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#1 |
Member
Join Date: December 8, 2015
Posts: 86
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Smith & Wesson XVR light primer strike
Out shooting my new to me XVR 460 and I had a light primer strike that didn't go off. Second try on that round it went BOOM just like it should. Has only happened the once. Was shooting single action.
What do I need to do to make sure it doesn't happen again? Just a longer firing pin? TK Customs as good as any? |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 13, 2022
Posts: 251
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Seat the primer so that it is all the way bottomed out in the primer pocket.
There's a possible failure mode where a primer is not installed deep enough and the first strike seats it, the second strike ignites it. Last edited by Recycled bullet; June 18, 2023 at 11:57 PM. Reason: Typo. |
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#3 | |
Member
Join Date: December 8, 2015
Posts: 86
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 13, 2022
Posts: 251
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Factory defects are certainly possible. It's the reason I quit shooting factory 9mm ammunition back in 2015. I had Winchester white box accuracy problems and telescoping ammunition I'm glad I did not have a gun pop.
If you want to explore an intellectual exercise in quality controls get your calipers and start measuring the overall length out of a single box of hunting ammunition then disassemble the ammunition and look at the variations in powder charge mass. I'm making the assumption your gun is mechanically sound AKA you do not have a bent crane or excessive cylinder end play or deformed firing pin bushing, cylinder timing or bent/ mishaped bolt and notch or trash stuck around your firing pin. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 13, 2022
Posts: 251
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I shot a 5 in 460 Smith & Wesson 5 times and the fireballs were certainly glorious the muzzle blast was like an earthquake. I was smiling like I had something wrong with me
![]() What are you shooting through yours? |
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#6 | ||
Member
Join Date: December 8, 2015
Posts: 86
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Quote:
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All of my spent casings have nice deep indentations in the primer like they should have. haven't seen any shallow ones. Just chalk it up to a bad load then? |
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#7 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 12, 2002
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 5,244
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Quote:
Stand by for folk more knowledgeable about revolvers to step in and provide other opinions. P.S. The price of .460 S&W magnum rounds is a DEFINITE prod to start reloading. Good luck. |
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#8 |
Staff
Join Date: March 11, 2006
Location: Upper US
Posts: 28,087
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ONE "light strike" out of how many times you've shot the gun????
Something that only happens ONCE is most often the ammo, not the gun. Gun issues tend to repeat themselves, though not always in a consistent recognizable pattern, at first. Things to look for are, ... does it happen again? does it happen "every so often"?? does it happen with every round? Every chamber? or just with one chamber in the cylinder? Only with one brand/load of ammo? Things like that indicate a possible gun issue. ONE round of factory ammo, doing something out of the ordinary could just be a fluke. They do happen, here and there, still today.... Don't go wasting money (and possibly voiding a warranty) by throwing in aftermarket parts until you know, with certainty, that there IS a problem with the gun, and exactly what that problem is.
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All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better. |
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#9 | |
Member
Join Date: December 8, 2015
Posts: 86
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 22, 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 3,614
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Don't know that particular Smith....but.....most Smith revolvers have a mainspring strain (tension) screw imbedded in the front grip strap that must be kept tight. Backed out by 1/2 turn on my M67 will result in light strikes, but usually only in DA mode of fire. Shortening that screw with some file work, or backing it out in hopes of a lighter DA trigger is often the cause of light strikes. Best regards, Rod
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Cherish our flag, honor it, defend it in word and deed, or get the hell out. Our Bill of Rights has been paid for by heros in uniform and shall not be diluted by misguided governmental social experiments. We owe this to our children, anything less is cowardice. USAF FAC, 5th Spl Forces, Vietnam Vet '69-'73. Last edited by rodfac; June 20, 2023 at 06:24 PM. |
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#11 |
Staff
Join Date: March 11, 2006
Location: Upper US
Posts: 28,087
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Not sure about today, but in the old days gunsmiths loved it when "Self tuners" messed with the strain screw. They got a lot of business and often some credit for "fixing" the gun when often all that was needed was to proper adjust or at worst replace one screw.
Strain screws are set at the factory, and don't need to be messed with. In this case, we're talking about a SINGLE "light strike" with the round firing on the second hit. At this point there is no reason and no sense altering the gun in any way, in my opinion. IF and only if the gun develops a pattern of doing it does it need to be worked on.
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All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better. |
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: December 8, 2015
Posts: 86
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Finally got my order of brass that's been back ordered for several months and had a rainy day to get a couple batches loaded.
Shot way too many rounds for my checkbook this afternoon but think I may have found the problem. I get the light primer strike ever 1 in 20 to 30 rounds. When it does misfire, it's always in the same chamber. Once I noticed this, I got to looking at the cylinder and it has at least .003" of runout on the back. In other words, the cylinder gets closer and farther from the frame as I rotate it. The chamber that gets the light strike is the one that is furthest from the frame. I think I found the problem, but how do I correct it? New cylinder? Send it back to S&W? Aftermarket? The other thing I have noticed after marking the cylinder is that the brass is always stuck in one chamber. The ones on each side are a little "sticky", and the other two always fall out. Still happens when all the cylinders are squeaky clean. So what do I have? A cylinder of poor quality? |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: July 28, 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 11,729
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I think there is NO QUESTION that you need to contact S&W and have them fix this. I'd detail specifically what you're seeing and the skeptic in me would find some obscure place to mark that cylinder to see if the same cylinder is returned to you.
I'd be less than happy if S&W tried to make that cylinder work, I say you need a new one. My 460XVR 8-3/8" was built in late 2009 and has 696 shots through it. It's been a fine revolver. The first 80 rounds were Hornady 200gr and everything since that time has been my handloads, 240gr Hornady XTP-Mag over a full dose of W-296. It hangs very close to 2,000 fps at the muzzle.
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Attention Brass rats and other reloaders: I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss. |
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#14 | |
Staff
Join Date: March 11, 2006
Location: Upper US
Posts: 28,087
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Quote:
However it seems that the machining is sub par. This is ABSOLUTELY something the factory needs to know about, and fix. Call S&W and explain what you've got, work with them and go from there. Remember all problems like this are actually two problems, one is what is in your hands, and the other is in the factory, that let it happen, and let it go out the door that way. Nobody can fix a problem they don't know about. Two sticky chambers AND a .003 runout error at the back? You're going to ger a new cylinder. Possibly a couple other parts, too.... Good Luck, let us know how this gets resolved.
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All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better. |
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