I want to reload, where to start?

[chimo]

Any issues with the auto indexing (I have had none) are easily remedied. Lee isn't the only turret press out there either...you could always spend more to get a Redding T-7, Dillon 550 or Lyman TMag, but I would recommend starting with the more inexpensive Lee until you get some experience and decide for yourself if you want to get a better turret or go to a full progressive...or like me you may decide the Lee suits your purposes.

What I like about mine is that I can reload using my own process which is part batch, part progressive. I use the press to deprime and resize if required, then after cleaning the brass again and cleaning out the primer pockets I prime using a hand primer...then I go back to the press to drop the powder charge, seat the bullet and crimp if necessary. I could use the auto-prime to prime on the press...but my wife is happier when I spend some time with her pretending to watch some sappy movie while I set my primers.

[alexcue]

I've reloaded a few thousand pistol rounds on the Lee Classic Turret. I am a pretty experienced reloader, and own a Dillon XL650 also. But, after staying away from reloading for a bit, came back and bought a Lee Classic Turret. The "fix" for the indexing was just that, adjust the timing the first time out. After that, no issues. You do have to know the right place to remove the turret heads with your dies, if you pull them out at the wrong time you can screw up the timing. Just watch Lee's videos on their website and it will make sense.

Anyway, they haven't needed fixing once since then. The little Classic Turret is getting more work right now than the Dillon, and I'm enjoying getting back into it.

[jimbob86]

I keep waffling between a single stage and the turret press.......

You can't feed your gun collection with those waffles.

Get one or the other..... the important thing is to get started.

Handloading is a substantial initial investment. You looking at a minimum of $700 by the time you get a kit and buy all the necessary components.

Horsefeathers. I believe you have a misunderstanding of the word "minimum".

Going for "minimum" expense, one could begin handloading a single caliber for less than $100, including components.

I doubt I have spent 700 dollars on my reloading equipment, ..... though I've burned through many times that in components......

[cw308]

Everyone gave you good advise. 4runnerman's post l got a kick out of. I've been reloading for 25+ years & like 4 runnerman said, after 25+ years just changed the way I clean my brass . went from dry tumbling to wet with stainless steel pins, brass comes out like new. After shooting your rounds that's the first thing your going to do in reloading. Preping your brass is in my opinion one of the most important steps. Read up on all the equipment, buy the best you can afford. Welcome to the club.

[Mauser69]

It is very interesting to find a very old thread come back to life and still have relevance to the OP! I commend you for taking your time to think about it before jumping. I am only adding my thoughts here in response to your specific posts today...

First, I have done both metallic and shot shell reloading for 40 years - I got into shot shell loading because as a competitive skeet shooter, I was burning through 400 to 1000 rounds EVERY WEEKEND. I could not afford to shoot without reloading.

If you like reloading once you get started, you will probably begin loading all types, but I advise you to only focus on ONE thing to begin with - do not buy stuff for more than one. If you chose metallic cartridges first, start with only ONE caliber, and load only that until you are almost bored with loading and testing different recipes and desperate to have more ammo for another gun.

I am assuming the proper advice about learning first was given way back a year ago (I haven't bothered to read it all), but please let me re-emphasize that you REALLY need to fully read every word in either the Lee or Lyman manuals BEFORE you try to load ANYTHING! If you haven't already done that in the last year, do it NOW, BEFORE you waste any money on a guess about what you should start with.

Finally, you specifically state you still cannot decide if you should start with a turret or single stage press, so I will share my specific thoughts there:

I generally feel that a beginning loader should ONLY start with a quality single stage press like the RCBS Rockchucker or equivalent (Lyman is often the best deal). I think this is important for two main reasons - primarily, it will require you to start slow and THINK about developing good safe processes that will serve you well forever. Secondly, you will ALWAYS have a need for a good single stage, no matter what else you eventually add to your bench, so might as well start that way.

The Lee Classic Turret press is an excellent purchase, and yes, it can be used exactly like a single stage with the trivial act of simply pulling out the indexing rod. BUT . . ., I tend to think that if you start with that press, you will be too tempted to enjoy all the benefits of the auto-indexing turret press and never really develop the procedures, habits, and total understanding that you really need.

