relining barrel??

Grant 14 · June 23, 2022, 08:25 PM

I am going to have a machinist reline a barrel. My question is "Should I reline first and then blue or should I have it blued and then reline???". I am concerned that blueing after relining might leave acid between the liner and the barrel and cause corrosion. Any ideas? Thanks, Grant.

**4V50 Gary** · June 23, 2022, 10:00 PM

I'd reline first.

tangolima · June 23, 2022, 10:42 PM

It depends on the type of blueing. Cold blue or rust blue, I will reline first. Hot blue will probably go the other way around.

-TL

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Scorch · June 24, 2022, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Should I reline first and then blue or should I have it blued and then reline???

Bluing is finishing. The reason it is called"finishing" is that it's the last step in the process.

Quote:

I am concerned that blueing after relining might leave acid between the liner and the barrel and cause corrosion.

Bluing does not involve acids, it uses very caustic alkaline/basic salts in a high temperature solution.

If the bluing is done properly, you should not have any salts left once it's rinsed, but I know it happens a lot. If your liner is installed properly, you should not have any gaps for the salts to seep into.

Bill DeShivs · June 25, 2022, 02:35 PM

The heat from hot bluing could affect the solder or epoxy bond holding the liner in.

tangolima · June 25, 2022, 03:49 PM

Salt solution in hot blueing attacks soldering. No problem if rust blueing or cold blueing is used for finishing. Epoxy glue has become popular for relining. It could be ok.

-TL

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Jim Watson · June 26, 2022, 10:40 AM

Glued in liners are common now. Will your glue stand the 285 deg F of a hot blue tank?

tangolima · June 26, 2022, 11:42 AM

Didn't reline a barrel with epoxy. But I will use high temperature epoxy considering the heat of firing gun. High temp epoxy works up to 600F (315C).

Salt solution is aqueous. Its boiling point should be similar to water, which is 212F (100C). 280F (140C) sounds a bit high, but it is not impossible. The steam in rust blueing should be cooler than that.

All in all, the type of blueing is definitely a factor to consider.

-TL

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Jim Watson · June 26, 2022, 03:13 PM

Solubles in water raise the boiling point (and lower the freezing point.)
Hot blue tank concentration should be adjusted to keep it boiling at 285F (or as specified by the salts vendor.) Vaporize enough water to raise the concentration and therefore the boiling point, and you get that purple hue.

Temperature in a rust blue humidity cabinet should be well below boiling.

tangolima · June 26, 2022, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Watson

Solubles in water raise the boiling point (and lower the freezing point.)
Hot blue tank concentration should be adjusted to keep it boiling at 285F (or as specified by the salts vendor.) Vaporize enough water to raise the concentration and therefore the boiling point, and you get that purple hue.

Temperature in a rust blue humidity cabinet should be well below boiling.

That's what I thought too. The chemicals can change the boiling point.

The vapor temperature in rust blueing humidity chamber is nothing. It is the during the conversion process that's high. I would think it is slightly higher than water boiling as it is not pressurized.

-TL

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Jim Watson · June 26, 2022, 04:21 PM

The temperature in the conversion tank should be right at the boiling point corrected for altitude, since it is supposed to be clean water.

Grant 14 · June 26, 2022, 07:50 PM

Well I know a lot more now. I need to talk to the smithy that is going to do the bluing. I am not sure what method he uses. Thanks to all. Grant.

tangolima · June 26, 2022, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Watson

The temperature in the conversion tank should be right at the boiling point corrected for altitude, since it is supposed to be clean water.

Steam could also be used too (my preferred method). It is still around boiling point of water. Could be slightly higher if pressure is elevated in the steam pipe.

I can't do hot blueing, so rust blueing is the farthest I can go. It is actually pretty nice. Cold blue isn't bad if done right.

-TL

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**4V50 Gary** · June 27, 2022, 08:55 AM

If you want to do it yourself, consider express bluing. Buy a bottle from Brownell's.

June 23, 2022, 08:25 PM	#1
Grant 14 Senior Member Join Date: February 10, 2018 Posts: 167	relining barrel?? I am going to have a machinist reline a barrel. My question is "Should I reline first and then blue or should I have it blued and then reline???". I am concerned that blueing after relining might leave acid between the liner and the barrel and cause corrosion. Any ideas? Thanks, Grant.

June 23, 2022, 10:00 PM	#2
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,831	I'd reline first. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

June 25, 2022, 02:35 PM	#5
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,981	The heat from hot bluing could affect the solder or epoxy bond holding the liner in. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

June 27, 2022, 08:55 AM	#14
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,831	If you want to do it yourself, consider express bluing. Buy a bottle from Brownell's. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

June 23, 2022, 10:42 PM	#3
tangolima Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2013 Posts: 3,814	It depends on the type of blueing. Cold blue or rust blue, I will reline first. Hot blue will probably go the other way around. -TL Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

June 25, 2022, 03:49 PM	#6
tangolima Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2013 Posts: 3,814	Salt solution in hot blueing attacks soldering. No problem if rust blueing or cold blueing is used for finishing. Epoxy glue has become popular for relining. It could be ok. -TL Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

June 26, 2022, 10:40 AM	#7
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,535	Glued in liners are common now. Will your glue stand the 285 deg F of a hot blue tank?

June 26, 2022, 11:42 AM	#8
tangolima Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2013 Posts: 3,814	Didn't reline a barrel with epoxy. But I will use high temperature epoxy considering the heat of firing gun. High temp epoxy works up to 600F (315C). Salt solution is aqueous. Its boiling point should be similar to water, which is 212F (100C). 280F (140C) sounds a bit high, but it is not impossible. The steam in rust blueing should be cooler than that. All in all, the type of blueing is definitely a factor to consider. -TL Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

June 26, 2022, 03:13 PM	#9
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,535	Solubles in water raise the boiling point (and lower the freezing point.) Hot blue tank concentration should be adjusted to keep it boiling at 285F (or as specified by the salts vendor.) Vaporize enough water to raise the concentration and therefore the boiling point, and you get that purple hue. Temperature in a rust blue humidity cabinet should be well below boiling.

June 26, 2022, 04:21 PM	#11
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,535	The temperature in the conversion tank should be right at the boiling point corrected for altitude, since it is supposed to be clean water.

June 26, 2022, 07:50 PM	#12
Grant 14 Senior Member Join Date: February 10, 2018 Posts: 167	Well I know a lot more now. I need to talk to the smithy that is going to do the bluing. I am not sure what method he uses. Thanks to all. Grant.