March 15, 2010, 07:28 AM | #1 |
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pressure signs
i've read the lee manual a couple times and been reading on here for about 6 months. so i kind of have an idea about what to look for, but would like some more insight on what to look for, maybe pics on getting close to max pressure. shooting bolt action and semi auto 30.06 and .308. thanks
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March 15, 2010, 07:35 AM | #2 |
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I don't have pictures for you, but one of the best indicators is a difficult to lift bolt on your bolt action. I'd also look for a bright ring near the case head of your rifle brass which indicates a possible upcoming head separation. When you see this ring, take a paper clip and make a small hook on it to insert in the mouth and try to "feel" the inside of this case where the ring appears. You should be able to tell if the brass is thin in that area.
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March 15, 2010, 07:55 AM | #3 |
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The best accuracy for both is about 80-85% case full with medium powders. You'll never get max loads to extact from autos, either.
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March 15, 2010, 04:28 PM | #4 |
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ok thanks, i have been developing some loads for the 30.06 and .308 and have stayed a couple tenths under max. not that i want to stay that high but just looking for the best load. havent found it yet.
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March 16, 2010, 02:31 PM | #5 |
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Gas guns, especially the Garand, are sensitive to gas port pressure. You don't want to use anything slower burning than the Varget/IMR4895 burning rate range in them. For gas guns I've found IMR 4064 to be about as good as it gets in both those chamberings for all bullet weights, though it's a little long for the most consistent metering from most measures. The Lee Perfect measure usually meters it above the average measure. For any stick powder, though, the JDS Quick Measure is the most consistent I've found without going to electronic weighing dispensers.
The .30-06 bolt gun may like IMR4350 or H4350 for bullets about 165 grains and higher, but it is too slow for the gas guns. For pressure signs, generally, I have a list, here.
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March 16, 2010, 11:49 PM | #6 |
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thanks unclenick! thats what i was looking for!
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March 17, 2010, 04:18 AM | #7 |
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What Nick said. Those autos will be slammin the action with the slower powders which will eventually result in damage to the rails and such. Don't worry about a max load with them simply work towards accuracy.
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March 21, 2010, 02:54 PM | #8 |
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If your brass looks like this....
...the load is too hot. (OK, I realize it wasn't particularly helpful to the OP. I just couldn't help myself!) |
March 21, 2010, 03:01 PM | #9 |
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Wow, IM! Impressive brass flow. Somebody tried this load twice? Don't post the recipe, it'll annoy the mods.
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March 21, 2010, 03:28 PM | #10 |
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No worries, TX, there's already been a thread devoted to that pic. I just read the OP in this thread and smiled....
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March 22, 2010, 09:21 AM | #11 |
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The first sign
The fiirst sign of excessive pressure is when your load nears the maximum of any published data.......ay?
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March 22, 2010, 11:05 AM | #12 |
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the reason im asking, is i'm working up a .308win. this batch i'm using 168gr ballistic silvertips, with H4895. i started at 41gr. and my max is 43.3gr.. max listed in two diff. manuals is 43.5gr. . so my max loads are pretty close to there max but just under. they list a min length of 2.800. 2.800 will not fit real good in my rifle.(wont eject a unfired round) so i made them 2.785. is that small amount of length going to increase the pressure alot? thanks in advance.
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