cold bore shift

[44 AMP]

Can you spot the problems?

Shooting would be easier if you finished putting the rifle back together. first...

I think comparing hunting riles with match rifles is like comparing race cars with pickup trucks. Other than having certain major things in common (like 4 wheels, for example) they are made quite differently, for very different uses.

Lever guns with barrel band, guns with tube magazines, semi autos, and about everything with a barrel bedded in the stock will shift POI as they get hot. ANYTHING touching the barrel that doesn't heat and expand exactly the way the barrel does will have an effect on barrel harmonics as the barrel heats and expands. Guns made for match shooting, strings of fire, and not just a shot or three at game animals are made with features that minimize or eliminate the issue.

I expect hunting rifles to be just that, and accept the fact that they may only shoot well enough to do their job.

A 2MOA rifle will put venison in the freezer (provided you do your job right) but isn't the best choice for woodchucks or other small varmints. Doesn't win "smallest group from a bench" challenges, but does the job it was built to do, just fine.

I shoot "one hole groups" every time I shoot my single shot rifles or pistols.

What does group size tell you, anyway? How far off point of aim any shot can be expected to be, with no other factors taken into consideration.
Nice to know, but not everything one needs to know, or take into consideration, I think.

[stagpanther]

I think MarkCO has it--it makes sense to me that you really need to zero for just the first cold bore shot and then "predict" the follow up shots with warm barrel group testing in case your first shot doesn't get the job done when hunting.

Can't tell for sure. Is the bolt in the receiver?

Yes! bolt is missing too--you would have scored a trifecta if you had mention ejector spring was missing, but I'll give credit since that is kind of small. Accuracy can be severely degraded when there's no bolt.

[FrankenMauser]

If the bolt is missing, the ejector should be, too.

[stagpanther]

And the screw. I saw someplace someone makes a replacement lever screw with a burled head for tool-less field stripping--kinda like the idea (but can't remember where I saw that).

[FrankenMauser]

Ranger Point Precision, Beartooth Mercantile, and a few others.

They're generally large, gaudy, obnoxious, and aluminum. I'd rather keep a screwdriver on hand.

There used to be a guy making a large pan-head shoulder screw (about the diameter of a dime), meant to be removed with a coin. I might be able to handle that; but I haven't seen them on the market in quite some time.

[stagpanther]

Aluminum would be a non-starter--would grind itself up eventually in working the lever I would think.

[tangolima]

Screw + wing nut would make one. It looks home Depot ish though.

Nah. Just keep a multi-tool with you.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[MSD Mike]

I have found the only thing more frustrating than trying to shoot a 336 / lever gun off the bench is trying to shoot a Mini 14 off the bench. Standing, they are accurate enough to be fun.
Sorry, not much help, I know.

Mike

[stagpanther]

I have found the only thing more frustrating than trying to shoot a 336 / lever gun off the bench is trying to shoot a Mini 14 off the bench. Standing, they are accurate enough to be fun.
Sorry, not much help, I know.

More to the point than you might think--much of my experience agrees with that.