Smith and Wesson serial number search

[Dave Anderson]

I cannot tell if the first letter of the serial number is R or K

If it is a model 17 then the prefix is definitely a K. The letter K was used as part of the s/n all postwar K-frame revolvers with the adjustable rear sight through 1982. After that S&W went to a three letter/four numeric numbering system.

The only handguns on which S&W used an R-prefix s/n were two stainless steel J-frames, the models 60 and 651.

Number after the letter is 703XXX.

With a K prefix this s/n dates to 1966.

[jgale]

Thanks Dave, very helpful. The letter is rather crucial as we are doing the paper work to get it registered to her. And thank you for the extra info of year of manufacture, greatly appreciated.

[kpratt]

I recently inherited an old S&W revolver. I've done a little research and I think it is from the late 1800's. Can someone tell me how old it is by the serial number ? Sorry for my lack of experience, my dad died and left this gun to me his only daughter. I was told it belonged to my grandma. Serial # 51419

[Dave Anderson]

I recently inherited an old S&W revolver. I've done a little research and I think it is from the late 1800's. Can someone tell me how old it is by the serial number? Sorry for my lack of experience, my dad died and left this gun to me his only daughter. I was told it belonged to my grandma. Serial # 51419

This information alone isn't enough, however the title of your post says "lemonsqueeze .32" which provides a useful hint.

It may be the .32 Safety Hammerless 1st Model. This was a top-break revolver with concealed hammer, five shot fluted cylinder, and a grip safety. The grip safety is a lever built into the backstrap (the back surface of the grip). When held in firing position this lever had to be depressed by a fairly strong hold on the gun, hence the term "lemon squeezer".

Incidentally the factory never used this term. In the factory it was called the Safety Hammerless. The labels on the cardboard shipping boxes called it the "New Departure" model, since it was a departure from the more common exposed-hammer revolvers.

The s/n range of the 1st Model was 1 - 91417, made from 1888 - 1902. Your revolver's s/n would suggest it was made around the mid to late 1890s. Grips were black checkered hard rubber, the metal finish generally nickel though a few had a blue finish.

Most had barrels of 3 or 3 1/2". A few were made with 2" barrels and were sometimes called "Bicycle Guns". A few were also made with 6" barrels. These unusual barrel lengths bring substantial premiums to collector value.

The Safety Hammerless in its various models was a popular model with production into the late 1930s, and the last ones leaving the factory around 1940.

[kpratt]

Thank you so much for the information. You completely described my gun. Black checkered grip with a 3" nickel plated barrel. It's a beautiful little gun that i will pass down when i have a child. Thanks again!
Kelly

[Bogman]

Hello. I just acquired a standard Model 36 with the serial no. BBT73XX. At your leisure, could someone look the year up? Much appreciated.

[Dave Anderson]

Model 36 with the serial no. BBT73XX.

It would have been made in late 1988, most likely around October-November.

[Bogman]

Thanks for the fast response!

[bobz1202]

I have a s&w 38 special ser # c h k 73xx . can someone tell me when this gun was manufactured....

[JenJoy217]

Hello! I am new to this forum, and have just acquired my first firearm. I wanted to find out about how old this is. I've done a little research and I'm thinking it's a 1905 4th change pre-war model, manufactured in @ the 30's?:

S&W .38 Special (stamped "38 S.&W. SPECIAL CTG" on the side of the barrel)
4" barrel
4 screws
square butt
serial #680xxx (no letters anywhere in the serial #)

It's also stamped inside when the cylinder is out with "16815"; not sure what that means?

I'm also curious about it's possible worth: it's nickel-plated, with mother-of-pearl grips which are NOT original (they were removed from another .38 Special). There is no visible damage anywhere on the nickel plating nor on the grips, other than small nicks at the end of the barrel. I know it's hard to guess at value without seeing it, but I just wanted a ballpark.

Thank you!

[rigrat]

My mother recently gave me her S&W m36, serial # j978xxx. Can someone give me the year of manufacture?

And is the little snub +P rated?

Thanks in advance.

[foxtail]

I'm new to the forum and just picked up a SW Model 10-5 with SN D652XXX, I was told it was a 1961. Can anyone verify that? The gun is 95% with grips that have the serial number stamped into them. 4" pinned pencil barrel, very faint turn line. Any guess on value? I purchased it from a friend who just wanted to get rid of an old gun from her father.

[laytonj1]

c h k 73xx

2004.

serial #680xxx

About mid 1930's.
Without seeing it, $300 to $500.

j978xxx

1982.
Not rated for +P but with it's all steel construction it will handle it fine.

SN D652XXX

SN's ran from D510001 in 1973 to D659901 in 1974.
About $350 range.