Take those thoughts for whatever you think they are worth, but you will never know if this is a hobby you enjoy until you try it. Good luck.

[Mauser69]

Oh, one more thing - do buy Lee dies, no matter what brand of press you decide to start with. They are top notch quality, have several features you do not get with others, and about half the price of any other brand. If you are using them in a single stage press, you will probably want to add a set of Lyman or Hornady locking rings to make it easier to spin them in and out (buy whichever is cheapest), but even with those you will still be way cheaper than another brand of dies.

Start with the Lee dies for your first caliber - you can always switch brands for the next purchase if you think there is a good reason to spend more, but I bet you don't! If you are loading for a revolver, do not spend the extra bucks on a four die set, just get the standard carbide three die set. IMO there is no point in ever having the FCD for revolver loads.

[jimbob86]

IMO there is no point in ever having the FCD for revolver loads.

It's simpler for a beginner to seat and crimp in separate operations.

[SARuger]

Still nothing purchased yet.......

I am going with a single stage though. My mind is made up there. Just looking at all the other stuff I need like case prep etc.

[jimbob86]

Still nothing purchased yet.......

I am going with a single stage though. My mind is made up there. Just looking at all the other stuff I need like case prep etc.

I think you should get a single stage kit and dies for a single caliber, probably .38/.357 ..... just the minimum to start.

...but do get started: The longest journey begins with but a single step, unless you set on the threshold endlessly debating which brand of sneakers would be the best for the trip ...or maybe boots ..... and what about laces? Maybe not: velcro is faster.......

See my point?

If you have questions, we have answers...... feel free to ask.

[cw308]

Case prep. Tumbler to clean brass, uniformer, chamfer tool inside & out, RCBS precision mic, flash hole deburrer, case trimmer, dies , case lube & single stage press. Primers, powder, bullets & your ready to go.

[jimbob86]

Case prep. Tumbler to clean brass, uniformer, chamfer tool inside & out, RCBS precision mic, flash hole deburrer, case trimmer

While nice to have, none of the above are necessary to reload .38special/.357Mag., or any straightwalled pistol case, particularly if you don't load hot.

[Road_Clam]

Originally Posted by SAruger

Still nothing purchased yet.......

I am going with a single stage though. My mind is made up there. Just looking at all the other stuff I need like case prep etc.

I think your making an excellent decision. I was loosing sleep many years ago when attempting to define what would be the best 1st press purchase. Seems as though you get every possible answer from "buy a cheap single stage" to "spend $1K on a Dillon 650". My 1st press was the Rock Chucker master kit. Got it off Ebay for $300 shipped, and there was a $50 RCBS rebate , so my net cost was $250 , this is a NO BRAINER for the first time reloader. I made SO many rookie mistakes my first few years of handloading, and if I had purchased a complex turret or progressive as my first setup, I would have ended up in the nut house from frustration. Buy a single stage kit, learn and master the basic process, then buy an additional turret or progressive setup. I recently added the LEE Classic Turret and it's an awesome value and speeds up the process of loading smaller 1-200 count lots of bulk ammo. Good luck, keep us posted as to what kit you buy.

[Mauser69]

Case prep. Tumbler to clean brass, uniformer, chamfer tool inside & out, RCBS precision mic, flash hole deburrer, case trimmer,

A tumbler? Really? For a new reloader just testing the water??? Give the guy a break! That is one item that is NEVER really needed! I started loading in 1975, and I didn't buy a tumbler until this year - and I didn't even NEED it then.

It all depends on what specific caliber he is going to start on - for straight wall handgun loading, I consider all of those a complete waste of time and money UNTIL a new loader gets to the point that he knows he likes the hobby and thinks he has a specific need for each item. Not only will he save startup money at first, but with a bit of experience he will be much more likely to make an informed decision on specific purchases that he will be happy with for a long time.

How many of us have duplicate items on our bench simply because we later decided the first one wasn't really the one we wished we had bought? The best way to save money reloading is to start slow, learn a lot, and do not buy stuff before you know you need it.

