Browning BAR Cycling & Accuracy Problem Fixed

[Hayden Lee]

I’m writing this to hopefully help anyone who is having trouble with their BAR .

I have a 1970 Browning BAR in 30-06 that would not cycle more than two rounds and would not shoot less than a 5 inch group. I did extensive research, talked to friends that owned them, and did some trial and error to eventually end up with one of the best rifles I own.

When I first bought my BAR I could not get it to cycle more than two shots in a row. The cases would “stovepipe” after the first or second shot without fail. I disassembled the rifle with help from a YouTube video titled “Browning BAR Assembly & Disassembly” (link at bottom). I replaced the buffer pad, recoil spring, and ejector spring, still it did not cycle. I cleaned the gas system and lubed all of the associated parts other than the gas piston (to prevent sticking). I removed the carbon deposits from the gas port using a #55 drill bit rotated by hand, it was the only thing that worked. I used the same drill bit for the gas regulator, I’m not sure that it would work for all models as some of the regulator holes are smaller or larger. After all of that it still would not cycle.

I was about to give up when I stumbled across an article about the scope ring tightening knob hitting the shells and knocking them back into the breach, and the scope base screws protruding into the breach contacting the bolt. I ground down the scope ring knob and base screws until they were flush with the chamber. I went out and test fired the rifle and with a sense of accomplishment, the BAR functioned flawlessly. I shot a few groups to sight in the rifle and discovered it would only shoot 5+/- inch groups. I was so disappointed that I left the BAR in the back of my safe for almost a year.

Eventually I decided to resurrect my old rifle and see if anything could be done. I free floated the forearm stock (or as close as you can get with a BAR), and found out the forearm screw must be tightened to roughly 55lbs. I sanded down the forearm stock until about 1/8 of an inch separated the barrel from the stock. My torque wrench wouldn’t fit the forearm screw on the BAR so I went old school on my tactics. I tightened the screw until I thought it held the stock securely then shot a 3 round group. The group was about 5 inches. After that I tightened the screw about 1/8 of a turn and shot a 3 round group, 1/8 of a turn 3 round group, 1/8 of a turn 3 round group and so on until I got to a 1.25” group at 100 yards. I called it good at that, although I think I could have done better. Now it is one of my favorite rifles.

I hope this helps anyone out there, and that anyone with similar dilemmas can comment on this with their own experience.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afvhm_Gvhew

[Unclenick]

Welcome to the forum.

Interesting experience. I think if the sling swivel stud tension is causing that much difference, torquing it to factory spec is a good idea. You can get a crowfoot wrench for doing that with a standard torque wrench. They do change the torque value, though, so you start with a bolt you put on to a certain torque with a socket on the wrench, and then see how much higher the setting has to be to remove it with the crow's foot.

The other funny thing that can happen is that since the front stock hanger is in one place, it may not be the best place for the barrel time your particular load has. With the stock, you can intentionally wedge contact points in place along it to see if you pick up a better tuning point. This is an old idea for bolt rifles that is sometimes called O'Conner bedding. If the front stock is long enough to pick up a good spot, it may help. If you find such a spot, a little epoxy can make it permanent. It is just done by trial and error with some card stock. Paper matches used to be used. Wood wedges from popsicle sticks could be used. The main thing is not to mar the stock finish, so I like dense cardboard. The angle isn't critical. This just idealizes it for centering.

[Hayden Lee]

Whenever I take the rifle apart for another thorough cleaning I will have to give that a shot (pun intended).

[RC20]

Using puns is good.

I am not visualize a stud on a rifle that is big enough for a crowfoot, but if there is, if you can get the TW at 90 deg to the crows foot, then you don't have to adjust torque.

[4V50 Gary]

Well done Hayden Lee.

[Mobuck]

I worked on a BAR ONCE. It was during sight-in at elk camp when the owner found he brought a single shot semi-auto. I got it working(mostly) but the accuracy was so poor, the guy used up most of his ammo trying to get zeroed.
After that experience, I decided I wanted no more to do with ANY BAR. Even with all the derogatory comments and bad experiences others have had with Rem 742 rifles, IMHO that's a better hunting rifle than a BAR.

[old roper]

Hayden Lee, My wife used BAR 270 few years and it was early model. Never had problems with it, got it new. She gave it to nephew so still being use. I do remember that front swivel base as I was told keep my hands off it.

[603Country]

I had a BAR in 270 for quite a few years. It was very accurate with IMR4064 and 130 gr Noslers. The only problem I had was a scope mount screw sticking too far into the action and dragging on the bolt as it cycled, causing stovepipe jams. Took me forever to figure out the problem. Keep the gas system clean and there should be no problems. I sold it to my brother and transitioned to bolt action rifles when I started reloading and when the BAR ‘gained weight’ as I aged.

