October 27, 2015, 10:28 AM | #101 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 16, 2006
Location: IOWA
Posts: 8,783
|
Load from a calibrated measure.
Quote:
Be Safe !!!
__________________
'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing. |
|
October 27, 2015, 01:21 PM | #102 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2012
Posts: 3,881
|
I bought this flask off ebay. In the ad is staes CVA and country of origin United States and shows the CVA logo on the picture of the flask. Upon looking closer there is no CVA emblem on the flask and is is stamped Taiwan on the bottom. I am thinking this is a Taiwan knock off and not a genuine CVA flask. It a shame people selling on ebay have to resort to this type of trickery to sell junk.
|
October 27, 2015, 02:05 PM | #103 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 16,188
|
Mine is 35+ years old and has a CVA logo on it but doesn't say where it was made. CVA doesn't make anything. They are importers so it wouldn't surprise me for them to be made in Tiawan.
|
October 27, 2015, 03:46 PM | #104 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 16, 2006
Location: IOWA
Posts: 8,783
|
Is it really a problem ???
Quote:
I have a number of these flasks and some are fairly old. Most are stamped Taiwan, two indicate Italy and one not stamped. I also have some Traditions flasks and they are not stamped at all. I do think yours was not represented properly. All the CVA's that I have are swing-gate type, including the small field flasks. .... The ones you don't see much of, are the Thompsons. ..... Be Safe !!!
__________________
'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing. |
|
October 27, 2015, 04:10 PM | #105 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2012
Posts: 3,881
|
No Idon't load directly into the barrel, I add the powder into a powder measure. I was under the impression that this flask was going to dump 30 gr so two dumps into the measure would be just right. Not the case. But it still works for me dumping into the measure. I checked with CVA and they no longer make the flask but import it from either Taiwan or India. So much for made in the USA.
I shot today and picked up the patches, the .015 were perfect, a little rough around the edge but no holes or burn marks, the .010 were blown apart with a hole right in the middle. Also groups were tighter with the .015 patches. |
October 27, 2015, 04:43 PM | #106 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2012
Posts: 3,881
|
Quote:
|
|
October 27, 2015, 05:34 PM | #107 |
Senior Member
Join Date: December 19, 2012
Location: Treasure Coast, Florida
Posts: 335
|
The reason for the spout coming up short may be because of your finger displacing those extra grains.
Having said that, I have a number of 24 grain spouts and by weight, none of them dispensed the same amount of powder from the same flask, they were all different! Out came the scribe to mark them, problem solved. Ain't never heard of a Taiwanese flask before, all mine are American, Spanish or Italian.
__________________
“Gird up now thy loins like a man; for I will demand of thee, and answer thou me.” - Job 38:3
|
October 27, 2015, 07:03 PM | #108 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 16,188
|
I don't have a pic of mine but it looks exactly like this one except a lot shinier As I said before CVA didn't make them. CVA was/is an importer not a manufacturer. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/711...ck-to-top-link
|
October 27, 2015, 07:57 PM | #109 |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 24, 2013
Posts: 584
|
I have 2 old Colt style, one is a Dixon, and a couple of adjustable measures, I would be glad if they threw within 2 grains of the marking.
I soldered a small extension of brass tube on one spout to get the charge I wanted for my .36 Navies. |
October 28, 2015, 01:11 PM | #110 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2012
Posts: 3,881
|
bullet seater
The bullet seater end on my ramrod marks and deforms the lead ball, is there any place to get an end that will seat the ball without deforming it ?
|
October 28, 2015, 06:10 PM | #111 |
Staff
Join Date: November 2, 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 21,829
|
Rebs - not that I'm aware of. You can have one made or use a cylinder loader. However, that ram on the cylinder loader must conform with the shape of your projectile lest it becomes deformed during the loading process.
