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February 20, 2017, 09:14 AM | #1 |
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Alternative Products, Lubricants and Protectorants
We have had this discussion on here from time to time. There are many diverse ideas for lubricants and protectorants. A few years ago I attended a school at a facility and the long-arms instructor there had a sizeable arsenal and facility and a considerable amount of practical experience. He was soaking his AKs and ARs and Handguns in "SIMPLE GREEN" and getting extremely satisfactory results in cleaning. He was lubricating with common engine oil. His equipment was excellant and very serviceable and clean with a minimal amount of scrubbing. He had other products in stock, but mostly used the engine oil and simple green.
I currently clean and lube and protect my smokeless powder guns with Hoppes products and Lucas oil and common 3-in-1 oil. I have noticed the common and basic 3-in-1 oil to be very good. 3-in-1 oil seems to stay in place and it seems to lift dirt out of the tiny areas for easy clean-up. Its cheap and plentiful everywhere. The Hoppes gun oil is very satisfactory too. I also have some mixed products I use on occasion; however; with a reasonably clean gun, Hoppes products does fine for general cleaup. My black powder guns I use only hot dish-soap water, a long and thorough hot water rinse, and a very thorough drying. I then use only Canola oil to protect. I dont use petroleum products on black powder guns. Canola is Canadian Oil Low Acid; basically steamed rape-seed oil like that used on steam engine cylinder anti-seize oil. Grocery store variety is good. I have in-stock a container of STP synthetic oil treatment (unopened) and I wonder what opinions are on this forum in using such a product on firearms? What is the synthetic made of? Would there be any advantage in cleaning and lubricating with this product or other products like it? |
February 20, 2017, 02:00 PM | #2 |
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I can't speak to the STP product. But I find that, in most circumstances, it doesn't really matter what you use to clean or lube. I clean my guns after each use and don't generally have to worry about stubborn deposits.
For clean guns that are going to be stored for a while in a climate controlled environment, I just make sure that there is a very thin coat of oil on all metallic surfaces. I typically apply the thin coat and then blot it in order to make sure there's no accumulation. |
February 20, 2017, 04:11 PM | #3 |
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Canola oil is salad oil. Isn't great for protecting anything except lettuce.(doesn't protect that either) Being developed into biodiesel fuel in Europe, but that doesn't make it protect anything. Used as an agricultural bug repellent too.
3-in-1 oil is light oil. Mostly used as a penetrating oil, but it'll protect your BP stuff way better than salad oil. And it's mostly the water that cleans out the BP salts. The soap just makes 'em smell better. SIMPLE GREEN is detergent. Removes grease. Engine oil works as well as anything as a solvent. The CF gave us nothing but 10-30 motor oil to clean everything from MG's to .22's. 'STP' stands for Synthetic Oil Treatment. Originally called Scientifically Treated Petroleum though. MSDS is here. http://www.stp.com/products/oil-addi...-oil-treatment Wouldn't be any better than anything else except you can likely get it in a bigger can.
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February 21, 2017, 05:01 PM | #4 |
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I use canola oil for heat treating in my shop.
I would never use it as a lubricant or protectant. |
February 21, 2017, 06:03 PM | #5 |
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Marvel Mystery Oil is a pretty good solvent, and has a minty smell that doesn't draw the ire of the rest of the household.
It also has some lubricating and protecting qualities, so it's better than some of the solvents that strip everything from the surface. The last time I had my Garand apart, I stripped all the bearing grease off and replaced it with Mobil 1 grease. The gun ran well; I know some people who have used nothing but Mobil 1 oil on their guns for years. I generally hate the smell of motor oil. Guys I know who have shown up at the range without any oil will sometimes pull the lid from the power steering reservoir in their car and use that, and I think ATF is one of the ingredients in "Ed's Red" solvent. I've tried a lot of different stuff, but decided that in the small quantities used, the expense of gun-specific products doesn't drive me to find alternatives. I'm now using Strike Hold as solvent and preservative, and Wilson Ultimalube oil and grease.
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February 23, 2017, 06:44 AM | #6 |
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A few years ago, one of our members did his own experiments with a whole bunch of products and posted the results here.
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February 23, 2017, 11:34 AM | #7 |
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About anything will work, as long as you keep some on the working surfaces.
I have long heard "don't put petroleum products on black powder guns." I also hear how good Ballistol is, and use it myself in spite of the unpleasant oder, but it is plainly labeled "mineral oil." |
February 23, 2017, 11:42 AM | #8 |
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Simple Green is a water-based cleaner; I do not think it is the best choice for cleaning guns
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February 23, 2017, 12:39 PM | #9 |
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I used Simple Green for years to disassemble, clean and inspect customers guns. It works fine in a diluted mixture. Use compressed air to blow out the excess, hose it down with Breaker CLP, and wipe off the excess.
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February 23, 2017, 12:45 PM | #10 |
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For a protectant, carnuba wax is good. Works for both metal and wood.
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February 23, 2017, 02:17 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
The guys on the web page "Bob is the Oil Guy" claim that Marvel Mystery Oil is a mix of mineral spirits and mineral oil. Nothing special, but very expensive for what you get. I use all sorts of oils, a good one with rust inhibiting properties is CRC 3-36 3-36® Multi-Purpose Lubricant & Corrosion Inhibitor, 11 Wt Oz http://www.crcindustries.com/product...result/?q=3-36
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