[SARuger]

I think your making an excellent decision. I was loosing sleep many years ago when attempting to define what would be the best 1st press purchase. Seems as though you get every possible answer from "buy a cheap single stage" to "spend $1K on a Dillon 650". My 1st press was the Rock Chucker master kit. Got it off Ebay for $300 shipped, and there was a $50 RCBS rebate , so my net cost was $250 , this is a NO BRAINER for the first time reloader. I made SO many rookie mistakes my first few years of handloading, and if I had purchased a complex turret or progressive as my first setup, I would have ended up in the nut house from frustration. Buy a single stage kit, learn and master the basic process, then buy an additional turret or progressive setup. I recently added the LEE Classic Turret and it's an awesome value and speeds up the process of loading smaller 1-200 count lots of bulk ammo. Good luck, keep us posted as to what kit you buy.

And yet I go back and forth........

I am a very decisive person but for some reason this decision is weighing heavy on me. Im tempted to get a Lee Turret and run it as a single stage until I get use to it and eliminate stupid mistakes. That way I can grow into what I have rather than have to upgrade later. The price is very similar($279 for the RCBS Rock Chucker).

Here is the Lee Turret kit from Midway.

It comes with this;
Turret Press with Auto Index
Pro Auto Disk Powder Measure
Large and Small Safety Prime System
Safety Powder Scale
Case Conditioning Kit (Including: Case Trimmer Cutter and Lock Stud, Chamfer Tool, Large and Small Primer Pocket Cleaner, Lee Case Sizing Lube)
Modern Reloading 2nd Edition, Revised Reloading Manual

Some of that I want to upgrade right now. I'm not crazy about the beam type scales. I'm sure they are very accurate, I just want digital. And the case trimmer, I want to upgrade that as well.

It doesn't have a sliding caliper with it so I will have to get one. I'm also ordering the Frankford Arsenal case tumbler kit and scales. I might get the Hornady cam lock case trimmer and then of course my first set of dies(I shoot more .44mag than I do .38/.357, and I shoot more .223 than anything else so I'm not sure where to start), bullets, powder, primers, bullet puller etc.

So I'm looking at +/- $600 to get started, that's a lot for me right now.

So, for all of you that know way more than me, am I on the right track? Is the upgrades I want worth it? Should I put my money into dies/bullets instead of convenience items?

Many questions I know but I want to get this right.

[jimbob86]

The Lee kit lacks the aproprate (cartridge specific) case length guage and shellholder. I did not see dies in there anywhere, either.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/318...der-357-magnum

I use the Lee system chucked into a 3/8" drill for all my case trimming. It's simple, fast and foolproof.

If you get the carbide pistol dies, you won't need to use the lube. I'd recommend going that route.

[Mauser69]

Just looking at all the other stuff I need like case prep etc.

If you are starting with a straight-walled pistol caliber, you do not need ANYTHING for case prep.

But I do think I should add a couple of other comments on dies - I already suggested it was smart to start with Lee dies, but I didn't really say why, other than price. Two other big benefits include "unbreakable" decapping pins and the powder-thru expander die. You never have to use the powder-thru feature, but it is an option for you that you will get with no other brand, And if you later decide you would like to use any of the excellent Lee auto powder measures, you will not have to buy new dies to do so.

And if you are going to load any multiple calibers in the same family (e.g. .38/.357, or .44 spl/.44 mag), make sure you buy the dies for the SMALLEST caliber in the family. Not all manufacturers make this clear, but if you buy a .38 Spl die, you can load .357 Mag too, but the reverse is NOT true.

[SARuger]

The Lee kit lacks the aproprate (cartridge specific) case length guage and shellholder. I did not see dies in there anywhere, either.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/318...der-357-magnum

I use the Lee system chucked into a 3/8" drill for all my case trimming. It's simple, fast and foolproof.

If you get the carbide pistol dies, you won't need to use the lube. I'd recommend going that route.

Thank you, I missed that

See, I need guidance!

[jimbob86]

So, for all of you that know way more than me, am I on the right track? Is the upgrades I want worth it?

We can't really know what you'll be happy with.

Should I put my money into dies/bullets instead of convenience items?

I would, at least at first.

