February 16, 2010, 01:46 PM | #1 |
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Nickel Finished Brass
I searched the forum threads looking for the answer to my question but couldn't find it so here goes. What are the pros and cons of nickel finished brass? Is it better then traditional brass? Harder maybe? Less trimming and provides more reloads per case? I’m looking to buy a hundred or more cases and want to make the right choice.
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February 16, 2010, 02:13 PM | #2 |
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The only advantage for me is that for carry ammo, it stays un-tarnished and will look better after being carried for long periods of time. Other wise, it's harder to work with in some ways, but not by enough to worry about if you like the look of nickel brass. I like to load the 210 WW Slivertips in my 44 Special and 44 Magnum with the nickel cases for carry, they look custom. Not shoot any better, but they sure look nice.
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February 16, 2010, 02:23 PM | #3 |
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My experience with nickel brass has been Federal and Magtech brass. I have some Federal brass in 9mm that is scarred up but still seems to function just fine. I have lots of CBC/Magtech brass for 357. It reloads just fine and I do like how it cleans up, but if you roll crimp or put a heavy crimp on a Lee factory die, you break up the plating at the case mouth and it will start to flake downward. Taper crimp on the 9mm does not do this, but that may also be the plating that Federal uses vs. Magtech.
Regardless of this, after four or five loadings I have found that some of it starts to break up and flake causing sticky ejection. I may be exacerbating it by tumbling them in walnut shells. I just throw the brass out when this happens. So far I haven't seen any cracking at the mouth on any that I've shot/reloaded, but I did buy some once fired brass with a handful of nickel plated R-P brass. Every one of those was cracked at the mouth, perhaps they were reloads gone bad. |
February 16, 2010, 02:23 PM | #4 |
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Some folks say that nickeled brass splits sooner, but I haven't personally noticed that. I have noticed that some brands will flake off bits of the plating when the cases get older, while other plated cases just wear away until you can see the brass under the nickel. It does clean-up easier. And, it is much better to carry nickeled brass if it is going to be in contact with leather or sweaty stuff, because that can corrode unplated brass pretty fast.
Some folks like to use nickel-plated brass to "match" their stainless steel guns. Some folks like to use unplated brass for the "traditional" look with blued guns, especially single action revolvers. But, I use both indesciminately, for range work, and don't really prefer one over the other. SL1 |
February 16, 2010, 02:24 PM | #5 |
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i have loaded with both for over six months now... I dont see a difference in life between the two...neither more nor less loads from one to the other... I do like the nickel myself...it doesnt tarnish as easily nor as bad
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February 16, 2010, 02:28 PM | #6 |
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From searching other forums, your reply is right on track with what I've seen. I'm looking for good brass that I can reload as many times as I can. It looks like the nickel finished brass doesn't hold up as well. It's going to be for my 7mm mag. so looks aren’t a big thing to me. Now, when I start to reload .45 for my XD, that’s another story.
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February 16, 2010, 02:31 PM | #7 |
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I have a 223 bolt action rifle in a 18" barrel.
The nickel brass allows me to load a little hotter. It is a one shot with the brass "then I discard the brass" The rifle shoot best with over max loads! I am getting 3200 FPS with a 55 grain out of a 223. Used a pressure gun too work up loads, and the barrel is custom. A little thicher in the breach area. running about 65,000 cup. Ed |
February 16, 2010, 02:51 PM | #8 |
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That’s a screamin' little round Ed. What’s the range? I wonder if I can get a 55gr for my 7mm mag? Probably would have to be a sabot. Like the old 30.06 Accelerators. But that would be cool.
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February 16, 2010, 04:43 PM | #9 |
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I have used nickel in my 357 with no problems. Bought some from Midway for my 280...no go...the shoulder was about .030 longer than spec. no amount of resizing would work. so I sent it back and now use "brass" brass!!
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February 16, 2010, 04:49 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
And I'm not talking just a split mouth, I'm talking a castastrophic crack right down the side. And while I never had a real problem with, I was always leary about chamfering the inside edge of the mouth. I never knew if this would start the nickel plating to peel. |
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February 16, 2010, 06:04 PM | #11 |
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I use nickel brass in my Springfield for the Vintage matches. It is slick as greased lightning in rapid fire and a lot easier to find in the grass.But you are correct it does not last as long as brass for reloads,at least not in 30-06. I have no experience in pistol ammo.
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February 16, 2010, 06:21 PM | #12 | |
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February 16, 2010, 07:55 PM | #13 |
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Speer 357 Sig Nicled brass does seem to have problems.
I have picked-up several pieces now that show a maze of cracks at some point in the shoulder area. Definitely not ones I would reload. But, I also have some that I fired in my own guns that I have reloaded once without problems and fired once more. But, I will definitely be keeping an eye on it, and am wondering if I want to use it for max loads. It seems like it may be too hard in the shoulder area.
On the other hand, I have some Speer Lawman non-plated brass in 357 Sig that seems unusually soft in the head area. When I fored the factroy loads, it expanded on the average about 0.0008" just forward of the extractor groove, where the case is solid except for the flash hole. For a cartridge making only 40,000 psi (compared to higher pressures in most rifle cartridges where I commonly measure less head expansion), that is really an indication of too-soft brass. SL1 |
February 16, 2010, 08:06 PM | #14 | |
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February 16, 2010, 08:52 PM | #15 |
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Cons
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February 16, 2010, 09:11 PM | #16 | |
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February 16, 2010, 09:33 PM | #17 |
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There are a couple of types of nickled brass. Some, like most of the "premium" factory type look like bright chrome, while some others, look more like a nickle "wash", and the nickle coating is very thin.
I used to use the later type when I was shooting HP/DCM shoots. It made identifying my brass a lot easier on the line when it came time to scrounge our brass. This type seemed to last as long as regular brass cases as far as reloading goes, and I would get about 8-10 loadings or so from them. One thing I did notice with them though, was the nickle seemed to almost wear off the more you reloaded them, and you could see brass though the finish if you looked close. As far as pistol brass goes, I load them until they fail, which isnt really all that often, but I never really keep track. When they do go its usually the case mouths, on both the brass and nickled cases. One big plus to the nickle cases is, if your keeping them in a leather belt, they dont get that green verdigris corrosion like the brass cases do. |
February 17, 2010, 10:57 PM | #18 |
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story time
I bought some used nickeled 357 cases for reloading.
I bought them in 1976; I'm still loading them. Nickeled cases don't last as long, but the finish aids chambering and extraction ease. And corrosion resistance is greatly increased.
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February 27, 2010, 06:09 PM | #19 |
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From my personal experience I have found that the nickle will overtime wear steel dies faster then brass, not a problem i use all carbide dies for my "high volume" calibers. I prefer the nickle as it's cleaner, tarnishes much less and seems to be much nice in general to work with.
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February 27, 2010, 09:03 PM | #20 |
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I haven't had an opportunity to reload with Nickeled casings yet, but I do prefer them over regular Brass casings for carry ammo (as long as the price isnt too high.) I like the high reflectivity of the casing for chamber checks. I think in a low light situation it's easier to see at a quick glance than simply brass. Anyone else?
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