DPMS barrel removal?

rfxcasey · September 25, 2013, 01:39 AM

Hey all, couple of questions. Wanting to get a DMPS multitool and receiver vise clamp. Any in particular you guys would recommend? I'm trying not to break they bank here so cost is a consideration.

The other question I have is, for minor scratches and such on matte black anodized metal which is better, Birchwood Casey Aluminum black, or Aluma Hyde? Haven't seen too many side by side comparisons.

When removing a barrel nut from an DPMS AR-15, do I have to heat it up to remove any locktite that might have been used, or do they not use locktite on that part of the gun?

Also what is the barrel torque for the barrel nut? I've seen 30lbs but would like to verify that.

Thanks.

stubbicatt · September 25, 2013, 06:59 AM

Maybe a call to DPMS would answer your questions about loctite?

burrhead · October 6, 2013, 02:36 PM

I don't know about the lock tight but i would guess not. Barrel nut torque is a minimum of 35 ft/lbs to a max of 80 ft/lbs. The large variable in torque values is because you have to line up the gas tube holes in the nut and receiver. The installed gas tube MUST free float for accuracy.

**44 AMP** · October 14, 2013, 11:29 AM

Call DPMS and see what they do. I have no idea.

I can tell you the GI spec for the M16A1 was tighten the barrel nut to 35-40ft'lbs, then continue to tighten until the gas tube can be inserted.

I have done that many times back in the 70s while wearing Uncle's green suit.

Tip: Do NOT use the torque wrench to loosen the barrel nut. Use a breaker bar. Also best to use the breaker bar rather than the torque wrench for the final tightening to aline the nut for the gas tube, after torqueing to spec.

hodaka · October 14, 2013, 06:31 PM

I would be shocked if Locktite was used on the barrel nut. The gas tube keeps the nut from turning anyway. Besides, I can's see any reason that the nut needs to be very tight since it just holds the barrel onto the receiver. I don't even think that 35 lbs is needed.The bolt engages the barrel extension and that's where the rubber meets the road (so to speak). I may be missing something so if I am please chime in.

**44 AMP** · October 15, 2013, 01:07 AM

Quote:

I can's see any reason that the nut needs to be very tight..

When it comes to torqueing things, while tight, 35ft/lbs isn't what I'd call very tight. Get about double that and I'd say its very tight.

Mobuck · October 16, 2013, 06:22 AM

Locktite on the barrel nut? I use Never Seize to prevent galling of the threads and have never had a barrel nut come loose. It can't loosen much since the gas tube won't allow that. As hot as some jokers get their AR's, the locktite would soften anyway.

September 25, 2013, 01:39 AM	#1
rfxcasey Member Join Date: February 20, 2013 Posts: 77	DPMS barrel removal? Hey all, couple of questions. Wanting to get a DMPS multitool and receiver vise clamp. Any in particular you guys would recommend? I'm trying not to break they bank here so cost is a consideration. The other question I have is, for minor scratches and such on matte black anodized metal which is better, Birchwood Casey Aluminum black, or Aluma Hyde? Haven't seen too many side by side comparisons. When removing a barrel nut from an DPMS AR-15, do I have to heat it up to remove any locktite that might have been used, or do they not use locktite on that part of the gun? Also what is the barrel torque for the barrel nut? I've seen 30lbs but would like to verify that. Thanks.

October 6, 2013, 02:36 PM	#3
burrhead Senior Member Join Date: July 6, 1999 Location: Chihuahuan desert, Texas Posts: 1,148	I don't know about the lock tight but i would guess not. Barrel nut torque is a minimum of 35 ft/lbs to a max of 80 ft/lbs. The large variable in torque values is because you have to line up the gas tube holes in the nut and receiver. The installed gas tube MUST free float for accuracy. __________________ Join the GOA, SAF and the TSRA I'm offended by people that are easily offended.

October 14, 2013, 11:29 AM	#4
44 AMP Staff Join Date: March 11, 2006 Location: Upper US Posts: 28,820	Call DPMS and see what they do. I have no idea. I can tell you the GI spec for the M16A1 was tighten the barrel nut to 35-40ft'lbs, then continue to tighten until the gas tube can be inserted. I have done that many times back in the 70s while wearing Uncle's green suit. Tip: Do NOT use the torque wrench to loosen the barrel nut. Use a breaker bar. Also best to use the breaker bar rather than the torque wrench for the final tightening to aline the nut for the gas tube, after torqueing to spec. __________________ All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better.

September 25, 2013, 06:59 AM	#2
stubbicatt Senior Member Join Date: September 15, 2007 Posts: 1,707	Maybe a call to DPMS would answer your questions about loctite?

October 14, 2013, 06:31 PM	#5
hodaka Senior Member Join Date: April 23, 2006 Location: South Texas Posts: 2,010	I would be shocked if Locktite was used on the barrel nut. The gas tube keeps the nut from turning anyway. Besides, I can's see any reason that the nut needs to be very tight since it just holds the barrel onto the receiver. I don't even think that 35 lbs is needed.The bolt engages the barrel extension and that's where the rubber meets the road (so to speak). I may be missing something so if I am please chime in.

October 16, 2013, 06:22 AM	#7
Mobuck Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2010 Posts: 6,846	Locktite on the barrel nut? I use Never Seize to prevent galling of the threads and have never had a barrel nut come loose. It can't loosen much since the gas tube won't allow that. As hot as some jokers get their AR's, the locktite would soften anyway.