Hornady Lock-N-Load Classic Kit vs RCBS Explorer Plus Kit

[globemaster3]

I've been sitting for years on the decision to start reloading. I took a basic class offered by Grafs in St Louis when I was stationed at Scott AFB, just to get a feel for it, and own/have read both the Lyman and Hornady manuals.

I was holding out for a Dillon 550 and other parts/pieces that would put the total acquisition cost a little over $1K. But, I've been holding out for years, and changes to my financial situation will delay it more if I stay that course.

So, the wife approaches me the other day, conveying that my 12 year old son wanted to get me reloading gear for Christmas after he and I went on a hunting trip together and discussed the topic in the stand. I explain my conundrum and she agrees that the overall costs would not make it reachable this Christmas. However, I get the Natchez sale flyers in email and recently 2 kits went on sale that could get me into the game sooner, but without the progressive capability of the Dillon. Here's what I am looking at from their flyer:

Hornady Lock-N-Load Classic Kit comes with:
•Lock-N-Load Classic single-stage press
•Lock-N-Load Powder Measure
•Electronic Scale
•The 9th Edition Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading
•Three Lock-N-Load Die Bushings
•Primer Catcher
•Positive Priming System
•Hand-Held Priming Tool
•Universal Reloading Block
•Chamfering and Deburring Tool
•Primer Turning Plate
•One Shot Case Lube
All for $249.

Then there is the RCBS Explorer Plus kit:
•Features Reloader Special - 5 press, Uniflow Powder Measure and Powder Trickler-2
•Includes 1,500-grain Digital Pocket Scale, Nosler 7th Edition Reloading Manual and Hand Priming Tool
•Offers Universal Case Loading Block, Debur Tool, Powder Funnel and Case Slick Spray Lube
•Advanced Powder Measure Stand, Pow’r Pull Kit, Stainless Steel Dial Caliper, Measure Cylinder (small) and Six Die Lock Rings
•Contains No. 2, 3, 4, 10 and 43 Shell Holders
All for $289.

Other than the consumables and dies, I also see no tumbler for cleaning brass.

What are your thoughts on these kits and what else am I missing to get going?

[T. O'Heir]

Biggest and only real difference is the warrantee. RCBS' is on the kit, forever. Have any issues of any kind, and RCBS will fix it with a phone call or e-mail. Even with used kit. or damage you caused.
Hornady's is also a life of the product, but their reloading tools and accessories are warranted against defective materials and workmanship only. And not on used kit.
"...see no tumbler..." Never seen a kit that comes with one from anybody. Lotta guys make one out of stuff around the house. A Frankford Arsenal's Quick-N-EZ Case Tumbler starts at about $50 at Cabela's. Media comes from a pet supply shop in the form of a bag of small pet/lizard bedding. Great big bag(25 quarts. No idea why it's sold by liquid measure. So is ice cream. snicker) of walnut shells runs $17.77 + $5.95 shipping on Amazon. No shipping in Pet Value.

[globemaster3]

T. O'Heir, I agree. I've never seen a tumbler either, but that's what I was unclearly getting at.

So I need a tumbler, and the consumables of bullets, powder, primers. Is there anything else I am missing?

My list I build years ago is buried in a portable hard drive somewhere back at the house. Anything else I need that I am not considering in these kits?

Thanks for the feedback on RCBS. I had no idea about their warranty compared to Hornady.

[springer99]

If the Hornady Kit also includes their offer of 500 free bullets, then it's a much better deal. If the free bullets match what you can use, that's worth another $90-100 off. You can pick up a tumbler from numerous sources for less than $50.00. If you'll be reloading rifle cartridges, you'll also want a dial caliper(digital is fine) and some type of case trimmer. Pistol rounds normally don't need trimming.

[hounddawg]

would red or green go better with your decor ? My bench looks like a Christmas tree, I would say that it is a pretty even split

As far as a tumbler never seen one in a kit but a lot of black Friday sales going on. I saw the Franklin Arsenal Rotary on sale today for about $140

[BBarn]

Looks like the RCBS kit you were considering is out of stock at Natchez at the moment.

The presses are comparable, though I'm not a big fan of the Lock-N-Load bushing system that Hornady uses.

The RCBS powder measure is the one with a small rotor, which covers about 0.5 to 50 grains, so it works well with most pistol and rifle cartridges. The Hornady powder measure comes with the large rotor, which covers about 15 to 100 grains. So the Hornady powder measure is best for rifle or magnum pistol cartridges. Hornady does offer a small rotor for their powder measure which covers about 0.5 to 15 grains, at a cost of about $30. The Hornady powder measure also features removable inserts, which can be left on a particular charge setting and can be quickly “swapped” as you change calibers.

