply mild heat and watch the oil get sucked into the threads.

cougar gt-e · October 5, 2009, 09:09 AM

Kroil is one of the best penetrants money can buy. The only one better
(IMHO) is the stuff GM sells (heat pipe lubricant and rust remover or some
such name). It's in a blue can and sells for about 10 bucks for 12or 16oz.

I'd also say to use the copper antiseeze, but the regular aluminum flake should
have performed, unless you shot so much it got too hot to touch without
getting a blister. Then again, I slather the stuff on. Did you use a bunch or just a dab?

Lurch37 · October 11, 2009, 12:00 PM

Hello again, and thanks for all the input and ideas. I just wanted to let you guys know what I did to finally get my can apart in an effort to clean it up.

Due to some Nosy Nellies, I was reluctant to take the can to work but I finally did, and during the lunch hour a trusted friend and I used a impact and allen socket to remove the stuck end from the can. After a few blips of the impact with the friend holding the can, the threads finally broke free and unthreaded, allowing me to clean the baffles and inside of the can.

I must comment that it was a somewhat gooey mess inside, and I attribute that to the waxy .22 ammo and also possibly, the soaking of the entire can in the jar of Kroil. I found no evidence that any Kroil had seeped into the threads or disssolved any of the residue from inside the can or baffles.

This is most certainly not a slam against Kroil as I use it almost daily to break free frozen nut/bolts, steam fittings, pipe joints, etc.

I will use a different anti-seize next time and see if that improves my chances of disassembly without having to resort to power tools.

Thanks!

August 26, 2009, 10:32 PM	#2
Zak Smith Senior Member Join Date: December 12, 1999 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado, USA Posts: 2,682	I can't help on #1. My tendency would be to soak the end in oil and then get a good grip on it to unscrew, but your best bet is to contact the manufacturer and ask. For subsonic, I have found that much "normal" .22LR ammo is subsonic from a pistol anyway. However, the Remington sub-sonic .22LR has worked well for me. -z __________________ Zak Smith . DEMIGOD LLC . THUNDER BEAST ARMS CORP . COLORADO MULTI-GUN *My PM inbox full? Send e-mail instead.*

August 27, 2009, 05:52 PM	#4
Lurch37 Senior Member Join Date: August 6, 2006 Location: Middle of Nebraska Posts: 941	Hey Zak & David thanks for the ideas. I'm going to try that Remington stuff just to see if it works. As for the Sig, it feeds both CCI Mini-Mags and the cheap Federal bulk stuff very well. The Walther doesn't seem to care what I feed it either. Right now I'm more concerned about needing to clean the can or not to worry about it. I'm going to give YHM a call tomorrow and see what they say about cleaning and also how to get the thing apart. __________________ I reject your reality and substitute my own.

August 27, 2009, 07:42 PM	#5
hknut Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2005 Location: Olympia, Wa. Posts: 535	I use the Sniper Sub Sonic ammo in my Walther all the time and it runs great. Alittle more expensive, but woth it in time not cycling the slide. Good luck. __________________ "Gun control is like trying to reduce Drunk Driving by making it tougher for sober people to own cars" Walk softly and carry a big SIG.

August 28, 2009, 12:47 PM	#9
Lurch37 Senior Member Join Date: August 6, 2006 Location: Middle of Nebraska Posts: 941	Superhouse 15, I never thought about that. Are you saying just Sniper Sub Sonic or any kind ? I'll ask them about that when I call today and see what they say. __________________ I reject your reality and substitute my own.

August 30, 2009, 12:17 PM	#11
Lurch37 Senior Member Join Date: August 6, 2006 Location: Middle of Nebraska Posts: 941	Legion2600, thanks for the input. I have never seen that particular brand of ammo but it gives me something to search for. I have a Ruger 22/45 on layaway and will be ordering one of those Pac-Lite barrels for it and to use with my can. Thanks! __________________ I reject your reality and substitute my own.

