June 16, 2018, 09:53 PM | #1 |
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Raw Aluminum AR15
Anyone here have knowledge about ARs made with raw aluminum parts? I love
Chandlerhardwoods.com for parts, but are there any other recommendations?
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June 16, 2018, 10:33 PM | #2 |
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Please define 'raw ' Aluminum
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June 16, 2018, 11:03 PM | #3 |
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You see them all the time at gunshows: lowers that are the product right off CNC machining mill.
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June 17, 2018, 12:07 AM | #4 |
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Other than coloring and providing a hard "skin," anodizing does nothing.
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June 17, 2018, 05:28 AM | #5 |
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"Other than coloring and providing a hard "skin," anodizing does nothing."
That's exactly what anodizing is supposed to do. |
June 17, 2018, 07:47 AM | #6 |
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I believe the term "Raw" in metal working means pre machining, as in raw cast (as cast) parts. Maybe the OP means un-finished? Or would that be non-finished?
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June 17, 2018, 07:54 PM | #7 |
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Which parts? Do you mean upper and lower receiver? I'm plannng on doing one with a polished aluminum upper and lower. You can buy them unfinished from several sources.
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June 17, 2018, 08:41 PM | #8 |
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Just a question.Do you clearcoat them.How do keep your hands from getting black.
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June 17, 2018, 09:19 PM | #9 |
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Wouldn't recommend going non-anodized. Aluminum oxidizes very quickly upon contact with ambient air, but it's not nearly as strong or as clean a layer of protection as anodizing. That's why there is anodizing. Even cerakoted lowers/uppers are anodized first prior to coating.
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June 17, 2018, 10:24 PM | #10 |
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No real good reason. You can get 80 lowers that are already coated. As stated above aluminum will corrode, sooo, whats the point.
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June 18, 2018, 12:50 AM | #11 |
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Unless it is a pure "show" gun that will stay dry its whole life there isn't a great reason to do a raw lower. Most of the time the anodized 80 percent lowers are the same price as the raw ones.
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June 18, 2018, 01:49 AM | #12 |
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The best anodize is the Military spec , black, the hardest anodize .
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June 18, 2018, 06:08 AM | #13 |
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Apparently, very few actually know what corroding aluminum looks like
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June 19, 2018, 07:15 AM | #14 |
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June 19, 2018, 03:27 PM | #15 |
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You can do a clear anodize, too.
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June 20, 2018, 10:20 AM | #16 |
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Mete, there are actually 3 types of Mil-Spec hardcoat anodizing and each have their different purposes. The color does not matter, as destructor6 stated, you can even get a clear coat anodize that meets the mil-spec. The anodize that is used on AR parts is a type-III which is the thickest, and it is very hard. When I mean thickest, we're not talking like a chocolate bar though, it's still thin, however in respect to the other mil-spec-types of anodizing, it is the thickest.
Chainsaw, I'm not sure what you are saying. Anodized aluminum will not corrode, that's the point of the anodizing. |
June 20, 2018, 10:26 AM | #17 | |
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Quote:
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June 20, 2018, 10:29 AM | #18 |
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The majority of the manufacturers are not hard coat anodizing. A lot of them are using a paint that is comparable to ceramic exhaust header paint that you can buy at NAPA auto parts. Cerakote is another option and you can do that yourself if you want. I just use the Napa Auto Parts Ceramic paint and then bake them at 450 degrees for 15 minutes. They don't chip or scratch easily and touch up is a breeze. Not Milspec and not the best but I've done it to several and they still look new.
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June 20, 2018, 02:35 PM | #19 |
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I ment that you can get 80% lower that already coated in more traditional AR coatings, which, while I dont have experience with anodizing on AR parts, I would guess would be "better" on an AR. Strictly speculative given my experience with anodizing on other things.
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June 20, 2018, 03:51 PM | #20 | |
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Quote:
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June 20, 2018, 05:25 PM | #21 |
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I think you are asking about the 80% lower in the raw they call it.
Like these unfinished lowers. After finishing you can paint with a good curable paint that is heat & solvent proof like VHT engine enamel. http://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-engine-enamel Because you don't want to get your gun finished only to have the paint melt off the first time you take it out shooting or have it wash off when you try to clean it. VHT engine enamel is a special paint that after letting it dry overnight needs to be cured by heating it to 200° for 20 to 30 minutes. Or you could use Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black to coat your lower. https://www.walmart.com/ip/BW-Casey-...-3-oz/23237703 It is easy to use. The way I use it is to clean the lower with alcohol then put it in boiling water to heat it up. When it is hot to the touch (it doesn't take long) put it in a one Gal. ziplock freezer bag & pour the Aluminum Black over the lower zip the bag closed then shake to coat. Repete heating & shaking until the get the color you want then wash off excess in cold water. To keep the coating on you need another clean Gal. ziplock bag to put the lower into then coat with a good quality gun oil & keep it warm for a day or so. Then wipe it off with dry rags. Good luck with your build. |
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