|
Forum Rules | Firearms Safety | Firearms Photos | Links | Library | Lost Password | Email Changes |
Register | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
July 3, 2018, 06:56 PM | #26 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 16, 2006
Location: IOWA
Posts: 8,783
|
YES; Good question and process is current
Quote:
Be Safe !!!
__________________
'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing. |
|
July 3, 2018, 10:41 PM | #27 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 12, 2015
Location: Issaquah WA. Its a dry rain.
Posts: 1,774
|
Linseed oil will dry quicker and take fewer coats, but it will yellow with time. I prefer tung oil if Im doing something nice. It cures slower and takes more coats but I find it more pleasing to the eye and hand. Which ever you go with, apply THIN coats and rub rub rub.
__________________
Just shoot the damn thing. |
July 6, 2018, 05:45 AM | #28 |
Senior Member
Join Date: July 18, 2010
Location: Independence Missouri
Posts: 4,582
|
I'm currently working on a English Walnut stock I had inletted by Ben Piper at Soroka Rifles USA, and he fixed me up with a recipe that works great for me.
It's a mix of Turpentine, Wipe On Poly, and Teak oil, sorry I can't give you any mixing info because he asked me not to. But this is working wonders for me...
__________________
Keep your Axe sharp and your powder dry. |
July 6, 2018, 08:12 AM | #29 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 20, 2007
Location: Rainbow City, Alabama
Posts: 7,167
|
Hooligan, what you are describing is what woodworkers call a "witches brew". Each woodworker kind of comes up with his own mixture that he likes to work with.
|
July 6, 2018, 09:22 PM | #30 |
Staff
Join Date: March 4, 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 21,017
|
Doyle,
Bob Flexner explained the term "tung oil finish" in the industry just means the finish the product produces resembles an actual tung oil finish in appearance, but doesn't mean there is any actual tung oil in it. It's not driers so much as the heat polymerizing that make Tru-Oil effective where BLO is not. Same with that whole class of finishes. I don't know much about the wiping oils other than that Flexner rated them at the top of the protection level for oil finishes. A friend of mine who is a cabinet maker put me on to the Danish oils. He said he liked the combination of hardness and appearance. They don't have UV blockers, but he said the blockers compromise hardness to a degree, so he didn't like them for tables. Besides, people don't leave their dining tables outdoors. We don't keep our rifles outside for extended periods, either, so it's hard to accumulate a lot of UV yellowing and embrittling. My friend, applies Danish oil finishes by rubbing them in with progressively finer wet/dry sandpaper, going from 320 to 400 to 600 grit. It seems to fill in the grains well. It does have to be wiped
__________________
Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle |
July 7, 2018, 01:25 AM | #31 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 13, 2006
Location: Washington state
Posts: 15,248
|
Quote:
__________________
Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services |
|
July 9, 2018, 10:39 AM | #32 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 1, 2000
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 8,511
|
Quote:
It was easy to apply, there's no arcane timing or technique involved, and it looks very nice. Wiping it down with 0000 steel wool cuts the shine, if you want a satin appearance. I got a dent in the stock after finishing, used the wet cloth and iron technique to raise it, then just lightly sanded and applied another coat of finish over it, and it looks like new.
__________________
Runs off at the mouth about anything 1911 related on this site and half the time is flat out wrong. |
|
July 9, 2018, 11:25 AM | #33 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 2, 2017
Posts: 1,868
|
Quote:
Probably should say that using the fine wet/dry paper's you put it on rubbing in circles. What happens is the sanding dust is mixed in with the oil and going in circles forces the wet dust into pores. Apply till pores are filled! |
|
July 9, 2018, 01:41 PM | #34 |
Staff
Join Date: March 4, 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 21,017
|
RickB,
Pure tung oil works, but it seems to be slow to polymerize. For best results, if they don't have you add a drier, they recommend letting each coat dry several days, and then you need to sand it before the next coat. Just more work than the modern stuff. But it dios penetrate deeper.
__________________
Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle |
July 9, 2018, 03:47 PM | #35 |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 1, 2000
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 8,511
|
Yeah, and that's why I used the "wiping varnish" tung oil finish, rather than pure tung oil.
I think I applied one coat per day for four or five days, then rubbed it down with 0000. Pure tung oil apparently penetrates deeper, and some advocate thinning the "tung oil finish" for the first coat, so it penetrates more deeply. Nobody knows wood as good as Homer Formby, says the can.
__________________
Runs off at the mouth about anything 1911 related on this site and half the time is flat out wrong. |
July 9, 2018, 05:48 PM | #36 |
Senior Member
Join Date: July 18, 2010
Location: Independence Missouri
Posts: 4,582
|
This concoction has been steller so far, my grain pores were filled faster, and the hand rubbing is very nice and it dries fairly quick, I've leave it for a few days and come back to it.
__________________
Keep your Axe sharp and your powder dry. |
July 16, 2018, 01:03 PM | #37 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 7, 2008
Posts: 3,224
|
I had really good results with pure Teak wood oil on an old Winchester stock. I chose it because I read that it has good UV resistance. Happy so far.
|
July 17, 2018, 10:13 PM | #38 |
Senior Member
Join Date: July 30, 2014
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 244
|
I'd do a coat of LinSpeed or TruOil followed by a good dress down with steel wool. Then I'd do many additional layers. Yeah I'm ole school.
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|