June 20, 2010, 06:15 PM | #1 |
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reloading help
I've log been interested in reloading and have done some reading on it. While I understand the basic process, I think if I could get my eyes on some equipment and actually watch 2 or 3 rounds being pressed, I could finally wrap my brain around the process and all the equipment. It annoys me because it seems like it should be a simple thing, but I'm not a great learner by reading. Is there anyone in the Colorado Springs area that wouldn't mind giving a quick demonstration?
The other thing that gets me is I've read lists on "What you need to get started" and they are often very different. PS--I am interested in loading .223 and .30-06 only. Last edited by ndking1126; June 20, 2010 at 06:21 PM. |
June 20, 2010, 07:03 PM | #3 |
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good idea.. will do.
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June 20, 2010, 07:28 PM | #4 |
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Did it help you?
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June 20, 2010, 08:01 PM | #5 |
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lol, most are too wordy and go into too much detail for what I was looking for. Found 1 that was just the equipment doing it's thing. That one was pretty helpful. Music wasn't at all up my alley though
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvEuFkm-svQ |
June 20, 2010, 08:02 PM | #6 |
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One question though. What is the difference in 1, 2 or 3 piece dies? When would I want one over the other?
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June 20, 2010, 08:23 PM | #7 |
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Dies aren't 1, 2, or 3 piece. The die SETS are 2 or 3 piece die sets. Two piece sets are for rifle loading. The first die resizes the brass, the second seats the bullet. It can also crimp the bullet slightly although for 30-06 you might want to use a separate Lee FCD(factory crimp die). The 3 piece sets are for pistol and some straight-walled rifle cases. The first die resizes the case, the second puts a slight bell on the case mouth to help seat the bullet, and the third die seats the bullet and again crimps but here again you might want to use the Lee FCD die for a good crimp.
The sizing die can be used to deprime the case in both sets. Priming can be done in the press but I would highly recommend something off the press like the RCBS Autoprime tool. Fast and easy. I would further recommend some good books on reloading. The ABC's of Reloading has long been kind of a standard bible for reloading. You also need several good reloading manuals, and I would recommend Hornady and/or Speer, plus maybe Hornady. There are more good ones. Get several because you will discover the manufacturers often list loads for their own products only and if you're like most of us, you will end up with a mixture of bullets and powder from several different companies. The internet is also a good source of reference material. Just remember: believe half of what you hear and one tenth of what you read on the internet. NEVER accept anyone's load suggestions without first checking your manuals. Start low and work up each and every load. Every time. |
June 20, 2010, 10:47 PM | #8 |
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thanks for that info. I went on midwayusa and was reading the about the die sets and I now see what you said mirrored in the descriptions of the products. It's starting to make sense now.
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June 20, 2010, 11:14 PM | #9 |
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Watch this video from Lee:
http://www.leeprecision.com/html/Hel...5%20case-1.wmv It's a turret press. The process is virtually identical on any press, it's just that you do it all at once to 4 or 5 cases in a progressive, step by step with a single case using subsequent handle pulls in a turret or one step at a time with a single stage.
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June 21, 2010, 08:34 AM | #10 |
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ammosmith.com has loads of reloading info, videos, descriptions and general info.
An excellent resource. |
June 21, 2010, 12:01 PM | #11 |
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Keep looking for a mentor in your area ...ask around at the gun clubs and ranges ....and I'd be surprised if someone doesn't step up to give you a hand.
I've held mentoring sessions with at least 25 people in the last couple of years on shotshells and on metallic ( handgun ) ....just to give people the basics so they can decide if they want to get into reloading or not. |
June 22, 2010, 09:03 AM | #12 | |
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I've had a few people ask me about reloading, when they see the stacks of blue plastic boxes that are obviously not factory ammo boxes...
No offense, but this Quote:
There will be books involved which will have to be studied. There will be fussy adjustments. There might even be some math. :barf: Regardless of how you learn it (visually or by reading), reloading is an activity that requires considerable attention to detail. If you do a little self-assessment and decide you don't like the sound of this, you will probably be better off leaving it alone. Regarding your question on the recommended equipment lists, the reason for variation is probably because there is no "one right answer" to the problem of reloading metallic cartridges. Some examples - You can weigh powder with an inexpensive scale, but the scale might be a little tedious to use due to settling time and fussy little poises to move around. You can set up a sizing die without a cartridge headspace gauge, but they make things a lot easier (and potentially safer.) You can use a piece of stamped sheet metal as a case length gauge, but calipers are more versatile. Good luck. I hope you decide to get into reloading. It can be a rewarding hobby in itself and not just a means to make ammo. (One of these days, when I get time, I intend to find out if the last statement is true. )
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June 22, 2010, 09:12 AM | #13 |
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Check out this thread it has some good info. I have a post on there for what I use and it works well.
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=413799 |
June 22, 2010, 10:00 AM | #14 |
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I'm on the north end of Pueblo, and would be glad to show you the ropes on 30-06. PM if interested.