Many questions I know but I want to get this right.

Don't sweat it so much.

Get a manual, a press kit and dies for a straight walled pistol cartridge, some powder, bullets and primers (you did save your brass, right?) ..... read the manual, and make some ammo. Then you'll better understand what you might want in the way of "convenience tools"....

It's not really rocket surgery.... the basic process is just a series of pretty simple steps with simple tools. Get that down and then make it as complicated as you want to.

[SARuger]

I have buckets of brass, my coworkers give me "once fired" all the time. I bet I have a 1,000 .357 cases, 200 .243, another 1,000 or so .223. Probably 300 or so .44mag. and about the same in 30-30. I pick up brass at the range all the time as well(private club range that I am a member of).

Most of the guys there reload so I know if its on the ground, its left by someone that doesn't reload and it probably is once fired.

[jimbob86]

Thank you, I missed that

See, I need guidance!

Glad to help..... when I started, I did not have the internet- no gun forums, no youtube..... and when I tried to ask how to get started, (in a reloading store, of all places!) I was treated poorly by the staff there, who regarded my questions as stupid.... so I try to be helpful when someone else is getting started: I've been in your shoes.

[Road_Clam]

The first must have accesory is a set of dial calipers. No way to skip this step. Generally on your 3rd rifle casing reload you will need to trim the casings.

Do you have a workshop drill press ? If so then you don't need an expensive case trim station. Chuck up these LEE arbors in your drill press and done, trimmed in seconds:
Cutter:
http://leeprecision.com/cutter.html

.223 Arbor:
http://leeprecision.com/cl-gauge-223.html

Lastly you don't need a vibratory tumbler , yes they are nice to have but to start out all you need is a wash bucket, water , vinegar , CLR and some salt to wash the casings. Works great as well.

[SARuger]

Yep! i have a table top drill press and out in my garage/welding shop I have a stand up drill press, so I'm good there.

More great advice! I can use a bucket and I do have a wash basin near my gun room.

[Mauser69]

You will never need to trim pistol cases, no matter how many times you load them. And they won't shoot a danged bit different if they have been washed, tumbled, spit-shined, or gold plated. That step, no matter how you do it, does absolutely nothing except make you feel good (if you care).

And although you probably already have them in your shop, if you are starting with revolver loads, there isn't even any need for calipers. You will crimp the bullets in the crimp groove or cannelure; the OAL is meaningless so long as the cylinder rotates (assuming you are following published load data). And if you are just dying to know the overall length, a ruler is dandy for revolver loads - there is no need to be more accurate than that.

You said above that your estimate of $600 to get started was "a lot for me right now". So why do you keep looking to spend more than you need to? We have told you how to get started for way less.

[SARuger]

You will never need to trim pistol cases, no matter how many times you load them. And they won't shoot a danged bit different if they have been washed, tumbled, spit-shined, or gold plated. That step, no matter how you do it, does absolutely nothing except make you feel good (if you care).

And although you probably already have them in your shop, if you are starting with revolver loads, there isn't even any need for calipers. You will crimp the bullets in the crimp groove or cannelure; the OAL is meaningless so long as the cylinder rotates (assuming you are following published load data). And if you are just dying to know the overall length, a ruler is dandy for revolver loads - there is no need to be more accurate than that.

You said above that your estimate of $600 to get started was "a lot for me right now". So why do you keep looking to spend more than you need to? We have told you how to get started for way less.

I just want to make sure I get what I need and i am listening. My shopping cart is getting smaller at Midway

[Mauser69]

By the way, in case you haven't already noticed, Lee dies come WITH the correct shell holder (other brands generally do not) - another benefit and cost savings. And they even have a powder dipper, which is a very satisfactory way to start loading if you do not spend money on a powder measure.

And you said you really wanted a digital scale - I advise against it for now. Not only is it an unneeded expense, but cheap digitals are notorious for inaccuracies and drifting. I still use the original RCBS beam scale I bought in 1975 - it is absolutely guaranteed to be at least as accurate, and probably more, than any digital scale. If you are going to buy a kit, live with whatever scale it comes with at least until you just cannot stand having any extra money in your pocket.