August 26, 2009, 08:44 PM	#1
Lurch37 Senior Member Join Date: August 6, 2006 Location: Middle of Nebraska Posts: 941	Suppressor Newbie With Ammo and Can Questions I'm new to the suppressor scene and can't quit smiling every time I go shooting. I do have some questions though and would appreciate and help and/or ideas from the more experienced guys. 1. I have a YHM Stainless Mite and before shooting it the first time, I applied the anti-seize as per instructions on the threaded portion thats screws into the tube itself. After shooting 300 or so rounds I could not get it apart when I got home. I went back out today and got the can hot again and tried taking it apart at the range, and of course I got nothing. So, is there something I can do to get it apart to clean or is cleaning that big of deal. No matter what it would be nice to be able to disassemble the thing. 2. I'm using a Walther P22 and was wondering if anyone has some suggestions as to Sub-Sonic ammo. I tried some CCI CB Long and they wouldn't cycle. They run in the 710 fps compared to the Federal bulk at 1280 fps and CCI Mini-Mag at 1235 fps. Also, are there aftermarket recoil springs that a guy can change to shoot sub-sonic ammo. 3. I'm also using a Sig Mosquito and it feeds both the Federal and the Mini-Mag well. I read another post that recommended Remington Green Box Sub-Sonic and was wondering if that works well. I did get the two springs with the Sig, but neither was painted so I am using what looks to me like the "lighter" spring. Thanks! __________________ I reject your reality and substitute my own.

August 27, 2009, 02:19 AM	#3
David Hineline Senior Member Join Date: December 23, 1999 Location: South Sioux City, Nebraska Posts: 704	None of that ammo you are shooting is going supersonic out of the short P22 barrel assuming you did not get the long model with the fake compensator. Remington subsonic is crap and some rounds will be quite noisy as a weak load will fail to seal the chamber when fired and more noise will come from the ejection port than does the muzzle. CCI minimags would work fine as do most of the bulk pack ammos in the P22 The Mosquito is going to be ammo picky, good luch finding something that works. Try some CCI Stingers or Velocitors and you will see what supersonic ammo sounds like from your silencer then you will appreciate what you have been shooting.

August 27, 2009, 10:38 PM	#6
Legion2600 Senior Member Join Date: June 11, 2005 Location: DFW Posts: 108	Yea, most stuff is gonna already be sub-sonic out of the P-22. If you can find some give the Eley and Lapua subs a spin. VERY quiet.

August 28, 2009, 06:33 AM	#7
Superhouse 15 Senior Member Join Date: September 13, 2007 Location: Sunny Florida Posts: 844	Be careful using SSS amo in your can. Might not stabilize and give you a baffle strike. Some manufacturers specifically say shooting it in their can will void your warranty.

August 28, 2009, 11:45 PM	#10
Legion2600 Senior Member Join Date: June 11, 2005 Location: DFW Posts: 108	The SSS is a 60 grain bullet and is prone to become unstable once leaving a standard twist barrel. Not really a problem when being used up and close without suppressor. Could lead to baffle strikes in a suppressor. This is why most use a 1:9 twist barrel when using this round. Tactical Innovations sells these barrels for the 10/22. Great round for varmints like rats & squirrels.

August 30, 2009, 09:13 PM	#12
hknut Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2005 Location: Olympia, Wa. Posts: 535	I have shot the SSS out of 2 different Bowers design cans without any problems. __________________ "Gun control is like trying to reduce Drunk Driving by making it tougher for sober people to own cars" Walk softly and carry a big SIG.

August 31, 2009, 09:47 PM	#13
Superhouse 15 Senior Member Join Date: September 13, 2007 Location: Sunny Florida Posts: 844	I shot the SSS in an integral 10/22 and it was fine. Tried it in a S&W 2213 and it keyholed. I can only imagine the damage it would do to the innards of a can on that gun. Not suppressor related, but SSS is one of the few loads that doesn't keyhole in my NAA mini revolver.

September 1, 2009, 09:33 AM	#14
Yellowfin Senior Member Join Date: January 7, 2007 Location: Lancaster Co, PA Posts: 2,311	I'm told brake cleaner is a very good way to clean your suppressor. __________________ Students for Concealed Carry on Campus http://www.concealedcampus.org "You can't stop insane people from doing insane things by passing insane laws--that's insane!" - Penn Jillette

September 8, 2009, 02:57 AM	#15
hknut Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2005 Location: Olympia, Wa. Posts: 535	A sealed can can be cleaned with a mixture of 50% ATF (auto trans fluid) and 50% mineral spirits. Seal the can in a tupperware container and shake. Then let drain and dry for a day. __________________ "Gun control is like trying to reduce Drunk Driving by making it tougher for sober people to own cars" Walk softly and carry a big SIG.

