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January 13, 2021, 03:49 PM | #126 | |
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January 13, 2021, 04:20 PM | #127 |
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Ok here's what I get
Single pull of the final crimp bottoming out on the press . Interestingly I can push that point down with moderate force by hand . This one was 3 pulls of the final crimp lowering it more each time until bottoming out also turning the shell each pull . This looks to be as good as it gets with these components .
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January 13, 2021, 06:20 PM | #128 |
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What’s your choke? With mod or full I get a nice 6-8” pattern.
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January 13, 2021, 07:11 PM | #129 |
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Suggestion: Try Remington STS/Gun Club hulls with the same load. That's what I use and I get nice crimps using the CB1114-12 (WAA12F114) wad. The AAHS hulls have just a little less internal capacity and that accounts for your less than stellar crimps.
Don
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January 13, 2021, 08:44 PM | #130 | |
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Quote:
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If Jesus had a gun , he'd probably still be alive ! I almost always write my posts regardless of content in a jovial manor and intent . If that's not how you took it , please try again . |
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January 13, 2021, 09:02 PM | #131 |
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We used to call those riot guns and they were cylinder bore (no choke constriction). That photo does show something at the muzzle whete the barrel is larger. If you unload the gun and look into the muzzle, you may or may not see little notches at the end of the bore, there would be 4 equi-distant. Those are lugs for a choke wrench to unscrew. Most all waterfowl and sporting clays shotguns use choke tubes, and for steel shot you use one step less constriction than for lead.
If you dont see the 4 notches, you have cylinder bore only. Which is good for buckshot and slugs. Edit: twist adjustable chokes do exist, but are uncommon
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............ Last edited by Marco Califo; January 13, 2021 at 10:58 PM. Reason: Mention adjustable choke ends. |
January 13, 2021, 09:13 PM | #132 |
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January 13, 2021, 09:19 PM | #133 |
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Ideally you want the top of the shell's crimp to be slightly recessed (NOT concave)
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January 13, 2021, 10:50 PM | #134 |
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Yeah this is called a Breacher barrel designed to breach doors , no groves or anything inside unless the muzzle device is screwed into where the choke would go . I did not see a seem in the bore , although it looks like a separate device . The bore looks seamlessly smooth to the muzzle . I guess you're supposed to be able to pound the muzzle at the door knob or hinge areas of doors to weaken them . When I bought it the whole gun just looked cool to me , still does and it's a 500 so it's going to work . I have another 500 that's bare bones minimal with a 20" barrel . As stated before I'm not a shotgun guy but every red blooded American should have a couple regardless So you guys think those Remington hulls will allow the wad to sit a tad lower ? I found some instock (once fired) 1k for $36 . I'm ready to buy if that's really a good idea . I'll add the Hodgdon website suggest CCI 209M primers though . I might be able to find some locally but if not do I dare ask if the Win 209 primers I have will work ? I also noticed the Remington hulls data can take a full grain more of powder then the Win hulls .
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January 14, 2021, 04:14 PM | #135 |
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Yes, with the same amount of powder, the wad will sit slightly lower in the Rem hulls.
Don
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