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June 22, 2010, 08:35 PM | #15 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
maggys drawers, pm on its way. |
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June 22, 2010, 11:28 PM | #16 |
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ndking1126
Please do not take this wrong. Everyone has been trying to tell you that you need to read the manuals. If they are too wordy, then the Executive Summary is - go to Walmart, Cabelas, Gander Mt and buy your ammo, then take your clubs, put them in the trunk and drive to the golf course. Jim |
June 24, 2010, 09:52 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
I promise not to take your post the wrong way as long you promise not to take my post the wrong way. Considering English is first and only language, I am quiet confident that I adequately explained my intent. I'm no where near educated enough to be loading my own ammo. Quite the contrary, I am very new to it and am trying to learn the basics so that I can make sure I don't miss the finer details when I get to that part of my learning. Short of using the exact phrase "I will read the manuals before I reload my own ammo" I feel I was as clear as I could have been. Best of luck to you. |
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June 24, 2010, 10:42 PM | #18 |
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where do you live?
some one might be able to come over and show you! ed |
June 24, 2010, 10:54 PM | #19 |
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I sort of had the same feeling as you. I read a lot, understood the concepts (or as many of them as you can without doing it) and always felt like I didn't quite know enough to get started.
After I joined TFL, I realized that I could figure it out and I had a place to go if I needed help. I really think that the best thing that you can do is to start buying equipment, get the manuals that you need, a jug of powder and start working. Take it slow at first, make sure you know what you're doing and why, and load up a few rounds at nice, safe starting loads with a nice, safe hard to screw up powder (which is basically one that has a large window between smallest and largest safe charges). If you have any questions or trouble, come back here and ask. There's always some insomniacs around to bail you out. BTW, I recommend a turret press with auto indexing. It's the best mix of reasonable production speed for handguns and precision for rifle that still keeps a newbie involved enough in the entire process to watch for mistakes.
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June 25, 2010, 08:03 AM | #20 |
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NDKING,
You might look around places that sell reloading supplies in your area, some of these might accually be holding reloading classes. There is one gun shop where I live that will give you an instruction/reloading manual along with some hands on training about reloading Pistol and Rifle amunition for around $60.00. You come in and load five different rounds of ammo and then you have to go to their range and shoot it. The show you the different press's, dies, and powders used in reloading. Pistol ammo is the least hard to reload and rifle the hardest. They both require attention to detail as mistakes can be costly and dangerous. |
June 25, 2010, 08:54 AM | #21 |
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Many of the reloading books, especially the likes of the ABC's have pictures to go along with the written directions. You really need to read the stickies at the top of this section (and at several other forums as well), to get a better understanding before you delve into it. You need to get an idea about what you do NOT know, in order to ask the questions you need to get answered.
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June 25, 2010, 11:07 PM | #22 | |
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Quote:
A 6 hr block that fits my schedule that falls when the range is open isn't always possible (my typical time for driving to, setting up, shooting, picking up, driving back and cleaning weapons). It's my understanding though that an hour or so (which isn't a problem most of the time) would be a long enough time to load enough ammo for my next trip to the range (maybe 30 rds?). Isn't the main advantage of the turret you can knock out a bunch of rounds in a short time? |
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June 25, 2010, 11:28 PM | #23 |
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A turret isn't just about speed. It's also about having all your dies, set-up and ready, all at the same time.
For example, the other day I loaded just 10 rounds... in two different cartridges 204Ruger and 7mm-08. I didn't need any die except the collet neck die and the bullet seating die for each, which are stored on their own turrets pre-set and ready to go. So, I put in the appropriate turret, with all dies already set and locked in place, left out the auto-indexing rod, neck sized and reprimed all the cases of 204, turned the turret to the bullet seater, added powder and seated the bullets. Pop out the turret, drop in the 7mm dies in their turret and crank out 5 rounds of 7mm. Total time was less than 15 minutes. I ended up not even using the 7mm rounds, but the 204 rounds shot a 7/8 inch group at 175 yards and I haven't even tweaked the charge yet. Personally, I wouldn't even consider a single stage or a progressive for what I do. The turret can produce 200 rounds an hour of handgun rounds and takes less than 30 seconds to switch to the rifle dies to produce sub-moa precision rounds. I can make two months supply of handgun rounds in an hour, or 5 precision rounds for a test run in 5 minutes and I never have to fiddle with die adjustments or keep a progressive running smoothly.
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June 26, 2010, 12:48 AM | #24 |
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the turret press is nice or you can look at the lock n load system that Hornady uses. I believe they have a bushing that adapts other single stage presses that allows you to use the lock n load system on the other presses. RCBS may also have this type adaper for their presses. I use this lock and load system on a Hornady Classic single stage press. I was looking at a turret press when the Hornady went on sale and I am one where price plus value drives my selection. My opinion, you can't go wrong with a single stage or turret press.
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