The Order to Prep Brass

[frjeff]

Newbie question:

Do most folks decap the spent primers before they tumble their brass??

Or, should I just go ahead and tumble and then decap as part of the normal turret press functions...??

Jeff

[indiandave]

I tumble the brass first then decap and resize with the first stage of my press.

[margiesex]

I always decap, resize, and expand the necks then tumble - helps to get some of the gunk out of the primer pocket.

Either way will work.


God bless.

Margiesex

And remember: Hug your God and your guns - 'cause he's coming for them both - and soon!

[tomh1426]

1st Tumble 2nd decap 3rd clean primer pockets (w/ tool) etc. etc.
You dont want to size dirty brass, you end up with dirt dies and scratched brass.

[oneounceload]

You dont want to size dirty brass, you end up with dirt dies and scratched brass.

and that leads to problems.......good words of advice

[CraigC]

1st Tumble 2nd decap 3rd clean primer pockets (w/ tool) etc. etc.
You dont want to size dirty brass, you end up with dirt dies and scratched brass.

That's how I do it. Also, if you tumble after decapping, you'll always end up with media kernels in the flash holes.

[Unclenick]

Pretty much with pistol loads, that's what I do. Tumble then load on a progressive.

With rifle loads I go to the trouble of separate decapping before cleaning. This is for two reasons. One is that there is some evidence that as carbon hardens in primer pockets it becomes abrasive enough to contribute significantly to throat wear at rifle pressures and velocities. So I want to get it out of there to maximize my barrel life.

Secondly, if you are loading for maximum accuracy at long range, you want to insure that your primers are all seating to exactly the same depth and firmness, as to do otherwise will increase muzzle velocity variation which causes vertical stringing when you get out very far. I always figured cleaning the crud out would make that more consistent, though I've not run any tests to prove it. Like meplat uniforming, it is not something you are likely to notice much on the paper before you get out to around 500 yards and beyond.

[Russ5924]

I do it both ways if I don't feel like decapping right then I will clean them. Sometimes I decap them first, have never seen where it made a difference in cleaning. I do all my priming by hand my presses stay cleaner and have zero mistakes when priming. Plus no stopping and starting because of the primers not loading or run out. I have just a small lee press I use to decap using a Universal die have used it on 9mm all the way up to 45colt

[jepp2]

I deprime using a universal decapping die as the first step. Next they get tumbled in fine walnut blast media from Harbor Freight. This avoids the media getting trapped in the flash hole.

Then I store the brass until I am ready for further processing. The sooner you tumble after firing, the easier to clean and less chance the combustion products have to etch the brass.

[BigJimP]

I tumble clean all the brass first - then inspect for cracks, etc

- then I run the cleaned and inspected cases thru a progressive press for resizing and depriming in station 1.

[jimbob86]

..... inspect and clean primer pockets. On hot .357 loads I trim cases ....

For full length resized rifle brass, I don't put them in the tumbler: After sizing, I trim/champfer/de-burr them with the Lee case trimmer set-up chucked into a 3/8" drill. I wrap a rag around them and give them another spin. Clean the primer pocket and reprime.

[Unclenick]

It should be kept in mind the main practical value of tumblers and other case cleaning methods is just to get the grit off so it doesn't score your sizing die or get embedded into the brass by the sizing die from where it can go on to score your chamber. Looking pretty is just a side effect that we mostly like. But whether you clean with a tumbler, a soapy water shake up in a milk jug, or just by wipe-down, do it first and your dies and your chamber will thank you in the end.

[PCJim]

Pistol (straightwall) cases - tumble, then reload on the 550b.

Rifle (bottleneck) cases - tumble, lube, deprime/size, tumble again, about 5-10 minutes to remove the lube, then on to the remaining case prep work before reloading.

Note that if you tumble after depriming, you must check for media in the flash hole if you don't use another depriming step, ie a universal deprimer. If manually checking, lay a sheet of white paper on your reloading bench under good lighting and look thru the rifle case from the mouth end. A clear flash hole will contrast nicely against the dark insides of the case. Media there is easily seen.

[Mark whiz]

I use the universal de-capping die as well. I come home from the range, de-prime all my brass, toss it all into some walnut media and tumble for awhile. The rifle brass I pull out for resizing and then I toss the pistol brass (straight-wall) into some corncob media for final polishing/cleaning before resizing and loading. The rifle brass then gets lubed and resized and then tossed into the corncob to remove the lube and complete the polishing process - then I'm ready to prime & reload.

[RKG]

Pistol and revolver (carbide sizer):

Decap
Tumble
Size & Bell
Prime
Reload

Bottleneck Rifle:

Decap
Wipe down with alcohol
Lube
Size and expand
Tumble
Guage and trim as needed
Prime
Reload

[Dannyl]

HI,

Handguns

Tumble
Decap & resize
Prime
Expand
charge
Seat bullet
(all the steps done on a Lee 1000 Pro)

Rifle

Tumble ( I do not want to put dirty cases in my dies)
Lub
Resize & Decap
Clean primer pocket with RCBS tool
Remove lub
Tumble (yes, again for 20 minutes or so)
Inspect each case and ensure that flash-hole is clear
Measure and trim as required (trim only if it is required)
Prime
Put charge
Seat bullet (immediately afer putting a weighed charge)


Regards,
Danny

[freakshow10mm]

Pistol

Tumble, size, expand/charge, seat, crimp. Tumble after loading to polish.

Rifle

Lube, size, charge, seat. Tumble after loading to remove lube and polish.

Makes pretty ammo.

[ZeSpectre]

Here's how I do it.