September 24, 2009, 08:19 PM	#16
Mike40-11 Senior Member Join Date: January 8, 2005 Location: Missouri Posts: 841	May be able to get it apart with heat. If and when you do, use a hi-temp copper flake anti-seize next time. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBIDO2 I use it on 500+ degree molding machine components.

September 24, 2009, 08:28 PM	#17
Lurch37 Senior Member Join Date: August 6, 2006 Location: Middle of Nebraska Posts: 941	I appreciate all the ideas and wanted to say thanks. I did eventually call YHM and was told to send it in. The guy was nice and all and told me it did need to be cleaned everytime. I told hiim I used the anti-seize that was shipped with the suppressor and I only hand tightened it so I was frustrated that it is now impossible for me to get it apart. I asked about using a strap wrench and was told to make sure not to get too carried away and dent the outside of the can. I did try with a lightweight strap wrench to no avail. The can is now soaking in a jar full of Kroil and I do see some flakes of junk it the bottom of the jar. I think I will do this after every shooting session until maybe like once a year or so I will send it in and have them clean it up. The guy said it would be a 2 week turn around. __________________ I reject your reality and substitute my own.

October 2, 2009, 08:09 PM	#18
MartinR Senior Member Join Date: March 31, 2005 Location: Winston-Salem, NC Posts: 134	I've also got a YHM Mite and like it, but it does seem to need to be cleaned after shooting much. Consider trying a heavier duty strap wrench. One method I have used on other tight threaded items is to put a piece of ice on the inner portion and apply heat to the outside tube (gentle use of propane torch, lighter, etc.). The idea is to allow the outer metal to expand and the inner metal to contract enough to make it easier to twist off. Good luck.

October 4, 2009, 11:29 AM	#19
gyvel Senior Member Join Date: August 30, 2009 Location: Northern AZ Posts: 7,172	You might want to try this as a penetrant: 100% PURE, NATURAL wintergreen oil, which you can get at any health food store (not "Walgreens"). This was revealed to me by an old time gunsmith that some of you older guys might recognize and has performed far better than any other penetrant I have ever used. For really stubborn applications, put a few drops to whatever is stuck, apply mild heat and watch the oil get sucked into the threads. Last edited by gyvel; October 6, 2009 at 04:48 AM.

October 5, 2009, 09:09 AM	#20
cougar gt-e Senior Member Join Date: July 25, 2009 Posts: 1,003	Kroil is one of the best penetrants money can buy. The only one better (IMHO) is the stuff GM sells (heat pipe lubricant and rust remover or some such name). It's in a blue can and sells for about 10 bucks for 12or 16oz. I'd also say to use the copper antiseeze, but the regular aluminum flake should have performed, unless you shot so much it got too hot to touch without getting a blister. Then again, I slather the stuff on. Did you use a bunch or just a dab?

October 11, 2009, 12:00 PM	#21
Lurch37 Senior Member Join Date: August 6, 2006 Location: Middle of Nebraska Posts: 941	Hello again, and thanks for all the input and ideas. I just wanted to let you guys know what I did to finally get my can apart in an effort to clean it up. Due to some Nosy Nellies, I was reluctant to take the can to work but I finally did, and during the lunch hour a trusted friend and I used a impact and allen socket to remove the stuck end from the can. After a few blips of the impact with the friend holding the can, the threads finally broke free and unthreaded, allowing me to clean the baffles and inside of the can. I must comment that it was a somewhat gooey mess inside, and I attribute that to the waxy .22 ammo and also possibly, the soaking of the entire can in the jar of Kroil. I found no evidence that any Kroil had seeped into the threads or disssolved any of the residue from inside the can or baffles. This is most certainly not a slam against Kroil as I use it almost daily to break free frozen nut/bolts, steam fittings, pipe joints, etc. I will use a different anti-seize next time and see if that improves my chances of disassembly without having to resort to power tools. Thanks! __________________ I reject your reality and substitute my own.