The RCBS kit comes with a powder measure stand, which is a nice accessory if you are setting up a reloading bench.

The RCBS kit comes with a impact bullet puller, which comes in handy more that anyone likes.

About the only other difference is that the RCBS kit comes with some shellholders. If they are ones you need, that's a plus.

The rest of the kit parts are comparable.

And as was pointed out, the Hornady kit includes a “rebate” of 500 bullets if purchased this year. One bullet weight of many popular bullet diameters are available in the rebate. Check out the bullet selection on the GET LOADED redemption form at Hornady's website.

[Stats Shooter]

Here you go boss.

Rock chucker supreme kit from Midwayhttps://www.midwayusa.com/product/93...tage-press-kit

249.99 and ships free. I have a decked out Dillon 550 AND 650 with case and bullet feeder.

Buy I started with a kit just like this....I now have 2 rock chucker presses I STILL frequently use.

You will want a single stage press anyway, even if you get a progressive in the future. Might as well get one if the best now for a great price. And, the Uniflow powder measure is decent and will throw over 100 graines. The scale is excellent . Get this and get started!!!

Only other tools you NEED are a caliper, a trimmer, and the dies of your choice.

I loaded thousands of rounds with that kit plus a trimmer, dies, and caliper.

And honestly, it is more than enough to begin learning how to reload. You can upgrade later.....or not. But you will have good equipment, just slower is all

[globemaster3]

Gents, huge thanks for the inputs and keep it coming.

I will only be reloading rifle, specifically 6.8 SPC, 5.56, .308, and .243, in that priority. I've had the foresight over the years to always hold onto my brass, so I have a sizeable quantity of once fired brass sitting around.

I will be setting up a bench. I have the wood to build what I want to my specs.

I also see the need for some storage containers for prepped/loaded brass as well. I held onto all my boxes and inserts for final storage of loaded cartridges.

Mississippi, good call on Midway. They are only an hour up the road.

[Stats Shooter]

Mississippi, good call on Midway. They are only an hour up the road.

Got my PhD in the Little Apple. EMAW.

[FrankenMauser]

The LNL press is a stronger, "better" press. But the LNL bushing system can be a bonus or a handicap, depending upon who you ask. I'd lean toward the Hornady press.

I prefer the RCBS Uniflow powder measure over the Hornady measure, and the RCBS kit comes with a proper stand for it (not just a stand, but the good stand). But, as noted, you may need to buy the bigger cylinder for rifle charges.

The Hornady hand priming tool is a finger pincher and causes fatigue quicker than other types that I've tried or owned. I don't like it.
The RCBS hand priming tool is my weapon of choice, but it does not get along with some other brands of shell holder (Lee, especially) and some people find changing shell holders (or small/large primer guides) to be tedious and finicky.

Funnels, deburring tools, scales, etc. are a wash.

The RCBS loading block works for some people, but I find it to be a pain in the butt. I don't like the Hornady tray either, but prefer it to the RCBS design. MTM trays are superior.

I think the RCBS powder trickler is better than the Hornady tool, but some would argue (justifiably) that I'm splitting hairs for a trivial subject (they both have their flaws).

The load data included is likely to be the Hornady 10th edition, rather than the listed 9th edition for the Hornady kit. Don't be surprised if the kit contains the new book, if you do purchase one. The RCBS kit, however, has the Nosler manual. I think it's a better manual, but the brand and type of bullets you intend to use the most are a better measure of which is the better choice.

And, of course, the RCBS kit comes with the dial calipers, bullet puller, and shell holders. ...Again, not a huge deal, but a nice bonus.


My money would go to RCBS.
For the tools that matter, their kit has the edge.

---


You don't need a tumbler. Cases can be cleaned chemically or mechanically, the old fashioned way. (Soap and water, citric acid solution bath, wiping down with a rag, polishing with steel wool, etc...)
It takes longer, but it costs next to nothing.

I'm sure we're overlooking a couple other things that should be included in a 'getting started' list, but all I can think of is a method for trimming cases.
The cheap Lee tools do work, but I prefer being able to make adjustments. (The Lee trimmers are fixed.)

[globemaster3]

Huge thanks, Frankenmauser, that was a great detailed rundown.

I expect I will buy more manuals in either situation. My 6.8s are sighted in with 120 grain SSTs. If I recall, my Hornady manual does not have them listed (it's about 5-6 years old), so a new one is in the works. However, Sierra is also right down the road... literally. I expect I will be making quite a few trips over there, especially since they have a retail outlet. I need to go pay them a visit as well, as they could be a veritable treasure trove of good info.