1) Tumble with walnut media
2) Decap/Resize
3) Expand the mouth
4) Inspect and clean the primer pocket if necessary

After I've Collected 100 pcs of brass I stick 'em in a ziplock baggie and put 'em in a drawer where they sit until I'm ready to reload.

When I get around to reloading it's....
5) Prime
6) Powder
7) Bullet and crimp
8) Inspect random rounds with calipers

Then once in a while it's a short tumble with corncob media to make 'em really shine pretty

[Dave R]

I must be weird. I tumble twice.

Starting from dirty, empty brass:

1. Tumble to clean
2. Decap and resize
3. Tumble again to remove lube. (Its just faster than wiping each piece individually.)
4. Clean primer pockets as needed.
5. Primer, reload.
6. Empty the brass at the range and go back to 1.

[sophijo]

I "chucked" a primer pocket brush, RCBS I think, in a drill motor. Worked pretty good and got out the chunks of "rouged" walnut media from the flash holes.

[TheNatureBoy]

I always:

Inspect case
Punch the old primer
Lube & resize case
guage and trim if needed
chamfer/deburr
clean primer pockets
tumble

I might have missed a step. Its early, and I'm working on my first cup of coffee.

[Dannyl]

Hi Dave,
I also tumble twice (see my post) in the same sequence as you do.
I reckon there are many more who do just that.

Cheers,

Danny

[dlb435]

I'm not sure there is a perfect order to prep the brass. I've tried several different methods and each has some advantages and drawbacks.

For rifle brass:
For really dirty brass (it was raining/muddy at the range) I'll wash the brass with a strong cleaner first to get the crud off.
For discolored brass, I'll treat it with an industrial strenth airconditioner cleaner. (don't over do it, this can etch the brass)
If you just have clean fired brass or have cleaned up your brass, this is the starting point.
Now you have a choice: decap; decap and resize or tumble.

Advantage of decaping only - you start with brass only.
Disadvantages: you will have to resize latter, you will get some cleaning media stuck in the primer pocket, add an extra step to clean off the resizing lube.
Advantage of decap and resize - You get this all done in one step, the tumbler will remove the sizing lube. Brass is ready to reload after tumbling.
Disadvantage: Can scratch the brass or the dies if your brass was not clean, shortens media life as you build up lube, media gets stuck in the primer pocket.
Advantage of tumbling: Really clean polished brass to work with. Minimal chance of harming either the brass or the dies.
Disadvantage: The brass will have to be cleaned after resizing. You can either wipe them off or put them back in the tumbler with untreated media.

I've found the most efficient method is to just clean off the brass (I usually just blow off the dirt with compessed air) decap and resize. Then the brass is tumbled, bagged and put away until I'm ready to reload.

I have a progressive reloader, so having the brass processed before reloading makes he whole process go much easier. I have a single stage press that I use just to decap and resize.

For pistol or straight wall brass:
Run it through the tumbler and bag it.
Use carbide dies and don't use any case lube.

[Linear Thinker]

My brass prep:

Handgun brass, range pickups:

Ultrasonic wash, dry
Vibra tumble with walnut media
Ultrasonic wash to get the walnut dust off
Decap & resize on a progressive, I have a dedicated 1050 for brass prep
Vibra tumble with corn cobs and jewelers rouge
Ultrasonic wash to get the abrasive dust off
for 40 S&W, 38 Super and 9mm only: Case-pro resize to get rid of the base bulge.
ready to load on a progressive, I use a 1000 for large pistol primed ammo, and a 1050 for small primed

Rifle - range brass of unknown origin, for blasting loads

Ultrasonic wash, dry - to get rid of range dirt
Resize & Decap
Ultrasonic wash, dry - to get rid of sizing lube, I use oil based Dillon 5000 (out of production unfortunately)
Vibra tumble with corn cobs and jewelers rouge
Ultrasonic wash to get the abrasive dust off
Inspect brass for incipient casehead separation signs, split necks, etc.
Inspect flash hole, clean/square the primer pocket with a carbide tool, I think it's K&M
Measure and trim if required on a Lyman trimmer
Prime, charge, seat, LEE FCD crimp on a Dillon 550

Rifle - accuracy loads, my brass by batch, I keep track of number of reloads

Ultrasonic wash, dry - get rid of residue
Resize & Decap
Ultrasonic wash, dry - to get rid of sizing lube
Inspect brass for defects as above
Inspect flash hole and primer pocket
re-anneal every 5 reloads with a propane loop torch and a water pan, I do it outdoors in the evening so I can gage the brass temp by eye
for magnum brass, re-size the magnum belt area with a collet die every 5 reloads
Measure and trim if required, I use both a small lathe and a Lyman trimmer. Some calibers need it often, others just once
If I am feeling extra-retentive, turn the necks with a Hart cutter
Prime with a Sinclair primer seater
ready to single-load!

LT

[ir3e971]

For pistol

1. Tumble
2. Size and de-prime (one step)
3. Bell case mouth
4. Fill up a jar or bag with prepped brass for later batch reloading

Then

5. Prime
6. Powder
7. Seat bullet and crimp (can be one or two steps depending on caliber, type of dies, and pistol type)

For rifle (except 223)

1. tumble
2. size and deprime
3. tumble briefly to remove case lube
4. prime
5. powder
6. seat bullet

For 223

1. decap on universal decapper (I kept losing pins to small holes in primer pockets on my resizing die, so I just do this as an individual step.
2. tumble
3. size and deprime
4. tumble briefly to remove case lube
5. prime
6. powder
7. seat bullet