Pietta bolt on Colts

[51_60_colt]

I have two colts from pietta and both of the bolts have been too wide to fit right. They ping up the cyl. are they all like that icluding the service parts? Can I find replacements that fit right so I dont have to be a kitchen table gunsmith?

[Dingoboyx]

Do you mean the cylinder pin (the big fat threaded bolt the cylinder spins on) are too fat to let your cylinder spin freely on?

I have a Uberti colt dragoon (.44) and with a bit of grease and the wedge in correctly, it spins fine?

Have tou replaced the cylinder pins and the new ones are too fat, or have the guns always been like this?

[CHoffman]

Long time lurker first time poster. I have an 1851 Pietta and have ordered a replacement parts kit and both of my bolts are too wide also and have peened my cylinder to where I am going to replace them. Basically the only fix I am aware of is an article by Larsen Pettifogger (he may be on this site) which details the fix so all credit goes to him. I have the article downloaded and am sure it is around the net somewhere but I am not sure how to upload it so I will copy and paste a few passages detailing the fix. The article has some good photos which will help so if you can find it and download you will be all set. It is called Tuning the Pietta Part 1 and 2 and goes into great detail on more than just the bolt issue. Anyway here are some parts detailing the bolt fix. Again all credit goes to Larsen E. Pettifogger (SASS # 32933L).

If you reload, you probably already have a dial caliper. If not, they can be obtained from a variety of sources. If you do any gun work or reloading, it will be invaluable. Measure the cylinder notches on both ends and in the middle of each bolt notch. Remember, the bolt notches are offset so make sure the calipers are square to the notch. On our project revolver all the notches measured around .153” on the ends and .145” in the middle. Photos 4 and 5. As we had previously diagnosed, the bolt appeared too wide and was peening the bolt notches. Our bolt measures .157”. Photo 6.

So, our original diagnosis was correct, the bolt is clearly wider than the bolt notches. Just to double check your measurements, try to insert the bolt into the bolt notches. Remember, the notches are offset so the sides of the bolt must be kept parallel with the sides of the bolt notches. Photo 7. Check all of your notches and try the bolt in each notch. IF your cylinder bolt measurements are all greater than the width of the bolt and the bolt it goes into all the notches, then you can sit back and relax and skip the next operation. On our project revolver, the bolt would not go into any of the cylinder notches, especially since all of the notches were already showing signs of peening. Photo 8 shows a cylinder that was already ruined from peening and also shows the results of an attempt to square the notches with a Dremel.

The cylinders on our black powder revolver are soft. Thus, we can re-square the notches with a de-burring tool like that pictured in Part 1. Put the point of the tool in the bottom of the notch (on the same side as the burr) and make sure the side of the blade forms a 90 degree angle with the bottom of the notch and drag the blade along the notch. This may need to be done a couple of times, but the tool will cut the burr away and leave a nice clean square notch cut. Do this for all notches that have damage. On our project revolver, this was all six notches. Re-measure all of the notches; they
should now be fairly uniform. If the middle measurement on any notch is still markedly smaller than the ends, you may need to remove a little more material with the de-burring tool. Now determine the smallest notch. On our project revolver, all the notches were between .152” and .154”. In Part 1 we marked the bolt with a black Sharpie. Keeping the cut as square as possible, stone this area down until it is .002” or .003” thinner than your smallest notch. On our project revolver the bolt was cut from .157” to .150”. Photo
9.Put the hammer in the frame and then the bolt and bolt/trigger spring. (You don’t need to install the trigger.) Put on the back strap so you know the maximum the hammer can be cocked when the revolver is fully assembled.

And this is from part 1 where he explains where to mark the bolt where you will be removing material.

On our project gun, the bolt does not fit the cylinder correctly. Widening the bolt slots in the cylinder is beyond the capacity of most home gun tuners, so the only alternative is to narrow the bolt head. HOWEVER, we only want to narrow that part of the bolt sticking out above the bolt window in the frame. Photo 15. If we narrow the entire head of the bolt it will fit the cylinder notches, but it will fit too loosely in the frame window and the cylinder will have excessive side-to-side play. Just to make sure what area needs to be narrowed, take a Sharpie and color the side of the bolt as shown in photo 16. (Only color the side shown, we will not take material from the other side.)