[reloader28]

Since you will need a trimmer and want a cleaner/polisher I might suggest the Lee Ziptrim. Its a plastic piece of junk but cheap and works awesome. I wish someone would come out with a metal version. SUPER fast trim/debur/chamfer and while the brass is on it you can buff it light with a scotch brite pad or steel wool and its completely done in about 10 seconds per piece.

[RC20]

My bias is to RCBS (single stage) as they are lifetime as well as they just send you parts most of the time if something fails.

Hornady can be a pain to deal with, pretty snooty and the don't come close to RCBS in customer service.

Don't get me wrong, I reviewed the Hornady Bullet puller and its great.

They make good bullets, one of the best reloading manuals (though its up to X now)

But like Snap On Tools, its very selective as to what I have.

Their comparators are the only ones and work fine (bullet Ogive and the Shoulder check for setback) .

I still have the RCBS presses I got 30 and 45 years ago (Junior first and then the Rock Chucker)

Pop the pins once in a while when the thing gets squeaky and clean and lube.

Good solid stuff.

[FrankenMauser]

The kits, especially when on sale, are usually the best bang for your buck; but there are almost always one or more items that you'll never use, or just use once or twice before replacing/upgrading.

Of course, there's always the option of picking up the necessities one or two items at a time.
All you really need to get started are:
Press (and a place to mount it - even if only clamped to a desk/table when needed)
Scale
Dies
Shell holder(s)
Measuring device(s)
And components

When just starting out...
You can set aside cases that need to be trimmed, and just load the good ones. (Not likely an issue with once-fired, but always possible.)
Cleaning can be done by hand.
Powder can be thrown by hand (bowl and spoon/scoop).
Primers can be seated on the press.
A loading block is nice to have, but if loading with the 'bare minimum' and hand-thrown charges, powder spillage is easily avoided by never having a case charged unless it's in your hand and heading for the press to get a bullet seated (and a loading block is easy to make with a slab of wood and a selection of drill bits).
Chamfering/deburring could be a potential bottleneck, depending upon your brass and bullets. But the tools are cheap.


---

Whatever you choose to do, get in the habit of good record keeping for your load notes, sooner than later.

Little irritates me more about my own reloads than grabbing a box of ammo that's 20 years old, finally getting around to testing it, checking the data and seeing only, "150 gr SP, 54 gr 4895, 3.215 OAL".

Which 4895? What primer? What brand of 150 gr SP? Brass length? How many times fired?...
I know why I did it. It's because I only used one of the 4895s at the time, and only used one type of rifle primer, and only had one lot of brass for the cartridge, and only used one 150 gr SP bullet, and only had one...
But, now I don't remember what my "only ones" were at that time. So I have to start over, or just forget about the load.

Part of my problem then was that I just used scrap paper (usually quartered pages from a Far Side Calendar), and needing to hand write everything brought out some laziness.
Now, I use Frankford Arsenal stickers. When they're gone, I'll turn to a stockpile of 3.5" floppy disk label sheets that I picked up dirt cheap, and print off a few hundred at a time. The floppy disk labels will be notably cheaper than other options on the market, which I'm not a fan of, anyway.
(Good thing there's a backup plan! In grabbing that link, I found that the FA labels are discontinued.)

[RC20]

I have to laugh.

My dilemma as well.

I try to mark the target and keep in a box.

Each shot is supposed to have the mft of the powder, grains, bullet, COAL (ogive).

I use the same primers most of the time but mark those if changed.

I had a guy come over a couple of weeks ago asking to look so he could come up with better data logs.

Happy to share, its evolving, I am not consistent like I should be.

Not to mention thing easily remember in the past are, when did I do that load and why?

Ammo boxes are all marked with the basic information.

[globemaster3]

Great thoughts, and I appreciate the focus on the logs and labels. I used to reload tons of shotshell (MEC Sizemaster, still have a couple thousand AA hulls) and recall having similar issues with what wad I used, powder, etc as I was trying different loads on the range.

So leaning towards the RCBS at the moment.

[hounddawg]

As FrankenMauser and RC20 said , keeping data logs are crucial and something I was horrible at until I got this program. Not exactly the most user friendly program I have ever used but the author will call you and personally walk you through any problems so 10 thumbs up on CS

https://ontargetshooting.com/

It keeps data on the groups, and in the notes I put in the specifics of the load and weather conditions. If using a chrony. I keep a downloaded record of the velocities and data in spreadsheet form and match the name the xls file to the On Target data file. It only works on windows unfortunately, no Apple or Android versions.