BTW, 1961 would have a "C" prefix.

Jim

[bobz1202]

thank you laytonj1 for the quick replay

[foxtail]

Thanks! I thought it looked too clean for a 1961.

[rigrat]

Thank you very much for the reply.

I have one more if you can help me with it.

S&W M60 ser# R801xx

And I believe it is not rated +p?

[laytonj1]

S&W M60 ser# R801xx

And I believe it is not rated +p?

Serial numbers ran from R30001 in 1970 to R99999 in 1973.

Correct, but like the 36 it's all steel and +P is okay.
That said, understand that they are not going to blow-up or anything with +P. Only that they can wear out faster from shooting allot of it.

Jim

[rigrat]

Jim,

Thanks allot I appreciate all the help. I am doing up a catalog of all my guns and was wanting some details on these 2 Smiths. One I traded a AK74 for it and the m36 was my moms.

I understand that they aren't going to blow up using +p , but knowing that they are both all steel revolvers. I try not to shoot +p but may start using it on a limited basis for carry. The snubs are fast becoming EDC guns.

[Danvee]

I'm itching to know date of mfg, not the value of this wheelgun and don't want to wait while I look for the Smith bible. Can you expert folks help a newcomer? Haven't seen a SN like this one. Stamped on frame grip butt 2D336xx. I understood the letter had to come first with six consecutive numbers. Not on this one. Oh, it's 4 inch tapered bbl, pinned, case hardened trigger, firing pin and locks up tight. My thanks, in advance.

[Dave Anderson]

Stamped on frame grip butt 2D336xx. I understood the letter had to come first with six consecutive numbers.

You are correct that S&W began the D-series sequence (in 1968 incidentally) with the letter followed by six digits. However when they reached s/n D999999 in late 1976/early 1977, rather than start a new letter series they just moved the D over one space and put a 2 in front.

Your revolver was made in 1977, when s/ns ran from 2D00001 to 2D80000.

S&W kept this system up until they got as high as 21D0883, at which time they changed to the three letter/four digit system they continue to use today.

[Danvee]

Thanks, Dave. Pleasure to meet somebody with accumulated worthwhile knowledge about something that fascinates me. I was curious about two deeply engraved symbols on the face of frame under grips, look almost like hieroglyphics. Did craftsmen put their own marks on their creations, or was it all mass produced, factory stuff by 1977? Not being pesky, I imagine you get plenty of questions being a 'professor' here.

[Dave Anderson]

I was curious about two deeply engraved symbols on the face of frame under grips, look almost like hieroglyphics. Did craftsmen put their own marks on their creations, or was it all mass produced, factory stuff by 1977?

The markings on the grip frame are used in the manufacturing process. One example is the assembly numbers. Some parts have to be hand-fitted. These are numbered so after being separated for polishing and blueing, the same parts can be reunited for final assembly and fitting.

Other markings are used to denote that a manufacturing step (heat treating, for example) has been completed. Also you are correct in saying that the workers who completed the final assembly, fitting, and tuning had their own mark, as did those who did the final inspection.

Incidentally S&W revolvers still are hand fitted and tuned by very skilled workers, or at least they still were when I visited the factory four or five years ago. It seems no matter how close the tolerances of the parts (and with CNC machinery these tolerances are very close) the revolvers still need hand fitting in order to function reliably.

I imagine you get plenty of questions being a 'professor' here

.

Jim Layton is the professor, I'm more of a guest lecturer who stops by once in a while as time permits. Currently I'm on the way to Las Vegas for the SHOT Show with some stops along the way to visit friends so I won't be around much for a while. I find this an interesting forum and find TFL one of the best web sites on the net.

[wrc21658]

I have a S&W 38 CTG I got it from my wifes grandfather about 10 years ago .dont know much about it ,we think he had it at least 50 years ser#5272 /with a larger # near it 3310 . any info would be appreciated

[Dave Anderson]

I have a S&W 38 CTG I got it from my wifes grandfather about 10 years ago .dont know much about it ,we think he had it at least 50 years ser#5272 /with a larger # near it 3310 . any info would be appreciated

No one is in a hurry to try and answer this question, the reason being there isn't enough information. It's a bit like asking, "I have a vehicle with two doors and four tires, marked Ford, what model is it, when was it made and what is it worth?"

For example is it .38 S&W or .38 Special, a top-break or hand ejector model, blue or nickel, exposed hammer or concealed hammer, what is barrel length, cylinder capacity, grip material.

Also unsure if the numbers provided include the s/n or if they are assembly numbers. The s/n should be on the bottom of the grip frame.

Sharp pictures of GBS (gun both sides) are always helpful.

Would really like to help out but cannot do so without more information.

[wrc21658]

thanks for the time here are some pics