__________________
Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. Molon Labe! |
October 28, 2015, 09:02 PM | #112 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 17, 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 6,882
|
There's no reason this 54cal jag design wouldn't reasonably provide a non-marring surface for seating of a 58 ball.
http://www.amazon.com/Traditions-Per.../dp/B000N8JV04 |
October 28, 2015, 10:54 PM | #113 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 16,188
|
A patched ball shouldn't require enough force to load that it deforms the ball. It really doesn't matter if it's deformed on the front. As long as the rear isn't deformed it wont affect accuracy
|
October 29, 2015, 06:07 AM | #114 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2012
Posts: 3,881
|
The rod I have leaves a round indentation in the ball caused the edge of the seater. Its like the concave is too deep and only the edge hits the ball.
I tried a .010 patch and the ball seated easily but the entire center of the patch was gone leaving only the outer edge after I fired it and picked up the patch. I shot with a .015 patch and it stayed intact with no hole or burning. But the ball seats quite hard with the thicker patch and that is when the seater marks up the ball. Which patch would you use ? |
October 29, 2015, 08:39 AM | #115 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 16,188
|
What are you making patches out of and what are you lubing them with?
|
October 29, 2015, 08:52 AM | #116 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 17, 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 6,882
|
Use the patch/ball combo that:
(A) Loads "smoothly" stiff in a lightly (1X) swabbed barrel (B) Doesn't burn [or cut] through Spit is more than good enough lube. Nothing more exotic needed. (7:1 water/NAPA cutting oil [or Ballistol] blotted/dried if you must) In other words, you are there. As to seating jag, use the one already mentioned above: http://www.amazon.com/Traditions-Per.../dp/B000N8JV04 |
October 30, 2015, 08:30 AM | #117 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2012
Posts: 3,881
|
I am using pre lubed patches from Cabelas. The round balls are Hornady .570 at 278 gr. Why did the .010 patches only have the outer ring and the middle was completely gone after shooting ? They didn't look burned. The .015 are harder to seat but they are still whole after shooting.
|
October 30, 2015, 09:04 AM | #118 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 17, 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 6,882
|
I have a Pedersoli 45 Missouri Rvr Hawken that loves 0.010" muslin patches -- but it has shallow grooves.
Deep grooves (which are the norm in everything else I shoot) will cut those thin patches under firing pressure/acceleration, and once breached -- burn at the circumferential cut areas to leave a hole. Last edited by mehavey; October 30, 2015 at 02:20 PM. |
November 1, 2015, 08:46 PM | #119 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 17, 2015
Posts: 355
|
muzzle loader
I had a Buffalo Hunter, in .58 caliber. It was really nice walnut and checkered wrist, until someone stole it in July 76.
I have never seen another one. Barrel was about 28 inches I think. Had a real nice crown so loading balls would have been real easy. It was intended for minnies though. I liked it a lot. I shot a couple deer with it. back then I used Crisco on the bullet groves and a bit in the hollow rear of bullet. I was told this made the fouling softer and easier to reload. I don't know about .58 muzzle loaders in general but that gun was accurate. I practiced by shooting walnuts off a tree in back yard. No houses behind us, then for miles. I think it is a great round. Everyone tried to tell me I needed a .50. I wondered if it wasn't because of recoil. The barrel on my gun was round and good steel and not as heavy as an octagon nor as thick as I've seen some. It was blued and polished and finely finished wood. |
November 7, 2015, 05:33 AM | #120 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2012
Posts: 3,881
|
I got the clean out screw out. After cleaning the barrel with soap and water I took the boiling water from the tea kettle and poured it through the barrel. The barrel was so hot I had to use a pot holder to handle it. I tried removing the small screw and it came right out. I cleaned in there with a pipe cleaner greased the threads and put the screw back in.
|
November 7, 2015, 08:53 AM | #121 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 17, 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 6,882
|
Cool...
(and now it will come out w/ relative ease each cleaning session) hint: keep a little box (cap box lid) on your table and put the screw in it when cleaning (so it doesn't "disappear") |
November 7, 2015, 09:37 AM | #122 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2012
Posts: 3,881
|
I would like to find a hex head screw that will fit in the hole. That screw sure is small
|
November 7, 2015, 01:16 PM | #123 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 17, 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 6,882
|
Take it to any [good] hardware store and they
will match the thread (most likely metric) |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|