Lubricants

[Scoits]

Best lube for full length resizing large bottle neck cases

[Sure Shot Mc Gee]

Easiest to use. RCBS Case Lube 2 and pad.

[F. Guffey]

For the toughest of cases I use a no-name lube, for the rest of the cases I use anything. I make shop calls to help builders of wildcat rifles form cases. One of them is so opinionated he instructs me not to bring my no-name stuff; he tells me we are going to use Imperial, to be honest I have a lot of trouble making that stuff look good and then there is worst, that would be the Dillon in the bottle and or can. Believe it or not? He has both.

Occasionally when using the no-name lube I think of Jerry Clower of Yazoo, one day Jerry made the mistake of feeding his tree hounds okra, his point? Eating okra in public can be embarrassing.

F. Guffey

[mikld]

Mink Oil Boot Dressing Cream. Available in the shoe polish section or in the sporting goods section with boots. Discovered it 25+ years ago and have used it since, with no stuck cases and no "lube dents". Contains lanolin and is easy on the hands and comes off the brass easily...

No lube dents because so little is needed to lube a case for sizing...

[F. Guffey]

Neatsfoot oil

Before you discovered it we called it Neatsfoot oil.

F. Guffey

[condor bravo]

For heavy duty lubing, use RCBS case lube 2 and a pad for applying.

[T. O'Heir]

There is no 'best' anything. There is easiest to use though. And like Sure Shot says, that's a pad. What you put on it really makes no difference.
"...no "lube dents"..." Are about were the lube is on the case. Not the lube itself.

[Doyle]

Home made - Isopropyl alcohol and liquid lanolin.

[ed308]

I like Dillon's spray lube or s alcohol and lanolin mix.

[hdwhit]

Scoits wrote:
Best lube for full length resizing large bottle neck cases

Well, since you asked for the "best" instead of what is most suitable for a particular set of requirements and why, I guess we're spending your money. In that case the "best" is:

Imperial Sizing Wax.

On the other hand, if I'm spending my money, I buy Hornady Unique.

• It is inexpensive.
• It doesn't require a pad or a bag.
• It lasts virtually forever.
• You use so little that you hardly know you've used any at all.
• It makes your hands smell good.
• It will handle even the stresses of case forming.
• It tumbles off cleanly with corn cob or walnut media (but is easily removed with a rag if you only have a few cases to do)
• In an emergency you can fry potatoes in it and they'll taste like the McDonald's fries you remember from your youth. ;-)

[Kevin Rohrer]

Another question that has been asked 100s of times.

The answer is always the same: Imperial Sizing Wax and their Dry Neck Lube.

[KenT7021]

I use STP engine oil additive.It appears to be the same as RCBS and Lyman case lube.

[Damon555]

Unique case lube.....there's simply no reason to use anything other than wax when working with precision reloads.

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[cw308]

I use the RCBS lube , tried the imperial wax but went to RCBS. Also tried the dry neck lube with the beads for smooth seating but was concerned about different barrel fouling & stopped using it.

[RC20]

I use a combo of the Hornady spray on and Lyman spray on.

Lyman needs to be diluted or done lightly.

Hornady requires re applying.

All of it is better than the old roll pads.

[Dufus]

I have been using the "old roll pads" since 1965. I have never had a stuck case.

[dahermit]

I have been using the "old roll pads" since 1965. I have never had a stuck case.

It depends on which of the RCBS "old roll pads" that are used. The original roll pad from RCBS was a cloth-surface pad. Their cheaper replacement was a foam pad that deteriorated after some time and had to be replaced. But you have to be pretty old to remember the cloth pads.

[The Old Salt]

Red Wing Mink oil with lanolin. Best I ever tried. Dab ur finger into the tin and rub a very light coating onto the case. Even cases run through a small base die run very smoothly. One tin will last for thousands of rds. After sizing rub case w paper towel.

[F. Guffey]

But you have to be pretty old to remember the cloth pads.

I have two of the old pads, one is red, it looks like an ink stamp pad.

And then? There is always a 'and then' moment; but before the ink pad there was Jack O'Conner. Jack was before the Internet, in one of his books printed in 1954 he said his hands hurt all the time. He went on to say he got relief with lanolin, and then he said when sizing cases he used extra lanolin on his hands. He said without lanolin the skin on his hands split and cracked.

So before someone claims they invented lanolin I will give Jack honorable mention. And I will add it was a big mistake to leave lanolin on the case meaning it was not wise to forget about how tuff it was to remove from a case after it dried.

F. Guffey

[ShootistPRS]

I use a pad made from a scrap of 3/4 inch plywood, a folded shop towel and a shop towel over that stapled to the wood. The lube is 5 parts ATF, 5 parts mineral spirits paint thinner, and 4 parts Hilton's HyperLube (like STP oil treatment). The 50/50 ATF and paint thinner is my gun oil. I use the same lube on the sliding parts as I use on the lube pad. Two products that are inexpensive and really good at so many jobs.

[dahermit]

I have two of the old pads, one is red, it looks like an ink stamp pad.

The original pad I was referring to was natural muslin White.

[Don Fischer]

Originally Posted by KenT7021

I use STP engine oil additive.It appears to be the same as RCBS and Lyman case lube.

I used STP back in the 70"s. What can ya saw, the stuff worked! I've got a bottle of that Dillon spray and no use at all for it. Have that Hornady stuff like Imperial and only use it inside neck's to trim case's. No idea how you can tell if a case is lubed using that stuff, blind faith I guess. I've used the RCBS many years ago then switched to STP, STP must have been cheaper. Last 20+ yers I've used Hornady one shot. I doubt I'll ever change again, the stuff is wonderful. I don't doubt that the other thing's won't lube just as well but One Shot works and I'm gonna use it till it doesn work anymore!

[F. Guffey]

The original pad I was referring to was natural muslin White.

The Lyman has a red case and the pad is muslin white. It has never been used and I have ink and I have ink pads with stamps. I do not use them but I have them just in case. And again, I have a no-name lube, I use it for the tuff to size stuff.. Anything works on all the other stuff and then; back to STP, I have two of the pull off lids, both are from Studebaker. Problem: The cans have collapsed slightly because of atmospheric pressure and heat.

F. Guffey

[mikld]

Originally Posted by Kevin Rohrer

Another question that has been asked 100s of times.

The answer is always the same: Imperial Sizing Wax and their Dry Neck Lube.

Sorry, wrong. The best is my lube; Mink Oil Boot Dressing Cream. 100% reliable and no reports of any failures (but mebbe because not too many use this, but it's still 100% ).

Just like almost everything used in reloading, personal opinion/choice is more influential than how well something works...

[Stats Shooter]

I use K-Y jelly...the warming stuff. Makes sizing more exciting.