The side shown in the photo would be the left side when holding the pistol with the muzzle pointing away from you. Anyway hope that helps some and if the mods or Mr. Pettifogger would like for me to remove this info due to copyrights or anything let me know and I will do so.

[Hawg]

I've only got one Pietta Colt and it's fine. I've got a Pietta 58 Remington and it's ok too. No problems of any kind with either one

[simonkenton]

Do you mean the cylinder pin (the big fat threaded bolt the cylinder spins on) are too fat to let your cylinder spin freely on?

I have a Uberti colt dragoon (.44) and with a bit of grease and the wedge in correctly, it spins fine?

The bolt is the little block of metal that sticks up from the receiver, and locks the cylinder in place. It doesn't look like a bolt, but that is what it is called.
I have shaved down a fat bolt with a belt sander.
Turn the sander upside down and set it on a table.
Use a small grit, 80 or 100.
Hold the bolt in the hand and touch it to the spinning belt for a second.
Try it, to see how it fits in the cylinder notch.

If your home gunsmithing is inadequate, parts can be ordered at VTIgunparts.com

[51_60_colt]

do ya'll think that replacment bolts from other sources fit better than factory pietta? Thanks for the responses and info!

[CaptainCrossman]

remove the cylinder and bolt from the gun- test fit the bolt into the cylinder notches- if the bolt is too wide, file the sides of the bolt, until it fits the slots- then reassemble and time it

if the bolt is coming out too soon and scratching the cylinder, that is a timing issue, and is adjusted by filing the finger on the bolt, where is rides on the trigger cam. On some bolts you can bend it to adjust, but if they are hardened well, you have to file or grind them, to adjust the timing.

[madcratebuilder]

if the bolt is too wide, file the sides of the bolt, until it fits the slots- then reassemble and time it

Do not file the sides of the bolt. You only fit the very top part of the bolt, the part that is above the frame. The bolt must be a tight fit in the frame window or you well have excessive cylinder movement.

Generally, replacement bolts are over size. They must be fit to the revolver. Read these two links about open top Colts, it should help.
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles...a_Part_One.pdf
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles...a_Part_Two.pdf

[mykeal]

Do not file the sides of the bolt. You only fit the very top part of the bolt, the part that is above the frame. The bolt must be a tight fit in the frame window or you well have excessive cylinder movement.

You are correct. Excellent advice.

[Noz]

I've done the entire Pettifogger conversion on my main match pistols. They work wonderfully. You'll find that when the bolt is properly fitted that the gun doesn't even sound the same as you cycle it. I think the bolts should be listed as "some gunsmithing required".

[51_60_colt]

Yea...deff. should be advertised as "Some smithing required!" haha Thank you all for your help, I'll go through the articles and give it a shot. If it doesnt work I gots me a back up plan, thanks ya'll!
Also gotta say that this is a great forum, I havent been here very long but its a great tool and I'm learning alot, great hobby, great people!

[olyinaz]

Thanks for the links and info fellas.

Regards,
Oly

[CaptainCrossman]

you may very well have to file the sides and top of the bolt, to get it to fit and time correctly- my Euroarms 1851, the bolt was not fully engaging into the cylinder notches, the bolt was too wide- that one I had to file both sides of bolt. On my 1858 Remington Navy Arms, the bolt was to tall/high and was not dropping down out of the way, jamming up the cylinder when the trigger was pulled back- and would not rotate the cylinder- that one I had to file the top down and make shorter. So I've had to file the sides and tops of bolts, to get them to work correctly- the main thing here is, take material off very slowly with a hand file- file it a few times, fit it, file it a little more, fit it.

[gmatov]

Cap'n,

I'd just advise you to change one word: jamming up the cylinder when the trigger was pulled back. I think you meant "the hammer was pulled back".

There is almost no part of any firearm that does not have to be fitted to that firearm, be it C&B or CF.

C&B, I think the mfgs purposely make some of the parts, such as the bolt, oversize so you CAN fit them. Wedges are almost standard. Springs ARE standard. Bolt and possibly hand are not to the thou. You may have to stone the hand to get your timing right. Some assembly required is appropriate for these thing, tho' when they come from the factory, they are generally shootable.

YMMV depending on maker and vendor. I have had no problems, even with replacement parts.

Cheers,

George