rem 1100 reassembly lube

Buzzard Bait · June 7, 2011, 04:18 PM

Some time back a friend brought me his Remington 1100 in a bag. He had taken it apart to clean and couldn't get the right combination to put it together again. It had been apart for years and had rusted some on the barrel. I got all the rust off and took the barrel down to bare metal and re-blued it with Belgium blue. Took me a while but I got it looking good, I'm ready to reassemble and return it. My question is what kind of lube should I use on the rings? I have never had a 1100, to me shot guns are pumps I sort of think the sun rises and sets over model 12 Winchesters.
So should I use a light oil on the rings or a grease, also the rings were inside the barrel lug instead of on the mag tube is that a problem?

Thanks
bb

GURU1911 · June 7, 2011, 05:41 PM

I think that some silicone or other syn-grease would be the correct thing to do, on the seals & rings.

A texas brother in austin county !!!!!

Guru1911

Scorch · June 7, 2011, 11:12 PM

There is a synthetic grease on the market called Super Lube. Works like a charm. Or just about any light grease, like white lithium or similar.

GURU1911 · June 8, 2011, 09:43 AM

I happen to have a tube of "super lube" grease in my toolbox & totally agree with you, that it is a gooooooood product!!!!

Guru1911

oneounceload · June 8, 2011, 10:43 AM

If you are talking the brass friction piston rings, Remington owner's manual says to leave then dry. Some use a light dry-lube or similar from Remington.

Use a fine spray of oil on the trigger group

Buzzard Bait · June 8, 2011, 11:27 AM

what about the rings being in the barrel lug instead of on the tube? Is that a problem they weren't just in there they were frozen there I had a hard time removing them.
bb

Pahoo · June 8, 2011, 11:52 AM

Quote:

what about the rings being in the barrel lug instead of on the tube?

I bought a used slug barrel and sure enough, one of the rings was stuck tight in the piston housing or what you might be calling the barrel lug. Obviously, the previous owner was not into basic cleaning. It took me some effort to free it up. Don't know how that 1100 functioned without this ring.

I know that this is not your situation for being down south would not present the following problem. Up north, you really have to watch what lubricants you use and I mostly go with a dry teflon especially after having 1100 freeze up on me one very cold morning. Just gave up and called it a day . ...

Be Safe !!!

Buzzard Bait · June 8, 2011, 03:25 PM

The rings being stuck in what I called the barrel lug but is maybe more correctly the piston housing made me fear that the housing walls were worn and not parallel sort of pot bellied or am I just worrying over nothing supposedly the gun was running fine when disassembled
bb

Pahoo · June 8, 2011, 06:46 PM

Quote:

I just worrying over nothing supposedly the gun was running fine when disassembled

Probably as we all do this, from time to time. Clean it as best you can, make sure your O-Ring isn't damaged and see how it functions. My bet is that you should be okay. Have see scoring, plenty of fouling but never a bulge as you have described. Oh yes,make sure your ports are clrear, mine has two.

Be Safe !!!

Clemson · June 9, 2011, 02:28 PM

Lube the magazine tube, seal and piston with Breakfree CLP. It dries and leaves a film of dry lube on the works. Do NOT use grease.

Clemson

oneounceload · June 9, 2011, 04:35 PM

Do NOT put ANY petroleum product on the rubber O-ring or it will fail in short order - I know that to be true from personal experience.

Clemson · June 9, 2011, 05:05 PM

I run a gunsmithing shop for a living. I use Breakfree CLP to both clean and lubricate the components of the 1100. I learned the practice from the Remington Factory Repair Service. The Barrel Seal is NOT an O-ring. It is made of a more exotic elastomer, and can be cleaned with Breakfree, soaked in Breakfree, etc. If the seal has been replaced with a hardware store O-ring, it may be susceptible. A note that folks seem not to understand: The barrel seal (aka "O-ring") is not a moving part. It simply sits there and seals the gasses off. Properly cared for, this seal can last for decades without problems.

Clemson

Buzzard Bait · June 10, 2011, 11:16 AM

Thanks guys I'm going to put it together with a new "O" ring seal that is the real thing from Remington I'm going to lube it lightly with clp and be done. I learned how to blue with the Belgium blue which I am going to call a success. It came out looking very good, it took some time and the area under the vent rib was difficult but I learned the process and will use it again. As for my original thought I still think Winchester model 12s are the best thing that ever knocked a dove out of the sky. You guys can keep the rest.
bb

Ludarue · June 10, 2011, 11:43 AM

Quote:

I use Breakfree CLP to both clean and lubricate the components of the 1100.

I have been using breakfree on my 1100 for a long time now and have never had any issues with the ring or anything else from using it.

MOshooter65202 · June 12, 2011, 11:35 AM

What has always worked for my Dad and I in the Rem 1100's is a white graphite,Dad an avid bird hunter (Quail) bought his first 1100 the year they came out 1963.He ran into problems in the colder months with oil lubes they would get cold and gum up,after switching to the white graphite no problems with the 1100 cycling in freezing temps.
The reason he used white graphite?
He first used regular black graphite after a full day out in the field he would have black graphite all over his hands and face even the white short haired pointers had black heads from Dad petting them LOL

June 7, 2011, 04:18 PM	#1
Buzzard Bait Senior Member Join Date: June 25, 2008 Location: Republic of Texas Posts: 502	rem 1100 reassembly lube Some time back a friend brought me his Remington 1100 in a bag. He had taken it apart to clean and couldn't get the right combination to put it together again. It had been apart for years and had rusted some on the barrel. I got all the rust off and took the barrel down to bare metal and re-blued it with Belgium blue. Took me a while but I got it looking good, I'm ready to reassemble and return it. My question is what kind of lube should I use on the rings? I have never had a 1100, to me shot guns are pumps I sort of think the sun rises and sets over model 12 Winchesters. So should I use a light oil on the rings or a grease, also the rings were inside the barrel lug instead of on the mag tube is that a problem? Thanks bb Last edited by Buzzard Bait; June 7, 2011 at 10:35 PM.

