April 15, 2016, 05:21 PM | #1 |
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Primer crimp removal
I know this question gets asked alot so i made a quick video on how to remove crimps the easy way. Hope it helps somebody. https://youtu.be/AeNMHn-SLvk
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April 15, 2016, 07:40 PM | #2 |
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Thanks for your time to help out someone.
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April 15, 2016, 07:51 PM | #3 |
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No problems. Thinking of creating some more short vids on reloading from start to end to help out those thinking of getting into the hobby.
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April 16, 2016, 10:40 AM | #4 |
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Thanks for the video. I won't be picky...
I'm a K.I.S.S kinda guy and show new reloaders the way I remove crimps (without expensive specialized equipment) using a $10.00 countersink. Quick, easy, inexpensive...
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April 16, 2016, 11:07 AM | #5 |
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The case prep xpress wasnt cheap but the primer remover was 8 buck on amazon. It could be used in a drill maybe even by hand. I like it because no worries of removing brass that u shouldnt be.
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April 16, 2016, 12:22 PM | #6 |
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cast trim and prep
had been using a lee case trimmer chucked in a drill. worked just fine but my old fingers couldn't take it any longer. found a frankford arsenal case trim and prep for fifty bucks. works great and the primer crimp remover does a great job on military brass which I use a lot.
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April 16, 2016, 02:02 PM | #7 |
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In my opinion if you have a couple of thousand pieces of Lake City 5.56 crimped primer brass, there is nothing cheaper than the Dillon Super Swage 600.
Your fingers will thank you. |
April 17, 2016, 08:27 AM | #8 |
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I use my double ended, chamfer tool, chucked in a bench drill press for removing military style primer crimps. In operation, the chamfer tool is chucked up and held by the rod end of the outside chamfer end and the drill press is adjusted to its slowest speed. You could probably do the same with a hand drill, clamped to your bench top.
First, I deprime all of the brass that needs to be de-crimped, then hold each case, empty primer cup up, against the spinning inside chamfer end. A light touch is needed, and only a fraction of a second will remove the crimp. A cpl of trials; will tell you how long to hold the case against the spinning tool. HTH's Rod
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April 17, 2016, 11:11 AM | #9 |
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swage them out
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April 17, 2016, 12:42 PM | #10 |
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I use the RCBS swaging die as well. Works good......
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April 17, 2016, 02:53 PM | #11 |
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I have a load of LC brass that 2 different swages won't take it out. I have been using a titanium chamfer tool I a drill, then still have to swage some. Have been thinking about the Dillon tool.
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April 17, 2016, 03:15 PM | #12 |
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The Dillon is another swager, but stronger than the press-mounted ones. I recommend you deburr the flash holes before using it so its anvil can't flatten burr edges down over the flash holes. But I never saw a Lake City case it wouldn't handle.
You can, by the way, use a Q-tip to put a little case lube in each pocket to make swaging easier, but I would clean it out afterward.
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April 17, 2016, 04:03 PM | #13 |
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I also have not found a piece of Lake City 5.56 brass the Dillon did not easily take care in one easy quick pull. It also comes with the tips that take care of 30 caliber (.308 in my case) and one for .45ACP. I have not used either of the other tips but have easily gone through well over 5000 pieces of LC 5.56.
Link: https://www.dillonprecision.com/supe...8_8_25263.html You should view some of the youtubes of people using it in fancy ways like a rubber band to spring it back and throw the de-primed brass into a collecting box. It is impressive. |
April 17, 2016, 05:08 PM | #14 |
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Right now I am depriming, cleaning, chamfer primer pocket, swage if needed, size (with decapper in place), prime, trim (with WFT), outside mouth debur, inside debur, store for loading.
Lots harder than inspecting, cleaning, and tossing in the 650 hopper and loading, like for .45 acp. I may try the Dillon swage before I start on another batch of 1000 LC brass. I got lots of time while recovering from back surgery, but would like to cut down on the tedious work. Can't shoot anything but .22 and .223, so centerfire pistols and rifles are out.
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