Just a suggestion but it works better than paper for me

[Stats Shooter]

Getting started reloading and having to try and buy everything can be expensive. Many of the tools, gizmos, and gadgets are convenience items or time savers. Some are not.

If you are on a budget, get quality stuff, but just get the minimum to get started. I was in graduate school when I got serious about reloading....and graduate students are poor.

A rock chucker supreme kit comes with everything you need except a trimmer. I reloaded all the way through graduate school with just that kit plus a trimpro 2. Thousands of rounds per year.

I still use that original rock chucker plus have a couple more of them and use them frequently despite having 2 Dillon's and a Forster coax.

[globemaster3]

Mississippi, and that's why I have not started already. I've been interested, took the class, and then priced out my lunch list of top quality stuff. Problem with that concept was that you get what you pay for, and the $$ for my plan has continually forced me to put it off.

Hence, the serious consideration of lesser capable gear so I can get started.

[Stats Shooter]

Mississippi, and that's why I have not started already. I've been interested, took the class, and then priced out my lunch list of top quality stuff. Problem with that concept was that you get what you pay for, and the $$ for my plan has continually forced me to put it off.

Here's the thing, a good single stage press isn't lesser, just slower. An RCBS rock chucker supreme or Redding big boss 2 will church out bench rest quality ammo. The RCBS Uniflow is a solid powder thrower and the RCBS beam scale is as accurate as anything out there. Add in some quality dies and a trimmer and you are in business to make anything you want, with as tight of tolerances as you want.

The Dillon's just do it faster and the power equipment makes some tasks faster.

[globemaster3]

Mississippi, when I said less capable, I was referring to speed.

I'll let you all know how it turns out!

[Stats Shooter]

Mississippi, when I said less capable, I was referring to speed.

Gotcha.

If it wasn't for .223 & 40 S&w, I wouldn't even own a Dillon 650 with case and bullet feeder.
I used to use several single stage presses all setup at the same time and could make plenty of ammo for target shooting and hunting fairly quickly.

But when I started doing some local pistol and AR competitions, it got old making 500 rounds of 223/40 S&w per month on single stage presses plus my F class ammo plus hunting ammo etc.

[globemaster3]

The RCBS box is in the garage. Now just have to wait until Christmas. I'll be coming back with some die recommendations soon.

[RC20]

Good deal.

My take on dies:

Its a bit of a tough one as it varies and they all work.

If you are making hunting or non serious target shooting, they all pretty well work.

RCBS is still my default.

Once you get into more serious target, then keeping the ammo starigher is more important.

To me that has been to move to the Competition dies that seat a bullet strait.

I also remove the expander ball in the sizer dies and use a Lyman M die to do the case mouth. It is much smoother and does not yank on the neck of the case.



I have two of the Micrometer ala Competitions seaters, of those the RCBS with the side slot bullet inverter works better.

They are costly, $70 or so for RCBS. In the case of the RCBS, its does 308 and 30-06 (with a special longer shell holder for the 308) and I shoot both so that is nice.

Forster does only one caliber. Insert under neath. Its a good quality die but I prefer the RCBS.

Both have nice large knobs on top, Redding I looked at and its tiny. RCBS is much less precise for long adjustments but RCBS fine tunes fine. .

While I have other mfg dies I keep defaulting to RCBS (good customer service as well as good quality) .

I have one Forseter 30-06 sizer I tried (acualy it was a set on sale).

Upshot was I got some military formerly crimped stuff mixed up and it broke the stem.

Forster set has a floating stem, works fine until it hits even a slight Remanent of a crimp, then it breaks. hmmm. I had to buy a new stem and Forster had no sympathy . Only time I got an HXP mixed in of course the first time I used it. .

Not that Forster should replace , but RCBS does just replaces stuff like that.

I like the Lee O ring nuts as I can return a die to the former position nicely and also adjust without having to find that particular tiny Allen wrench.

Most of my pistol dies are Lee. They work fine and a bit lower cost.

Most of the rifle dies are RCBS.

Lyman I don't have but I did get their scale and boroscope. I damaged the USB connection on the boro scope (not exactly bench tough) - they just sent a new one. Nice.

Most reloading places carry the RCBS, sometimes in competition and they have the parts often as well. Nice to grab a pin or a stem and get back into business.

[ireload2]

Forget the kits. They just cost you money.
Make friends with a long time loader who will own a lot of extra stuff you can borrow to test. A knowledgable scrounger can get started for about $100 with used stuff. If you start with a Lee whack a mole you might start for $10 plus components.