June 7, 2011, 05:41 PM	#2
GURU1911 Senior Member Join Date: December 22, 2010 Location: SEALY, THE REPUBLIC OF TEXAS Posts: 501	Greetings from sealy !!!! I think that some silicone or other syn-grease would be the correct thing to do, on the seals & rings. A texas brother in austin county !!!!! Guru1911 __________________ NRA LIFE MEMBER (1984) & PRESIDENT: S.W. LA. R&P CLUB, LAKE CHARLES, LOUISIANA (1994-1999) METALLIC CARTRIDGE RELOADER (1977) & GENTILE CHRISTIAN ZIONIST INFIDEL !!! "THERE AIN'T TOO MANY THINGS THAT YOU CAN'T FIX, WITH $500 DOLLARS OR A .30-06"

June 7, 2011, 11:12 PM	#3
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	There is a synthetic grease on the market called Super Lube. Works like a charm. Or just about any light grease, like white lithium or similar. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

June 8, 2011, 09:43 AM	#4
GURU1911 Senior Member Join Date: December 22, 2010 Location: SEALY, THE REPUBLIC OF TEXAS Posts: 501	Whasssup, scorch !!!! I happen to have a tube of "super lube" grease in my toolbox & totally agree with you, that it is a gooooooood product!!!! Guru1911 __________________ NRA LIFE MEMBER (1984) & PRESIDENT: S.W. LA. R&P CLUB, LAKE CHARLES, LOUISIANA (1994-1999) METALLIC CARTRIDGE RELOADER (1977) & GENTILE CHRISTIAN ZIONIST INFIDEL !!! "THERE AIN'T TOO MANY THINGS THAT YOU CAN'T FIX, WITH $500 DOLLARS OR A .30-06"

June 8, 2011, 11:27 AM	#6
Buzzard Bait Senior Member Join Date: June 25, 2008 Location: Republic of Texas Posts: 502	Rings stuck in barrel lug what about the rings being in the barrel lug instead of on the tube? Is that a problem they weren't just in there they were frozen there I had a hard time removing them. bb

June 8, 2011, 10:43 AM	#5
oneounceload Junior member Join Date: April 18, 2008 Location: N. Central Florida Posts: 8,518	If you are talking the brass friction piston rings, Remington owner's manual says to leave then dry. Some use a light dry-lube or similar from Remington. Use a fine spray of oil on the trigger group

June 8, 2011, 03:25 PM	#8
Buzzard Bait Senior Member Join Date: June 25, 2008 Location: Republic of Texas Posts: 502	what worried me was The rings being stuck in what I called the barrel lug but is maybe more correctly the piston housing made me fear that the housing walls were worn and not parallel sort of pot bellied or am I just worrying over nothing supposedly the gun was running fine when disassembled bb

June 9, 2011, 02:28 PM	#10
Clemson Senior Member Join Date: March 9, 2001 Location: Greenwood, SC Posts: 875	Lube the magazine tube, seal and piston with Breakfree CLP. It dries and leaves a film of dry lube on the works. Do NOT use grease. Clemson __________________ NRA Endowment Member, NRA Certified Instructor CWP Holder US Army veteran Gunsmith www.boltandbarrel.com

June 9, 2011, 04:35 PM	#11
oneounceload Junior member Join Date: April 18, 2008 Location: N. Central Florida Posts: 8,518	Do NOT put ANY petroleum product on the rubber O-ring or it will fail in short order - I know that to be true from personal experience.

June 9, 2011, 05:05 PM	#12
Clemson Senior Member Join Date: March 9, 2001 Location: Greenwood, SC Posts: 875	I run a gunsmithing shop for a living. I use Breakfree CLP to both clean and lubricate the components of the 1100. I learned the practice from the Remington Factory Repair Service. The Barrel Seal is NOT an O-ring. It is made of a more exotic elastomer, and can be cleaned with Breakfree, soaked in Breakfree, etc. If the seal has been replaced with a hardware store O-ring, it may be susceptible. A note that folks seem not to understand: The barrel seal (aka "O-ring") is not a moving part. It simply sits there and seals the gasses off. Properly cared for, this seal can last for decades without problems. Clemson __________________ NRA Endowment Member, NRA Certified Instructor CWP Holder US Army veteran Gunsmith www.boltandbarrel.com

June 10, 2011, 11:16 AM	#13
Buzzard Bait Senior Member Join Date: June 25, 2008 Location: Republic of Texas Posts: 502	thanks Thanks guys I'm going to put it together with a new "O" ring seal that is the real thing from Remington I'm going to lube it lightly with clp and be done. I learned how to blue with the Belgium blue which I am going to call a success. It came out looking very good, it took some time and the area under the vent rib was difficult but I learned the process and will use it again. As for my original thought I still think Winchester model 12s are the best thing that ever knocked a dove out of the sky. You guys can keep the rest. bb

June 12, 2011, 11:35 AM	#15
MOshooter65202 Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2011 Posts: 471	What has always worked for my Dad and I in the Rem 1100's is a white graphite,Dad an avid bird hunter (Quail) bought his first 1100 the year they came out 1963.He ran into problems in the colder months with oil lubes they would get cold and gum up,after switching to the white graphite no problems with the 1100 cycling in freezing temps. The reason he used white graphite? He first used regular black graphite after a full day out in the field he would have black graphite all over his hands and face even the white short haired pointers had black heads from Dad petting them LOL

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search