[JeepHammer]

I have the hardest time trying to get guys to use torque wrench on anything...
It's like they are oblivious to how a fastener works, and how that fastener can pre-load & bow the receiver.
I think optics installers (that masquerade as 'Gunsmiths') are the worst, followed by would-be bench shooters.

I have a pre-set torque wrench in the case with my accuracy rifles, there is simply no way around it since determining weight/force isn't something the human nervous system does well.
Look away, Try pushing down 25 pounds (or any other predetermined amount) on a scale, THEN look at the scale to see what you actually did and you will prove this to yourself.

When I'm setting up a custom rifle, I determine what torque is most accurate on action screws (particularly if the stock contacts the barrel) and order a present torque wrench and tool bit/socket for that particular rifle.

I can't tell you the number of times I've seen broken or stripped screws, screw heads gouged out, even stocks gouged because some 6 finger buster had at the firearm with what ever was laying around!

AFTER you determine (or use factory recommendation, which usually is close to 'Accurate) the best torque, then include one of these AND the proper socket/tool bit to your rifle kit...

http://www.seekonk.com/cat-39-1-27-0...e-wrenches.htm

For optics mounting, about every optics mounting company offers an adjustable torque screw driver handle type torque wrench. Many have tool bit sets included.

https://www.cabelas.com/product/Whee...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

I try to make these custom rifle box sets as idiot proof as possible,
Optics don't usually get dismounted often, so normally action torque wrench only with correct tool bit, and a no damage cleaning rod with chamber guide so they don't screw up the muzzle crown with an old military section cleaning rod...

I like the informal open long range shoots, lots of police and novices show up, donate to the purse, then break out the sectioned cleaning rod and go right down the muzzle! Money in the bank for the rest of us!

[Unclenick]

Man, I am with you on that. You see dinged scopes and screws and then folks that can't figure out how to get the reticle upright on the gun. The right tools make this stuff easy to do and get right.

Originally Posted by RC20

I am not visualize a stud on a rifle that is big enough for a crowfoot, but if there is, if you can get the TW at 90 deg to the crows foot, then you don't have to adjust torque.

You'll laugh, but I got a set of really cheap Chinese crowfoot wrenches about 20 years ago at Big Lots that get down to 3/16". But if he doesn't find anything small like that, he could pick up a combination wrench the right size and drive it from the far end with the torque wrench using a hex bit and adapter.

When you get an extension that is long, the 90° trick doesn't work so well. It's not an exact solution in the first place but is generally close enough when using a crowfoot unless the torque wrench handle is short. Torque is force per unit length outward from the axis of the drive, so there is only an exact match at both the square drive and the axis of the bolt (or nut) driven by the extension when the distance from both axes to the center of the applied force on the handle (the force point) is the same. A 90° angle makes the handle and extension form the square legs of a right triangle, and the distance from the force point to the center of the bolt (or nut) then is the hypotenuse of that triangle and multiplies the torque by the ratio of its length divided by the distance from the force point to the square drive on the torque wrench. With a 16" handle (force point about 14" from the square drive) and 1" offset to the crowfoot center, the error is like ¼%, so it is lost in the tolerance most people can hold operating the wrench. But when you get a long extension offset it grows. A 4" extension on that same wrench will apply torque about 4% high.

[old roper]

delete

[JeepHammer]

When someone complains about optics being 'JUNK!' (perfectly acceptable optics when mounted correctly) I go to the old standby...

I mount the barreled action between centers OF THE BORE and check to see if mounts/screw holes are centered on the bore...
This one is easy, simply hang the barrel between centers and use a stright edge between centers.

AR clones are the worst, 99% don't have optics mounts lined up with the bore.
Bolt rifles are often misaligned...

Once I know the barrel bore & mount are aligned, then I turn my attention to the rings.
Nothing like oval rings distorting the tube, binding the mechanicals, or rings misaligned bending the tube.

Then you check to see if the optic has the proper eye relief.
You usually have to teach the owner how to focus the optic, most focus changes also change eye relief.
Once you get focused, then get proper eye relief (that requires the owner shoulder the rifle in normal shooting position),
It's down to teaching the owner what a proper sight picture is.

Nothing like $1,000 optics in $20 rings, mounted cockeyed on the receiver without proper focus, eye relief or sight picture!
And it's the optics that are 'JUNK!'...

A screwdriver & hammer don't make you a gunsmith!

[gw44]

My bar has been a joy to own and shoot, very accurate !!!!